Forums: Climbing Information: The Lab: Re: [JimTitt] Do Screamers Work?: Edit Log




USnavy


Oct 8, 2013, 8:40 AM

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Re: [JimTitt] Do Screamers Work?
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JimTitt wrote:
From the technical commitee of the Italian alpine Club wh did extensive drop tests on screamers using various belay devices. My translation.

"It was confirmed that the examined device has an ability to absorb potential energy, that is 120-130kgm (1.18-1.23kJ), as was seen from of the data of the drop tests executed on the drop tower with a fixed rope and from the dynamometer tests carried out in the laboratory. It was also confirmed that actuation (that is the rupture of seams) occured consistently for all the dozen of tests carried out at a load of ca.2.2kN. But, of more interest to the climber, it was also confirmed that it was insufficiently useful in the aim of reducing the load on the last runner, as is seen clearly from the results of the dynamic tests. In all the testing conditions in fact, the presence of the shock-absorber has turned out practically negligeable in the sense that the reduction of the load on the runner was nearly always insignificant, and additionally, in high force situations (ca. 8kN) and with
moderate braking force from the belayer the loads on the top runner were increased.
In light of its insufficient ability to absorb energy one thinks therefore that such device can be of guaranteed usefullness only when the total energy in the system is relatively low, that is in the event of heights of fall of few meters (e.g. a fall from ca. 1m above the runner)."

For aid climbing there could be a rationale, for the rest the belayer does the job.


Do you have the original study? I would like to see it.

On a side note, Yates claims that screamers have a very profound effect on limiting the impact force of the top piece.

http://www.yatesgear.com/climbing/screamer/use.htm

Also, Black Diamond found that screamers are effective in its testing.

http://blackdiamondequipment.com/en/qc-lab-to-screamer-or-not-to-screamer.htmlhttp://blackdiamondequipment.com/en/qc-lab-to-screamer-or-not-to-screamer.html

It is interesting that this subject came up because screamer testing is on my list of topics to explore, among other things.

One thing for sure, energy-absorbing slings like screamers absolutely limit the impact force when used in situations where no other dynamic elements are present. For example, large "screamers" are extremely common in via ferrata lanyards and commercial rigging equipment, such as the lanyard that is designed to be connected to the Petzl ASAP. In those applications, falling without a specialized energy absorber could prove potentially lethal, or at the minimal, quite damaging, even if the user substituted the lanyard for dynamic rope.

However, via ferrata "screamers" seem to have a much higher initial trigger impact force requirement and far greater energy absorption capability than traditional screamers. I have fallen on a via ferrata lanyard and it was quite rough--very far from a soft catch for sure.

Last, some more info: http://www.mountainproject.com/v/do-screamers-work/105947850


(This post was edited by USnavy on Oct 8, 2013, 8:59 AM)



Edit Log:
Post edited by USnavy () on Oct 8, 2013, 8:41 AM
Post edited by USnavy () on Oct 8, 2013, 8:42 AM
Post edited by USnavy () on Oct 8, 2013, 8:44 AM
Post edited by USnavy () on Oct 8, 2013, 8:44 AM
Post edited by USnavy () on Oct 8, 2013, 8:49 AM
Post edited by USnavy () on Oct 8, 2013, 8:51 AM
Post edited by USnavy () on Oct 8, 2013, 8:54 AM
Post edited by USnavy () on Oct 8, 2013, 8:59 AM


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