Forums: Climbing Information: Technique & Training: Re: [granite_grrl] weight training for advanced climbing: Edit Log




noahfor


Feb 15, 2012, 1:30 AM

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Registered: Apr 16, 2006
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Re: [granite_grrl] weight training for advanced climbing
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granite_grrl wrote:
So it's winter and I have no climbing gym nearby. I am still getting out on the weekends ice climbing and drytooling, but haven't been climbing through the week.

One of my weakest link in my climbing has always been brute strength. Generally I've done pretty good despite this but especially now as I'm getting into 5.12 I'm finding more routes that just have stopper moves for me and these stopper moves are almost always because I'm not strong enough to pull them. So I decided to use my time after work going to the meathead gym and lifting weights in an attempt to get stronger.

I am doing a mix of power and endurnace (5-6 reps, long rest and 10+ reps, shorter rest) on things like one-arm lat pulldowns and rows, and then strictly higher reps (10+) on things like tricept and rotater cuff exercises. I would like to do some pullups as well, but I tend to max out at one or two and don't like such low reps when I'm already fatiguing my back muscles in the same workout. I'm looking to see where to buy some assistance bands to make this more reasonable, but until then I'm not doing these in my workouts.

So I was just hoping to get some feedback from anyone else that has done weight lifting to try to improve strength so they can climb harder. Suggestions on exercises, etc.

I'm not interested in the 5.10 climber telling me how awesome pullups have been for them and their climbing, or people telling me how amazing Crossfit is for this kind of thing. I'm hoping to hear from people who climb 5.12 and above on how they used specific weight training to help them climb harder, what they did and how it helped. Thanks.


If you're struggling to do 1-2 pull-ups, ditch the one-armed stuff, and just work on building general back strength, or strength in general.

Look into Pavel's "Grease the Groove" routine for pull-ups, and Pavel's "Power to the People" routine for general strength, or Rippetoe's "Starting Strength" routine.

For core strength, use low reps and high intensity. Work towards a standing ab-wheel rollout. Do weighted hanging leg raises.

Whether or not it will have any benefit on your climbing I have no idea, but those are my recommendations for building strength.


(This post was edited by noahfor on Feb 15, 2012, 1:32 AM)



Edit Log:
Post edited by noahfor () on Feb 15, 2012, 1:32 AM


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