Forums: Climbing Information: The Lab: Re: [squish] The Anticam: Edit Log




mattmaddaloni


May 14, 2010, 10:37 PM

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Registered: Mar 25, 2004
Posts: 26

Re: [squish] The Anticam
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I might be wrong about this but I think the re-compressed force will be less with the bolt since there is less stretch in the system and the only stretch available is in the flexing of the arms.

Jeremy Frimer did his thesis on a Anticam like device not too long ago. His device had one large cam and a tooth. The tooth slipped between the flake and the wall. Three major issues were realized but over all his thesis was a success mind you not climbing ready. The one large cam caused the device to rotate until it popped off at about 800 lbs. The expansion range was very small and once loaded required a hammer to remove it. Even with a strong t-bar flange the device still flexed enough to 'bite' the rock in recompression.

Here is a photo of his device.



(This post was edited by mattmaddaloni on May 14, 2010, 10:40 PM)
Attachments: jeremy-device.jpg (96.3 KB)



Edit Log:
Post edited by mattmaddaloni () on May 14, 2010, 10:39 PM
Post edited by mattmaddaloni () on May 14, 2010, 10:40 PM


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