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joemor
Apr 4, 2002, 3:25 AM
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what climbing related gear have u made????
rope bag, the clothes on your back, some scarey nuts from the hardware store on cord?
im going to try to make a chalk bag froma teddy bear, cut its legs off remove stuffing line it with fluffy stuff and bingo a cool chalk bag!!!!
joe
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bigfish03
Apr 4, 2002, 3:52 AM
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sweet!
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laplaya
Apr 4, 2002, 4:40 AM
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hey, I like the nuts idea...and sttopers should be easy to make...I thought about pounding in rail-road stakes as pitons and tieing them off with slings. any thoughts?
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joemor
Apr 4, 2002, 5:39 AM
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i was only joking bout the nuts.... you should only trust your life to certified products...... but im sure there those out there who have made pro..... well old timers used rocks jammed in cracks tied with slings as pro....
joe
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krustyklimber
Apr 4, 2002, 10:57 AM
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I have actually made my own alumimum pitons, stoppers, pecks and even, in the olden days, used machine nuts with the threads drilled out, and there is nothing I like more than to sling a chockstone (it is the most basic and satisfiying piece there is, like a gift from god).
I am currently working on a homemade portaledge, have made some stuff sacks and I'm also making a teddy bear into a chalkbag.
Jeff
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rado
Apr 4, 2002, 1:34 PM
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Teddybear chalkbag? Let's hope that some plushophile won't accuse climbers of cruelty to plush animals!
All the best,
Rado
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loafdog
Apr 4, 2002, 3:41 PM
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Leave the legs on the Teddy Bear!
Just cut off the head.
Then it would be the coolest chalk bag ever.
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verticallaw
Apr 4, 2002, 5:28 PM
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this is a some what creepy forum. I can understand making chalkbags, haulbags, clothes, etc but GEAR are you nuts (no pun intended) when I climb I am more than happy to spend the extra $$$ to know that the gear that I am falling on is safe. I belive that the only person who could make pro would have to be a expert climber as well as metal crafter. Just think of falling on a piton (railraod spike or homemade) watch it whizz past in your mind and ask yourself do you trust it compleatly??? metal has flaws internally and you will never know until its to late. Make what you want but I would'nt bank my life on it.
P.S. can you imagine hauling a bunch of railroad ties up a wall?? you would have to be a f**king gorilla!
Mike
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miagi
Apr 4, 2002, 8:43 PM
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I had these really cool LED pens that my dad got (he is a doctor, they get cool pens). Anyways i took the ink out and just had the two lights. I got some stretchy material, sewed the lights in, and made a head lamp Well, at least im in the process of it.
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atg200
Apr 4, 2002, 8:55 PM
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Making a pin out of a railroad spike would suck. I can't think of where that would be a useful size and shape.
I've slung blocks of wood to shim big cams with. Sketchy, but better than nothing in those 12" cracks.
andrew
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lostangel
Apr 4, 2002, 9:20 PM
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Hahaha The next thing we are going to hear is how vulgar climbers are ripping the arms and heads off of poor defenseless teddy bears!!
When I first started to climb I made a harness out of rope, it was reallly uncomfortable but it did the trick!!
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clymber
Apr 4, 2002, 9:59 PM
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I was thinking about turning my chalk bag into a teddy bear
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pattray
Apr 4, 2002, 10:07 PM
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My Dad used to carry a little leather bag on his back full of small to med sized stones and some wooden wedges that he made, he would wrap webbing around them and use them as choke stones when he climbed (This was in Ireland) he also made all his own metal stoppers.
he would make a harness out of rope and tie us in and haul us up after him.
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apollodorus
Apr 4, 2002, 11:15 PM
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Sometimes, the gear you need is not available in stores. The history of gear evolution ALWAYS begins with something new coming from someone's garage. Do you really think Ray Jardine bought his first Friends from Wild Country? He made them himself in Bill Forrest's shop.
http://home.pacbell.net/takasper/slcd/valleygiant.html
[ This Message was edited by: apollodorus on 2002-09-29 20:54 ]
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laplaya
Apr 4, 2002, 11:18 PM
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Pattray-your dad is now my hero!
Someone wrote... "when I climb I am more than happy to spend the extra $$$ to know that the gear that I am falling on is safe."
I believe that this piece-of-mind is one that can only be bought if you restrict yourself to top roping in gyms. that should be 1oo% fail proof. otherwise, no matter how safe your gear is, it is not safe unless it is properly placed. I was only half joking about the rail-road spikes, and yes, the would be a beast to haul up the rock, but if you could get them up there and find some where to place them, they would be as safe or safer then your $60 cams. There is no room for gear failure when you are talking about a solid piece of steel!
as far as using wood for chalks/ or to place cams...I would not do it, and if I did, I would be scared sh!stless
I in noway want to encourage unsafe climbing, but I think that there are such things as safe alternatives or at least alternatives that are just as safe as the accepted norms.
My absolute fav. placement is when I can place a sling directly on rock...no other pro needed. A sling over a horn or other rock formation or even slung through a hole and out the other side (I climb alot of karst) is bomber!
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krustyklimber
Apr 5, 2002, 1:17 AM
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I have no doubts about my climbing abilities, or my fabrication skills (I have worked in the aerospace industry, if I can make doors for 747's why can't I make pitons, on my lunch break, in the same shop?)
It's all about confidence!
Jeff
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lostangel
Apr 5, 2002, 1:53 AM
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apollo,
I don't know whether that is just plain beautiful or psyco !
But it is unquestionably awsome!!
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crux_clipper
Apr 6, 2002, 8:25 AM
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Malcom 'HB' Matheson made some of the very first micro cams and sold them out the back of a van at Araps in the 80's. I think he was doing mechanical engineering. Then the Cam companies ripped the idea off.
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frogirl
Apr 6, 2002, 2:03 PM
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I'm making a chalkbag out of duct tape.
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hishopper
Apr 6, 2002, 4:42 PM
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OK, why has no-one gone there yet? I know some of you have travelled a long distance to climb and come up short for a harness for yourself or partner. Out comes the Shrade before you know it you have delt most treacherously with the passenger side seatbelt of your approach vehicle.
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its_me_drew
Apr 6, 2002, 8:40 PM
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I tie my own daisy chains.
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krustyklimber
Apr 7, 2002, 7:15 AM
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Crap, I'm under the impression you and your partner have some severe mental problems (just kidding, you guys are funny, your little cross banter rivals Abbott & Costello)
And Climbon99, are you lookin' for test pilots, if you are let me know (I can keep a secret).
Jeff
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socialclimber
Apr 7, 2002, 10:02 AM
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When a gal I know took up climbing on account of the new man in her life, I made her a chalk bag. It started life as a bright yellow chicken hand puppet and would have gone on to scale greater heights as a chook bag except shes too embarrassed to wear it
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laplaya
Apr 9, 2002, 2:11 PM
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I make my own carabiners out of melted down aluminum cans...but sometimes I just use those plastic sinch-strips...you know, the ones like cops use to detain people when the dont have enough hand-cuffs to go around. also, if you cut the legs of your old jeans into strips, they make good short slings.
Oh, yea, kids... PLEASE DONT TRY THIS AT HOME!
you never know...if you fall, it could be hazzardous to your health.
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nessy
Apr 9, 2002, 7:58 PM
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i have a questions if any one has the technical knowledge to answer this. I make my own blades and angles. they were equally well to real ones except where i grind down the blades, to give them a taper and then use a hand file to take out the burs, they rust faster then the real ones. Can any body give me some suggestions on how fix this or what process they go through to give the real pitons that black finish, that doesn't rust thanks
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nessy
Apr 9, 2002, 8:05 PM
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krustyklimber i have made my own single ledge that works exceptionaly well and i think is very comparable to real ones in lightness. the problem is that i made it out of aluminum and it flexes to much to make a similar double. get back to me if you figure out a better alternative, like cromoly. I have not figured out where i can get my hands on some nor how to make it colapse down. I do suggest you use cordura fabric, it is the s--- when it comes to working with it and doesn't stretch like canvas or other fabrics do. good luck
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roadtrip
Apr 10, 2002, 6:25 AM
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Is a hand-tied sling homemade gear? They're cheaper, can be untied for rap ancors, tied end to end to make longer slings in an emergency, etc. etc. Anyway, I hope that everyone realizes a person made that store-bought gear. And I doubt that person cares nearly as much about your life as you do.
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skloppen
Jul 18, 2002, 4:15 PM
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just made an adjustable fifi hook yesterday (like a kong resting fifi hook). Made a few funkneses a few days ago.
Nessy: you can "blue" the metal. Gunsmiths do this with gun barrels to reduce rusting. I don't know how exactly this is done or where you can get the supplies. How do you make your pitons; forge them out of chrome-molly steel?
from STefan
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cragchica
Jul 18, 2002, 6:07 PM
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Quote:Anyway, I hope that everyone realizes a person made that store-bought gear. And I doubt that person cares nearly as much about your life as you do.
Roadtrip, you have the right idea...
Homemade is the way to go. I don't trust myself enough yet to make much more than tank tops, chalk bags, crash pads, climbing holds... but maybe when I get some real tools
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punk
Jul 18, 2002, 6:42 PM
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my bitching hanging stove
[ This Message was edited by: punk on 2002-07-18 19:07 ]
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sparky
Jul 18, 2002, 6:55 PM
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I made a haulbag out of duct tape and chicken wire, it works great, but i get some wierd looks
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wildtrail
Jul 18, 2002, 6:58 PM
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Nice hanging stove Punk!
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punk
Jul 18, 2002, 8:00 PM
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Just wait till the Portaledge will come out…Better then anything on the market (Im actually serious about this …for a change )
[ This Message was edited by: punk on 2002-07-18 19:07 ]
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blindslap
Jul 18, 2002, 10:53 PM
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i made one really bad piece of gear. I got really bored so i made a duct tape quick draw and i thought it was thick enough to hold my body weight, so i clipped it into the deck and then clipped into my daisy chain and then fell right on my a$$. that was a humbling experiance
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seamonkeyfight
Jul 21, 2002, 10:51 AM
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I made a bivy sack for a project for a mountaineering class back in college. I use it all the time.
Oh yeah, Nessy: You can buy gun blueing liquid at most gun stores. It should work.
[ This Message was edited by: seamonkeyfight on 2002-07-21 03:54 ]
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cragchica
Jul 22, 2002, 3:25 PM
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I can't wait to try to make a portaledge (they are so much fun )
...and, 'seamonkeyfight',
You had a mountaineering class in college?!?! You have no idea how jealous I am. Where did you go to school?
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punk
Jul 22, 2002, 3:49 PM
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cargchica,
If u can draw with AutoCAD I would love your input …and maybe you can too "make a Portaledge"
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wiegs
Jul 22, 2002, 3:55 PM
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*pppffffttt* autoCAD
ProEngineer is the way to go as far as CAD software. (But then again, I'm biased)
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cragchica
Jul 24, 2002, 5:38 AM
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I have a little bit of experience with AutoCAD - acquired during my year-long stint as an architecture student when I first came to college. I am probably a bit rusty now, and I don't have access to the program anymore, but I'd be glad to do what I can to help. Anything in the name of a worthy project...
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redzit
Jul 24, 2002, 6:41 PM
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Yo Nessy
The way to prevent rust is this.
step 1; Heat the metal object until it is blue all over.
Step 2: take a rag, dip it in a bucket of cow's urine. (i'm not kidding)
step 3; rub the rag all over the blue metal
Note: the smell of the evaporated cow's urine is something nasty so do this outside
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punk
Jul 24, 2002, 7:01 PM
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Quote:
Yo Nessy
The way to prevent rust is this.
step 1; Heat the metal object until it is blue all over.
Step 2: take a rag, dip it in a bucket of cow's urine. (i'm not kidding)
step 3; rub the rag all over the blue metal
Note: the smell of the evaporated cow's urine is something nasty so do this outside
Maybe u meant Ammonia since this is the active ingredient in urine
Anyway …that’s what u call up there Milking the Bull for urine….
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frawg
Jul 29, 2002, 12:11 PM
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I castrated B'harnee the purple dinosaur. I use his sack for my chalk bag.
peaze
frawg
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climbingcowboy
Jul 29, 2002, 12:35 PM
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I currently use a chalk bag that made from the purple bags that Crown Royal comes in I just sewed on spot to connect my biner to it works great it even says Crown Royal on it.
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naitch
Jul 29, 2002, 2:02 PM
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I had this really interesting idea for a chalk bag that would probably be a hit with a certain subset of the climbing population - their humor is probably inline with this potential product.
The proposed chalk bag would be called the 'Scrotum' and it's shape would be sewn to be similar to the real thing. It would have two 'chalk' balls in it. The first, regular chalk. The second, a 'chalk' ball filled with chalk like substance that I discovered by mistake and greatly enhances friction (I'm serious about all this!). You use the secret white powder first followed by a quick dustinng of chalk. It is amazing stuff. I've also tried mixing the two with alchohol and that works even better.
What do you think???
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deboulder
Aug 22, 2002, 11:36 PM
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Has anyone thought about making a crash pad?? i know its not the safest thing to rely on a homemade crash pad, but what about small falls or jumps?? do you think it would be possible to make a cheap pad to last for a few weeks while you save up money for a good one??
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topher
Aug 25, 2002, 1:38 AM
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lots of people make home made pads, and there just as safe as brand name ones, and two i looked into it and it costs alot to make a pad
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duck
Aug 25, 2002, 3:43 AM
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This evening I placed a 3 Cell-D Maglight with a short sling as a piece of passive pro.
Buildering Rules
Duck
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sparky
Aug 25, 2002, 5:11 AM
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I'm in the process of building a portaledge, with ny budget a homemade ledge is all i can get, oh well it will be just as comfy and safe as a thousand dollar ledge, but a tenth the cost
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djnibs
Aug 25, 2002, 3:40 PM
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Hey, reading through all these has made me want to make a teddy bear chalk bag. i think i will make a tutorial on it. make it all nice and stuff. lol. has anyone else made one?? we should start a thread with just pictures and info on how to make a teddy bear chalkbag. is that ok with everyone?? is anyone interested in joining??
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krustyklimber
Aug 25, 2002, 3:58 PM
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Yeah I have a teddy bear chalkbag, he's alright!
I just split the seam down his back and removed the stuffing from his belly (stuffed it in the arms and legs) and folded the back down so the bag fit in nicely and did a very Frankenstienian stitch to sew the bag in, he looks ok... I hope someone got his pic at the Smith gig last week. If they did I'll get 'em to post it.
Jeff
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djnibs
Aug 25, 2002, 4:25 PM
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hey, i am working on writing a chalk bag tutorial right now. if anyone else has made one, can you send me your ideas at djnibs@sympatico.ca i am almost done and should be posting it here sortly. if thats ok with the moderators?
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wlderdude
Aug 27, 2002, 7:08 PM
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The coolest thing I have made would easily be my rope bag.
Well,...no,.. actually my mom made it for me.
I made some harnesses which work well, but I haven't figured out good, easy gear loops. In case you are wondering, I machined the buckles myself. I used 2" tubular webbing and a stitch that exceeds the strength of the material. They stuff down to nothing and can even fit in a jacket pocket.
I made some nuts, but they didn't work very well. The sizing is terrible!
I made a couple steel rescue 8's. They worked well, but rusted a bit and were heavy, so I stopped carrying them.
I am sewwing up some aiders. I hope they turn out allright.
Please note that making your own gear is dangerous. I have done extensive testing on everything I have made that will ever have to hold a fall (buckles, stitching, cable, etc). It takes research. Don't do it unless you know what you are doing. To be honest, I haven't saved much money.
So far, the only thing that has worked better than what you can buy in a store has been my rope bag.
[ This Message was edited by: wlderdude on 2002-09-03 13:14 ]
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waxman
Aug 28, 2002, 10:06 PM
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My friend bragged about his harness made out of webbing. It was neatly done, but it looked really uncomfortable!
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jhundrup
Aug 28, 2002, 10:25 PM
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I have made several cleaning tools before for freinds that didn't have one at the time. You use a shelf bracket, the kind that hook into the slotted channel that you screw to the wall. Cut off the end and smooth it down with some sandpaper so that it isn't rough....it works quite well.
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rollingstone
Aug 28, 2002, 10:32 PM
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I have made my own down parka, down mitts,down sweater, down half-bag (with help from a friend to design and cut the pattern),(and these were all made before 1974, and still very usable today), my own pile jacket, bivy sac, packs, harnesses, sewn gear slings, swaged stoppers and hexentrics, made my own tubular pickets and actually used them for belay anchor and rappelled from them. I still use the nylon belay seat I made in the early 70's, and will probably make my own bosun's chair for two reasons:
1) There is a degree of satisfaction in making one's own gear and using it for the purpose designed;
2) One can take something available commercially and customize it for oneself.
Besides, when I was young, money was always an issue, so we had to be creative and spend when we needed to, and save where we could.
Krustyklimber is right on when he says, It's about confidence in one's gear and knowing that you have built/sewn/made something correctly.
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krustyklimber
Aug 29, 2002, 5:26 AM
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Well since I now know how I will post a pic of my Krustyledge and the clip in point...
and...
If anyone has any questions about it PM me.
Jeff
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basecamp_junkie
Aug 30, 2002, 3:50 AM
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I made my own winter mittens for skiing and ice climbing... I used a layer of fleece, then wool. covered by a goretex later and a nylon shell.
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krack-head
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Aug 30, 2002, 3:36 PM
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I totally endorse making your own gear, being an old school punk, we've always been all about DIY. In fact I made my own rigging plates (having access to a cnc mill helped a tad), My buddy and I made our own aiders, dogbones, slings gear racks etc. The dogbones were a little sketchy so we pitched 'em. Everything else: we use regularly.
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krustyklimber
Sep 1, 2002, 7:26 PM
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Wow, the responses I have been getting are great... and many!
I had no idea this would go over so big?!?
Watch for an arictle soon...
Though others have said I am selling myself short by not manufacturing ledges but giving the plans away, I say if you think about it hard enough anyone can figure it out. And I don't want to deal with the retailing of gear. Besides I only sew like a 7th grader, well maybe a little better than that!
Maybe we can reach a happy medium like Steven King does... instead of me manufacturing (publishing) the ledges, if you use my plans and you like it send me $10 (Mr King sell his books for $1, but he sells alot more, and like he says he just needs enough to pay the bills)... I'll give half of it to the site and split the $5 with my cowriter (if he accepts my offer).
I think gear is way overpriced in this country... I think the portalegde is the epitomy of that! I built mine for $80
I am going to pick up the pictures that show the frame today, they will help those of you who can build things already figure it right out.
I am working on photos (man I need a digital)and and outline for my article now... but honestly I have only read a few of them, and am suffering from writers block...
Jeff
P.S. thanks to those of you who have waited so patiently, I am rather slow about things.
[ This Message was edited by: krustyklimber on 2002-09-01 12:36 ]
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kevlar
Sep 1, 2002, 8:20 PM
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WOW so many great ideas....i am very impressed...my only claim to fame is that i used a coupe of the nylon bags that you get with the new folding chairs for my ropes...
First i wrap my rope in the backpack fashion around my shoulders and then i slip it into the bag real easy so it stays clean...when i go out to climb i just slip it out an put it over my shoulders an go to the location...
I know it is simple an not as fancy as a teddy bear powder bag...but it works for me...Happy climbing
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carnaged
Sep 1, 2002, 9:32 PM
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Nothing comes close to my home-made chalk bag, completely made from scratch -> well just scraps of material and a sweing needle lol...But it's black courderoy on the front and back, and stretchy green material that surrounds the sides and bottom. I've also sewn on my little saying that I have on the front" "save skin. Waste Chalk." I love it and would never replace it with a store-bought chalk bag.
Kat
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kzemach
Sep 1, 2002, 10:54 PM
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Chalk Bag:
1 English muffin (with raisins) bag
1 Coat Hanger
1 foot of duct tape
1 shoelace
Roll down top of english muffin bag so remaining bag is right height. Take coat hanger section and wrap around top of bag to reinforce the opening. Tie the shoe lace around one edge, duct tape around rim. Weight of chalk bag pulls it down so that it stays closed (hard to explain). Take pen and write "I am a cheap bastard" on back of bag, and give it to you friend Mike Freeman, who used it for over 6 months until it fell off.
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carnaged
Sep 2, 2002, 8:10 AM
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I'll stick to my beautiful chalk bag...
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maddie
Sep 2, 2002, 11:00 AM
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I'm in the process of makeing a fluffy yellow fur chalkbag which is just the right size cos its custom made plus it will only cost me about $5, apposed to $20 or $30 that you would normally pay 4 in the shops!
i think i might make some cool bouldering pants too if i ever get around to it
RoC On!
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shawkshaw
Sep 2, 2002, 1:28 PM
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after consultation with other wiser climbers i have started making my own U bolts for sport climbs. They are absolutely bomber and really cheap and easy to make.
steve
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rado
Sep 2, 2002, 1:50 PM
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I've made an abalakov hook.
Rado
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tylerphillips
Sep 5, 2002, 4:35 PM
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Made lots of homemade hangers. (Don't lecutre me on it, I didn't see you putting up new routes with your own money). And have also made a portaledge, chalkbag, and am currently working on building a partner that will not talk back and always go where I want to... Oh yeah wren industreies beat me to it.(silent Partner)
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knate
Sep 6, 2002, 5:59 AM
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a lepord print refillable chalkball!!!!!!, sadly it doesnt hold chalk well so its just a coin keeper in my car now.
-knate-
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krustyklimber
Sep 9, 2002, 4:01 AM
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I have finally got those much awaited pics of the bottom of the Krustyledge, this should help those of you who can build things a lot.
And
Jeff
*Edited to add; If this doesn't explain it go to the top of the page and click articles, I wrote a guide on how you can build one too!
[ This Message was edited by: krustyklimber on 2002-09-20 23:32 ]
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evanmfreeman
Sep 19, 2002, 3:53 PM
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i just finished making a custom double shoulder harness. it has 4 gear loops, padded shoulders, daisy-like loops at the collarbone, and a special sling attachment to support the gri-gri when i lead solo.
i've also made aiders (good nylon thread and lots of zig-zag stitches will hold a lot when put in 1" tubular webbing). they have PVC spreaders like the Yates big wall ladders and work beautifully.
misc: single shoulder gear sling with multiple plastic encased gear loops, 2 different chalk bags, rope bag, tons of stuffsacks and other bits.
making gear is mostly fun--it sometimes doesn't save much money. however, when i can salvage webbing from old packs and stuff lying around, it becomes nearly free!
i'm going to make a ledge soon after seeing krusty's inspiring effort!
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mcfoley
Sep 19, 2002, 8:47 PM
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awesome nut tool (my wife doesn't seem to think so)
Get a steel shelf bracket (14") and go to town, drill out holes (lighten it up)
grind down the tip (dremmel tool)
It's just a big version of any other nut tool but its about 7 inches longer than my...bd tool sorry there's no bottle opener...you'llhave to buy a 40 of OE!!!
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diplodocus
Sep 20, 2002, 5:58 PM
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Made a “Rope Hookâ€, similar to the one made by Metolius. Just use a strong old clothes hanger, fold it in half, then bend it into a U shape, with a hook on one end. Finally push it through a 1 inch tubular webbing. Burn both ends of webbing to prevent fraying…done! Saved me time at the crag … I just belay directly off my rope hook (right out of my rope bag, no worries of tangles).
[ This Message was edited by: diplodocus on 2002-10-27 02:39 ]
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philbox
Moderator
Sep 21, 2002, 1:42 AM
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Hey mcfoley that home made nut tool reminds me of a nut tool that a mate of mine made for himself. He used one of those large industrial hack saw blades. He had to cut it with a plasma cutter because it was so hard but now he has something that he can really use to wail into to get stuck gear out that no one else can get. He made it up quite long too for those hard to reach booty opportunities.
...Phil...
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lemurboy
Sep 21, 2002, 3:05 AM
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Well i was thinking about making my own Cams, nuts and stoppers!
don't try this at home!
Im in egineering, and have access to CNC machines
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moun10man
Sep 21, 2002, 5:23 AM
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This is my first post. You guys are killing me. I was litterally crying trying to read the mutilated teddy bear stories. Haven't made any gear since I took up the sport, but when I was about 10 I conned my dad into drilling some holes in a part of a "t" handel from a home fittness machine and found an old rope laying around and proceded to tie it between two trees and wallah!! A Zip line!!!
[ This Message was edited by: moun10man on 2002-09-22 19:56 ]
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knate
Sep 21, 2002, 7:16 AM
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an entire set of nuts, im starting to design a set of hexes now.
-knate-
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highclimber4life
Sep 21, 2002, 7:48 AM
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When I was first starting out about 3 years ago I had to decide between a rope or a crash pad. So I went with the rope and made a crash pad. I bought a sheet of 2 inch firm foam and had the guy at the shop cut and glue it together. Then I went to the hardware store and got some outdoor carpet and some left over yarn from my mom. Then i doubled up the yarn and stichted it all together. Three years later and I still use it all the time (i've restichted parts a couple of times). I think it only cost me 40-50$.
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no_limit
Oct 2, 2002, 9:08 PM
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I made a rope hook too. It is awesome. It was way cheaper than a store bought one, and probably works better.
Yay homemade gear.
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hroldan
Oct 2, 2002, 9:30 PM
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I made a kinda cheap-grigri
Well is not a grigri but here's the explanation: last weekend I wanted to climb but nobody could go with me. I don't have grigri or soloaid or anything like it to go solo.
So I started playing with two carabiners and the rope. I found a way of using these to do some solo climbing.
Is very simple, you pass the rope in a certain way on the two carabiners they will only let pass the rope in one way.
So I started doing some easy routes on solo. When climbing, I just had tu pull one end of the rope and when I fall, the carabiners stoped me from falling, just like a grigri.
The bad thing is that you cannot lower down with this as the grigri let you. You have to finish the route.
I'm looking for ways to fix this and maybe post some picts.
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punk
Oct 2, 2002, 9:52 PM
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Haroldan,
Is that is the Garda Knot
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hroldan
Oct 2, 2002, 10:04 PM
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hi there punk!
you are right, I didn't know about it till now. Is good to know that i came to that alone but is sad because is nothing new...
Well, is very useful, good to know for emergencies
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socaliforniaclimber
Oct 7, 2002, 11:23 AM
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As far as the garda knot goes just be careful because upon a fall the carabners could severly pinch the rope. Just a thought.
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joemor
Oct 22, 2002, 9:03 AM
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chalk bags of all different sizes are really handy and easy to make. you can use them for everything from a rope bucket to a bolt kit holder!
joe
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kman
Oct 22, 2002, 10:07 AM
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Hey hrolden...you can also ascend using the garda. Use a prussic from the rope and form a foot loop with it, stand in the loop, pull rope through the garda, weight the garda, slide the prussic up, stand in the prussic, ect, ect. I back it up every few feet with a figure eight on a bight. Do you use the belay loop for the 2 biners that make the garda?? I would not want to take a fall onto it though. Do you back it up in any way?
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kman
Oct 22, 2002, 10:07 AM
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Diplodocus...thanks for the idea man. I made one and can't wait to try it out.
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carnaged
Feb 16, 2003, 9:04 PM
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Well, I've got a beautiful picture of my home made chalk bag.....
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rockjunkie
Feb 17, 2003, 5:38 AM
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i have made both a crash pad and a bouldering chalk bag (the huge bucket kind). al together it cost around twenty bucks. i got a bunch of foam that i found in someones trash and used that for the pad. my chalk bag is the coolest hippy looking thing ive ever seen at the crags and is better quality than what you buy. i would post pics but i am computer illiterate. sorry.
peace
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easysteve
Feb 17, 2003, 6:16 AM
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It's not a bad idea to make a swiss seat harness, as long as you know what you're doing.
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ctardi
Feb 8, 2005, 4:48 PM
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In reply to: just made an adjustable fifi hook yesterday (like a kong resting fifi hook). Made a few funkneses a few days ago. Nessy: you can "blue" the metal. Gunsmiths do this with gun barrels to reduce rusting. I don't know how exactly this is done or where you can get the supplies. How do you make your pitons; forge them out of chrome-molly steel? from STefan
Powder Coating also works wonders on making it look nice, not rust, and not chip.
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cchildre
Feb 8, 2005, 5:03 PM
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I can buy quality grade 5+ steel nuts that hold their shape while hexes bend and fold. Crimping the cable is another story and can be tricky. To question the strength of a grade 5+ steel nut, No. I can take some pictures of my classic hardware nut set with custom cable connection, they are sweet!
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p_grandbois
Feb 8, 2005, 5:09 PM
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On a route in my hometown I keep 2 perfect sized rocks in a pocket half way up the route(I originally jugged them up there). They are both slung and are used within 5 meters or so of the pocket where they sit. This was originally just a way to trad climb with minimal gear, now it has become a quirk about the route.
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all_that_is_rock
Feb 14, 2005, 9:14 AM
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i made a big wall hammer out of some steel scrapes (i work in a sighn shop), and a store bought hammer handle. heres how:
i took an old hammer and used a saw to cut the head off. I found some old steele scraps lying aroung the shope in the shape of a block about 5" long and 1" wide. i used a dremmel to shape this into a cylinder. i cut the very front of the hammer head off and welded it to one side of my Ghetto steele cylinder. i drilled a hole in the rear for removing pitons and a hole in the middle to attach it to the handle. i sanded the top of the handle to the size of the hole in the steel and used apoxie t atach it. then i slung the thing and it works great.
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harrisha
Feb 14, 2005, 10:12 AM
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In reply to: OK, why has no-one gone there yet? I know some of you have travelled a long distance to climb and come up short for a harness for yourself or partner. Out comes the Shrade before you know it you have delt most treacherously with the passenger side seatbelt of your approach vehicle.
So, I realize 1 inch webbing isn't as comfy as two inch but why not just tie a swiss seat? Never cut out my seat belt, but I have used a swiss seat
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bennyjo
Mar 22, 2006, 1:33 AM
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When I was younger I had my own high ropes course in my woods and I made my own rapel eights out of Horseshoe nuts, or U bolts whatever you call them. It actually worked good, but I would not recomend it for actual rapelling
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onlycrack
Apr 7, 2006, 7:55 PM
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I don’t believe there is anything out there better then your own homemade gear. The enjoyment that I get out of it is awesome. When people ask hey where did you get that? You can reply with a "I made it". I have made a similar version of the Zion haul bag for nothing more then $10. Putting the final threads after this is posted. I made my own piton hammer from an old hammer I got for thirteen bucks. Just some welding, grinding and drilling and I have my self an $87 dollar Yosemite hammer. I’m going to be finishing my portaledge/ knock off of the "sky lounge" in a bit. Oh and my favorite is this hammock I made. I call it the body bag. It’s fully adjustable and zippers up the middle so no rain can enter. And it has a kick... window. It also clips under the future portal edge. For those who think they need the fancy cnc machines and the newest technology to get what they want. Their wrong. Be a dirt bag climber and use what you got. Hell i’m only 18 and i’m trusting my life to the crap I make.
P.S I have pictures if any body wants to see them but i’m knew to this and have no idea how to post photo. I can engineer and design but geeezz I cant even post a photo.
--Myles
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baigot
Apr 7, 2006, 8:10 PM
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I made Harnesses for sport and Alpine Climbing, Nuts, Hexes, Pitons.
Once i made a Friends (SLCD), a number 3, and tested staticly, not dimanicaly. It was a experiment now you can find in my desk.
If you follow some of the Phisics principles, you can find the material in any place and doit for yourself. But you have to be very responsable doing it.
Certifications shows some product can resist some actions produced on it under laboratory conditions, not real life. So, it can fail under real conditions as well as home-made stuff.
Certifications are important but not the total amount of products are tested and in any time some of them can fail...
I use my stuff under real (i mean real) conditions and i had no problem.
It´s my opinion.
Vicente.
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onlycrack
Apr 10, 2006, 6:38 AM
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hey awsome work on the pitons and hexes. is there any way i can see a picture of the cam. in deed well done. i got pictures of the stuff i made. ilol post soon well have a good one.
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republiclimber
Apr 10, 2006, 6:43 AM
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In reply to: hey awsome work on the pitons and hexes. is there any way i can see a picture of the cam. in deed well done. i got pictures of the stuff i made. ilol post soon well have a good one. |
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jimdavis
Apr 11, 2006, 4:03 AM
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In reply to: Hell i’m only 18 and i’m trusting my life to the crap I make. --Myles
Way to sell it, bro!
Jim
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koko
Apr 11, 2006, 5:41 AM
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I made my own gear sling...Coat hanger, webbing, cord...simple, sweet, and cheap (that's what its all about right?) Alpine butterfly used for the gear loops...I could have used plastic tubing for the gear loops but didn't have any on hand, works fine anyways.
http://www.rockclimbing.com/...p.cgi?Detailed=71986
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phang_nga
Apr 11, 2006, 3:05 PM
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Back in the day, I sewed up my own slings. I worked in a 'destructive' test lab at Newport News Shipbuilding and Dry Dock Co. in Va. The pull until failure rate was at least as high as the store-bought variety.
I did simple zig-zagging patterns instead of bar tacking.
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onlycrack
Apr 11, 2006, 5:48 PM
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ive been called many things growing up but extreme noob...wow. im sure at one point you were probably in my shoes or were you born and bread out of this site? should i try to act like an oldy of the rockclimbing.com just to fit in..or do you just enjoy criticizing those who arent up to par with you when it comes to post well i guess im sorry mr. hot shot.
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jimdavis
Apr 12, 2006, 1:31 AM
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In reply to: In reply to: hey awsome work on the pitons and hexes. is there any way i can see a picture of the cam. in deed well done. i got pictures of the stuff i made. ilol post soon well have a good one. i don't know why i want to make fun of this....but i do. i think i am falling into that retarded mindset of "low post count = idiot or extreme noob" which is almost certainly not the case. Not that i have many posts compared to some.
In reply to: ive been called many things growing up but extreme noob...wow. im sure at one point you were probably in my shoes or were you born and bread out of this site? should i try to act like an oldy of the rockclimbing.com just to fit in..or do you just enjoy criticizing those who arent up to par with you when it comes to post well i guess im sorry mr. hot shot.
Actually, he said that you being a "extreme noob" is not the case....
Jim
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republiclimber
Apr 12, 2006, 5:34 AM
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thanks for the support jim, i guess you can never say things to clearly on this site.
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crackers
Apr 12, 2006, 2:27 PM
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Destructive testing? Sounds like a LOT of fun...
btw, bar tacks are just a standardized zigzag. For example, 42 stitches per centimeter is what you'll see on most backpacks. The original bar tack machines have massive cams on the side so you can do different shapes. Circles, squares, trapezoids, you name it. They are fun to play with.
It would be neat to see a site with home made gear designs...open source cam anybody?
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leapinlizard
Apr 12, 2006, 4:39 PM
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The person that I learned to climb from makes most all of his own permanent protection. He welds his own bolt hangers and heavy duty steel pitons. He also had built his home climbing wall out of a tilted skateboard ramp using real rocks as holds. Of course when he started building the wall you couldn't get plastic holds yet, nor could you get bolt hangers when he started making his. His hangers are 1/4" steel sheet with a a chain link welded to it, it works well, and I know it is bomber.
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healyje
Apr 12, 2006, 5:43 PM
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Skinner,
Now that's old school burly and clever - hats off to you on that one...!
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