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camhead
Mar 15, 2003, 4:48 PM
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word out from a traddie wannabe weakass boulderer.
what/where are you favorite crack boulder problems? I'm thinking like very steep, not too highball, and above all, quality jamming. Granite, Monzonite, Limestone, Sandstone, whatever. A six pack of cheap beer to whomever can point me towards the ultimate off-fingers sized roof crack.
anyone been to the Crackhouse?
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kalcario
Mar 15, 2003, 5:46 PM
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In early spring to get my fingers back into thin crack shape I would do laps on Bad Ass Baby, slightly uphill from Bad Ass Mama, both of which are in the Indian Caves area of Yo Valley. Off-fingers roof, hmm...A Dog's and Alien Roof in Yosemite, but sorry, you gotta rope up...
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lox
Mar 15, 2003, 5:50 PM
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Oh and Camhead... I know of a 90 foot roof crack between horizontal and 45 degrees which has NEVER BEEN FA'ed.
You want to make a name for yourself in central Texas ?
Bring a blowtorch and some tape.
You would alos prolly be down to get on the OFFWIDTH horizontasl to 45 degrees I found at the BATCAVE. Heh.
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camhead
Mar 15, 2003, 6:28 PM
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whoa. donde está? must go.
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easysteve
Mar 15, 2003, 7:13 PM
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I never saw the crack on centex 2wo...
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camhead
Mar 15, 2003, 7:55 PM
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I can't find centex 2 on bloodyflapper. oh well, I'll have to check it oot sometime.
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crackaddict
Mar 15, 2003, 9:36 PM
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Yes, I have been to the Crackhouse!
C'mon with a name like crackaddict!
You know I've been to the Crackhouse brutha's!
By far the most awesome crack bouldering prob I have ever been on.
My second favorite is Bachar Cracker at camp 4 boulders in Yosemite.
Oh yeah!
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pywiak
Mar 15, 2003, 11:34 PM
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Try Mt. Woodson near San Diego. It is a granite crack bouldering Mecca. Plenty for everyone to play on. Stay off the faces (you'll fry your tips) and the greasy sandbag mantles the locals have wired.
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lox
Mar 16, 2003, 2:50 AM
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Camhead: Check the features box... it is the one marked "Centex Bouldering"...
And the crack only ascent has yet to go, brah...
crozley4lyfe
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pbjosh
Mar 16, 2003, 3:57 AM
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Woodson has a lot of great stuff in the 11- to 12- range, mostly OW and fingers, mostly in the 20 feet high with bad landings category, fun to TR or boulder if you've got them wired :)
Favorite crack boulder problems that I've been on, though:
Pigpen, V3, jtree, 10' roof finger crack to tight hands lip to off fingers leaning awkward topout.
Big Bob's Big Wedge, V5, jtree, 25'+ roof hands/fists to godawful OW finish.
Most inspiring line is definitely Crack House.
josh
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apollodorus
Mar 16, 2003, 4:16 AM
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The Bachar Cracker boulder problem behind Camp 4 is a finger/hand crack out a roof that's about 30 degrees less than horizontal. It has a laydown start, and you never get more than about five feet off the ground. There's often a mattress/crashpad there. The boulder is about 100 feet past the sign at the base of the Yosemite Falls trail, on the left.
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maxter
Mar 16, 2003, 2:46 PM
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McCain Valley has cracks till infinity. Rough and lined with sharp crystals. We found a boulder with 5 different size cracks. It sorta goes on forever.
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alwaysforward
Mar 17, 2003, 4:00 AM
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very cool video. some wild moves.
do you know the rating of that roof?
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kalcario
Mar 17, 2003, 5:07 AM
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You could also just pick some classic splitters in Josh or Yosemite, spread your foam pads out at the base, boulder up as high as you felt comfoortable, and then just jump off. Or downclimb. Or maybe if there's some actual climbers already on the thing, you could bum a top rope and go up as high as you felt safe, say 20' or so, and then lower down. I've seen boulderers do this at sport crags; spread pads out, do the starts and jump off, or just traverse the base, which is cool as long as they don't scream too much...
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lox
Mar 17, 2003, 6:43 AM
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Those aren't bolderers. lol.
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wes_allen
Mar 17, 2003, 3:44 PM
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Vedauwoo has many, many kick ass crack problems, from fingers to OW. Nats three star roof crack there is really nice.
Hueco has some really cool ones as well, like the morgue.
RRG has a couple pretty cool roof problems.
Pigpen and big bob's big wedge in J-tree.
Wes
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lox
Mar 17, 2003, 4:17 PM
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In reply to: do you know the rating of that roof?
There are 2 v4+ cruxes... it's jokingly been called .14b by the only guy to ever have done it.
The crack only ascent awaits some burly crack climber.
Gee Kalcario, the only thing that stands between you and the glory of pulling the hardest crack moves in North America is your definition of "real climbing."
Gosh... it must suck to be that old AND that close minded... lol !
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camhead
Mar 17, 2003, 5:11 PM
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good idea, kalcario, but if it's a route, I'll just rope up. I'm interested exclusively in those cracks which espouse all the elements of bouldering. Besides, everytime I jump on a route without a rope with the intention of 'bouldering' it, I wind up getting myself into trouble.
cruxes of v4+, lox? v4+? uh oh. I'm all over that shizzit.
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lox
Mar 17, 2003, 5:12 PM
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Doubtful, brah.
The IPS scale will slay you.
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camhead
Mar 17, 2003, 9:39 PM
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no, I fear the v4+. I hear that over in france some guy in a beret that smelled bad put up a v4++, but it was chipped.
checked out the movie on bloodyflapper. that crack looks stout. he does like the hand jammy parts, and all thee other sections look like offwidth and stuff.
booobiezzz.
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lox
Mar 17, 2003, 10:31 PM
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I have suggested Dreamtime and similar get graded at v6.
This has yet to be approved by the Committee.
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bvb
Mar 23, 2003, 1:49 AM
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anyone who does not understand that woodson has the best concentration of hard crack bouldering in the u.s. has either never been there, or has not been taking their medication. poway represent. :twisted:
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michaelpaul
Mar 24, 2003, 3:07 PM
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Yeah, Woodson is Super Cool! But after I did the FA of "Pigpen" in Josh I thought that was it, then I did the 2nd (right after Mike Lechlinski did the FA) of "Big Bob's Big Wedge" and so on. I also really dug "Bachar Cracker" in the Valley, There was an Funky ol' shot of me on that one in Rolling Stone Mag. in '82 or so. Overall though it would have to be Woodson.
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lox
Mar 24, 2003, 4:36 PM
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OOOHhh...
Spray a little more for us please !!!1
It lets us know how COOL you are !!!!!111
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pbjosh
Mar 24, 2003, 4:39 PM
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Lox, fortunately Mike is way cooler than you, and a hell of a freaking better climber. Sorry dude, that's all there is to this debate. He's probably the hardest climber on the site, with the possible exception of Steven Jeffries...
josh
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jvb
Mar 29, 2003, 1:27 AM
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Jaws. California Night. Colombo Crack. Blackfinger. Bat Flake. Hear My Train 'A Comin. Mother Superior. Robbin's Crack. Digits Delight. Boulder 13. Maria's Crack. Crucible. Monkey Crack. Undertow. Drivin' South. Razor's Edge. Sickle Crack. Lie Detector. Greg's Problem. Manuel's Horror. The VP's Office. Firefly. The Ogre. The Test Tube. And on and on, these are just the ones with NAMES... for every one of these, there's another five obscure "secret" cracks guarded by manzanita doomsville approaches that maybe ten people know about. There is a certain stellar crag with an enormous amount of history that is the center of the known universe for Crack bouldering, and you're talking to a girl who knows. Two words: Mount Woodson. Take the Woodson pressure test, if you dare...and make sure to bring some tape.
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bvb
Mar 29, 2003, 2:02 AM
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word.
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camhead
Mar 29, 2003, 3:37 AM
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okay, the old farts have got me sold. looks I missed the best season for it this year, though.
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pbjosh
Mar 29, 2003, 3:50 AM
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Jaws.
check, fantastic
California Night.
hard... makes Jaws seem like a hike
Colombo Crack.
haven't tried it...
Blackfinger.
good easy fun
Bat Flake.
way way hard
Hear My Train 'A Comin.
almost, makes California Night seem easy
Mother Superior.
makes bat flake look like 3rd class
Robbin's Crack.
the ueber classic
Digits Delight.
harder than it looks, rad
Boulder 13.
dunno this one
Maria's Crack.
not bad
Crucible.
fantastic. full body workout. right shoulder exfoliation treatment.
Monkey Crack.
way fun.
Undertow.
haven't found it
Drivin' South.
brutal, need to work on it some more
Razor's Edge.
pull hard and go fast
Sickle Crack.
way fun
Lie Detector.
so so so thin
Greg's Problem. (I assume you mean the OW next to John's Crack and Manuel's Horror)
looks gross, haven't tried it
Manuel's Horror.
good fun
The VP's Office.
haven't found it
Firefly.
haven't found it
The Ogre.
haven't tried it
The Test Tube.
looks awkward, haven't tried it
Don't forget:
Baby Robbins. Rockwork Orange. Out of Sight. Fall Semester. Right Long's Crack. Left Long's Crack. Hard As Nails (personal favorite). Aid's Victim. Mariah's OW. Eric's Crack. Slant Crack. Big Grunt. John's Crack. Starving in Stereo...
josh
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curt
Mar 29, 2003, 7:54 AM
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Mike Paul,
When you read stuff like this, regarding your post....
In reply to: OOOHhh... Spray a little more for us please !!!1 It lets us know how COOL you are !!!!!111
And Lox, if you would like to see if you could keep up with Mike on even your best day of bouldering you could possibly have in your life--my money is on Mike.
Curt
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no_limit
Mar 29, 2003, 3:34 PM
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There is some nice crack climbing at boat rock preserve in Atlanta Georgia.
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bvb
Mar 29, 2003, 4:19 PM
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oooh ya, i am der loxter, and i make the easy party of mount woodson 5.11c sandbags in california, after which i am followed by many beautifuls women of the beaches and bikinis.
"i am not lox on bagel, i am acres of flappers held on with gallons of k-mart superglue and reams of blood-soaked tape 'round about my tenth try on widow bereft..."
but serously lox, if you're ever in the neighborhood, we can arrange for you a little tour... :twisted: being a hospital, er, i mean hospitable bunch...
we KNOW you'd do for us the same
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pbjosh
Mar 30, 2003, 4:48 AM
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Went back to Woodson today for the first time in a couple of weeks... Came damned close to finally sending Hear My Train Acomin'. I've come to realize that going really fast for the first 3 moves makes it a lot easier. Did Aid's Victim finally...
Woodson rocks.
josh
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bvb
Mar 30, 2003, 7:23 PM
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aid's vicitim eh? good job dood. yeah, i had hear my train ruthlessly wired, but the aid's victim shut me down 90% of the time. of the 30 or 40 times i got on it, i probably only did the thing maybe 5 times. i'd like to go back and try with modern shoes. and on hear my train you definately wanna rifle through the first moves. i get a sinker pinkie jam with my left hand, then pop-pop-pop do three "crack campus" moves to the pod. that's the most efficient beta we came up with. of course, we'd always do it as slow and static as we could, just for the extra style points. piggot and mp could flow though the first 15 feet in in total slow-mo, like geckos on downers. it was a thing to see.
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camhead
Mar 30, 2003, 8:37 PM
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you guys have got me wetting myself on this mt. woodson place. seriously, bvb's photos rule.
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pbjosh
Mar 31, 2003, 1:35 AM
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"geckos on downers." That's probably the most interesting compliment I've ever heard ;) For Hear My Train Acomin', I always start with a good right middle finger jam and some moral support from my right ring finger but it's kind of a mono-jam, then go up to lousy left fingers in a slot and then try to make it to the pod w/ the right hand. But I always fall, I think I'm probably trying to do it too statically.
Had another good day out there today though, finally, after a lot of blood, sweat and curses, finished California Night. That thing's a bitch.
I really don't think Aid's Victim is that bad, just need a cool day to not pop out of the tips jams and off those thin edges.
Also ran into a guy up there who said that the mono on PhD was drilled which bummed me out a bunch to hear. Also said that a hold broke on Cool Jerk and was replaced with a rivet?!?! WTF?
josh
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bvb
Mar 31, 2003, 1:49 AM
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yeah, the mono on PhD was manufactured. The guy who did it regretted it immediately, it wa the first time he'd ever done anything like that. To serve his penance and make peace with his god, he got up there and tried to lead it. This was before there were any bolts on the thing. He fell of the VERY last move, blew every piece, and hit the deck hard. lydia was belaying him and yelled "SHIT!! We all just stood there stunned. This guy, who was/is SO hard core, just sat up, then stood up, and grinned sheepishly at us and said "well, that was embarassing." He was gonna go up there and epoxy the hole in with gravel and glue, but never got around to it. It's not to late, though. PhD will for sure go with the natural holds -- hard 5.13 maybe?
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lox
Mar 31, 2003, 6:07 AM
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Yeah. maybe. If you were seriously worth your weight in spray or EVEN CLOSE to being Steve Jefferies you'd be able to CONFIRM that grade for us.
Personally, I don't give a shit if you are Sharma hisself, if you come in here spraying like a fukkkin' n00b, you are worthy of ridicule. Being a hardcorps traddie/tr mt. woodson crack climber makes it evenmore humorous. I'll give you the hospital tour of Central Texas and see how you feel about all points disconnects at 25 feet. Get horizontal. No tape gloves required.
Come do 90 feet of horizontal offhands to offfists to fist to fist full extension dyno and we'll talk.
and being the "second best climber on this website" is quite possibly the LAMEST distinction one could use to validate their inherent climbing coolness. You, my friend, are a one-eyed man walking the eath in a 'KING OF THE BLIND DUMBASSES !!!!!!!11' tshirt.
Go you.
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lox
Mar 31, 2003, 6:09 AM
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Ps. Climbing on eliminate manufactured routes ? CALICHOSS.
We call teh 2 manufactured problems in Central Texas the Fairfield Children.
lol.
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camhead
Mar 31, 2003, 6:16 AM
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oh, and if any of you SoCal crackheads feel the need to come out to Texas for a lox-induced pissing contest, lemme know. Enchanted Rock has some pretty stout crack highballs.
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lox
Mar 31, 2003, 6:20 AM
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As well as some deathfall horizontal fingercracks that have yet to see FAs.
Seriously.
if any 'hardcorps' rack climbers wanted to come to Texas, there are at least 4 FAs that you could do that would be the 'hardest limestone crack climbs' in the country.
You just gotta be strong like a crack climber AND strong like me.
Check the CenTex feature at www.bloodyflapper.com... think about THAT CRACK and ONLY the crack... none of this face climbing on the roof next to the crack. lol. UNDONe.
ha !
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bvb
Mar 31, 2003, 2:07 PM
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Right on! the ARCTIC blast from the land of swamps, bugs, and moss-choked grimestone, and a three-month climbing season...although climbing in the summer with yer girlfreind...gittin all hot and sweaty an greasy...way out in the woods all alone...a couple a soft cushy pads right there...never mind that she's yer second cousin :P
OK, showdown at the OK corral. I'm ready for a little tex-mex crackage. I've seen the photos. Time for the George Bush Memorial Offwidth Challange! Bring it on. And tape is Aid.
But seriously, there's one part I missed...lox, you referred to someone who is the "second best climber on the site". Who is this person? And if that's the second best person, who's the best???
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michaelpaul
Mar 31, 2003, 3:36 PM
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Yeah who the hell is this lox guy anyway? Just cause I talked about some problems that he probably hasn't even seen before, he gets all S___TY about it! I guess I would too if I called someone else a sprayer, but I had 1790 posts on this site! Get off the computer Poser and on the Crags! Reminds me of an old joke: What is the best thing to ever come out of Texas?.....Interstate 10! Wank On Goat Packer!
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bvb
Mar 31, 2003, 3:55 PM
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yo vawto, TOUCHE! Lox goes down face first on the mat! 1...2...3...4...5...6...7.......can he get up???? :shock:
Lox, 1790 posts, my god say it ain't so! You know, carpal tunnel ain't so good for tugging on those little texmex monos.
Come on back now, come on back with a smackdown of that world-renowned texas hill country wit. and no hired guns, either -- gotta be your own material -- no ghostwriters moonlighting offa jay leno's staff!
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lox
Mar 31, 2003, 4:16 PM
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In reply to: He's probably the hardest climber on the site, with the possible exception of Steven Jeffries...
PBjosh said you weren't as hard as Steve Jeffries. I wouldn't claim to know who the "best" climber on this site is, not would I kiss ass like josh and claim YOU to be the second best... mos def based on what you have said here.
And HOW did you "shove my face in the mat again" ?
You recycled an old cali joke... (What's the best tihng to come our of cali? I10 ! lol! It works that way too !!!!!!1111) and called our season short.
It's been between 50 and 75 degrees in Texas since last October... and when it gets hot enough, we'll climb limestone up and out of the lake.
So like, you really got me and stuff...
In reply to: I'm ready for a little tex-mex crackage. I've seen the photos. Time for the George Bush Memorial Offwidth Challange! Bring it on.
PM me your flight info. Unless you are a gaping gash of a man, internet shi++alker. Come before May, after 15 April. I have a couch.
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pbjosh
Mar 31, 2003, 4:25 PM
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Lox unless you want to repeat Stingray (13d overhung tips @ jtree) you have no place to talk vs. Mike :)
josh
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bvb
Mar 31, 2003, 4:27 PM
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uh, lox, we were all hoping for something a little, oh, i don't know...funnier. wittier. you know, cheerful banter and one-upmanship. your reputation as a consummate racontuer is gonna take a hit if you can't fire back a post that's so damn funny it makes our abs ache with laughter and we snort beer out our noses. not some ill-tempered, half-baked point-by-point rebuttal of previous posts. this is IMPROV, jackson! get with the program! think robin williams on speed, not ari fleisher on downers!
think man, THINK! you can do it!
btw, i was thinking about moving to centex but bryan gibson and rob guinn talked me out of it so i moved to flagstaff instead. but i still gotta check the texas limestone out. you serious about that couch? can i bring about 16 of my best freinds?
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lox
Mar 31, 2003, 4:28 PM
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lol.
But what has he flashed at the Draw ?
That would be a far more telling angle than thin jtree crack.
He sprayed. It doesn't matter how hard he climbs... spraying in and of itself is WEAK.
You spraying FOR HIM is HELLA WEAK.
And guess what... I don't care and it doesn't matter how hard YOU climb either !!! You're WEAK, son.
Now get yourself to the limestone so I can prove it to you. lol.
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lox
Mar 31, 2003, 4:31 PM
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bvb... how do I one up you when you said you were going to come down and climb the cracks I mentioned ?
I am not.
I'd really like to see these problems done. And if you are as strong as you think you are, you should have no problem whatsoever.
I'll even help you clean... which is NO SMALL TASK. Who KNOWS what is living in that stone.
But... for 100 feet of 45 degree fingerjamming... I'll do it. I want to see it.
16 peeps is too many. And rob Guinn is a squarejawed freak. He moved away before the good shit got discovered. Think Cherry, think VAST.
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bvb
Mar 31, 2003, 4:37 PM
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all kidding aside lox, mp has secured himself a modest place in history. to date, you have secured yourself.....well, nothing i guess.
"lol"
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lox
Mar 31, 2003, 4:47 PM
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And you know this HOW ?
I mean... it's not like I spray about MY accomplishments on the internet...
Isn't irony delicious ?
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bvb
Mar 31, 2003, 4:47 PM
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now wait just one darn minnit....i never said I was strong or that I was gonna do these 100' monsters that bmake the crackhouse look like pig pen...pbjosh, i think you should go do it...and get some photo of lox's girlfreind while you're out there, ok?
[truth in advertising: this whole thread is a test of the mod's patience and tolerance; there is a betting pool going and if you want in on call 1.900.GET.BETA]
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lox
Mar 31, 2003, 4:54 PM
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crawfish.
We're mostly unmoderated in this forum. It's kinda gneiss actually. These kids know how we bolderers do... all adidas and schizz, all WEED INNA DA HAT.
Gneiss subtle hint to have this locked as it goes horribly awry and not in a way that makes you look good. "lol" indeed.
Why not the both of you mt. woodson freaks with come out and try to put a dent in the central texas history books ?
These cracks would make you legendary 'round here.
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bvb
Mar 31, 2003, 5:00 PM
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Bwah! Ya got me OK! Now that's more like it. I will conceed that round to you.
As for legendary? Hell man, I'm already, and I quote, ULTRA LEGENDARY. It's right there in print in the Little Cottonwood bouldering guide. So as for legendary, been there, done that. What's your excuse?
(Of course the guy who wrote that was on drugs or pimping for fee gear, still not sure which.)
Hey, this is post number 69. Waddaya make o dat?
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pbjosh
Mar 31, 2003, 5:04 PM
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I've already got the pix, which is what's keeping me far, far away from Texas.
I think hard crack climbing is bitchin' and there are not many people out there sending 5.13+ and 5.14 cracks compared to the number of people who send V10 or harder, but I'm in no position to send either. I still think the topout of Pigpen is a bitch :) But I also think there's more to climbing than steep limestone or volcanic pockets...
josh
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lox
Mar 31, 2003, 5:17 PM
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In reply to: But I also think there's more to climbing than steep limestone or volcanic pockets...
And there's more to women than PUSSY... but do you care ?
HAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHHAHAaaa...
3fingerpocket4lyfe !
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lox
Mar 31, 2003, 5:18 PM
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oh man... that word censor BLOWs. it totally diminishes the visual impact of the joke. lol...
here, kitty kitty kitty...
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bvb
Mar 31, 2003, 5:20 PM
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**DING**
ok, it makes me ill, but lox gets another two points on that one. :shock:
we're just gonna have hire tanya harding to kneecap the sonofabitch.
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camhead
Mar 31, 2003, 6:03 PM
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whoa, this brawl rules. I'd love to see this impending tex vs. cali crack warfare go down, ad I'll even offer my apartment in dallas (I know all the ultra hard bridge trestles that Jeff Jackson chipped up here).
Unfortunately, I don't care HOW hard these cracks in centex are. it's getting hot here, and I'm counting down the days until I leave for Indian Creek, City of Rocks and Vedauwoo. Anyone wanna meet up?
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michaelpaul
Apr 1, 2003, 4:27 AM
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Yeah F*&K! I'm Had! I'm all old and in the Way and happened to Spray a bit on myself. Sorry to all involved, the post nazis are gonna have a field day with this! Getting a little too off Topic! Watch them shuttle this one to the Backpages. Walking Wounded, signing off! PS Yeah Lox I never said anything myself about better or best! Your the Best Dude!, now prove it Cowpoke!
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lox
Apr 1, 2003, 4:46 AM
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hehehe.
Putnam County gneiss. WORd.
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crackaddict
Apr 1, 2003, 4:55 AM
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crotch wrote:In reply to: There are some decent crack problems at Oak Creek, AZ where the PBC is held.
I think you meant Queen Creek or Oak Flats. That is where the PBC is held. Oak Creek is in Sedona AZ. Some good bouldering exist there as well.
Not trying to flame you crotch just helping you out!
Later.
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mreardon
Apr 1, 2003, 6:38 PM
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Let's see MP mentions some cracks and it's spray according to the all-wise and wonderful fishboy. Fishboy sprays about how ripped he is and the women he's had, yet all we've seen are pictures of him pulling 2 feet off the ground or hanging on a toprope (if your feet are off and the rope is tight and you're only 6 feet off the deck - you definitely qualify for the big kitty award), and we all know that with this much time on rc.com, he's not dating, he's just masturbating. As for laying on that mat, he's always head down azz up, so why would it be any different now?
Calichoss has ruled for several decades and continues to do so be-yatch! We got solid rock, 330 days of sunshine, and every type of climbing one could want. Even limestone punk! You're just too scared to come play because then you'd have to get off'a momma's teet, steal the station wagon and leave the home stillborn in the park.
It may sound like I'm suckin' the trousersnake for sprayin' big about MP, but considering how many times he has the mentions in the guides and was there when we were still in diapers dreaming of the day of crashpads and sticky rubber, it's not a sin to give props where due. And I have never heard him spray once about his accomplishments. In fact, the only time that I have had the pleasure of his company was when I stumbled upon one of his "warm-ups" and he politely stepped aside and shared beta.
So back off punk or shut up and prove what you got because so far you ain't nothin but an ego-driven ratings whore lacking even a hint of a vagina much less huevos to actually back anything you claim.
eatme4lyfeUdumnmuthafukka!!!1
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lox
Apr 1, 2003, 6:59 PM
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lol.
I think they have like, anger management classes for peeps like you or something.
I don't need to prove myself to anyone, much less a chuffwit californian such as yourself. Ha! I spit on you like so many lowly sidewalks.
Spraying on the internet is for SUCKAZ and chossholes. It doesn't matter if you WRITE THE FREAKIN' GUIDEBOOK, don't come spray about your FAs to peeps and think that makes you an authority about this topic. If anything it makes you biased. lol.
So yeah... take MP's cock out of your mouth and enroll in some therapy, brah. You got more issues than TIME MAGAZINE.
Careful now... don't choke on it ! lol...
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bvb
Apr 1, 2003, 7:09 PM
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uhhh, lox, retreating to "anger management" snipes don't cut it. m.r. was simply laying out the facts...and probably kickin' back with a beer and a smirk as he composed his post. not a lot of anger in his response, just logic, fact, and a firm grasp of history. something notably absent from your posts, which are growing weaker by the moment.
Quote from Lox : "spraying on the internet is for SUCKAZ and chossholes"
Lox, this was post number 1,806 for you...oh the irony...you know what they say about people who live in glass houses, right?
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crotch
Apr 1, 2003, 7:17 PM
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gone
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mreardon
Apr 1, 2003, 8:02 PM
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Actually a bottle of red wine keeps me chillin' the most, but it's all good. As for anger management, naw, I just keep laughing all the way to the moral bank when I read the huffin' puffin' of a wannabe. And unlike fishboy who has no choice but to stay at home suckin' on daddy's pension thereby forcing him to say that his area is the best (ignorance is bliss) my being a Cali-boy is a choice. I've been around the world once or twice and climbed in a handful of the better history places with some of the greatest out there (amazingly but no one has heard of fishboy or any of his accomplishments in that malaria-ridden moss he calls a climbing destination), and have found no comparison to what I got for a backyard. But hey, any more on that and fishboy will just call it spray so I'll let the fine decades of history and the sheer amount of quality strong climbers do the boasting.
Time to go back outside for some real climbing instead of this pretend boasting....
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lox
Apr 1, 2003, 9:16 PM
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Simply the fact that you say "sittin' at home, suckin'on daddy's pension" is a good indicator of how misinformed you are. I am currently sitting in New York, not at home. And my father is neither retired nor supporting me financially.
I have a great deal of respect for history, and have climbed many places in California. heh.
But authoring routes or having your name mentioned in a guidebook doesn't make you some sort of untouchable god-like person who people must bow before because their opinion doesn't matter because they were THERE man. Duh. You gotta keep it real, you gotta keep it humble. all Jgill style.
Shi t man, for all your talk of how good someone else is and for all your disparaging comments about me and MY ability, you also say you "have never heard of [me] and [my] accomplishments"...
Did you ever stop to think that perhaps it's because I'm exactly the sort of humble strong climber who doesn't give a shit about accomplishments people of your ilk can tangibly measure ?!?
Yeah, retreat to your history books and your ad hominem arguement. Keep your spraylord heros. You are the epitomy of the Cali climbing scene and most of the reason I hate that scene so much. Keep cranking, man... and remember, if it's overhanging, it ain't real !!!111
lol.
bicuspid4lyfe.
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curt
Apr 1, 2003, 10:46 PM
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Lox,
I find it somewhat ironic that you, of all people, suggest anger management therapy for anybody else. You have probably pissed off more people at RC.com than any other individual on the site.
It wouldn't hurt you to take a couple of remedial classes in interpersonal relations skills yourself. Then, come out west and we will give you some free bouldering lessons.
After all that--assuming you live, you just may become the person that you already are pretending to be.
Curt
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lox
Apr 1, 2003, 10:59 PM
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Curt.
Lets compare Draw ticklists.
:P
Lox
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lox
Apr 1, 2003, 11:00 PM
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PS. You first. lol.
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curt
Apr 1, 2003, 11:05 PM
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In reply to: Curt. Lets compare Draw ticklists. :P Lox
According to you, listing things that you have climbed is "spraying" isn't it? It was when you flamed MP a couple of pages back.
Curt
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michaelpaul
Apr 2, 2003, 4:31 AM
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Yer so good Lox! I'm a bit put off by all your pretentions! I guess the Gloves are off! Was that your chick in your Grand Pics or your "GREASED UP MONKEY LOVER"? Spottin' yer ASS 2' off the deck! HEROIC! Take a firm grip Sailor! Your Ass is in the Air and WIDE OPEN!
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bvb
Apr 2, 2003, 4:47 AM
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Bwahhhhahhahahaha
Send it, 'Tusi! Just like back in the day!
How long do you think 'ol Loxie would have lasted in Hidden Valley or C4 before he got clocked...or picked up a highly derisive nickname..?
The sick thing is, we all have our "personas' on these bb's that bear little or no resemblance to what were like in real life. My guess is that the fishflapper man is deliberately baiting folks for the fun of it. I've been guilty of this on occasion. So lox, next time your in Flag, let us know and we can smoke the mega and duke this one out on the steeps.
But: for the record: here's some cold hard fact, Lox: if you even attempted to follow MP for a day on his typical JT or Valley bouldering or solo circuit, in like 82 or 83, you'd be in a body bag. Not spray, just fact. Not that Mike would ever mention this...he's mellowed with age, lives a humble and spray free life, and don't got nothin to prove anymore. But you, sir, with your 1800+ posts and your incessant chest beating....well, in your case, words speak far louder than actions, don't they?
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mreardon
Apr 2, 2003, 5:37 AM
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Curt and BVB I never had a chance to know you "in the day" but having met Curt (I'm still waiting for the "rematch" in J-Tree) and seeing what bvb has provided to the site in terms of encouragement, photos, and convictions to the ethics, I'd gladly toast a couple and climb with you folks anyday.
Fishyboy only does it cause he's bored and a poster child for ritalin. Normally I don't take the bait, but once in a while it's just plain fun to watch him actually get angry and show his true moronic self. As you get to read more about him, you realize that he's just another socially disfunctional putz with too much time on his hands and minimal ability in the real world (both climbing and otherwise). Cody has the ability to be talented, but chooses the easier, more cowardly way instead. I forget the saying, something about when lacking the truth to back your claim, baffle them with chuffery or something like that....
mikepaulandotherhistorymakers4lyfe!!!1 <-- those things are so stupid aren't they?
Hey fishboy, we're heading to bishop, c'mon out and play. I promise we'll let you toprope so you can feel at home (love those pictures with you hanging on the rope a couple feet off the "deck"). See - it's just too easy when you have the truth behind you.
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lox
Apr 2, 2003, 6:12 AM
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In reply to: Yer so good Lox! I'm a bit put off by all your pretentions! I guess the Gloves are off! Was that your chick in your Grand Pics or your "GREASED UP MONKEY LOVER"? Spottin' yer ASS 2' off the deck! HEROIC! Take a firm grip Sailor! Your Ass is in the Air and WIDE OPEN!
This is the man that is a hallowed member of our climbing history, ladies and gentlemen. Welcome to California... Despite being a total jackass, we must respect him for what he did in 1982. Like we have to respect Mike Tyson, even though he is a drooling idiot hisself.
Part of the POINT, bvb, is that I do NOT puff up my chest. I am actually a sight bit more the person I am chastising MP for NOT being and less of the person you claim I am. Heh.
I am not above doing simple things, like toproping VB to appease the whim of an excellent hostess, without worrying about how it makes me look to you dumb motherfuckers... I don't give a rat's ass what you think of me.
That's why I said "PS: You first." After "Let's compare Draw ticklists." heh.
I honestly don't understand what the three of you hope to prove by continuing to attack me in this manner. I seriously don't. Perhaps you think you are 'taking me down a peg' or something of that nature... but it's getting irrritatingly pedantic. I will ALWAYS think that spraylords and people who post crap like what I quote at the beginning of this post are IDIOTS. No matter how hard they climbed at Josh in 1983. lol.
Call me 'new school' or something.
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lox
Apr 2, 2003, 6:13 AM
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Ps. Post that Draw ticklist. I'll tell you how many of them I have flashed. lol.
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curt
Apr 2, 2003, 6:22 AM
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Lox,
Look, I understand that California is no central Texas--as far as climbing is concerned but it is all we have.
However if you still want to compare Arizona bouldering resumes with me (Priest Draw included) then go and do the Fire Pit Problem of Bob Murray's at Cochise, and maybe we can talk.
Curt
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lox
Apr 2, 2003, 6:27 AM
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Cochise is no boldering destination spot.
That's like me saying "Oh, I'm sorry you think you are badass, but you aren't as badass as you think. Go do Maynard at Red Bluff in San Antonio in August and THEN WE'LL TALK."
Ha !
I'm just choosing a spot that I've spent extensive (12 days!) time at that's near your zone.
And yes, I have heard of this Firepit problem at Cochise and it is on my things to do list. heh. I hear it's IPS v4 and not bad for the grade. I'm on point. lol. I'll flash it.
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pbjosh
Apr 2, 2003, 6:32 AM
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In reply to: I'm on point. lol. I'll flash it.
spray.
josh
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lox
Apr 2, 2003, 6:44 AM
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lol. No way.
I just get psyched for that shit. It's all about the flash,baby. YEAH.
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curt
Apr 2, 2003, 6:45 AM
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Lox,
Sorry, I keep forgetting that the bouldering universe revolves around central Texas. Most of us here never knew that until you brought it to our attention.
However, if you are interested in the Draw and other Flagstaff bouldering areas, you should be aware that many of the problems there are misnamed because the first ascents were done well before some later folks wanted to get their names into a guide book.
Carnivore direct for example (which I was in on the first ascent of) is really called "The spindle" and was first done by Kerwin Klein more than 10 years ago.
Curt
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lox
Apr 2, 2003, 6:52 AM
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Whoopee...
Post the ticklist with either the new skool or old school names. It really doesn't matter.
Now, you are just ducking the question.
If you don't want to spray about your own accomplishments, then why are you a) defending someone who does and b) disparaging me for puffing up my chest ? I'm not claiming that YOU are weak. Part of your attempt to discredit me revolves around how WEAK I am and how I have NO ACCOMPLISHMENTS and I DON'T KNOW because I'm just a bolderer with 1800 posts. lol.
Post your fucking Draw ticklist. I call.
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curt
Apr 2, 2003, 7:10 AM
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In reply to: If you don't want to spray about your own accomplishments, then why are you a) defending someone who does and b) disparaging me for puffing up my chest ? I'm not claiming that YOU are weak. Part of your attempt to discredit me revolves around how WEAK I am and how I have NO ACCOMPLISHMENTS and I DON'T KNOW because I'm just a bolderer with 1800 posts. lol.
First of all, the 1800 post thing was a comment from bvb, not me. As I have 1400+ posts, that comment would make little sense coming from me.
Also, I am not trying to discredit you because you have no accomplishments, but rather because you have absolutely no respect for the accomplishments of others--who have preceeded you, and who are, in fact, better than you.
Of course, the idea that anyone could have possibly ever been better than you, is one that I am quite sure you will have a hard time accepting.
And, I will not fall into your "spray" game but if you want to come to AZ some time in the future and try to keep up with me bouldering at Oak Flats, Cochise, Gloria's or the Draw, I am all for it.
Curt
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lox
Apr 2, 2003, 7:16 AM
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Dude. I have never ever EVER claimed that i am the best climber in the world. I know there will ALWAYS be stronger climbers than me. I am smart enough to know I have a lot to learn. lol.
But, I am going to ridicule the guy who writes this:
In reply to: Yer so good Lox! I'm a bit put off by all your pretentions! I guess the Gloves are off! Was that your chick in your Grand Pics or your "GREASED UP MONKEY LOVER"? Spottin' yer ASS 2' off the deck! HEROIC! Take a firm grip Sailor! Your Ass is in the Air and WIDE OPEN!
No matter how hard he climbed in 1982.
DUH.
I do not care how many times his name is in a Jtree guidebook, it's not a "be an spraymeister jerkface on the internet" license.
sorry.
and please excuse getting you and bvb confused. I understand each of you would like to attack me in your own individual ways, sorry if I simply defend myself from all attack simultaneously.
Jesus. You'd think I just killed the Pope or something. Jean Micheal, what did you do man, discover jtree or something ? Has every socal climber given you a beejay, or just these 3 guys ? lol. Write us some more unintelligible garbage so I can remember how rad you were when Phil Collins was still in Genesis. HA !
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lox
Apr 2, 2003, 7:19 AM
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Also, isn't telling me there is no way I could keep up with you at the Draw easier than actually posting your ticklist and seeing if I am REALLY less strong than you. heh.
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lox
Apr 2, 2003, 7:22 AM
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Curt. nevermind, dude. I am sure you could totally school me at boldering. If I ever come there I will be sure to hit you up for all the beta. lol. 4real.
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alpnclmbr1
Apr 2, 2003, 9:25 AM
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Hey MP welcome to the site. Met your brother a couple of winters ago, seems he has caught the bug to, is he sticking with it? Super nice guy.
It seems you have gotten the standard lox intro, kind of tame compared to the troll, don’t you think? He isn’t so far off of the general consensus on this site, and mostly say’s what he thinks. Trying to keep this a spray free zone(not that there is anything wrong with being proud of your contributions to the climbing community) probably isn’t a bad idea, makes for more useful reading. Welcome to the internet.
Climbing is not about you vs. someone else, it is about you and the rock.
Mp is not an innocent virgin that needs to be coddled, and lox is not evil incarnate. You guys need to lighten up on the hypocrisy.
Back on the original track there is a stellar offwidth problem at the base of the rusty wall. Matched toe heels and stacks in a roof to start, and then it gets hard. Another one is a thin crack to the right when facing the dripper, it has a bolt on top for a tr. No one sent it as a tr, but it went ground up as a boulder problem, no repeats as far as I know.
By the way stingray was a chisel fest(creative pinning) which detracts a lot from it’s notability scale.
Ps. Also there is a sick sloper problem starting off the finger crack part of pigpen. Question for MP, who started calling pigpen the bachar cracker of the desert?
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kinz
Apr 2, 2003, 9:53 AM
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centex 4life!!!!!!!!!!!
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lox
Apr 2, 2003, 3:19 PM
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you GO kinz, lol.
Another question for the brusied ego crowd... where is the Bachar Cracker of New England ?
Inquiring minds want to know...
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bvb
Apr 2, 2003, 3:32 PM
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apologies curt, i'll have to correct you, if for no other reason than to grandstand my encyclopedic knowledge of american climbing history:
at the draw, carnivore direct is actually called "the kleinian spindle", not "the spindle" as you indicate. unless, perhaps, kerwin dropped the "kleinian" part in a sudden fit of modesty...!
now loxie, remember, next time yer comin' out for some flag limey, let me know...i'm 45, hammered and scarred, and, like, a V4 climber at the draw, so i'll be looking to you for essential beta on the 12a's/B1's/V4's whatever...and i do want to meet in person the phenomena that is LOX...if for no other reason than out of anthropological interest! do you have a good looking girlfreind? does she like older men? am i violating some sexual harrassment guideline right now???? :roll:
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bvb
Apr 2, 2003, 3:43 PM
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Lox, if you actually are heading on a trip to NE and want to get to the BC of New England, PM me and I'll give you directions.
And as for bruised egos? get real. Ithink th one commen denomonator among us all is that are egos are pretty much iron clad...speaking for myself, shoot, i got nothing to prove anymore, and as for you, you probably where I was 23 years ago, at the peak of you ability and in the midst of "the storm years of tyour youth".
If you go to BC o' NE, take video...dis i like to seeeeeeee...! :twisted:
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michaelpaul
Apr 2, 2003, 5:10 PM
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Just because people might be my friends is actually a good thing Lox! It doesn't look like you're getting a lot of support here Dude! I was glad to have climbed when there wasn't a lot of Joke Retards like you lurking around! And yes quote me anytime Jerkoff, Your Spraying, my Spraying, what's the dif? You must just have a small penis and drive a big truck, riflerack and all that! Wanker!
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curt
Apr 2, 2003, 5:20 PM
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Bob,
In reply to: apologies curt, i'll have to correct you, if for no other reason than to grandstand my encyclopedic knowledge of american climbing history: at the draw, carnivore direct is actually called "the kleinian spindle", not "the spindle" as you indicate. unless, perhaps, kerwin dropped the "kleinian" part in a sudden fit of modesty...!
Curt
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lox
Apr 2, 2003, 6:01 PM
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In reply to: Just because people might be my friends is actually a good thing Lox! It doesn't look like you're getting a lot of support here Dude! I was glad to have climbed when there wasn't a lot of Joke Retards like you lurking around! And yes quote me anytime Jerkoff, Your Spraying, my Spraying, what's the dif? You must just have a small penis and drive a big truck, riflerack and all that! Wanker!
HAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAaaa...
Jesus.
It's like they dusted off the dinosaur bones and turned them into standup comedians. lol.
NOOOOOOOO!!!!111 He called me a Joke Retard !!!111 With capital J and R !!!!!!!!!!1111111 NOOOOOOOOOoooo11111111111111111111
lol.
We prefer joke mentally challenged, thankyouverymuch.
Anyone know the Receptionist's real name ?
bvb. I am sitting in fishkill NEW YORK. Where is the New England Bachar Cracker, plz.
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mreardon
Apr 2, 2003, 10:21 PM
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Let's recap a moment with fishboy....
"I do NOT puff up my chest."
Followed by -
"I'm on point. I'll flash it."
Or his description of himself -
"effin' RIPPED. Climbing 15 years, I don't really do anything but climb, work, read and have crazyhotsweatylubedmonkey sex with really hot girls."
Masturbating to girls on the internet does not count as "dating".
"isn't telling me there is no way I could keep up with you at the Draw easier than actually posting your ticklist and seeing if I am REALLY less strong than you."
The same could be said of you. Have you done anything other than a toproped VB?
"I don't give a rat's ass what you think of me."
Then why do you respond at every little comment? Again, just too easy.... If he spent half this much energy creating trails or organizing a clean-up project there would at least be some contribution to climbing, instead he wastes his time trying to impress us with the above nonsense. Okay, now the horse is dead, I'm gonna' go get on Bachar Cracker of the Desert this weekend rather than fantasize about climbing like fishboy.
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lox
Apr 2, 2003, 11:10 PM
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Give. It. Up.
You dislike me. Point taken. We can do without your sheisty recap of why you dislike me and you sheisty hood flaring about whatever bolder problem you are going to throw your age-ravaged body at this weekend. lol.
Thanks.
I would still appreciate directions to the NE Bachar Cracker.
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camhead
Apr 2, 2003, 11:36 PM
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this is one of the most amusing threads I've read for a while. Lox vs. the old farts.
one observation: Texas bouldering is good, even though I'm not a strong boulderer. however, I can't wait to get the hell out of this state and move back west. no problem with the boulders, but it is just lame that I can't find a cliff that's over fifty feet high.
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curt
Apr 2, 2003, 11:46 PM
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Paul,
In reply to: this is one of the most amusing threads I've read for a while. Lox vs. the old farts.
Curt
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mreardon
Apr 4, 2003, 6:57 PM
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Woohoo! I'm now considered an old fart!!! And I managed to get fishyboy pissy by hitting too close to home - 2 for 2!!!
Let's see: be an old fart who's still climbing after all these years, making money, loves his job, living on 40 acres of prime cali real estate, married a big-breasted hottie, and being compared to older farts who make even more money, climb even harder OR be compared to a VB top-roping 20-nothin' wannabe with nothing better to do in life than hang on the internet cause he can't even get a date? Let me see.... Checking the memos.... :lol:
This is by far one of the funnest forums. :D
And for the record, I never sprayed about a problem on this forum, just backing the boys like a proper fag hag when someone without any ability tries to slander them.
As for Texas climbing, hands down it definitely has some of the best bouldering in Hueco and a couple other areas from all that I've heard. It's just not the only place in the world with quality. It's all good depending on perspective. Even the dreaded fisher towers *shivers*.
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pbjosh
Apr 4, 2003, 7:10 PM
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In reply to: It's all good depending on perspective. Even the dreaded fisher towers *shivers*.
You're totally right on that one. Compared to the Mysteries or Monument Basin (Standing Rock, Shark's Fin) *double and triple shivers*, the Fisher's aren't half bad, heh.
josh
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wigglestick
Apr 4, 2003, 7:14 PM
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In reply to: married a big-breasted hottie
We'll be the judge of that. Post pictures :D
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lox
Apr 4, 2003, 7:23 PM
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In reply to: Woohoo! I'm now considered an old fart!!! And I managed to get fishyboy pissy by hitting too close to home - 2 for 2!!!
You didn't "get me pissy." lol.
You are a moron who can't seem to let this all go.
Yay for you.
You don't like me. Point taken.
In reply to: making money, loves his job, living on 40 acres of prime cali real estate, married a big-breasted hottie, and being compared to older farts who make even more money, climb even harder
HAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHHAHAHAaaaa...
You cali chuffwits can't go ONE POST without spraying, CAN YOU ?!?!?!?
lol.
HAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAaaaa.
Hey... I did the Official yesterday. It was gneiss. IPS4LYFE. lol.
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mojorisin
Apr 4, 2003, 11:23 PM
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In reply to: you GO kinz, lol. Another question for the brusied ego crowd... where is the Bachar Cracker of New England ? Inquiring minds want to know...
I cant tell you Lox,,there are paople that would kill me,,for real,,,, :P :lol: :P :lol: :P :lol:
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lox
Apr 5, 2003, 12:54 AM
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lol.
It's too far from me here, but thanks !
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bvb
Apr 5, 2003, 5:22 AM
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so mojorisin, i'm trying to bite off my tongue as i ask this incredibly tacky question...but how hard do the current NE crowd think B.C.O.N.E. is? I figured oldskool B1plus. That's kinda what verm thought too.
But then, some spotters and a bunch of pads to fill in that ankle braker talus hole right undr the crux lip rollover woulda been nice! Jocelyn REFUSED to spot me....
The notch seemed to have unlimited potential for development. Have you guys been busy cleaing and sending?
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dmon
Apr 5, 2003, 5:47 AM
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In reply to: Let's see: be an old fart who's still climbing after all these years, making money, loves his job, living on 40 acres of prime cali real estate, married a big-breasted hottie, and being compared to older farts who make even more money...
Wow, you really made it. So why do you have to resort to calling Lox "fishboy"? You are proving his point.
Keep it up Lox. Bvb is the only "old fart" who has said anything to win respect in this thread. Michael Paul, even if he is a great climber, has only written semi-intelligible crap, and mreardon, who "doesn't usually take the bait" has just made himself look like a wanker with his talk of his "big-breasted" wife.
Here's a tip for you all: arguing on the internet is like competing in the special olympics. Even if you win, you are still a retard.
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curt
Apr 5, 2003, 7:06 AM
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In reply to: In reply to: Let's see: be an old fart who's still climbing after all these years, making money, loves his job, living on 40 acres of prime cali real estate, married a big-breasted hottie, and being compared to older farts who make even more money... Wow, you really made it. So why do you have to resort to calling Lox "fishboy"? You are proving his point. Keep it up Lox. Bvb is the only "old fart" who has said anything to win respect in this thread. Michael Paul, even if he is a great climber, has only written semi-intelligible crap, and mreardon, who "doesn't usually take the bait" has just made himself look like a wanker with his talk of his "big-breasted" wife. Here's a tip for you all: arguing on the internet is like competing in the special olympics. Even if you win, you are still a retard.
Duncan,
It looks like you have made the unfortunate mistake of taking this thread seriously. I thought you Aussies had a sense of humor?
Curt
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mreardon
Apr 5, 2003, 3:21 PM
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Wiggle - It's the pictures that keep her married to me!
Fishboy - I don't hate you, you putz I don't know you, it's merely a forum that if you slander, expect some back. You repeatedly call me old and a cali chuffwit on this board and others when you know absolutely nothing about me and you want me to just sit back and take it. Sheesh. Don't take it so personal (here's where you have to get the last word so go ahead, I won't bother responding to you anymore now that I know you're so sensitive).
Bvb - haven't heard of any new skoolers working the area you speak of. I have heard of some upper state New York areas getting some new "reworking" and there are a couple distant new areas in the Sespe getting some trailwork done to access the deep highballs with water landings.
And I agree with Curt (I'll see you at Yosemite), what happened to the humor of the rest of you? If you are really taking this seriously, then reach to the back of the computer, find the off switch, then use it, go outside, and don't come back until you masturbate at least three times to relieve the stress.
Now this is fun and all, but it's time to take my old and creaking bones and go bag a weekend worth of "cali-choss" since I don't have the pleasure of being truly schooled by so many experts on their personal crags....
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lox
Apr 5, 2003, 6:19 PM
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Rear. Don.
lol.
I never said you hated me... I merely said that you, ALL THREE OF YOU DUMB MOFAEKERS... got all in a huff when I called your idol, the unintelligbile MP, on his spraymeister ways. lol. You took it personal and responded by trying to slag off my climbing ability... when you realize it can't be done and you look like a totalass, hey ! it's all in fun, eh ?
lol.
Careful, kids... y'all might get rugburn on yer dicks from strokin' each other off so much.
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camhead
Apr 5, 2003, 8:28 PM
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dude, that's not a crack... respect my thread, bizzatchimøs.
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mojorisin
Apr 6, 2003, 12:50 AM
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A bit off topic Lox but I have to appreciate the talant,,nice work lad.
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one900johnnyk
Apr 6, 2003, 2:50 AM
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what shoes are those? it's gotta be the shoes
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camhead
Apr 6, 2003, 2:54 AM
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that looks like it might almost be v4+...
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mojorisin
Apr 6, 2003, 2:58 AM
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camhead is such a hard ass,, :P :lol: :P :lol:
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lox
Apr 6, 2003, 3:29 AM
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it is v4+...
lol.
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curt
Apr 6, 2003, 4:36 AM
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Lox,
Nice job by the photographer to catch you right at your high-point on the problem. Hehe
Curt
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camhead
Apr 6, 2003, 4:45 AM
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I like it how the photographer tilted the camera so that it looks steep, too. come on, that's really a v0- jug slab.
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curt
Apr 6, 2003, 4:53 AM
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In reply to: I like it how the photographer tilted the camera so that it looks steep, too. come on, that's really a v0- jug slab.
That's really harsh on the rating, Paul--I would give it V0+. And I would have said it looked like V1, if Lox would have been more than 18 inches off the ground. Hehe.
Curt
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lox
Apr 6, 2003, 6:52 AM
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Curt... I'd like to see you do the stand, there... big guy.
Now who's talking big on the internet.. oh look.. caliBOYZ. lol.
You guys wouldn't know aesthetic boldering if it bit you on teh ass... lol.
GNEISS4LYFE.
http://www.0friction.com/...riction_pic_1347.jpg
hehe...
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curt
Apr 6, 2003, 5:18 PM
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Lox,
In reply to: You guys wouldn't know aesthetic boldering if it bit you on teh ass... lol.
Well, when I started bouldering, "aesthetic" problems were not defined by digging out all the bat and rodent guano from under the shortest rock available and then crawling into the hole--in order to climb out.
But, times do change. I guess I've not kept up. Hehe.
Curt
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bvb
Apr 6, 2003, 5:33 PM
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Hoooooo! The hudson river bottom-feeder, uh, I mean LOX, takes another one on the chin! The crowd breathlessly awaits to see if he can get up off the mat and return fire! Curt "Raging Bull" Shannon is sent to a nuetral corner while referee bvb begins the count: one...two...three....
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alpnclmbr1
Apr 6, 2003, 7:11 PM
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In reply to: Duncan, It looks like you have made the unfortunate mistake of taking this thread seriously. I thought you Aussies had a sense of humor?
that is a bit disingenuous of you. This thread stopped being good fun a long time ago. I would agree that if lox is going to dish it out he should be able to take return fire. Nevertheless, this has gone way to far and if you are trying to influence lox's behavior, your not going to do it by behaving like this.
bvb: congrats on maintaining a sense of humor and not taking things to far
boy do I hate being in the city
d.
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bvb
Apr 6, 2003, 8:07 PM
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dude, i'm just trying to rack up enough posts so that i don't have to ba an onsite "studette" anymore. whaddafuggininsult. i'm 155 pounds of rock hard muscle and steely sinew, a fire-breathin' whisky guzzlin thin crack climbin' microhold slab climbin' monster. wimmen LOVE me. my wife climbs BETTER than me. my mom LOVES me...and, I'm sure, Lox's mother loves him, too.
Jesus Wept.
Post number 98 and counting.....
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camhead
Apr 6, 2003, 9:00 PM
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hey bob, if you really wanna rack up the post count, just do what I did and move to some godawful hellhole in the southern plains where all you do is pathetically surf the 'net all day.
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mojorisin
Apr 6, 2003, 11:26 PM
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Thank you sir may I have another,,SLAM,,Thank you sir may I have another,,SLAM,,Thank you sir may I have another,,,,,,,,
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alpnclmbr1
Apr 6, 2003, 11:39 PM
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Just to keep things clear
I tolerate lox.
I respect Curt.
And I think it is a shame what happened to this thread given that it is a topic that I really would of liked to hear more about.
Can't wait for the tree's
d.
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curt
Apr 7, 2003, 1:54 AM
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In reply to: Just to keep things clear I tolerate lox. I respect Curt. And I think it is a shame what happened to this thread given that it is a topic that I really would of liked to hear more about. Can't wait for the tree's d.
OK, OK. Point taken. I do solemnly swear to no longer debate, argue with, respond to--in a negative way, flame, slam or otherwise abuse LOX in this thread.
Curt
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lox
Apr 7, 2003, 2:05 AM
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In reply to: Well, when I started bouldering, "aesthetic" problems were not defined by digging out all the bat and rodent guano from under the shortest rock available and then crawling into the hole--in order to climb out.
Curt,
You also probably started boldering before Hueco Tanks was world reknown as some of the best boldering on the planet.
Do you want a cookie ?
Is all of Hueco dug out guano ? lol.
http://www.0friction.com/..._friction_pic_41.jpg
Dug that one out last winter...
Fact is... I started boldering before the FIRST time you quit climbing... lol.
Talk out of your ass much ?
Oh I think you do... lol.
Please, put your teeth back in before you continue to tell me about the "good ol' days"... the whistling is really unnerving. lol.
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bvb
Apr 7, 2003, 3:24 AM
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uhh, lox, among adults -- and it appears that you're not quite there yet -- when offered a fig leaf, it's considered a graceful move to accept it. you obviously need to have the last word (or post in this case) on everything. i'm beginning to wonder if what quite a few people say about you is true. but curts last post was a class act; you're follow-up was the act of a nerd.
i'll reserve judgement for the day we inevitably meet: as i've said before, as an amature climbing anthropologist i'm fascinated by "characters" -- as a matter of fact, i've been engaged in an interactive study of an unusual specimin in a different thread who makes you look like the vary paragon of rationality... :wink:
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alpnclmbr1
Apr 7, 2003, 3:47 AM
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Hey lax
at first I thought Curt was overreacting to your normal meanspirited assault on a newbie on the boards.
then he makes a peace offering and you throw it back in his face.
so your back to being an $ss.
what goes around comes around
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lox
Apr 7, 2003, 4:45 AM
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In reply to: i've been engaged in an interactive study of an unusual specimin in a different thread who makes you look like the vary paragon of rationality...
I AM... lol..
And alpnclimber... WTF are you talking about ? I was there in 98... and have been back quite a bit since...
Where are the wannabe problems ? lol.
I mean... I've done lots of left and right problems there... just curious.
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lox
Apr 7, 2003, 6:15 AM
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***Lox gives Daisy a cookie***
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andy_lemon
Apr 7, 2003, 1:49 PM
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In reply to: what/where are you favorite crack boulder problems? I'm thinking like very steep, not too highball, and above all, quality jamming. Granite, Monzonite, Limestone, Sandstone, whatever. A six pack of cheap beer to whomever can point me towards the ultimate off-fingers sized roof crack.
Not a ton of crack bouldering in these parts... I'd say Dawson Bluffs in KY has the most crack bouldering in my area at about 8 problems (maybe more). Then, I'd have to go with a few random problems in Indiana.
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bvb
Apr 7, 2003, 3:20 PM
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Loooking for an off-fingers roof? it's only 12b or c, but "A Dog's Roof" in Yosemite is inch and a quarter through what felt like a 120 or 130 degree roof. pretty burly, and the usual impeccable valley quality splitter.
At the magnolia boulders in San Diego there's a boulder problem that's 1 1/4 through 15 feet of super steep terrain (130 degrees or thereabouts?); it's never been done from a sit start, in fact i'll bet nobody's even been to the boulder since the early 80's. probably v7/8 range. perfect stone, too.
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andy_lemon
Apr 7, 2003, 4:42 PM
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In reply to: what felt like a 120 or 130 degree roof
I think your supposed to measure roof angles from the ground up... (eg. 60-50 degree roof)???
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bvb
Apr 7, 2003, 6:24 PM
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guess it depends on who you're talking too. either way works. 55 - 60 degrees is the glacier point apron, 90 degrees is dead vertical, 100 is slighly overhanging, 130 degrees is damn steep, 180 degrees is a dead horizonal roof. or, you can express degrees of steepness using the terms you've described. either way, folks get the picture -- steep....steep :shock: is GOOD....
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camhead
Apr 8, 2003, 6:18 AM
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bvb quote
In reply to: Loooking for an off-fingers roof? it's only 12b or c, but "A Dog's Roof" in Yosemite is inch and a quarter through what felt like a 120 or 130 degree roof. pretty burly, and the usual impeccable valley quality splitter. At the magnolia boulders in San Diego there's a boulder problem that's 1 1/4 through 15 feet of super steep terrain (130 degrees or thereabouts?); it's never been done from a sit start, in fact i'll bet nobody's even been to the boulder since the early 80's. probably v7/8 range. perfect stone, too.
sweeeet. Dog's Roof sounds cool. Inch and a half is still good hands for me. hehe. that one in San Diego sounds sweet too. fire. hand grenades.
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pbjosh
Apr 8, 2003, 6:34 AM
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I've never been to Magnolia, sounds like I now have a good reason to start going. Though V7/8 crack is pretty much not happening for me it's good to work on this stuff and get stronger!
josh
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lox
Apr 8, 2003, 6:23 PM
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WUSS ! lol.
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atg200
Apr 16, 2003, 12:35 PM
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Somebody slagged the Fisher Towers earlier, but there is actually a really nice dyno problem just off the trail in between the Titan and Cottontail Tower. The underlying rock is very solid once you clean off the mud, so the place could probably yield a lot of really good steep bouldering with cool slopey mantle topouts. Lots of good crack problems to do as well that are untouched.
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fieldmouse
May 6, 2003, 6:37 PM
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I realize that this thread is kind of old, but I just couldnt help but laugh at the sheer ridiculousness of some twenty-something eminem-lookalike who wouldnt know a dime-edge from a dime-bag talking trash about the likes of mike paul. Lox-- seriously man, being "someone" in a gigantic state lightly filled with crap limestone....wow. you should be on espn 2. put down the mountain dew and check the facts before you embarass yourself even further.
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lox
May 6, 2003, 8:52 PM
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Damn.
It's amazing just how far down your throat you can actually put your foot right !?!?!
Point one: being a great climber doesn't disqualify you from criticism, especially when you act like a total choad.
Point two: your assessment of the limestone boldering in Central Texas reveals the true level of your intelligence.
Everyone knows the REAL assessment of one's boldering prowess comes form what they have done at Hueco...
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camhead
May 6, 2003, 9:03 PM
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time fer me to spray, LOx.
three days until I am getting out of the hot'n'humid steep limestone of Texas, and climbing cracks all over 'da west. hasta la byebye, suckahs...
Texas is awesome for wintertime power building. other than that. blechhhh.
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fieldmouse
May 7, 2003, 1:28 AM
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In reply to: Point one: being a great climber doesn't disqualify you from criticism, especially when you act like a total choad
face it dude, the more you go on and on and contradict yourself the less people are going to want to hear it. go outside. I have been to central texas and left 15 minutes after arriving at each one of your "areas". Get a life. P.s. I realize that by responding to your post I am thereby almost as much of a geek as you are (give me some time, maybe I too can reach your magnificent 1800 posts) One last thing- If you hate it so much when others challenge your obviously divine authority, then start putting up actual problems on actual boulders and then relating that information, instead of your usual pie-mouthed slander. It seems that the only hope for you would be an extended, state-wide power outtage.
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bvb
May 7, 2003, 1:57 AM
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voila lox!
le fieldmouse j'accuse!
response, por non!
(btw, for all you clueless losers who still don't get it, the best and hardest crack bouldering is at woodson, where the mighty chrissy griffoid (aka verveoid) got SHUT DOWN in 1986 on a second-string bench-warmer 5.11a kevin powell problem, and the hardest routes from 18 years ago have yet to be graded OR repeated...think yer manly?? got news for ya, the "12+'s" are actually V8 and they're the WARM UPS. Why do you think no one climbs there anymore? Today's surplus of fragile egos and tender self-images, born and bred in gyms and sport routes, cannot even BEGIN to handle the torque (pun intended....)) Woodson is as burly as it gets. Not for the faint of heart. Possibly has the highest ratio of unrepeated 70's and 80's problems in the US...Woodward, K. Powell, D. Leichtfuss, Eppi, Mike Paul...all have left their signature. So come on down. Feelin' lucky.....punk?
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camhead
May 7, 2003, 2:31 AM
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word.
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fieldmouse
May 7, 2003, 2:49 AM
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well said bob...this is the same reason nobody goes to the MEC.
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lox
May 7, 2003, 3:33 AM
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It's also the same reason noone comes and visits central texas... lol.
It's too hot and burly for the average climber.
Just look at poor fieldmouse, SHUT DOWN AND BUTTHURT IN 15 MINUTES after hitting EVERY AREA ?!?!
lol.
Onion Creek alone is YEARS worth of classic, steep gymnastic boldering.
Don't EVEN hate on Central Texas.
Mike Paul might have climbed hard 20 years ago, and all the cali chuffers might be avoiding Woodsom because they are weakmos... but don't think that ethic extends to those of us in Texas.
Lets not forget, every time this pissing contest is opened... Mike Paul comes across on the internet as fucking RETARD.
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lox
May 7, 2003, 3:36 AM
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In reply to: Just because people might be my friends is actually a good thing Lox! It doesn't look like you're getting a lot of support here Dude! I was glad to have climbed when there wasn't a lot of Joke Retards like you lurking around! And yes quote me anytime Jerkoff, Your Spraying, my Spraying, what's the dif? You must just have a small penis and drive a big truck, riflerack and all that! Wanker!
OH MY GOD.
HE CLIMBED HARD WHEN I WAS IN DIAPERS.
HE AUTOMATICALLY DESERVES ME RESPECT.
lol.
Signed,
The Joke Retard.
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lox
May 7, 2003, 3:37 AM
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Actually, I drive a Camry.
lol.
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curt
May 7, 2003, 3:49 AM
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Lox,
Somewhere a couple of pages back I promised not to respond negatively to your BS in this thread. So, I will keep things civil. Your statement:
In reply to: Mike Paul might have climbed hard 20 years ago, and all the cali chuffers might be avoiding Woodsom because they are weakmos... but don't think that ethic extends to those of us in Texas.
Here is the main point. As to MP being a jerk on the internet--as you claim, a cursory glance back through this thread will reveal that he only became inflamatory after your totally unwarranted attacks.
Curt
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pbjosh
May 7, 2003, 4:04 AM
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I can fully attest to Woodson's burliness. And luckily things are only getting downrated, heh heh heh. Recently I've heard people call Uncertainty Principle and Seminar Wall 5.11b. Yeah, Seminar Wall at 11b, tell that to the couple of 5'3" women I've seen do it.
Hear My Train Acomin' at is fscking sick at 5.11c. Steep (10-20 degrees overhanging start move) tips jams, bad feet, and most people use a mono jam to start it. If that's not enough for you Mother Superior is a full body workout. Then you can get on some really burly stuff like Eppi's OW, Hellraiser, Undertow, Vice Principal's Office and more... :)
Although for a burly crack boulder problem I still think Big Bob's Big Wedge takes the cake. I think calling it V5 might be fair. The topout probably is 5.12 OW. Maybe it's only 11+ but I sure as sh!t can't tell the difference. Gross. I don't think any of the moves on Crack House were as hard as the topout of Big Bob's...
josh
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bvb
May 7, 2003, 5:09 AM
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Lox, MP hasn't logged on in weeks, he don't even know you, and you are so far off his radar screen you may as well be on the moon. So quit draggin' Vawto into this as a red herring. Defend yourself, big guy! Quit trying to change the subject! Bouldering.com represent! If you're gonna play the guttersnipe, then by God do Joe Strummer's memory proud and DO NOT back down.
Yeah pbjosh, big bob's big wedge is shorter than crackhouse, which is all about enduro. But at V5 b.b.b.w. has gotta be the BUUUUUURliest V5 roof crack in Cali...I was never much into projecting stuff way back then -- if I couldn't get 'em in a few quick tries I was on the the next prob...and the Wedgie gave me a spankin' I'll never forget. Only tried it four or five times and got stymied every time trying to invert at the lip. Too scared to really go for it. Spotters and a pad woulda been nice.
Lox: Batter Up!
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lox
May 7, 2003, 7:45 AM
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In reply to: Defend yourself, big guy!
Against what ?
All I said was that MP acts like a choad on the internet. This is how he COMES ACROSS.
Certainly, I come across the same way, but that is cold and calculated.
So what do I have to defend myself against ?
HOW HARD I CLIMB ?!?! lol.
I fucking climb. I climb a lot. And pretty hard too... I don't really feel the need to SPRAY to defend myself, as MP does.
And the fact that he doesn't have a broadband pipeline into his home further solidifies my assertion that he is not internet saavy, no matter what first ascents he put up.
I really don't feel the need to post my personal achievements in a bragging manner to an internet messageboard... which is precisely the thing that I made fun of MP about in the first place.. which put a wad of panty into the 35-and-over club's collective ass...
Unwarranted attacks ?!?!
Go back to MP's first post.
N00b shit.
lol.
You guys are just trying to goad me into posting a ticklist so you can berte it because the problems are too new to have a YDS rating.
Seriously, at this point, the only thing that would leave me with one shred of respect ofr your whole fucking ancient-ass strokefest scene would be the revelation and PROOF that MP was the First ascentionist of the Power of Silence at Hueco.
Other than that, he's a fucking choad who is a GOD to a bunch of 35 + year olds on the internet who have nothing better ot do than judge people's climbing ability without having climbed with them.
So pony up, y'all... WHAT HAS HE SENT AT HUECO ?!?!?
Or take your bullshit to the trad forum, where it belongs, FATASSES.
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roclimb
May 7, 2003, 4:01 PM
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the milkstones in Pennsylvania have the bachar cracker of PA.
~RH
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mreardon
May 7, 2003, 4:03 PM
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Fishboy claims his arguments online are cold and calculated? This coming from the boy who still hasn't proven himself to climb anything harder than a VB four feet off the ground on a toprrope by the one person here he did visit?
Oh wait, that's right. There was one other picture where he looks like he might be one foot off the ground and stepped up to the jug somewhere supposedly undisclosed in Texas. Or is he still in New York working phones as a telemarketer (lot's of limestone climbing in Central Park I hear)?
In any case, fishboy is nothing more than a lying little boy who can't remove himself from his trailer-park momma's teat long enough to go outside. Therefore he sprays on every bb he can find with his pants off thinking he's such a man while looking at his little willy bobbling around. Step up punk or STFU. You ain't nothin' but a whiny little spraylord who's too cowardly to back his own posts. Fishboy = Troll and not even worth any more responses.
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curt
May 7, 2003, 4:25 PM
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Yes Lox, it was an unwarranted attack on your part. You say to look at MP's first post--OK let's do that.
In reply to: Yeah, Woodson is Super Cool! But after I did the FA of "Pigpen" in Josh I thought that was it, then I did the 2nd (right after Mike Lechlinski did the FA) of "Big Bob's Big Wedge" and so on. I also really dug "Bachar Cracker" in the Valley, There was an Funky ol' shot of me on that one in Rolling Stone Mag. in '82 or so. Overall though it would have to be Woodson.
I recall you starting a thread about doing the "Gill Egg" problem in the Gunks--and how great it was. Nobody flamed you in that thread for spraying. I fail to see the difference between your "Gill Egg" thread and MP's supposed bragging about himself. A little self consistency on your part would be nice.
Curt
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atg200
May 7, 2003, 4:54 PM
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i really enjoyed mike paul's post that lox thought was spraying. i suppose one man's spraying is another's history. take it easy on lox though - there is no history on the choss in central texas, so he is trying to create his own legend now using the net. very, very progressive stuff.
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mreardon
May 7, 2003, 5:32 PM
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Curt,
You're a good man for trying to work with fishboy, but he's only going to continue bashing for no reason other than to create an argument. The internet and this BB are the only things he has going in his life. I've seen trolls like him before and he's merely a reactionary moron who yells in the hopes that he's heard. It doesn't matter what the topic or argument is, he just has to get a response. Just look at his post count v. how many posts did not involve being a troll. In all the time he's been here (including all the other names he's used/using) I've only seen a couple threads that he actually contributed to. The rest of the time is merely masturbation of the keyboard.
Save your fingers for cranking at Suicide and Yose!
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lox
May 7, 2003, 8:16 PM
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In regards to my spray versus MP's history... read the post:
I DID THIS. I GOT TEH SECOND ASCENT. I WAS IN A MAGAZINE !!!!111
Not just, I remember doing these three hella classic cracks back in the seventies... THAT would be humble. You think it's history ?!?! No. What Jgill writes up is history. MP's tone and further posts distinguish him as a technonaive lout.
My post wasn't spray. The Gill Egg is v3 for chrissakes. However, it was a milestone in it's day and remains one HELL of a classic dyno. When I hit the top from the crimps, I thought of how good it would feel to be the first person to ever have done that. So I wrote Jgill a note of appreciation for his vision... not a vehicle for self AGGRANDIZEMENT.
In regards to the misguided assumptions concerning my climbing ability and what I have going on in my life:
lol.
The whole reason that one might be able to draw the conclusion that I don't climb hard things is because I don't spray about them.
If you feel justified in thinking this, it is quite allright by me.
The fact of the matter is I have climbed difficult classic bolder problems in many different states. Hell... in the last 12 months I have been to The Ice Pond, Governors Stables, Mount Gretna, Little Cottonwood Canyon, Joe's Valley, Horespens 40, HUECO and of course... all across Central Texas.
At this exact moment, I am about to head to pace bend and start getting the headwall of the Maugmacita wall dialed. In midJuly, when the lake has dropped 20 feet, exposing the 45 degree climbing below the headwall, the moves on the headwall will seem so much easier if dialed in.
And then tonight, nitegolf.
And a sidenote to atg200 regarding the history (or lack thereof) of Central Texas "choss." Ever use the term "beta" ? There was this guy named Jack Mileski... every area has history, you twat. Duh. Ever heard of the Potrero Chico ?!? Where do you think the guys who developed that place lived when they weren't in mexico ?!? Oh, Central Texas has left teh largest mark on North American sportclimbing... lol.
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camhead
May 7, 2003, 8:31 PM
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I've got to back Lox up on the history bit.
CenTex has a long history of active and fricking hard climbing. Not just bouldering; the previously mentioned long routes in Potrero, as well as some visionary and just plain scary trad at local Enchanted Rock and the Wichitas about 6 hours to the north of Austin. If you want to know what happens when you give a hella strong and ballsy boulderer some trad gear, go check out some of the 5.12 granite testpieces at Erock. Oh, and the Wichitas... ever hear of Duane Raleigh? To quote the guy on his home turf in Oklahoma, "there are three pitch face routes that Peter Croft believes are unbelievable." (r&i 121, p48). believe it.
bottom line, for all the shit I talk on the state, there is some good steep climbing, and it will make you fricking strong.
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atg200
May 7, 2003, 8:35 PM
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yeehaw, the troll worked! i even caught camhead - lox is too easy to be proud of.
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camhead
May 7, 2003, 8:40 PM
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dammit andrew. just for that, I'm going to purposefully clusterfuck my rope management when we climb in colorado.
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lox
May 7, 2003, 8:49 PM
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lol.
I did create a legend online.
His name is Doosh...
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curt
May 7, 2003, 9:02 PM
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Yes, there is certainly nothing in Colorado, California or the Gunks that can measure up to the quality climbing to be found in central Texas.
Curt
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lox
May 7, 2003, 9:05 PM
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Have you ever been here ?
The boldering is quite a bit steeper and mre dynamic than the places you mentioned.
Throw in Hueco Tanks and El Potrero Chico and I am just a 10 hour drive from several lifetimes worth of world class climbing.
Seriously. Don't talk shit about Central Texas.
You can get off a plane and have your ass handed to you at McKinney Falls less than an hour later.
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lox
May 7, 2003, 9:07 PM
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OH CRAP.
I forgot to add The GUnks to the list of places I have been this year....
D'oh.
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atg200
May 7, 2003, 9:11 PM
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nah, we believe you that central texas climbing is ok, after you scrub off the choss and get rid of the vegetation with a flamethrower. its just unfortunate that the central texas climbing is in central texas, and therefore near texans.
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vm3
May 7, 2003, 11:04 PM
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Easy guys...
To quote Alex Lowe - "The best climber is the one that's having the most fun."
Abide by that. If someone wants to tell you the routes they've done, fine. If they don't, that's fine too. It's not like anyone is telling you how to climb.
Go get on the rock and don't worry about it...
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curt
May 7, 2003, 11:11 PM
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Just curious.
In reply to: The boldering is quite a bit steeper and mre dynamic than the places you mentioned.
How are the full body length aerials on Speed-of-Light and Saturday Night Live (in California) and also on Fatted Calf (in Colorado) not so dynamic?
Curt
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fieldmouse
May 8, 2003, 2:53 AM
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In reply to: Just look at poor fieldmouse, SHUT DOWN AND BUTTHURT IN 15 MINUTES after hitting EVERY AREA ?!?!
I was more butthurt that I drove 300 miles out of my way just to say "people actually boulder on this?" btw--your v9s are easier than just about any 6 I have ever done. I'd like to take this opportunity to let lox know that I personally flashed or did within 5 minutes the 4 hardest problems at mckinney. hows that for spray bliz-nitch. texas--where the ratings are as soft as the rock is sharp and dirty. also, nobody goes to your little piece of ass areas because they contain what is quite possibly the worst limestone in the entire world, not because they are too "burly". I will say that enchanted rock is great, but one area does not a state make.
one last thing, If there are any young punk-asses out there chasing numbers, allow me to suggest lox's smattering of piles in the middle of the most god-forsaken armpit , where you can tick double-digits all day long, even if you arent really sure what bouldering is.
big ups to clay reagan, though (and hueco)
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fieldmouse
May 8, 2003, 3:31 AM
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as for the best crack bouldering? My vote for the single best problem whose main theme is crack-related--the roof-crack at west elden, flagstaff.
wicked hard and aesthetic. I believe this single problem is just as good as anything at woodson or josh and way less painful. try it next time you are out there..its not as hard as it looks!
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verbal
May 8, 2003, 5:45 AM
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Not sure if any one mentioned this, becuase I don't feel like reading the first 12,000 pages of posts, but Symbol Man a 50 foot off-width roof crack and When Doves Cry a 30 foot off-width roof crack in the Red River Gorge are really good andt they are both fairly close to each other.
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lox
May 8, 2003, 8:32 AM
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In reply to: big ups to clay reagan, though (and hueco)
lol.
You are such a poser it's not even funny.
How the fuck do you think that gentleman gat as strong as he is ?!?!
You are such a twofaced shitheadm it's not even funny.
Open your mouth... TexasBLIMP ate mexican food and needs a place to REPRAZENT.
In other news... which 4 problems did you do at McKinney Falls and call "our hardest" ?
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bvb
May 8, 2003, 3:29 PM
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lox, nobody who is in the know is contending that there is not some steep and swank topqual limestone to be found in the hill country. hell, i amost moved there three years ago.
i thnk what curt is pointing out in his post a couple pages back is that there is even better climbing elsewhere -- like california or colorado, (or font for that matter), and so on. Just as most can agree there is great surfing in San Diego, I don't think anyone will attempt to argue that the north shore of oahu, in a good year, ain't a whole lot more "manly". Centex Good. Colorado Better Cali Best.
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fieldmouse
May 8, 2003, 6:06 PM
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In reply to: You are such a poser it's not even funny
again when refferring to posers I will point out lox's 2000 posts. I would like to think that during the creation of at least 1500 of those posts I was outside, climbing. enough said. boulderers lounging in macho poses. I would also like to point out that I was doing laps on your precious double boiler when you were still beating off to scrambled porn. Watch who you call a poser.
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lox
May 8, 2003, 6:20 PM
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In reply to: Centex Good. Colorado Better Cali Best.
Well, obviously you aren't listing these states based on the quality of their BBQ... lol.
I think that your good, better, best scale depends heavily on your criteria for enjoying a place.
My scale is measured by steep, beta-intense movement, core tension and variety of feature. In these three areas, Central Texas limestone CRUSHES anything you have in either of those places, with the possible exception of the Underground and Rocky Mountain National Park.
And the fact that both of those places listed are hella remote shows the DISTANCE that bolderers (true boldereres) will go to find steep quality stone.
Having boldered a bit on the front range, in the high country and in Bishop/Tahoe area, I honestly feel that no place in the country has more of a high concentration of steep problems than Central Texas... with the possible exception of Asheville NC.
I guess it's a mot point though... the fact that Biship (HAHAHAHHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHa... soft-graded CHOSSPILE that it is...) is the be all end all of boldering keeps the chuffers in Cali, where they belong.... leaving God'stone for the truly blessed.
And the year round climbing season is gneiss...
So... to sum up. If you really want to pull on lame, overhyped choss... visit California. If you want to be stomped into the ground by stone which redefines steep for you...
bvb. I think you need to go take a couple laps on gunsmoke. That should make you feel like a badass... YEAH !
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fieldmouse
May 8, 2003, 6:22 PM
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if you really break it down, centex contains alot of limestone, and much of it is good. (or at the very least, overhanging) My apologies to lox, who obviously cares about his little areas enough to constantly log on to this site to defend them. in all seriousness, lox, I truly enjoyed the short time I spent at rogers and mckinney. I did not leave after 15 minutes, as stated before. Also, I was merely pointing out what a nice guy clayton is, not how good of climber he is. (Was) as for the problems that were sent at Mckinney by me and several others from flag, we showed up, met some guy named jeff, who then showed us what the hardest problems were at the time, most of which I would estimate at 9 or 10. beyond that, I have no idea. dont get so upset-jeez.
you never compared centex to flag...hmmm
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lox
May 8, 2003, 6:32 PM
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In reply to: I would also like to point out that I was doing laps on your precious double boiler when you were still beating off to scrambled porn. Watch who you call a poser.
Lord... please keep me from turning into one of these bitter old men of climbing... it is NOT an attractive quality in a human being.
VOICE FROM ABOVE :
NOTHING TO WORRY ABOUT, MY SON... YOU ARE FROM TEXAS.
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lox
May 8, 2003, 6:34 PM
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In reply to: met some guy named jeff, who then showed us what the hardest problems were at the time, most of which I would estimate at 9 or 10. beyond that, I have no idea.
What year was that ?
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lox
May 8, 2003, 6:40 PM
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Ok... comparision between Central TExas and Flagstaff.
Flagstaff is ALSO an epicenter of good climbing. The boldering there is extensive and good. Some is Roger' Park type limestone... others is Roger's Park type sandstone... lol. And there's the Draw, which is unique and beautiful movement.
Basically... I'm going to move there someday cuz the limestone is abundant and the scene is good.
I'll move back here for sure... but I would like to spend a little time in Flag.
3footerbreakfast4lyfe.
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lox
May 8, 2003, 6:40 PM
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In reply to: In reply to: met some guy named jeff, who then showed us what the hardest problems were at the time, most of which I would estimate at 9 or 10. beyond that, I have no idea. What year was that ?
Also, describe the problems you sent (or tried to send) and I'll get a photo of it for you.
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fieldmouse
May 8, 2003, 6:47 PM
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this was last year. Although the memory is somewhat hazy, one of the problems we did was in the largest, most obvious roof. The other three we were shown were on this wall that I remember being called spaceman wall or something. I will assert now, after the fact, that all of these problems were very good.
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fieldmouse
May 8, 2003, 6:56 PM
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In reply to: Some is Roger' Park type limestone yeahhh thats kind of like saying "luciano pavarotti's success has been widely attributed to joey from new kids on the block". |
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lox
May 8, 2003, 7:00 PM
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No... I just mean it's the same sort of tall cliffband.
Have you been to Cherry ?
Opposed to the short, roof formations of the draw.
Or the odd jumble of bolders and cliffs that is Buffalo.
I really like Flagstaff climbing....
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curt
May 8, 2003, 7:04 PM
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In reply to: No... I just mean it's the same sort of tall cliffband. Have you been to Cherry ? Opposed to the short, roof formations of the draw. Or the odd jumble of bolders and cliffs that is Buffalo. I really like Flagstaff climbing....
Don't forget Gloria's at the base of Mt. Eldon.
Curt
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lox
May 8, 2003, 7:08 PM
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http://www.0friction.com/...friction_pic_295.jpg
The Spacefarm.
The only standalone v9 on the wall is at the very end, out the steepest part of the prow. It goes out that prow on 4 blemishes in the stone... you begin with a 3 foot toss to a sinker mono.
You prolly did some of the stuff in the middle, do mono sitstarts ring a bell ?
Kinda unsure about the main obvious cave...
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lox
May 8, 2003, 7:09 PM
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In reply to: Don't forget Gloria's at the base of Mt. Eldon.
SHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHH!!!!!!!!!1111
wtf.
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fieldmouse
May 8, 2003, 7:09 PM
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yeah, we have been pretty active at cherry lately. put some problems up south of the bridge, most of which are pretty good, i guess. The new frontier is closer to page, however--imagine a 15 foot tall, quarter mile long band of 45 degree kaibab limestone with perfect landings throughout and a 90 minute approach to keep the fluff out...just the tip of the iceberg.
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lox
May 8, 2003, 7:14 PM
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This makes semptember look quite a bit more appealing.
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bvb
May 8, 2003, 7:14 PM
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uhhhh, i dunno lox, gunsmokes fun if yer looking for somthing to warm up on, but truth to tell after 1,000 laps on the thing over the decades i got bored with it...have not done it in years. it's a classic period peice, but it's a bit too low angle for my tastes.
when you move to flag, lox, if you shower and shave and try to behave we'll take you up to a little spot in the mountains in southern utah where the REAL hards are lurking...you want steep pockets? this is the area where Moffat sprung a tendon pulling through a monster roof on a mono, Sandahl blew a tendon pully on his second problem of his first trip there, and so on. there's a DeCaria problem there that is so high-torque it's been known to tear abs right off the ribcage. so if you like "core tension" problems, you'll enjoy. average problem height starts at 20 feet and goes up from there.
so you'll be moving here....when? maybe i don't climb so good anymore, but i'll drink you under the table without breaking a sweat. i've got my own monogrammed VIP seat at the Monte V.
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lox
May 8, 2003, 7:18 PM
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Sometime soon.
And I'm already pretty hooked up on the SoUtah tip, but thanks.
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camhead
May 8, 2003, 7:21 PM
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when you gonna be in SoUt, Lox?
And Bob, I'll probably be doing the solitary unabomber thing in your secret place as soon as money for driving runs out and the desert is too hot.. You going to be in Torrey this summer at all?
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fieldmouse
May 8, 2003, 7:22 PM
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thanks for the pic, it brought back some otherwise lost memories. The problem on the prow was the first thing we checked out. My friend dan pulled his middle a2 on the thing, ending his trip. there were sundry other problems we did, the most notable of which was certainly the prow.
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atg200
May 8, 2003, 7:30 PM
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rocky mountain national park ain't exactly remote.
for remote super high quality adventure bouldering on huge conglomerate boulders, check out the sangre de cristo range. its a pretty stout 8-10 mile uphill hike to get to the best of the boulders, but i'll give you directions.
In reply to: Well, obviously you aren't listing these states based on the quality of their BBQ... lol.
here on the front range, rather than ruining our meat by dousing it in sauce or any of that garbage, we go shoot an elk and grill it up fresh. word.
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lox
May 8, 2003, 7:43 PM
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The boldering at RMNP is remote... it's up at Chaos Canyon.
So yeah, while the park itself is quite close... the good boldering is a couple hour uphill walk.
As far as boldering is concerned, that's remote.
And I had elk steak at teh Buckhorn in Denver... it was ok. A bit tough and gamey...
Plus, Willie Nelson could kick John Denver's ass six ways to Sunday.
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fieldmouse
May 8, 2003, 7:47 PM
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meat is murder.
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bvb
May 8, 2003, 7:50 PM
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gotta go with fishboy on that one, gang. texas produced zz top, willie nelson, michelle shocked, stevie ray vaughn, buddy holly, and back in the 20's and 30's, armies of anonymous blues geniusus that invented music as we know it today. colorado gave us....john denver.
thank god this is a bouldering forum.
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gretchino
May 8, 2003, 9:02 PM
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I'll second the few people that talked about Mt Woodson in San Diego...bring tape...lot's of tape!
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fieldmouse
May 8, 2003, 9:28 PM
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texas also gave us the dixie chicks, dokken, toby keith, billy ray cyrus, rahowa, half of 98 degrees, that guy from american idol, etc... Austin has always been a beacon in the sea of white-bread, homogenous 107.5 garbage that comes out of texas, however. nxnw!
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curt
May 8, 2003, 11:06 PM
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In reply to: Plus, Willie Nelson could kick John Denver's ass six ways to Sunday.
Curt
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tripperjm
May 9, 2003, 9:29 PM
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In reply to: In reply to: Plus, Willie Nelson could kick John Denver's ass six ways to Sunday. Probably so since JD is dead--not a very sporting contest really. Curt |
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bigdan
May 15, 2003, 7:21 AM
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There's some decent crack bouldering up at Ragged Edge at 12,000 feet on Pike's Peak.
I may have already mentioned this earlier in this thread, too lazy to check, but Ute Pass near Colorado Springs has some excellent cracks as well. Crack in the Woods is great.
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studs
May 5, 2004, 11:07 AM
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I´ll vouch for MP and BVB.They have walked the walk and talked the talk .But the best crack bouldering is inMadrid. I'll give anyone a tour any time and buy the beer.
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studs
May 6, 2004, 10:29 AM
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Pretty clear they dont have any idea how to climb cracks.Thanks for the link.
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collegekid
May 19, 2004, 5:42 AM
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Woodson5.11+4lyfe!
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yanqui
Apr 6, 2010, 3:57 PM
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There's actually some pretty good (roof) crack problems around here, although they tend to be isolated from each other. Here's one (for example) that's probably around V6 (and still unsent);
However don't rush here to get the first send, 'cause Ciccone got interested and will be getting it (for sure), next time he visits. However, I do have another (considerably) harder and very esthetic thin-hands roof crack problem that needs sending and since Ciccone will be busy on some other projects, it could stay open (and unsent) for quite awhile. Any takers?
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