Forums: Climbing Information: General: Re: [rainman0915] David Lama, Cerro Torre, and Horrible Ethics.: Edit Log

Partner j_ung

Jan 25, 2011, 1:00 AM

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Registered: Nov 21, 2003
Posts: 18690

Re: [rainman0915] David Lama, Cerro Torre, and Horrible Ethics.
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rainman0915 wrote:

David Lama in 2009/2010 attempted to free climb compressor route with a red bull sponsored expedition. they had to turn back after weather turned bad. while on the route they placed numerous bolts very close to established natural belays and left 700m of fixed lines as well as a lot of garbage. Lama now plans to return with another red bull expedition and rap bolt the headwall(the full story is in the link above).

WTF?! is this where climbing is headed? the gym climbing community thinks its ok to to use sport climbing ethics in an alpine setting? just because u can redpoint 5.14 doesn't mean u have the right to turn alpine peaks into sport crags. now of course sometimes bolts are necessary, but in these settings they should be hand drilled on lead while hanging on hooks or else whats to stop some gym rat who thinks hes hot shit because he just finished his project from rap bolting a new route up el cap?

Rant over. read the blog post i linked, it explains the situation much better than i do

Strange that this occurred without it ever making the rounds on the Interweb forums. Wink

Edit: I take it back. I just realized this is actually a new development. Teach me to post before reading! Ha!

(This post was edited by j_ung on Jan 25, 2011, 2:49 AM)

Edit Log:
Post edited by j_ung () on Jan 25, 2011, 2:49 AM

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