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Re: [cracklover] Sick of kids:
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edge
Mar 30, 2012, 5:14 PM
Views: 3492
Registered: Apr 14, 2003
Posts: 9120
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cracklover wrote: shockabuku wrote: cracklover wrote: I started climbing when I was 28. I was a pretty natural climber, and it's in my blood, I just didn't happen to stumble into it until then. I'm aware of the fact that since I started so late I'll never reach the potential I might have if I'd started when I was younger. But I'm fine with that. And part of what makes me so okay about that is something that I think the OP is trying to voice. If I were a kid and I started now, and were pretty good at it, climbing would be all about gym climbing, comps, and numbers. That's not how I see climbing, and, personally, I'm very grateful I don't have that perspective. Perhaps the OP feels similarly, but, unlike me, projects his feelings onto the sport in general. I make no claims about what might be best for Akima, or anyone else. I admit, though, I do kinda wish the climbing world was not quite as it is. If I were to have a kid, and they had the natural talent and interest to be really good at climbing, I would feel like a shithead to keep them out of the circuit, where, no doubt, all their friends would be. Yeah, I could never do that. I guess I'd just have to subtly do my best to introduce the idea that climbing means more than that, also. Hmm... I dunno. GO So I have a kid who started climbing at 14. She joined a team, got really involved, started competing and did very well. We climbed all over the local couple of states where we lived (outside) and I even got her to go trad climbing with me at Eldo once. Then she finished high school, went to college in an area with, at best, a mediocre gym and very little sport climbing in the region. Now she's learning to trad climb and is captain of her school's climbing team. If they enjoy it, really, truly, all the rest will follow. If not, they were just dabbling, regardless of how successfully, and that's probably okay. Kids take time to grow into things. That's a nice story to hear. Still, in college and after college, your daughter may broaden her horizons, or maybe not. And is she typical, or more the exception? I think if I were a kid growing up these days and I were in the comp climbing circuit, I'd be all into it... until I burnt out. And then I'd be left with all the negative associations of however it ended. I'm not sure how I'd find the space to let in the rest of what climbing means. I mean, I did gymnastics when I was a kid. I could probably still press up from sitting into a handstand (though I'd pay for it later lol) - but gymnastics is in no way part of my life now. For most kids now, is that what climbing will become? GO
My daughter was always a climber, but I waited until she was 6 to rope her up and have her clean and follow all 11 or so pitches of Standard Route on Whitehorse for her first climb.
At age 11, frustrated with riding the pine for the town softball team, Meaghan and I made the decision to enroll her in the comp circuit where she quickly excelled. I have written about her beginning years climbing and competing in an article that appeared in Rock and Ice and on this site. http://www.rockclimbing.com/...ith_Meaghan_106.html This period of her life had a huge impact on her future life, and gave her a personal drive and identity that she carries to this very day.
Meg was never a wunderkind, although she did qualify for Nationals every year and placed as high as 6th a couple of times in her age group, and 5th in the Speed discipline, which neither of us counted as "real" climbing. She top roped her first 10 at age 9, and lead her first 11 at age 13. Certainly nothing special to outsiders, but it was important to her. It got her a couple of catalog gigs, where she was paid to fly out to J Tree and climb/model some free swag. When she was 15 she competed in the old ABS comps in the Womens Elite category, and made well over $1500 in cash and gear. Again, nothing special, but she was always the driving force and I was nothing more than the coach (when asked) and chauffeur.
During that time, I started and coached a team of about a dozen young climbers age 10 - 17, something I did for 8 years. My main focus was always on developing good technique and helping them help themselves to improve, trying to know when to motivate and when to back off. Of the core group from my team about half burned out, some because of heavy handed parental coaxing, and some from pushing themselves too hard. The other half, usually more laid back in personality, have adopted climbing as a life long pursuit. One is an outdoor education teacher, and the rest I see out at the crags having fun.
As for my daughter Meaghan, she competed and pushed herself hard for 7 years, then took some time off from the comp circuit during her four years in college. She still bouldered and occasionally climbed sport, but just socially and for fun.
Today she is a teacher of math, and for the last three years she has coached a team that she founded at her local gym in CT. She is also Regional Coordinator for USA Climbing's New England west division (shockabuku may know her from this?) and was co-Head Judge at last months Adult Nationals. She doesn't compete anymore, but still pulls down mid-range 11s off the couch. The key for her is that she found a happy balance of inner drive and enjoyment.
Of all the young guns who are now top US climbers, I have watched almost all of them grow up from my days in USA Climbing's Junior comps. For every one that I read about in the mags, however, there are at least as many who have dropped out completely, or ratcheted back much like Meaghan did. Some just climb now for fun, and some not at all. The empowerment of adulthood means that they can now make those decisions without worrying about "Little League" parents, coaches, or sponsorships, unless of course they want to..
To those young ones who excel despite having tiny reach, homework, and all other outside distractions, I applaud them for what they are right now, regardless of age. The same goes for one of my 28 year old partners who has only lead a couple of 5.9's. Personal accomplishments of any number are always exciting to watch and support.
(This post was edited by edge on Mar 30, 2012, 5:18 PM)
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Post edited by edge
() on Mar 30, 2012, 5:17 PM
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Post edited by edge
() on Mar 30, 2012, 5:18 PM
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