Forums: Climbing Information: Accident and Incident Analysis: Re: [kostik] dangerous belayer: Edit Log




redlude97


Jun 22, 2010, 9:22 PM

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Registered: Aug 27, 2008
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Re: [kostik] dangerous belayer
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kostik wrote:
redlude97 wrote:

Look closely at the pictures. The mag is advocating to flip the cinch upside down and then using it horizontally, not the same as your case, notice how it causes the belay loop to twitch.

On Abb2 the Cinch is not flipped upside down. The picture on the left overemphasizes tilting the device to the left. The pic in the middle and in the circle shows that the cinch is tilted to the left, but not clipped to the biner upside down. This brings more friction into the system and gives the belayer more control over the rope. You can use the advantage of google translator to read the text.

Yes it is. In ABB2 it clearly is used upside down. Look at the loop created in the first picture. Notice how they are locking the cinch to the right side in the last pic, this would be physically impossible if the cinch is installed right side up, the device will rotate back to verticle in any fall. In their case it stays horizontal because of the torquing of the belay loop and carabiner.


(This post was edited by redlude97 on Jun 22, 2010, 9:24 PM)
Attachments: Cinchupsidedown.jpg (47.1 KB)



Edit Log:
Post edited by redlude97 () on Jun 22, 2010, 9:23 PM
Post edited by redlude97 () on Jun 22, 2010, 9:24 PM: Insert Picture
Post edited by redlude97 () on Jun 22, 2010, 9:24 PM


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