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Forums: Climbing Information: General: Re: [stoneguy] Lead Solo...... again: Edit Log




moose_droppings


Jul 13, 2012, 1:04 AM

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Registered: Jun 7, 2005
Posts: 3371
Re: [stoneguy] Lead Solo...... again
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stoneguy wrote:
For TR Solo, ... I have NO question-Zero.

Lead Solo, on the other hand, is a different ballgame.

The question (if you would be so kind)... is . I have been tending to run 5-10 feet of rope out lately, before my first nut. I only climb where I can find a big rock or tree, to tie off then, drop my first Nut about 8-10 feet high, thus building in some rope stretch, should I fall. I drop-test this to ensure my head is at least 3 feet off the ground.

Is this wrong.? Or can you suggest a better scenario.

I plan to do much the same on multi-pitch, and run at least 5 feet above my intended belay anchor (if thats the right word) then drop back to build it. Thus avoiding large FF falls.

In part, the reasoning is that there is no approved gear, and so whatever is used is low KN. Thus I need to limit the KN/force carefully.

There seems to be no consensus on gear, and I use a Microcender (not approved as primary) with Butterfly back-ups. The MC will slip at 4Kn, but many feel the lead falls are unlikely to be over this.

Thoughts......?

Not sure I'm picking up what your laying down, but, how close you'll come to the ground depends on (1.) how high your first piece is and (2.) how far above that piece you fall from and (3.) the physical factors of your rope and (4.) your weight. Given those factors you can get a pretty close estimate as to how far you'll fall below your pro with rope stretch included.

The microcender is NOT a good device for lead roped soloing but is a great device for TR soloing.

As for as placing a piece above where you intend to self belay from, have at it.

Edited to clarify lead "roped" soloing.


(This post was edited by moose_droppings on Jul 13, 2012, 1:24 AM)



Edit Log:
Post edited by moose_droppings () on Jul 13, 2012, 1:05 AM
Post edited by moose_droppings () on Jul 13, 2012, 1:18 AM
Post edited by moose_droppings () on Jul 13, 2012, 1:21 AM
Post edited by moose_droppings () on Jul 13, 2012, 1:22 AM
Post edited by moose_droppings () on Jul 13, 2012, 1:24 AM


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