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Re: [losbill] Mini slab epics:
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gblauer
Moderator
Jun 29, 2012, 8:23 PM
Views: 13068
Registered: Oct 4, 2002
Posts: 2824
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Thanks Bill. I really miss him.
Exhaustion leads to an epic fail
I have been going non stop for weeks and weeks and weeks. Work, climbing, training, travel for work, the new house have all contributed to my current state of exhaustion. Every joint and muscle in my body is screaming at me.
We had a thunderstorm at 4AM this morning, by the time the alarm went off at 550, the roads, my deck etc were soaking wet. I called Seth and asked if he still wanted to go out at 630AM, he confirmed: "we can always top rope something".
We started on the Brat which was remarkably dry. Not totally dry, but, dry enough for Seth to agree to the lead. (I hate leading on wet rock. Most of my trad lead falls have been due to wet rock.) Seth hemmed and hawed at the crux and then at the moves above the crux; the rock was slimy and insecure. I could not blame him in the slightest. We top roped the other variations and decided to walk in to clmib Jim's Gem and all of those climbs on that face. We started with the Last will be First; a super pleasant 6 with nice movement. Very long climb to the GT ledge. It deposits you right at the base of Jim's Gem. Looking up, I was very tempted to lead P2. Looked big and blocky from the ledge. In hindsight I am glad that Seth took the lead. I am so exhausted, every move felt like a huge commitment. I just didn't feel like moving. Once through the crux, the climb eases way off and it's a romp to the top. We rapped and decided to do Modern Times.
I knew I was tired, but, I follow plenty of 10's when I am tired. I figured I would muscle through and finish up for the day. Well, I got to the start of the roof moves, was too tired to reach the jug and decided to let go. Woo hoo, what a HUGE swing into nothing. It's rather exciting! I looked up to make sure that the rock wasn't sawing at the rope. Satisfied that I was safe, I set up my prussiks and ascended the rope to the ledge. I am so glad that I practiced prussiking the other day. It was easy peasy and fun to do in a real situation where lowering is the only option. I was pretty quick, but I have to make some adjustments to my technique. My foot loop kept slipping under load. I constantly had to adjust the prussik to get it to bite.
it is UBER hot today and Seth's wife was back at the rental with the kids. SO...we called it a day.
I am seeking redemption...Anyone who needs a second on Modern Times, let me know. Otherwise I gues I will have to lead it.
I am exhausted and I am about to head out to my hammock in the back yard. Seth and I are climbing tomorrow at 6AM so that he can spend the afternoon with his wife and kids. I am going to forgo the fireworks at Bear Mountain tonight and turn in early so that I can climb a bit stronger than I climbed today.
Redemption awaits.
(This post was edited by gblauer on Jun 29, 2012, 8:24 PM)
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Edit Log:
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Post edited by gblauer
(Moderator) on Jun 29, 2012, 8:24 PM
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