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maria
Aug 27, 2003, 3:14 PM
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whats your favorite trad climbing destination in the US? and why?
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maculated
Aug 27, 2003, 3:21 PM
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I would have to say Red Rocks. Maybe I haven't found as exciting moves in J Tree and Yosemite, but Red Rocks' features were incredible, the rock was solid, and the climbing was balancy from what I found. All my favorite stuff in the world.
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the_pirate
Aug 27, 2003, 3:30 PM
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Seneca Rocks WV. Awesome rock, good pro, fabulous exposure, great people.
The Gunks Awesome rock, challenging pro, fabulous exposure, great people (mid week that is).
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tradmanclimbs
Aug 27, 2003, 3:32 PM
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Red rocks is awsome for long moderate trad. pretty cool to tear up vegas after a couple of dayze climbing in the desert. Seneca WV is my favorite for the awsome exposure, beautifull setting cool camping scene, friendly people and again lots of multi pitch moderates. the gunks rock on with thouands of stellar lines at all grades, free camping but a bit of a hectic scene as so close to the city. You will get robbed there if you stay long enough. Keene valley in the daks rules for its serinity as well as the great climbing and swimming. Cathedral rules with short approach and stellar granit. What can I say?It's all good 8)
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holmeslovesguinness
Aug 27, 2003, 3:37 PM
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Out of the places I have been so far my favorites are Lovers Leap, CA and Lumpy Ridge, CO. Both are great places for beginning to intermediate trad leaders, both are in beautiful mountain settings.
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bandycoot
Aug 27, 2003, 3:43 PM
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Home stomping ground: Tahquitz and Joshua Tree
Best overall trad I've done: Needles (I'm headed there this weekend!)
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crankenstein
Aug 27, 2003, 4:02 PM
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I'll second the recommendations for Lover's Leap and Lumpy Ridge. Lover's Leap has some of the most incredible features that I have climbed and Lumpy Ridge is just a great all around trad area!
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pbjosh
Aug 27, 2003, 4:25 PM
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Overall favorite: Indian Creek
Where I spend the most time: Joshua Tree
Most inspiring/awesome: Needles
Must casual: Red Rocks
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rrrADAM
Aug 27, 2003, 4:27 PM
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As I replied in the many other threads asking this same question:
The Gunks, hands down the best. And I have climbed in Eldo, Devil's Tower, Yosemite / Tuolumne, Tahquitz / Suicide, and Jtree among many other places.
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maria
Aug 27, 2003, 4:32 PM
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i'm sorry, if there already were topics like this, I couldn't find any. I only saw questions about a specific area, or favorite routes.
btw, my favorite is the gunks as well, because of the variety of the climbs.
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rrrADAM
Aug 27, 2003, 4:34 PM
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No worries. :wink:
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camhead
Aug 27, 2003, 5:34 PM
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Indian Creek. Runners up: Yosemite, Paradise Forks, Turkey Rocks.
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t-dog
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Aug 27, 2003, 5:46 PM
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Taquitz has a lot of really nice cracks.
J-Tree is the bomb, but it bites a lot
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telluryan
Aug 27, 2003, 5:56 PM
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ophir wall, CO
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petsfed
Aug 27, 2003, 6:19 PM
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Eldo, wish I could go climbing more often when I visit my parents.
Edit:
Upon further consideration, Indian Creek. Hell, the whole Moab area (yes, even Wall Street).
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pico23
Aug 27, 2003, 6:47 PM
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Daks...Cause it's spread out over 6 million acres and I can lose the crowds. I've been known to hike 6 miles or more to climb a 60 foot 5.5 so leaving crowds behind is a important thing to me. Of course if you want crowds Keene Valley or Cascade Pass is the place to go. Beer Walls and other cliffs nearby are generally crowded on the weekends. The rest of the park has cliffs scattered here and there and does a good job dispersing climbers.
Other then that there isn't anyplace else in the east quite as diverse. I've been on classics without a chalk mark on any of the pitches. Bolts, trad, aid, friction slabs, overhanging, roofs, climbed rarely and climbed often classic climbs, it's all there. I can climb literal roadside (i'm talking the car is not more then 500 feet from the climb), then do strenuous but short approach just a 1/2 mile in, and then do a remote grade III 6 miles in, and everything in between, all in a 50 mile radius. But that isn't the extent of the climbing. Climbing starts as far south as exit 23 on the Northway and goes all the way to Azure Mountain in the north western portion of the park.
That said if you consider the Gunks your ideal climbing venue you might not be too thrilled with the Daks. A lot of people have trouble making the transition from smooth gravel roads and well marked and described routes to basically not only having to find the cliff but then having to find the approach to the climb. And the guide book is vague at best. sometimes a 3 pitch climb is described in a sentence or two. So if you think the Swain book is vague you'd probably hate the Mellor book. And while the rock in the Daks is very good and really grippy you will find many more lose holds and death blocks then you would find at the Gunks. And with limited (generally no) cell phone coverage you are on your own.
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the_pirate
Aug 27, 2003, 6:52 PM
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In reply to: the guide book is vague at best. sometimes a 3 pitch climb is described in a sentence or two. So if you think the Swain book is vague you'd probably hate the Mellor book. And while the rock in the Daks is very good and really grippy you will find many more lose holds and death blocks then you would find at the Gunks. And with limited (generally no) cell phone coverage you are on your own.
hmmm...... Me thinks we just found a new place to try out.....
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curt
Aug 27, 2003, 6:52 PM
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In reply to: As I replied in the many other threads asking this same question: The Gunks, hands down the best. And I have climbed in Eldo, Devil's Tower, Yosemite / Tuolumne, Tahquitz / Suicide, and Jtree among many other places.
I have been climbing many other places as well over the last 25 or so years. I agree that no place comes close to the Gunks.
Curt
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climber1
Aug 28, 2003, 5:36 AM
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Jtree
Red Rocks
Sierra
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texplorer
Sep 9, 2003, 8:12 PM
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Yosemite is Mecca!
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rockmx
Sep 9, 2003, 8:37 PM
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J. Tree
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alpnclmbr1
Sep 9, 2003, 9:32 PM
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#1 The Needles for atmosphere
Tuolumne for beauty
Joshua tree for time
paradise forks for uniqueness
Indian creek
cochise stronghold
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crackaddict
Sep 9, 2003, 9:53 PM
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In reply to: Indian Creek. Runners up: Yosemite, Paradise Forks, Turkey Rocks.
Ditto! Except I have never been to Turkey rocks. But I will take camheads word on it since he and I like most the same areas.
I would also add Red Rocks, Cochise Stronghold, and, Granite Mountain to my list.
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vegastradguy
Sep 9, 2003, 10:28 PM
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i love Red Rocks for sure for long, moderate multipitches.
havent been to that many places, but those i have been to were alot of fun. Yosemite is stellar for longer, more challenging routes, Josh is well, Josh. :) and Mt. Lemmon was a good deal of fun, and i'm looking forward to getting back down there.
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imaclima
Sep 9, 2003, 10:31 PM
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In reply to: The Gunks, hands down the best.
Couldnt have said it better myself
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drkodos
Sep 9, 2003, 10:36 PM
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Gunks
Joshua Tree
New River Gorge
Paradise Forks
Devil's Tower
Needles, CA
Needles, SD
Notice that although I live in the Vegas area, I have not included Red Rock.
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herm
Sep 10, 2003, 12:35 AM
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It ain't the whole show, but Lover's leap has some of the best 3 pitch moderates anywhere. Not really a beginner area, though, except for a few things.
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rock_diva
Sep 10, 2003, 6:41 AM
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The Superstition Mountains!! :D
Naw, although I like climbing in the Supes (one of the very few who like climbing there) I'd have to say my favorite trad areas are Indian Creek and Yosemite.
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herm
Sep 10, 2003, 2:21 PM
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Josh has the best roll out of camp and climb scene of anywhere.
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norskagent
Sep 10, 2003, 2:26 PM
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If you are in the southeast, you gotta include Moore's Wall, N.C. on the trad list, esp. in the Fall...
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piton
Sep 10, 2003, 5:14 PM
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1. Yosemite
2. Vedauwoo
3. Seneca
4. Gunks
5. Red Rocks
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crazygirl
Sep 10, 2003, 5:23 PM
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why do you guys like Red Rocks for trad? seems like popular routes are very very crowded
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drkodos
Sep 10, 2003, 5:35 PM
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In reply to: why do you guys like Red Rocks for trad? seems like popular routes are very very crowded
The best routes ain't neccessarily the most popular...
Never forget: The masses are a$$es.
Any given day during the season, 90% of the climbers are on the same dozen or so classic routes. People don't do a good job of straying off the beaten path, and that's ok with most of us locals..... 8)
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floridaputz
Sep 10, 2003, 6:39 PM
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BEST TRAD
TUOLUMNE, TAQUITZ CA, RED ROCKS NV, ELDORADO CO, DEVILS TOWER, TETONS WY,WHITESIDE MT NC, LOOKING GLASS NC, SENECA, WHITEHOURSE-CATHEDRAL NH, GUNKS NY. THAT OUGHT TO TAKE CARE OF YOU FOR A WHILE !
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hasbeen
Sep 10, 2003, 6:49 PM
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True enough, the best routes often are not crowded. For example, everyone does Cat in the Hat, but Olive Oil is a million times better. Tunnel Vision doesn't come close to having the best tunnel on that wall, but it's the only route that ever seems to get on. Levitation 29 is, well, pretty darn good but something like Cloud Tower is better and never seems to have any traffic. And there is always a line on Prince of Darkness, but I think it's probably the worst route on that wall.
Anyway, lines on a few popular routes seems to be the norm at most trad areas. At Lover's Leap, there are often 10 parties all in line for the same two routes, while there are terrific routes all over the cliff.
Aren't trad climbers supposed to be adventurous?
And how come nobody mentioned Cochise?
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vegastradguy
Sep 10, 2003, 7:23 PM
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RR has some stellar routes out there that most people never even think about climbing, and like drkodos said, that's fine with us. Nothing finer than having the entire wall to yourself.
Although, strangely enough, last Sat, there wasnt a single party on Tunnel Vision, belive it or not...we were on Group Therapy that day (Healy's was still a little damp from the rains), and enjoying the quiet.
Don't avoid RR just because you think all the good routes are crowded. Most of the crowded routes, while they offer good climbing, are certainly not the best of RR...the best, that I've found anyway, is the stuff that no one ever thinks about climbing....
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thegreytradster
Sep 10, 2003, 10:19 PM
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In reply to: why do you guys like Red Rocks for trad? seems like popular routes are very very crowded
Get the old Uroste, (Red) book. There's plenty of great stuff up those canyons that never gets done.
1. Red Rocks. The only place you can climb hard for a week and come home without a scratch. The most skin frendly rock texture anywhere and great long, steep climbs.
Negative, The city is geting to close!
2. Needles. Beautiful splitter cracks
3. Tahquitz. Sentimental favorite. Been climbing there for 33 years, still look forward to every weekend. Great lines, worth doing over and over.
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the_crawler
Sep 10, 2003, 10:35 PM
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T-wall? ANYONE!!!!!!! Oh no thats right!
The Glass is great,
AND Whitesides N.C. is not really trad. It's extremely run out sport with some gear placements here and there.
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coclimber26
Oct 3, 2003, 2:01 AM
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I'm voting for Eldorado with the south platte (Eleven mile, turkey rocks) a close second.
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dlintz
Oct 3, 2003, 3:07 AM
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Me loves the Eldo...so many routes...
doh...so many routes out of my league.
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cragmasterp
Oct 3, 2003, 3:08 AM
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[quote: Whitesides N.C. is not really trad. quote]
i would have to disgree with this premise. just because an area has a smattering of fixed gear does not make it a "sport climbing" area.
Certainly Whitesides is one of NC's staunchest traditional areas.
(Doc Bain must be rolling over in his grave to hear whitesides described as a sport area.)
But not my favorite for trad. I will have to put my vote in for:
Moores Wall, New River Gorge, the T-wall, Seneca, Gunks
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badphish
Oct 3, 2003, 4:45 AM
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South: Sunset Rock, TN. Lost Wall, GA. Mount Yonah, GA(never a crowd).
Lover's Leap, Castle Crags(always secluded),
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reno
Oct 3, 2003, 5:10 AM
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Toss up....
Eldo, Lumpy, or T-Wall.
Depends on what I want... soft sandstone, bomber granite, or year-round rock.
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helmut
Oct 6, 2003, 11:04 PM
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Eldo is my favorite simply for the energy that exists in that canyon, everytime I enter it I feel like I am entering a place of extreme power and sublime beauty.
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the_crawler
Oct 7, 2003, 12:12 AM
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In reply to: [quote: Whitesides N.C. is not really trad. quote] i would have to disgree with this premise. just because an area has a smattering of fixed gear does not make it a "sport climbing" area. Certainly Whitesides is one of NC's staunchest traditional areas. (Doc Bain must be rolling over in his grave to hear whitesides described as a sport area.
Most routes at whitesides have cruxes that are protected by bolts. this is not a premise this is a fact! As for the AREA it is the staunchest of trad ethic but the fact remains ALL routes there contain bolts and most protect the cruxes. Not to say that an area that has bolts is a sport area because T-wall is a good example of this not being true! My point is that when someone ask me what my favorite trad routes is, one that has bolts to protect the crux would not even be considered a candidate, cause to me thats not a trad line. I see very little "fixed gear" at whitesides because the gear is usually not that good. Bolts are the "fixed gear" your talking about right, old shitty self drives, yes but bolts all the same. I never meet Doc but we all lost the day he died. RIP
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sparky
Oct 10, 2003, 6:42 PM
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1)Eldo
2)Indian Creek
3)Lumpy
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maria
Oct 10, 2003, 6:57 PM
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I think it's ok to describe mixed gear routes as trad lines. Its ok to have some bolts on a trad route. The bolts are there because the section is impossible to protect with gear due of the type of the rock.
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jeffo
Oct 10, 2003, 8:08 PM
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gunks.
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chili
Oct 10, 2003, 9:47 PM
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The Needles are unreal, if you haven't been there you wouldn't know.
Best adventure/trad climbing - Black Canyon
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chili
Oct 10, 2003, 9:48 PM
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The Needles are unreal, if you haven't been there you wouldn't know.
Best adventure/trad climbing - Black Canyon
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betaben
Oct 10, 2003, 10:27 PM
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Haven't hit alot of the places listed so far but i'll have to go Seneca, great multipitch with a great atmoshere, plus you've got some more gret trad lines up the road at Nelson Rocks, Then I'll toss in the New river gorge, lot's of great trad routes and very few people climbing them, Another hit for Lumpy Ridge, just a great place, The Needles of South Dakota, Scary stuff man, But here's the kicker Smith Rock, man there's alot of awsome trad lines there, not to many multipitch but still great lines, Plus everbody else is climbing Sport, so you get them to yourself. Oops now ya'all know. :D
Ben
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jen_c
Oct 10, 2003, 10:46 PM
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I would have to say:
Devil's Tower - WY
The Gunks - NY
Linville Gorge - NC
Shortoff Mtn - NC
If for no other reasons than I had great times climbing at each of them.
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one900johnnyk
Oct 10, 2003, 10:50 PM
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s
e
n
e
c
a
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flagstaff_climber
Oct 10, 2003, 11:06 PM
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Da Forks....
said with a Chicago accent, as in Da Bears
Rick
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takeme
Oct 10, 2003, 11:48 PM
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I'll second the vote for the Black Canyon.
Not the place where I go to have "fun", nor do I go there often. And I've had my ass handed to me on more than one occasion.
But it is the most awe-inspiring place I've ever climbed.
Runner-ups would include Lumpy (most fun), Eldo (best moves), Indian Creek (purest lines, stunning setting), Castle Valley (Indian Creek translated to towers), and the alpine rock in Rocky Mt. NP.
Charles
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texplorer
Oct 11, 2003, 2:46 AM
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The Valley.
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climber_dave
Oct 11, 2003, 3:10 AM
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the more I explore here..... Independance Pass in CO has some amazing routes. A very close 2nd. J-Tree is still the fav, but the local ethics here in Aspen rock. No bolted cracks here.
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maria
Oct 13, 2003, 1:51 PM
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I climbed in Independence Pass, there were a lot of bolted routes. I didn't even notice that were many trad lines (?), because i didn't have my gear with me. I guess i missed out.
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climblouisiana
Nov 5, 2003, 10:40 PM
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Cochise Stronghold. Good isolation...
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ouflyboy9
Nov 5, 2003, 11:34 PM
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Seneca WV
Red Rocks
Red River Gorge
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ksolem
Nov 5, 2003, 11:45 PM
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I've gotta throw down for the Needles. The ones in California, that is. Of all the places I've climbed, the Needles has hardball trad climbing at it's best.
Another place I see mentioned here a few times is The Black Canyon. Never been there but it seems I must go...
8)
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sonso45
Nov 5, 2003, 11:49 PM
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I agree that the Black Canyon is one of the few and I have only been three times. The Scenic Cruise is awesome. M
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madmax
Nov 6, 2003, 5:20 PM
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While all of those other areas (Yosemite, Red Rocks, Gunks, etc.) are great trad climbing areas, the Black is where you go if you wanna get hard. No bolts, very few people, and lots of committment; what else could you want!?
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boadman
Nov 6, 2003, 6:15 PM
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Registered: Oct 7, 2003
Posts: 726
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Squamish, B.C. by far. I've been to most places in NH, NY, MD, KY, CO, WY, UT, AZ, NM, TX, CA, WA, and climbed a lot China, Thailand, France, and Austrailia. There's just something nice about waking up at 4:30 in June and climbing 22 pitches by dark, all stellar.
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mtnbkrxtrordnair
Nov 7, 2003, 10:15 PM
Post #65 of 67
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Registered: Jun 11, 2003
Posts: 267
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I'm a Gunks local. Did my first trip to Seneca a month ago. Now I consider the Gunks "Seneca Light". Rock is similar, pro is good, not as loose as they say. The exposure is awesome, rock is steeper, the place is beautiful. The people are much friendlier than the Gunks (too close to NYC). If you get down there go to Nelson Rocks for a day "off", and do the Via Ferrata. Awesome.
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nthusiastj
Nov 7, 2003, 10:49 PM
Post #66 of 67
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Registered: Sep 3, 2002
Posts: 1994
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the gunks!! and Lumpy Ridge.
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inflight
Nov 7, 2003, 10:56 PM
Post #67 of 67
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Registered: Mar 28, 2002
Posts: 172
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In reply to: As I replied in the many other threads asking this same question: The Gunks, hands down the best. And I have climbed in Eldo, Devil's Tower, Yosemite / Tuolumne, Tahquitz / Suicide, and Jtree among many other places.
Hey rrradam, how were the ratings and protection compared to J Tree? I love roofs and was rather entertained and a bit apprehensive about how there is a distinction between overlaps, overhangs and roofs. Makes all the roofs I've done in SoCal more like bulges.
Peace!
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