Must...Climb....Hard...Scary...Route...That looks like such an awesome climb. Too bad 11c is the hardest thing I've redpointed. Guess I'll have to get a bit stronger before I check that puppy out.

Eeeek, that's like right at the edge of my comfort level onsight wise. Most of the time I do...but sometimes I don't. Not necessarily that style though. Might have to make a trip out there next fall. See how I feel with the area and style of climbing. Have to get on some of Bachar's routes and see if he was a sandbagger!

I can't help but get all psyched watching those sort of videos with the hard scary climbing.

Are you seriously suggesting that you're anywhere near capable of leading the Bachar–Yerian?

Jay

I think with a week of training he's got that thing in the bag.

Near capable, yes. Ready, hell no. I'm fine leading scary things at my limit in styles that I'm good at like crack climbs (which don't generally have runouts) and technical routes. Bachar-Yerian sounds like it might be one of those but I haven't checked out much info on the route. Sorry when I said I was psyched watching videos like that I didn't mean to suggest that I was going to pump myself up to go and do it next week.

I'd definately want to spend some time in the area familiarizing myself with the climbing style and some of Bachar's other routes to see how he graded things and how well I climbed in the given style. It definately doesn't look or sound like the sort of climb I'd just go walk up and jump on because it has the same grade as some other climbs I've onsighted.

It's too bad your mother didn't smother you when you were a child, then the rest of us wouldn't have to deal with your personality.

And in your case, your ego and hubris.
How can anyone who calls themselves a climber (and spills their guts on GumbyBurns blog) "...not know much about..." the Bachar-Yerian? Seriously? That's like saying "The Nose? Yeah, I think I heard of that once."

No, I'd heard of the Bachar-Yerian, and knew where it was before I ever saw that video. It's like saying I know what The Nose is but I don't know the grade or style of climbing on every pitch. If I was planning on going to do it I'd get a topo and start checking it out.

Sorry to get everyone's panties in a bunch. Apparently the line between self confidence and ego/hubris is a thin one.

Self confidence is good, but the posts mostly demonstrate ignorance of the route. Which is ok, you don't have to know everything about every route, but it's just funny to those familiar with it because of the history, style and notoriety of tuolumnes most famous sport route. Thanks for the laughs.

Given the change in equipment, training methods, and what people are doing these days, it's not too far fetched to think that regular people can ascend to that level of ability. Physically or mentally. Your video post so much as makes that point.

Given that you know little about how well I climb . . .

What I said was that, given what I know about the route, it's right at the cusp of my climbing ability.

I also admitted I don't know much about the route except it's location and the grade and that I would want to climb in the area for a while before deciding to check it out. That doesn't seem like hubris, that seems like being cautious and working up to it. I don't see the part where I said I could totally go out their and crush it no problem.

Obviously it's a serious route but it's really unfortunate when other climbers take such a negative attitude towards the aspirations of others...

How sad is your life if you have to take a dump on the lives of others?

First of all, I've watched Andrew Rock climb....
That said, of course "regular people" ...

I know quite a lot about how well you climb. ...

Which speaks to either your ignorance of the route or your ignorance of your climbing ability, or, in all likelihood, both.

That would be a reasonable thing to (finally) say were it not for the fact that the route is simply out of your league—which is not to say that some day you might be able to do it.

Straw man. Nobody is dumping...

Nobody is "dumping on the lives of others," whatever ...

I don't need to see you climb to tell you that just from what I've read in this thread, you are nowhere near capable of leading this route.

Although I don't think anyone who has posted in this thread is either.

What'd he do to train for it?

Yeah, I got that in the video when he pretty much cruised the route. Wasn't enough to bring him up and say he was a really good climber. Had to knock someone (me in this case) down a peg.

I'm gonna guess your job either involves little interaction with people or enough interaction that it pisses you off and you take it out on others. That or you don't realise your backhanded comments make you sound like an ass.

Ergo, people are making fun of you for having a casual attitude about one of the scariest climbs in California America.

...Since you are claiming to be a better climber than you are, any statement about the claim being false necessarily implies that you're not as good a climber as you think you are. If that offends you it is your own fault for having a grossly inflated opinion of your climbing ability.


This is the second blatant, false, and desperate ad hominem attack you've made against me in this thread.

Jay

This ain't debate team buddy. There's no winning here. If you actually read what I wrote I said 5.11a was at the edge of my comfort level for onsighting and that it'd be cool to check the route out (ie look at it). This was in response to someone saying that J.B. himself said it wasn't harder than 5.11a. When you asked if I seriously thought I was capable of leading it I said I might be near capable but definately not ready. That was a no in case you didn't catch it. Reading comprehension can be tricky.

You and all the other people who can't read decided you had to jump in and tell me how dumb I was for even thinking I had so much as a chance of leading it.

Then I used the word "cusp" which you seem very focused on for some reason while in the same sentence I also said, "given what I know about the route".

Is the route so far out of my league to make it silly to think about it in the next few years. Eh, maybe.

Climbing tends to self correct those who reach too far beyond what they should.

I know my abilities very well and regardless of whether I mispoke about being "near capable" of climbing it I'd know as soon as I looked at it in person how close or far it was from my abilities.

I don't need some egotistical sport climber who flails his way up 5.12 to tell me what I can and can't do. Get a life.

Adjusted that for ya!

Having not climbed the route it's not yet a fact that I can't climb it. While it's highly likely that I can't, it is not yet a fact. Though I never said I could.

I don't need to see you climb to tell you that just from what I've read in this thread, you are nowhere near capable of leading this route.

Although I don't think anyone who has posted in this thread is either.

I for one think he can do it.

Jeremiah, don't listen to these guys, you can do anything you set your mind to. It'd be sweet if you didn't do a bunch of specialized training and beta research either, go old school with it. Just be sure to line up a cameraman because these guys will never take your word for it. That and the rest of us would definitely like to see the footage.

Get on that shit!

Not to disparage your post, as I can certainly sympathize with your sentiments, but I've tried my damnedest not to make the "you're right; go for it" post. After all, it's an R/X route that is orders of magnitude beyond this n00b's ability. However, I have to admit that the more he piles on the incessant ad hominem attacks the harder it is for me to resist making the "go for it" post. As awful as it is to admit, there might just be a level of abuse beyond which I'm willing to suggest that someone do something that could cost them life or limb that, out of there own ignorance and arrogance, they believe they are competent to do.

Jay

Once again, there's a difference between a belief and reality. Just because I believe it is something I could do in the future doesn't mean I'd just go out there and do it without trying some of the other testpieces that probably come in line before it. What is it that makes you think you're so much better than everyone else?

Pretty sure the entire basis of your argument that I can't do it is just because you think I'm a noob, an ad hominem attack in itself. Maybe you should read my post above.

According to Jan (Andrew's second), Andrew spent nine months of dedicated training to lead the Bachar–Yerian. I'm going to go out on a limb and say that if I spent a full year of training dedicated to leading just that route that I could do it. You too, maybe in less time.

Jay

It's less about the whole miscommunication thing and more about people telling others what they can and can't climb.

For someone, anyone, to talk down to other climbers just gets under my skin. It's one thing to caution someone and suggest they look into something like that a little more carefully. It's entirely different to basically berate them about how they have no idea what they're talking about.

I don't believe to just be an annoyance, I think it's detrimental to the sport as a whole to have that elitist crap floating around. Not to say I'm without guilt but I don't make a habit of it.

It's elitist for someone to say they might be close to being able to climb something? Well that pretty much encompasses everyone on this sight. Guess we're all guilty.

It's less about the whole miscommunication thing and more about people telling others what they can and can't climb.

For someone, anyone, to talk down to other climbers just gets under my skin. It's one thing to caution someone and suggest they look into something like that a little more carefully. It's entirely different to basically berate them about how they have no idea what they're talking about.

I don't believe it to just be an annoyance, I think it's detrimental to the sport as a whole to have that elitist crap floating around. Not to say I'm without guilt but I don't make a habit of it.

Near capable, yes. . . . I'm fine leading scary things at my limit in styles that I'm good at like crack climbs (which don't generally have runouts) and technical routes. Bachar-Yerian sounds like it might be one of those but I haven't checked out much info on the route.

Drama queen.

I think I might have somehow given the impression that the things on this website affect me. Most of my responding simply has to do with the fact that I'm bored on the computer already. The weather sucks today and I'm tired from climbing the past two so this is just entertainment. Like I said before, with climbing you have to put up or shut up, which can't take place on the internet.

You are right though, I don't have a clue about how hard the B/Y is. With no personal knowledge of the route all one has to go on is videos, pictures, and written info. None of which make it look or sound like a super-mega-death route. If people want to chip in to buy me a plane ticket so I can go view the route in person and realize, holy shit that's way harder and sketchier then it looked from pictures I'd totally take them up on it.

But given what I've read about the route having a V4 crux and sustained 11a and 10d climbing with 30-40 foot runouts on vertical and slightly overhanging rock. It doesn't sound that far out of my league. Obviously there's a differnce between how a route sounds and how it actually is. With grade differences in different areas, different types of climbing, different strengths and weaknesses, and all the other variables that make up the difficulty of a route and the ability of individual climbers it's pretty difficult to say whether or not any climber can do anything over the internet, it's just conjecture and babbling. Especially without watching them climb or doing some of the climbs they've done.

If a climbing partner who'd climbed it told me it was way out of my league I would take that advice to heart. When some random person on the internet says I'm so arrogant for thinking I'm anywhere near that ability it sounds a hair elitist.

Something more interesting came along, going ice climbing.

I think I might have somehow given the impression that the things on this website affect me. Most of my responding simply has to do with the fact that I'm bored on the computer already. The weather sucks today and I'm tired from climbing the past two so this is just entertainment. Like I said before, with climbing you have to put up or shut up, which can't take place on the internet.

Slim chance I could, likely I can't.

And, let's remember that Wolfgang Gullich, the strongest climber of the era, and the guy who established the 5.14 rating, fell on this route. This is the company you are putting yourself in by claiming that you are even remotely qualified to lead this route.

Once again, there's a difference between a belief and reality.

I think I might have somehow given the impression that the things on this website affect me.

...Apparently the line between self confidence and ego/hubris is a thin one.

You are right though, I don't have a clue about how hard the B/Y is. With no personal knowledge of the route all one has to go on is videos, pictures, and written info. None of which make it look or sound like a super-mega-death route. If people want to chip in to buy me a plane ticket so I can go view the route in person and realize, holy shit that's way harder and sketchier then it looked from pictures I'd totally take them up on it.

But given what I've read about the route having a V4 crux and sustained 11a and 10d climbing with 30-40 foot runouts on vertical and slightly overhanging rock. It doesn't sound that far out of my league.

Obviously there's a differnce between how a route sounds and how it actually is. With grade differences in different areas, different types of climbing, different strengths and weaknesses, and all the other variables that make up the difficulty of a route and the ability of individual climbers it's pretty difficult to say whether or not any climber can do anything over the internet, it's just conjecture and babbling. Especially without watching them climb or doing some of the climbs they've done.

If a climbing partner who'd climbed it told me it was way out of my league I would take that advice to heart. When some random person on the internet says I'm so arrogant for thinking I'm anywhere near that ability it sounds a hair elitist.

http://www.blackdiamondequipment.com/...famed-ibacharyeriani

scoll down a little for vid.

I'm not lumping myself in with anyone. In fact I avoid lumping myself in with anyone because every climb is different as is every climber. I never said I was going to go redpoint the B/Y or try to. Maybe read the thread more carefully.

Slim chance I could, likely I can't. I'm not going to say "no effing way" without looking at it. I'm not going to tersely discourage someone else from thinking about it even if I know for a fact that I'm loads stronger than them and I'm not thinking of doing it. I definately would not do so if I had never seen them climb or been on the climb they were referring to.

Hey man forget these pussies, I'll come rope up with you. We got this shit.

we're talking tuolemene meadows, not Jersey Shore.

You disrespecting my family? Come at me bro.

Must be a Jersey thing.

So far, your unconcern in this thread totals 3,109 words.

Jay

Nerd

It probably won't help my case to disclose that I used a Linux word count utility to come up with that.

Jay

It's too bad your mother didn't smother you when you were a child, then the rest of us wouldn't have to deal with your personality.