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trillium
Mar 20, 2004, 3:20 PM
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I'm curious to know how many pairs of climbng shoes you individually own? (I am not talking about having extra pairs in your trunk or closet to lend to clients). I recently purchased a fourth pair and a friend made reference to Emelda Marcos and me. I have a pair for the gym, two pairs for outdoor climbing, and one pair I just don't like. What say the rest of you?
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vegastradguy
Mar 20, 2004, 3:26 PM
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two pairs. one for trad climbing, one for sport. my sport shoes are junk, but better them on sharp limestone than my trad shoes!
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climbthemiz
Mar 20, 2004, 3:32 PM
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Cobras for plastic and my muiras for the real stuff
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smellyhippie
Mar 20, 2004, 3:33 PM
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I have :oops: eight pairs.
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crazygirl
Mar 20, 2004, 3:34 PM
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6, i think. (two have holes in them)
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boss
Mar 20, 2004, 3:36 PM
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3...Zeypher, Anasazi Laceup, Muiras
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ryanpfleger
Mar 20, 2004, 3:38 PM
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I have 3 pairs I climb with regularly. A fourth pair doesn't get used and I am trying to get rid of them. Size 39.5 Miura's, almost new! Anyone wanna make me an offer I can't refuse?
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somethingcreative
Mar 20, 2004, 3:40 PM
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I own one pair and I'm going to get miuras next month ;)
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vegastradguy
Mar 20, 2004, 3:41 PM
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i'm still waiting for some of the real shoe whores to reply on this one....i know they're out there!
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asandh
Mar 20, 2004, 3:45 PM
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:)
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ryanpfleger
Mar 20, 2004, 3:47 PM
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Oh yeah do I get to include sticky rubber approach shoes? I climb 5.8 in them, and aid in them. What about my leather mountaineering boots? Randonee boots?
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karlbaba
Mar 20, 2004, 4:33 PM
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There was a time when a climber only had one pair of shoes, EBs
No longer. Climbing is my livelihood but I still have a shameful number of shoes. This isn't including extra pairs that I have been given or loan out to partners
Newtons (now being resoled)
Matrix (worn pretty thin, soon retired 5-10 resoles)
Two pair T-Rocks (too tight, buying a shoe stretcher, bought new for $45 each at the 5-10 outlet)
Green Anatazis (see T-rock comments)
Aces (need stiff shoes for walls, 5-10 resoles)
Diablos (actually have two pairs but one was given and I use it for my backyard wall, which means only nowadays that I need to get back in shape,5-10 resoles)
Some other clunky 5-10 purple shoes that are comfortable for mellow routes.
Scarpa Generators (traded them for Kaukulaters, big mistake, hate em)
Had a pair of rebok climbing shoes, but traded them for some women's T-rocks cause they were too small.
Old pair of Boreal Vectors with 5-10 resole. My old favorites that I nurse along for special occaisions.
Approach shoes
5-10 mountain masters (just got em)
Soloman sticky lows resoled with c-4 stealth for walls
Two pair Sportiva dragonflys (new or near new, got a good deal, but don't like em too much)
Numerous pairs of water shoes for carrying up multipitch of the descent.
5-10 bugattis (thought they would be approach shoes when I ordered them, but they don't cut it)
Old pair of 5-10 venturas. Use em as a last resort cause they're falling apart
I probably shouldnt' count the book or sticky rubber tevas
I'd like to try a pair of those evolv Bandits with a stiff midsole for edging, but it would be hard to find an excuse to buy shoes.
Whew, Never bother to add em all up before. Must need therapy
karl
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josephine
Mar 20, 2004, 5:43 PM
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josephine moved this thread from General to Gear Heads.
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thinksinpictures
Mar 20, 2004, 6:09 PM
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1: Miuras
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xcel360
Mar 20, 2004, 6:40 PM
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Not enough, that's for sure.
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rrrADAM
Mar 20, 2004, 6:45 PM
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10 total... 6 pairs of Five-Tens, and 4 pairs of EVOLVs.
The Five-Tens have sat in a box in my closet in various states of falling apart since I got the EVOLVs, as they out perform them and have out lasted them.
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alpnclmbr1
Mar 20, 2004, 6:47 PM
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mountain masters
huecos
mocasyms
anazazi velcros old
anazazi velcros new
dragons
and some aces that I rarely use
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spivey
Mar 20, 2004, 6:53 PM
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You make me envious.... wish i weren't broke... damn blowout sales at gear express....
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deafears
Mar 20, 2004, 7:07 PM
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I hold on to shoes for too long ... going to try to reduce to six pairs ... that's the minimum quiver any real climber can get away with, in my consideration.
My picks are as follows:
Slippers:
5.10 Mocasyms - gym, steep sport
Evolve (red/black) - comfy and durable, good for easy sport/bouldering
Sportiva Katanas - sensitive, but still can hold an edge
Lace-up:
Scarpa Marathon - for all-day routes
Sportiva Muira - the best for steep sport/trad
5.10 Anasazi lace-ups - sized tight, for micro-edging
Plus:
Montrail approach shoes, Boreal lug-sole boots
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xanx
Mar 20, 2004, 7:22 PM
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6, although 2 (5.10 dragons) are wating to be destroyed in some creative manner b/c the entire front toe section is now shoe goo instead of rubber, and i figure its better to just get a new pair than dump 80$ to resole them ($40/pair) - they are downturned also so i doubt they would come back the same.
working shoes: 3 pairs of 5.10 V10's, one new and a bit too big. one pair of Mad Rock Locos (amazing shoe... any heel/toe hook feels so solid).
i also have a pair of 5.10 Access shoes for approach/ warmup.
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smithclimber
Mar 20, 2004, 8:18 PM
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In reply to: I hold on to shoes for too long ... going to try to reduce to six pairs ...
Unfortunately, I'm the same way. I must have around a dozen pairs or so, I haven't counted.
Without going and digging them all out to be sure:
1 pair of Aces
3 pairs of Mythos (2 being about ready for the trash)
1 pair Bambas
2 pair of Anasazi Lace-ups (1 ready for a resole, 1 new [and perhaps for sale])
3 or 4 pair of Anasazi Velcros (1 fairly new, all the others new and waiting in reserve [maybe I'll sell a pair])
1 pair of V-10s (barely used and a bit too tight [so they are definitely for sale])
I think that's it, but I'm just going on memory. :roll:
I don't think we were supposed to include approach/wall shoes in the list.
However, if you consider any shoe with sticky rubber:
1 pair of Boulders
1 pair of Mountain Masters
2 pairs of Venturas (1 used, 1 new and waiting for the 1st pair to wear out)
1 gift certificate from 5.10 for a free pair of Mtn. Masters (but I think I'll try the Guide Tennies instead, since they are the same value).
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ikefromla
Mar 20, 2004, 10:08 PM
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I have 4 pairs, but my Evolv Rages are the only shoes i've climbed in for a long time now.
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fingerjams
Mar 20, 2004, 10:46 PM
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I've only got 2 pairs. One for bouldering and the other for sport.
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potreroed
Mar 21, 2004, 12:38 AM
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I own five pairs of climbing shoes and they're all in good shape 'cuz I rotate around frequently.
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potreroed
Mar 21, 2004, 12:39 AM
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I own five pairs of climbing shoes and they're all in good shape 'cuz I rotate around frequently.
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slablizard
Mar 21, 2004, 12:40 AM
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4
Flash and Cobra for easy stuff/gym
Miura to send.
Boreal Laser for Cracks
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crazyscuba
Mar 21, 2004, 1:58 AM
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anasazi velcro- got em cheap, use em for gym
sportiva cliff- water soloing, cracks
sportiva focus- cracks, multipitch
sportiva cobra- sport, bouldering
sportiva testarossa- sport, bouldering, projects, overhangs
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nthusiastj
Mar 21, 2004, 3:06 AM
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I have 3
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climbthemiz
Mar 21, 2004, 4:05 AM
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ryan............too bad i wear a size 43 in muiras and cobras or else id bargian with ya
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flying_dutchman
Mar 21, 2004, 4:39 AM
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sheesh, my trad rack costs the same as some of you guy's shoe collections!
I got three pairs of shoes including some katana velcro's that i plan to first use tommorrow
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curt
Mar 21, 2004, 5:28 AM
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At one time I had over 20 pair of climbing shoes. And believe me, the Imelda analogy was invoked. In fact at the time, I had more shoes than my wife--how embarassing is that? Sadly this is no longer the case, and I think I have about six pair now.
Curt
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baza_arrampicare
Mar 21, 2004, 6:01 AM
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i own four: three pairs of sapphires, one boreal thingy.
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dlintz
Mar 21, 2004, 6:28 AM
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3 pairs:
Spires (To be resoled if I ever find them)
Ascents (Trad)
Kaos (Everything but trad)
Bandits are next on my list.
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sd
Mar 21, 2004, 9:09 AM
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2 pairs of miuras, the old ones have big holes in them :(
Should sort out getting them resoled. I'd like to try the anasazi velcros some day but I can't really think of an excuse to buy them.. my miuras perform so well I can never think of a time where I could blame the shoes and not me for failing on a problem :P
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j.bl
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Mar 21, 2004, 8:34 PM
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I've got three pairs i frequently use.
One Sport - Start up: For easy climbs on the rock or easy bouldering. I can wear those all day. Theyre not good at edging though. I got them REAL cheap so I can't complain. The glue is pretty sturdy, i've had them drying in full summer sun and the rubber didn't delaminate.
One Sport - Burn Out: A more agressive shoe I use for harder climbs. The could use a resole.
Mad Rock - Mugen: I bought these babies just today and i already love them. Can't wait to test them out on real rock, but the weather is very bad here :(
And I've got a pair of boreal stingers, but they're so dried up and hard from my sweat I can't get them on my feet anymore. I'ts lousy rubber, so I don't care.
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campo
Mar 21, 2004, 8:44 PM
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I have
1 pair of dragons
1 pair katanas
2 pair miuras (one for projects and another for gym)
1 pair anasazi southwests
1 pair venom (new shoe from sportiva that rocks)
1 pair trocks
2 pair mythos
I am a gear whore..plain and simple.....
Probably not a good thing :lol:
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caughtinside
Mar 21, 2004, 8:45 PM
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Moccs and Cliffs: nearly dead
Moccs and Newtons(resoled) still working!
I use the Moccs for everything, just wear the newtons when I want to give the moccs a break. I've busted out the old cliffs to do some really dirty climbs.
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thefox
Mar 21, 2004, 9:58 PM
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a dozen...maybe more. why?
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chossmonkey
Mar 22, 2004, 12:06 AM
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I have six pairs that I use regularly. If you count the ones I don't use anymore but could if I wanted it is nine.
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dredsovrn
Mar 22, 2004, 12:10 AM
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I am ready to get my fourth. My wife calls me Imelda (sp?) too. I have 15 pairs of regular shoes in my closet as well. My argument is that I wear them all.
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mcfoley
Mar 22, 2004, 12:37 AM
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4
2 old & 2 new.
5-10:hueco,moccasym, mojave(old)
scarpa- dominator (old)
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jajohnst
Mar 22, 2004, 1:02 AM
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Three:
Mythos for plastic
Scarpas for all day climbing
Miuras for hard routes - tight and painful but edge like a demon
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abock33
Mar 22, 2004, 5:43 AM
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I own'd 3 but recently gave my girlfriend a pair. I own the Pyros, Focus and a pair that I I can't figure out what they are.( bought them from a friend and he didn't know either)
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ikellen
Mar 22, 2004, 5:55 AM
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Currently I have only one pair, my trusty Phoenix's, but I am probably gonna get either the flashes or anazazi's for bouldering, and then maybe a more comfy shoe later on for longer routes/ multi-pitch. While shoes themselves aren't cheating in climbing, I think that having a shoe for every rock texture, weather condition, route type, location, and phase of the moon is kind of dumb :P
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deco
Mar 22, 2004, 6:01 AM
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7 pairs....
i´ve been climbing for 2 years and 6 months.....
is that too much?
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kevlar
Mar 22, 2004, 8:15 AM
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3 pair of shoes,
one for long comfortable climbs on multipitch
one for short hard routes...which kill my feet something fierce
one for the junk pile...which was my second pair I bought and feel like I have some slick rubber on them...junkers
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manacubus
Mar 22, 2004, 9:04 AM
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12 at last count. Not including the ones I've thrown out.
I'm actively climbing in three pairs:
Triop Wings
La Sportiva Mythos
Five Ten Velcro Anasazi's
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themacko
Mar 22, 2004, 2:15 PM
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I'm still climbing in my first pair, some Cliffs that could probably use a good resole. However I'm waiting on a pair of Katana's I ordered with my REI dividend and I am afraid to admit this but, Evolv will be at the Phx Bouldering Comp this year and I may have to take advantage of that. Ughh!
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overlord
Mar 22, 2004, 3:09 PM
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3 pairs:
1 pair of boreal stingers for indoor and warmup use (these are my first shoes, twice resoled)
1 pair of anasazi laceups for face and longer climbs
1 pair of mad rock flashes for overhangs and short bouldery routes
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maracas
Mar 22, 2004, 3:25 PM
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Rotation for Gym:
Anazasi velcro 3 resoles in 5mm
X-ray 1 resole in 5mm
Rotation for sport face limestone:
Miuras (2) 2 or 3 resoles
Miuras new
Rotation for bouldering
Katanas (2)
8 pairs in total, the thing is I live in Mexico and for resoles to be economically interesting, I have to send many pairs at the same time, so around every year I send most of them for a resole. With proper care, you easily get 4 resoles out of sportiva shoes. My Anazasis were only able to take 3 resoles.
I havent bought shoes in more than a year, just resolings.
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jcr
Mar 22, 2004, 3:29 PM
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5.10 spires and miuras, getting anazasi velcro.
JC
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dingus
Mar 22, 2004, 3:29 PM
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At least 20 pairs somewhere in the lifecycle from box to trash can.
Just keep in mind, climbing shoes is a much broader category than some of you seem to think.
DMT
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munckee
Mar 22, 2004, 3:31 PM
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I have three pair:
1pr. Aces - my first pair of shoes; just had them resoled after sitting for a year and now I hate them
1pr. Scarpa Inverno slippers - see above (actually, they're awesom, they're just too tight now)
1pr. Moccasym's that I wear for everything. They're awesome, but a bit tight for longer stuff. I want to get another pair slightly bigger to wear for all day/long routes.
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hack
Mar 22, 2004, 9:51 PM
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Two pair: Scarpa Reflexes and MadRock Flashes
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superdiamonddave
Mar 22, 2004, 10:01 PM
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Five.
One pair is trashed though.
Incidentally, I never wear slippers. My feet are too long and skinny so I like a stiff edging machine for my choice. I love the LaSportiva Syncros sp? the best. Since they quit making them I baby the pair I have now (thank God for resolers). I tried the LaSportiva Focus but they do not do justice to the Syncros.
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miuralover
Mar 22, 2004, 10:30 PM
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Well I've always said that having more shoes means that the perfectly broken in pair will last longer.
3 par katanas (one new, not used yet. one about to be retired)
3 pair miuras (one new, not used yet. one relegated to long multi-pitching)
1 pair cobras
1 pair miuras
1 pair testarossas
= 9
The embarassing thing is that when I go on a road trip I usually have over 10 pairs of shoes with sandals, approach shoes, runners, climbing shoes. At least they have a purpose :)
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wongwong
Mar 22, 2004, 10:47 PM
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Anazasi velcros, Miuras, Aces.
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sarcat
Mar 22, 2004, 10:50 PM
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Let's see:
Boreal Aces (love em)
Boreal Lasers (hate em)
Miuras (not worn em yet)
approach shoes
I'm always trying new ones on. I guess I just love the smell of new shoes.
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