Forums: Climbing Disciplines: Trad Climbing: Fall close to FF1, trust a Blue Alien?: Edit Log


Jul 8, 2010, 11:12 AM

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Registered: Aug 28, 2003
Posts: 670

Fall close to FF1, trust a Blue Alien?
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I'm currently working a route that's about 50 ft long.
The crux is 1/4 from the top, and the only gear is a perfect parallell-sided crack about 1/2-way up, that's JUST too small for my green Alien.

I figure, were I to take a fall, even with an attentive belayer, with some reasonable slack not to hinder my movements I would end up hanging just above the ground, with rope stretch and all. Making the fall factor at least close to 1.0.

Just above the crux is a good rest with good gear, so don't worry about cratering from the top.

What do you say, would you trust a blue Alien in this situation?(provided I can get my hands on one...)
Or do you have other suggestions?
The WC Zero in the corresponding size (#4) is only rated to 6 kN, as I can see, while the blue Alien is rated to 9.3 kN.

Edited to add rope info and some theory:
Beal Booster, Impact force 7.3 kN
A guesstimate is that a FF1 fall gives 70% (sqrt(2)) of a UIAA fall, hence 5.2 kN
Double that with the pulley effect of the biner = 10.4 kN hmmm...UnimpressedUnimpressed

The friction not making the pulley effect equal to 2, and that the fall is in reality some less that 1.0 might put the force below the rating of the Alien...

(This post was edited by cantbuymefriends on Jul 8, 2010, 11:34 AM)

Edit Log:
Post edited by cantbuymefriends () on Jul 8, 2010, 11:15 AM
Post edited by cantbuymefriends () on Jul 8, 2010, 11:34 AM

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