Forums: Climbing Disciplines: Trad Climbing: Re: [rescueman] Help Convert Me! : Edit Log




healyje


Jul 12, 2011, 8:57 AM

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Registered: Aug 22, 2004
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Re: [rescueman] Help Convert Me!
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rescueman wrote:
...and have led trad routes for 20 years without taking a leader fall.

I'm always a bit taken aback by statements like this...

rescueman wrote:
The goal of trad climbing is to NOT fall, so practice that discipline.

And to be honest I couldn't disagree more with this statement and absolutely would not counsel anyone to consider not falling a 'discipline'. It maybe a goal or 'discipline' in caving or in rescue - but certainly not in climbing, or at least not any concept of climbing I've ever held.

Now a beginner certainly shouldn't be pitching off routes and, in fact, you shouldn't be pushing it on gear until you are competent and have considerable experience under your belt. But never falling? I'd say that is where the "leader must not fall" tripe should have been rooted out and put down for good once nylon was invented.

I do agree with the "beautiful ascents" comment, but the 'goal' of [trad] climbing is to learn to evaluate, accept and manage risks, not avoid them.

You want to develop and hone your perception and management of risk, physical movement skills, and your technical protection skills as you develop. Keep at that and you'll arrive at a point where you can climb at your limit and sometimes beyond. You'll have successes, short and long falls, and even some epics - and that is what climbing is about, from my perspective anyway.


(This post was edited by healyje on Jul 12, 2011, 6:33 PM)



Edit Log:
Post edited by healyje () on Jul 12, 2011, 9:04 AM
Post edited by healyje () on Jul 12, 2011, 9:05 AM
Post edited by healyje () on Jul 12, 2011, 9:07 AM
Post edited by healyje () on Jul 12, 2011, 9:35 AM
Post edited by healyje () on Jul 12, 2011, 9:36 AM
Post edited by healyje () on Jul 12, 2011, 6:33 PM


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