Forums: Climbing Disciplines: Big Wall and Aid Climbing: Re: [USnavy] Hauling: Dynamic vs static: Edit Log




socalclimber


Jan 3, 2011, 12:35 PM

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Registered: Nov 27, 2001
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Re: [USnavy] Hauling: Dynamic vs static
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USnavy wrote:
socalclimber wrote:
Jugging any line that is fixed to the anchors and has a "haul" device still attached is a really bad idea. Jugging any line that is already loaded with a haul bag hanging from it is a really bad idea. In other words, don't jug on a haul line where the bag is free and fully loading the haul line.

Than what is your preferred method for space hauling? I learned that you jug on the haul line but back up the haul device with a locking quickdraw and always remain tied into the dynamic lead rope so if the whole haul system goes to hell and fails, you are still tied into the dynamic line. I also learned not to tie the haul rope into anything, so if the haul device fails and the bags come crashing down, they hit the ground versus take a 100 footer onto your anchor with a static rope. Whats your opinion?

Well, here's the way I do it.

Somebody leads a pitch. Gets to the belay station, sets up the "team" anchor and yells off belay. Next the leader begins to assemble the haul system. Meanwhile the second is cleaning things up on their end and preparing to clean the pitch. One the leader has the haul system ready, he yells "ready to haul". The bag(s) get released from the anchor and the leader than starts hauling. Meanwhile the second is taking apart the anchor and begins jugging and cleaning the pitch on the lead line.

Lather, rinse, repeat.

As far as space hauling, I have never had enough baggage to require that. I do have a couple of friends who have done some significant FA's in Baffin Island and the Karakorum. I can ask them how they setup their systems. The one thing I do know about space hauling is that your are always tied into the belay so that if things run a foul, they at least don't go to the ground.


(This post was edited by socalclimber on Jan 3, 2011, 12:53 PM)



Edit Log:
Post edited by socalclimber () on Jan 3, 2011, 12:53 PM


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