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dreday3000
Nov 22, 2010, 5:21 PM
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The crux actually look well protected to me. I realize that climbing something like BY is more about keeping your head together than a technical cruxes but on the whole I thought the video was pretty encouraging for someone that wants to take a stab at it. The trick of course, is separating the wheat from chaff.
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redlude97
Nov 22, 2010, 5:24 PM
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jmeizis wrote: It's elitist for someone to say they might be close to being able to climb something? Well that pretty much encompasses everyone on this sight. Guess we're all guilty. No. This isn't a route you do because you think you can pull v4 and 5.11 moves. You don't redpoint the B-Y. By claiming such tha you are lumping yourself with a group of very elite climbers and putting yourself above many climbers who pull much harder than you and have the humility to look at the B-Y, know the implications of not sending and saying "no effing way"
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jmeizis
Nov 22, 2010, 5:34 PM
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I'm not lumping myself in with anyone. In fact I avoid lumping myself in with anyone because every climb is different as is every climber. I never said I was going to go redpoint the B/Y or try to. Maybe read the thread more carefully. Slim chance I could, likely I can't. I'm not going to say "no effing way" without looking at it. I'm not going to tersely discourage someone else from thinking about it even if I know for a fact that I'm loads stronger than them and I'm not thinking of doing it. I definately would not do so if I had never seen them climb or been on the climb they were referring to.
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spikeddem
Nov 22, 2010, 5:40 PM
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jmeizis wrote: It's less about the whole miscommunication thing and more about people telling others what they can and can't climb. For someone, anyone, to talk down to other climbers just gets under my skin. It's one thing to caution someone and suggest they look into something like that a little more carefully. It's entirely different to basically berate them about how they have no idea what they're talking about. I don't believe it to just be an annoyance, I think it's detrimental to the sport as a whole to have that elitist crap floating around. Not to say I'm without guilt but I don't make a habit of it. Drama queen. Honestly, I agree with them. I'd agree with your berating comment, but it really seems like you don't know what you're talking about when it comes to B-Y. It seems like you looked at the grade, watched a video of it, and made a bunch of assumptions. An average sport climb established in the last decade may be taken at face value from it's grade, but this is just simply a totally different monster. If you'd described it as some kind of long-term goal, you probably would have received a positive response. Let the haters hate. Let's say you changed their opinion. So what? For every hater on this site, there's ten times as many out there. People just not need to be fragile and easily affected by them.
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spikeddem
Nov 22, 2010, 5:53 PM
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In reply to: Near capable, yes. . . . I'm fine leading scary things at my limit in styles that I'm good at like crack climbs (which don't generally have runouts) and technical routes. Bachar-Yerian sounds like it might be one of those but I haven't checked out much info on the route. Fact: You claimed to be "[nearly] capable" of climbing an infamous route based upon a video and a grade. Seems to me everyone was responding to this, which is not an expression of your aspirations, but rather of your current capabilities. You immediately followed the claim by saying that you "haven't check out much info on the route." I mean, honestly? You shouldn't make a statement about how you're nearly capable of doing something and then immediately follow that up by saying you don't know much about that thing. The thing is, now you're on this strawman argument, trying to make the others look bad by saying they're hating on climbers' aspirations. This is NOT what they did.
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jmeizis
Nov 22, 2010, 6:30 PM
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spikeddem wrote: Drama queen. I think I might have somehow given the impression that the things on this website affect me. Most of my responding simply has to do with the fact that I'm bored on the computer already. The weather sucks today and I'm tired from climbing the past two so this is just entertainment. Like I said before, with climbing you have to put up or shut up, which can't take place on the internet. You are right though, I don't have a clue about how hard the B/Y is. With no personal knowledge of the route all one has to go on is videos, pictures, and written info. None of which make it look or sound like a super-mega-death route. If people want to chip in to buy me a plane ticket so I can go view the route in person and realize, holy shit that's way harder and sketchier then it looked from pictures I'd totally take them up on it. But given what I've read about the route having a V4 crux and sustained 11a and 10d climbing with 30-40 foot runouts on vertical and slightly overhanging rock. It doesn't sound that far out of my league. Obviously there's a differnce between how a route sounds and how it actually is. With grade differences in different areas, different types of climbing, different strengths and weaknesses, and all the other variables that make up the difficulty of a route and the ability of individual climbers it's pretty difficult to say whether or not any climber can do anything over the internet, it's just conjecture and babbling. Especially without watching them climb or doing some of the climbs they've done. If a climbing partner who'd climbed it told me it was way out of my league I would take that advice to heart. When some random person on the internet says I'm so arrogant for thinking I'm anywhere near that ability it sounds a hair elitist. Something more interesting came along, going ice climbing.
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redlude97
Nov 22, 2010, 6:33 PM
Post #57 of 79
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jmeizis wrote: spikeddem wrote: Drama queen. I think I might have somehow given the impression that the things on this website affect me. Most of my responding simply has to do with the fact that I'm bored on the computer already. The weather sucks today and I'm tired from climbing the past two so this is just entertainment. Like I said before, with climbing you have to put up or shut up, which can't take place on the internet. You are right though, I don't have a clue about how hard the B/Y is. With no personal knowledge of the route all one has to go on is videos, pictures, and written info. None of which make it look or sound like a super-mega-death route. If people want to chip in to buy me a plane ticket so I can go view the route in person and realize, holy shit that's way harder and sketchier then it looked from pictures I'd totally take them up on it. But given what I've read about the route having a V4 crux and sustained 11a and 10d climbing with 30-40 foot runouts on vertical and slightly overhanging rock. It doesn't sound that far out of my league. Obviously there's a differnce between how a route sounds and how it actually is. With grade differences in different areas, different types of climbing, different strengths and weaknesses, and all the other variables that make up the difficulty of a route and the ability of individual climbers it's pretty difficult to say whether or not any climber can do anything over the internet, it's just conjecture and babbling. Especially without watching them climb or doing some of the climbs they've done. If a climbing partner who'd climbed it told me it was way out of my league I would take that advice to heart. When some random person on the internet says I'm so arrogant for thinking I'm anywhere near that ability it sounds a hair elitist. Something more interesting came along, going ice climbing. Those that have to state 5 times in a thread that they don't care what others think yet continue to bring that point up are the ones who are most butthurt. Fact.
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spikeddem
Nov 22, 2010, 6:36 PM
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jmeizis - You mentioned feeling comfortable on scary non-runout crack climbs. Could you mention the name of some of these?
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jt512
Nov 22, 2010, 6:51 PM
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jmeizis wrote: Slim chance I could, likely I can't. The back pedaling is certainly entertaining. It's gone from "on the cusp" to this. When I get a moment I'm going to run your posts through the word count program I've got on my computer. I'm curious about how much effort you've expended defending yourself instead of just having admitted that you were wrong in the first place about your ability to climb the B–Y. BTW, you keep quoting Bachar's rating of the route, as if he weren't the notorious sandbagger he was. In an up-thread link, Steve Schneider, the second ascentionist, rated the second pitch, which Bachar called 5.10d, 5.11+, and the first pitch, which Bachar called 5.11a, 5.12. He also called the route finding, which really ought to be figured into the rating, 5.13. And, let's remember that Wolfgang Gullich, the strongest climber of the era, and the guy who established the 5.14 rating, fell on this route. This is the company you are putting yourself in by claiming that you are even remotely qualified to lead this route. And as to your claim that you might be able to do it because training methods have improved, let's remember who invented the campus board: Wolfgang Gullich. Jay
(This post was edited by jt512 on Nov 22, 2010, 7:05 PM)
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jt512
Nov 22, 2010, 7:12 PM
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jmeizis wrote: Once again, there's a difference between a belief and reality. That difference is called "delusion." Jay
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jt512
Nov 23, 2010, 1:44 AM
Post #63 of 79
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jmeizis wrote: I think I might have somehow given the impression that the things on this website affect me. So far, your unconcern in this thread totals 3,109 words. Jay
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curt
Nov 23, 2010, 3:36 AM
Post #64 of 79
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jmeizis wrote: ...Apparently the line between self confidence and ego/hubris is a thin one. No, not really in this case. Curt
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blueeyedclimber
Nov 23, 2010, 4:18 AM
Post #65 of 79
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I thought the video was good. Inspirational. So inspirational, that if the route was G rated, I would have bought a plane ticket right then to go try it. But, if it was G rated, it would not be the route it is. It safe to say that I will not be trying it. Ever. Josh
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guangzhou
Nov 23, 2010, 8:27 AM
Post #66 of 79
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jmeizis wrote: spikeddem wrote: Drama queen. You are right though, I don't have a clue about how hard the B/Y is. With no personal knowledge of the route all one has to go on is videos, pictures, and written info. None of which make it look or sound like a super-mega-death route. If people want to chip in to buy me a plane ticket so I can go view the route in person and realize, holy shit that's way harder and sketchier then it looked from pictures I'd totally take them up on it. I have on occasions been bored at my computer too and took some time to click on the link to your blog. Based on your post, the way you speak about climbing, and the few photos of you on the blog, I am certain you are not on the "Cuspt" of leading BY.
In reply to: But given what I've read about the route having a V4 crux and sustained 11a and 10d climbing with 30-40 foot runouts on vertical and slightly overhanging rock. It doesn't sound that far out of my league. If I honestly taught you could get up the line, I would offer to buy you a plane ticket and have you guide me up it. In all honesty, having seen the route, I doubt you'll reach the first bolt, much less the first belay. Having seen the route, I don't plan on trying it anytime soon and I consistently on-sight 5.11. (Gear and sport, even first ascents)
In reply to: Obviously there's a differnce between how a route sounds and how it actually is. With grade differences in different areas, different types of climbing, different strengths and weaknesses, and all the other variables that make up the difficulty of a route and the ability of individual climbers it's pretty difficult to say whether or not any climber can do anything over the internet, it's just conjecture and babbling. Especially without watching them climb or doing some of the climbs they've done. THE BY is a pretty famous routes, I would say that the people who live in America and are capable of climbing have heard of it prior to this video.
In reply to: If a climbing partner who'd climbed it told me it was way out of my league I would take that advice to heart. When some random person on the internet says I'm so arrogant for thinking I'm anywhere near that ability it sounds a hair elitist. I lived and climbed in Yosemite for 18 months and only met a couple of climbers who actually had been on the route. Let put the line into perspective for you. I plan on working and training toward a free ascent of Lurking Fear, I don't plan on climbing the BY. While a free ascent of Lurking Fear has a more difficult grade, I think it's more attainable for me than climbing the B.Y. With that said, O agree with a post above, go for it, make sure you bring a cameraman, we'd like to see the footage. I am sure he and I both mean this in the same way. I really want to see the footage, almost enough to pay for the plan ticket.
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billcoe_
Nov 23, 2010, 8:42 PM
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This thread went downhill fast. Translation: JT512: Jmeize, your penis is small. jmeizis: is not. JT512: your penis is not just small, but wayyyy too small. Jmeize: Screw U, it is not. JT512: dude, I've all but seen it based on your continued descriptions here. Infinitesimally small is the correct description. Jmeize: I could make it big if I wanted too. JT: Not even close my friend. You're having delusions. Jmeize: Hey, I'm sure I could make it get bigger, I think, anyway, it's already like ....HUGE, all the time. JT: No, it isn't. Jmeize: OK, FINE! I'm gonna look at it right now. ? Jmeize: (Looking) Oh..........uhhh... Hey, screw U JT.
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jakedatc
Nov 24, 2010, 12:26 AM
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Nice.. so a .14 climber is giving it a huge amount of respect... something well below warm up level.. But I'm sure jeremiah would be fine...... oh wait.. not he wouldn't HAHAHA
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TheRucat
Nov 25, 2010, 3:46 AM
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jmeizis wrote: I'm not lumping myself in with anyone. In fact I avoid lumping myself in with anyone because every climb is different as is every climber. I never said I was going to go redpoint the B/Y or try to. Maybe read the thread more carefully. Slim chance I could, likely I can't. I'm not going to say "no effing way" without looking at it. I'm not going to tersely discourage someone else from thinking about it even if I know for a fact that I'm loads stronger than them and I'm not thinking of doing it. I definately would not do so if I had never seen them climb or been on the climb they were referring to. Hey man forget these pussies, I'll come rope up with you. We got this shit.
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jcrew
Nov 25, 2010, 4:08 AM
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TheRucat wrote: Hey man forget these pussies, I'll come rope up with you. We got this shit. we're talking tuolemene meadows, not Jersey Shore.
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TheRucat
Nov 25, 2010, 4:20 AM
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jcrew wrote: TheRucat wrote: Hey man forget these pussies, I'll come rope up with you. We got this shit. we're talking tuolemene meadows, not Jersey Shore. You disrespecting my family? Come at me bro.
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spikeddem
Nov 25, 2010, 5:25 AM
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TheRucat wrote: jcrew wrote: TheRucat wrote: Hey man forget these pussies, I'll come rope up with you. We got this shit. we're talking tuolemene meadows, not Jersey Shore. You disrespecting my family? Come at me bro. Must be a Jersey thing.
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jcrew
Nov 25, 2010, 7:03 AM
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spikeddem wrote: TheRucat wrote: jcrew wrote: TheRucat wrote: Hey man forget these pussies, I'll come rope up with you. We got this shit. we're talking tuolemene meadows, not Jersey Shore. You disrespecting my family? Come at me bro. Must be a Jersey thing. new reality show idea: Gumbies in the Meadows plot line: take a big whip and bust your melon, "hey, it's a jersey thing"
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carabiner96
Nov 25, 2010, 1:52 PM
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jt512 wrote: jmeizis wrote: I think I might have somehow given the impression that the things on this website affect me. So far, your unconcern in this thread totals 3,109 words. Jay Nerd
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