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Re: [jbro_135] upper body workout for the lower body injured?? need help on weightlifting etc.:
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ceebo
Jan 12, 2011, 10:41 PM
Views: 5679
Registered: Nov 9, 2009
Posts: 862
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jbro_135 wrote: she mentioned hangboarding in the op, did you not read the whole thing?
Yes, but nobody suggested it as the option to take..
If you ask me its the only decent option anyway.
Anyway. As much as I've read, 30 min a day on the fingerboard (9 out of 10 climbers by Dave McLeod) is in his words a good amount to keep in shape (or even make gains perhaps). Obviously you listen to your own fingers and go as many days as you think you can without injury.
If you climb 3 days a week normally, i don't see why your fingers could not handle 4-5 sessions a week of 30 min, if not more. So long as you warm up and don't give yourself ridiculous hang times on holds your not strong enough to use.
Again in his words 3-8 seconds is the aim (or was it 4-8 ;p), If your any less its too hard, if any more its too easy. As for the amount of reps you do, i guess again that is depending on how you feel. But pace yourself so you can hopefully manage it almost everyday. I guess 30 min is just a rough time, if you don't feel up to it, then ofc don't do it for so long. You could try 15-20 min a day for the first 2 weeks or so, then build up slowly.
He also said its better on your elbows to do the dead hangs bent arm, although he was not so specific on how much. I personally suffered from bad elbows and i took his advice, but still not 100% clear if it works (he is very experienced though, so i wont even argue otherwise).
I also use weights every day, mostly to train the other muscles.. like reverse wrist curls and tri muscles. I do 15 reps maybe 2-4 sets. Since i do it every day i just keep the reps to a minimum, just enough to feel a slight burn in the muscles. You will have to mess around with the spacific weight yourself, but it wont be heavy.
Also, after every session i eat a big meal of paster and mix in all sorts of green's and a little bit meat like tuna or ham. Probably could have a better meal but its alot of carb and some protein. It's atleast enough to allow me to climb 5-6 sessions a week.
(This post was edited by ceebo on Jan 12, 2011, 11:06 PM)
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Post edited by ceebo
() on Jan 12, 2011, 11:01 PM
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Post edited by ceebo
() on Jan 12, 2011, 11:06 PM
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