|
|
Forums:
Climbing Information:
General:
Re: [dingus] Anything wrong with this newbs anchor?:
Edit Log
|
|
pfwein
Jun 23, 2009, 12:45 AM
Views: 1855
Registered: Feb 8, 2009
Posts: 353
|
dingus wrote: pfwein wrote: dingus wrote: Do let me know if you come up with one shred of PROOF that limiter knots provide benefit. Retro Thanks DMT Is a direct, on-point quite from a published book on climbing anchors PROOF, in your view? If so, I will get you said quote. If not, I won't waste my time. No it is not, sorry. A direct quote from a published STUDY, THAT WOULD BE PROOF. Do you know how the cordelette got it name and why it became so popular? DMT
But I'm sure you've got a better story!
Not that anyone should care very much, but my most common trad anchor is to equalize two pieces with a sliding-x on a shoulder length sling, (no limiter knots), attach to climbing rope with clove or figure-8, then attach rope to another piece with clove and get them somewhat statically equalized. Just pointing this out so any noobs who care understand this has all been a theoretical pissing match, which strangely seems to have really pissed some people off.
I've toyed with the idea of trying set up some "experiment" with weak accessory cord and body weight and a video camera, but I just don't have the skills/time to make it work, so we're all going to have to go with our intuition for the time being. I *think* I read some posts from rgold that questioned the "new school" assumption that extension is not that much of a problem, but I couldn't find that with a quick search, and I don't want to mischaracterize what he said.
(This post was edited by pfwein on Jun 23, 2009, 12:47 AM)
|
|
|
Edit Log:
|
|
Post edited by pfwein
() on Jun 23, 2009, 12:47 AM
|
|
|
|
|
|
