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Forums: Climbing Disciplines: Big Wall and Aid Climbing: Re: [camhead] Do you remain tied in when you are sleeping on a portaledge?*: Edit Log




USnavy


Mar 5, 2011, 7:46 PM

Views: 16778

Registered: Nov 6, 2007
Posts: 2667
Re: [camhead] Do you remain tied in when you are sleeping on a portaledge?*
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camhead wrote:
Ok, seriously, USN00b, you are plastering this site and supertopo with idiotic questions about ledges and wall climbing in general, so I'm going to humor you and answer this question (though I really haven't done that much wall climbing):

As has been said, always stay tied in. If you had spent any time on portaledges, you'd know that they're really not that stable, they shift, you could lose your balance and fall out. A lot of people, when they sleep, tie in with a swami loop around their waist like you said. I personally would just take off my leg loops and leave the waist of the harness on after I had gone to bed, for comfort's sake.
Camhead, I know that ledges aren’t stable I own one (or did, I got rid of it to upgrade to one I will buy soon). I know you should always remain tied in, that’s extremely obvious to me. I did not ask this question to gain insight on the proper way to wall climb. I asked to see how others do it, whether that be the proper or improper way. I often ask questions to see what others’ opinions are, I very rarely ask questions to take the answer I receive into the field and start using it, climbing instruction is best given in person by someone qualified, not over the net. So call the question idiotic but I have heard more than one aid climber say they don’t stay tied in while sleeping for a verity of reasons, hints the reason why I polled everyone. I am interested in why some don’t remain tied in.

You can take my other idiotic Supertopo post about secondary harsh weather gear for example. Once again, I know you should always bring a bivy sack and other supplies to supplement your rain fly. However not everyone does. I have personally seen an AMGA Rock Guide certified guide not bring a bivy sack on the Nose because they had a fly and waterproof tarp and thus and felt it was unnecessary. I have also seen AMGA certified guides haul on a Pro Traxion without being tied in to the dynamic rope and without backing the device up. So if I ask rc.com if they remain tied in while hauling does that mean I don’t know the proper answer? No. That should be obvious, you should always be tied in with the dynamic rope while hauling, but a number of people don’t and sometimes I am curious as to the reason why people take additional risks. Sometimes there is a legitimist reason that has been overlooked, other times not.


(This post was edited by USnavy on Mar 5, 2011, 7:55 PM)



Edit Log:
Post edited by USnavy () on Mar 5, 2011, 7:48 PM
Post edited by USnavy () on Mar 5, 2011, 7:49 PM
Post edited by USnavy () on Mar 5, 2011, 7:50 PM
Post edited by USnavy () on Mar 5, 2011, 7:51 PM
Post edited by USnavy () on Mar 5, 2011, 7:54 PM
Post edited by USnavy () on Mar 5, 2011, 7:55 PM


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