Forums: Climbing Information: General: Re: [reno] Rope ran through the belay device - Need Help!: Edit Log




socalclimber


Jul 2, 2010, 3:47 AM

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Registered: Nov 27, 2001
Posts: 2437

Re: [reno] Rope ran through the belay device - Need Help!
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reno wrote:
Skyline wrote:
Now I really wanted to be tied into the bottom of the rope, but couldn’t let go of my brake hand on the belay.

Without offering an opinion on the legal stuff, I re-read this, and wanted to comment:

You need to learn to tie a knot in the rope behind the belay device with one hand.

It's not difficult. It takes some practice, sure, but it can be done. I've done it wearing mittens.

Lastly, you mention this:

In reply to:
The problem was, now my attention was on him, up to my left and not on the rope.

That part right there is where you fucked up.

Don't do it again. You're the belayer... you should ALWAYS be paying attention to the rope. Where is it? How much is left? Do I need to stop lowering my leader and tie a knot?

You're the BELAYER, dude. You're entire world should consist of the rope.

I agree and disagree with you here.

You should be doing both. Of course always know where the ends of the rope are, but you also need to be paying attention to what is happening with the person on the sharp end as well.

What happens if you are paying total attention to the rope, and the person you are lowering knocks a loose block off? What if they don't have time to yell rock, or don't do it at all?

You have a problem. A big problem.


(This post was edited by socalclimber on Jul 2, 2010, 3:49 AM)



Edit Log:
Post edited by socalclimber () on Jul 2, 2010, 3:49 AM


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