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Forums:
Climbing Disciplines:
Trad Climbing:
Personal Anchor / Belay Off The Shelf?:
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billl7
Dec 6, 2011, 2:56 PM
Views: 15930
Registered: Oct 13, 2005
Posts: 1890
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Other than Option 1, consider latter options as including earlier options. For example, selecting Option 3 means you also are okay with Option 2 but not Option 4.
Some orientation to be clear about the question (but jump right to the question if the situation seems obvious based on the title and options - it probably is) ...
This concerns a belay anchor rigged together with a standard knotted cordelette.
There is the power point which is the multi-stranded loop that becomes isolated by tying the knot. Also, there are no other knots or hitches other than this main knot plus the one that joins the cord ends - usually a double fishermans.
And then there is the shelf which, for this thread, concerns the pairs of strands that extend between the biner at every piece and the knot. In other words, the shelf is on the "other side" of the knot with respect to the power point.
Clipping the shelf in this thread means clipping one strand of every pair of strands with a locker for the purpose of personal attachment. Hopefully this is the common understanding - not certain.
Assume that all belays are off the harness. Also assume this is a ~typical route where the anchor is vertically aligned with the last pitch below and the next pitch above.
The question: What is acceptable or not acceptable with regard to personal anchor attachment? Pros? Cons? What's the best practice?
Bill L
P.S. An option's existence does not mean I personally accept it.
Edit: the anchor includes at least two pieces of protection.
(This post was edited by billl7 on Dec 6, 2011, 3:05 PM)
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Edit Log:
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Post edited by billl7
() on Dec 6, 2011, 3:05 PM
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