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Re: [bradley3297] The Anticam:
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mattmaddaloni
May 17, 2010, 6:35 AM
Views: 10471
Registered: Mar 25, 2004
Posts: 26
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Thanks everyone for the good energy, cheers.
I think the Guillotine Flake would be rated about 5.11+ if you could place cams but with the added time and energy it takes to place version 2 of the Anticam I'd say its harder. There are no foot holds of any kind on the vertical wall behind the flake. It is one huge burly undercling pitch for 60 feet. I had sent three 5.12+ cracks that week as I was training for it, so I know about where my power and endurance were at.
I was super pumped by the end of the pitch and I've never breathed so hard in my life. To place an Anticam I would hang on with one arm unclip an Anticam with the other and just get it on the flake before I'd have to grab on again with both to stop from falling off. Then I would switch hands and try to de-pump before reaching for the screw lock and tightening the Anticam up. Then quickly grab back on, switch hands, de-pump and then finally clip the rope in before I could continue. You can get a hand jam every now and then but it is such a weird angle with your palms up and you elbows down and it wouldn't help a whole lot...
I'd give it about 5.12a
(This post was edited by mattmaddaloni on May 17, 2010, 6:43 AM)
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Edit Log:
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Post edited by mattmaddaloni
() on May 17, 2010, 6:43 AM
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