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Forums: Climbing Information: General: Re: [Marylandclimber] Self belay : Edit Log




jacques


Nov 26, 2011, 4:53 AM

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Registered: May 14, 2008
Posts: 318
Re: [Marylandclimber] Self belay
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Marylandclimber wrote:
If you setup a top rope and just use one rope down, can you attach a Petzl ascender and move it up the rope as you climb? Also, can you do the same with the grigri when ALONE?
the answer is in the question: what happen if I fall. If the rope is in tension, the fall factor will be very low and a fall will generate a force of 200 or 300 pounds on the device and on the rope. With an ascender, it is not a problem. Personally, I use a shunt. The shunt don't have tooth and the sheath of the rope can not be cut. The problem with the shunt is that the biner can make and obstruction to stop the fall. I have to use a sling between my harness and the shunt. If I have slack in the rope and I am over my shunt with a sling, I can have a fall factor higher than 2.0 (if you understand the fall, you will understand this example). If I load an ascender with 2400 pounds, it will break and the sheat of my rope destroy. the grigri will hold, but it can not engage freehand. Rmsyll2 said that he use a ten pounds wieght to engage it in case of a fall. In that way, the rope is always in tension, he don't use a slink and his grigri is not freehand because of the weight.

So, determine your fall factor, have an estimation of the force generate on the rope (mountaineering freedom of the hill fifth edition), gave you a safety marge, choose a device, look to be sure that it will work in a fall.

I lead with a shunt and it's working. Two danger: the device can be stuck in the biner, so you have to use a sling, and, in a fall, you can push the trigger. You will fall to the end of the rope. Grigri came after.

Always better to climb with a friend. climbing could be solitary some time, even in a team, but climbing with a partner is always better. Before, we were so happy to find someone who can climb that we make some effort to stick with him and, after a while, a friendly relation can gave you the opportunity to climb safe in a large number of situation.


(This post was edited by jacques on Nov 26, 2011, 4:57 AM)



Edit Log:
Post edited by jacques () on Nov 26, 2011, 4:57 AM


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