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Re: [redrattie] Do top heavy and top roping mix?:
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spikeddem
Nov 10, 2010, 6:16 PM
Views: 9021
Registered: Aug 27, 2007
Posts: 6319
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Hi, redrattie. Although this isn't always an issue, it sounds like you're climbing with your hips pretty square to the rock. In many--but certainly not all--cases it can be more efficient to climb with a hip turned into the wall.
This following scenario is simplified, but should offer a good starting point. If you're reaching with your right hand, try having your left hip into the wall (or right hand, right hip). Continuing with the left hand, left hip scenario, your left toes should be pointed to the right of the rock (the larger and lower the foot hold, the more doable this will be).
This rotation of the toes, hips continues up to the shoulders (although the degree of rotation gradually decreases as it finally reaches a minimum as it reaches your shoulders). Therefore, this technique may give you some more room to work with by putting your side into the rock. It's certainly not always applicable, but I figure you may find it useful.
I hope I don't just mess you more! 
Edit: Here's a picture to help. Notice both his feet pointing in the same direction
(This post was edited by spikeddem on Nov 10, 2010, 6:20 PM)
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Post edited by spikeddem
() on Nov 10, 2010, 6:20 PM
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