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mother_sheep
Oct 22, 2004, 2:31 PM
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According to Fox 31 this am 2 hikers (they were climbers) ran into some trouble on Redgarden yesterday. One of the climbers took a leader fall and fell approx 50'. He died. It was a man and a minor. They have not released the names of the victims yet.
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jammer
Oct 22, 2004, 2:36 PM
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Do you mean 10-21-04? HAve you had your coffee this morning??? :wink:
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nthusiastj
Oct 22, 2004, 2:36 PM
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This happened in the future?
Seriously though. I'd be interested to hear what happened and to who. Hopefully it's no one we know.
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mother_sheep
Oct 22, 2004, 2:37 PM
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In reply to: Do you mean 10-21-04? HAve you had your coffee this morning??? :wink:
HAHA! OOps. I'll change it. I'm very, very tired.
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colqueerio
Oct 22, 2004, 3:32 PM
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From Fox 31's website. The men are described, alternately, as hikers and climbers. Not clear what happened. Does anybody know? CAPS are Fox's, not mine.
EL DORADO CLIMBER RESCUE - posted 10.22.04
NEW THIS MORNING, ONE CLIMBER IS DEAD, AND ANOTHER IS RESCUED AFTER GETTING STRANDED ON A MOUNTAIN. AN OVERNIGHT SEARCH AND RESCUE EFFORT WRAPPED UP ABOUT TWO HOURS AGO IN EL DORADO CANYON...A POPULAR CLIMBING SPOT JUST SOUTHWEST OF BOULDER. NOT ONLY DID RESCUE CREWS HAVE TO WORK IN THE DARK, AND ON ROCKY TERRAIN, BUT IT'S VERY COLD. THE EFFORT BEGAN AT ABOUT 7 LAST NIGHT WHEN ONE OF TWO HIKERS TOOK A 50 FOOT FALL. THE TWO MALES..ONE AN ADULT, THE OTHER A MINOR WERE DOING A TECH CLIMB ON THE MOUNTAIN AND RAN INTO SOME PROBLEMS. SOMEONE HEARD THEM CALLING FOR HELP...AND THAT'S WHEN THE SEARCH BEGAN. RESCUE WORKER WERE ABLE TO BRING THE SURVIVING CLIMBER TO SAFETY -- BY BRINGING HIM BACK UP THE MOUNTAIN AND WALKING HIM OUT. THAT WAS ABOUT 11:30 LAST NIGHT... HE WAS COLD BUT HIS CONDITION OK. THE LEAD HIKER, WHO FELL, DIED ON THE MOUNTAIN DID NOT SURVIVE.
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killclimbz
Oct 22, 2004, 3:42 PM
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Was anyone out there yesterday? Any idea what route they were on? It did get pretty freaking cold yesterday, and the winds were pretty high. Lots of debris and such does get blown off the cliffs in Eldo. I almost got taken out once years ago by such an incident.
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nthusiastj
Oct 22, 2004, 5:41 PM
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We drove into Eldo yesterday after work and it was pretty chilly. We planned on climbing ONLY because we thought it was going to be nice. We bailed and hit the gym instead.
So, climber, hiker, technical hiking, lead hiking, climbing huh? Do people in Colorado have no idiea what the difference is between hiking and climbing?
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amber
Oct 22, 2004, 5:55 PM
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there are mountains in eldo?
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winglady
Oct 22, 2004, 9:02 PM
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Channel 9 News came up with this brilliant statement on their website:
"The two men were climbing on the rock wall garden when one of them fell about 50 feet."
:roll:
With the abundant number of climbers in the Denver & Boulder areas, you'd think the reporters might contact just one of them to help them understand a story before they print it or air it.
You'd think so, but obviously you'd be wrong!
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matixa
Oct 22, 2004, 9:42 PM
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In reply to: From Fox 31's website. The men are described, alternately, as hikers and climbers. Not clear what happened. Does anybody know? CAPS are Fox's, not mine. THE LEAD HIKER, WHO FELL, DIED ON THE MOUNTAIN DID NOT SURVIVE.
Not trying to belittle a tragic accident, but I am stuck by this quote from FOX.
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shorty
Oct 22, 2004, 10:05 PM
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In reply to: you'd think the reporters might contact just one of them to help them understand a story before they print it or air it.
Injury and death are unfortunately potential dangers to our sport. But then again it's also dangerous to drive a car, walk down steps, eat Big Macs and junk food for 30 years, have unprotected sex, smoke cigarettes, get bitten by a mosquito, work as a soldier or contractor in Iraq, and on and on.
I'm not belittling the loss of friends and family in this accident -- I've been on scene for too many accidents and attended too many funerals not to understand the grief we experience after a accident. With a little luck, all the facts may eventually flow down through the mainstream media. Once this occurs, we can offer our support for the survivors and try to learn how to keep ourselves out of a similar situation.
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csoles
Oct 22, 2004, 10:17 PM
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It's amazing that our so-called "local newspaper" still has nothing about this on their web site. So far, the only thing I've seen is a brief mention from RMR that the leader who died was on Anthill Direct and the belayer was stranded.
There was also a girl who took a 60-foot slide after deciding to back off a solo of the First Flatiron. Busy night for RMR. Details on the Sheriff's web site.
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pt
Oct 23, 2004, 2:10 PM
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This is a terrible tragedy for the family and for the climbing community.
I just read in the Denver Post that the climber was on Ant Hill Direct (5.9) on Red Garden Wall. Evidently he took a long leader fall. This climb does have some longer run out sections.
They also gave the climbers name:
Alexander McInnes. He was 39 years old. My sincere condolences to his family and friends.
Peace
Jeff
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el_capitan
Oct 23, 2004, 3:33 PM
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I'm in a bit of a shock as I write this and I don't know if I really should and I hope I don't offend anyone but I wanted to say a few things because a million things are running through my mind. I knew both of the climbers and have climbed with them recently. The climber that died, his real name was Alexander McInnes but he went by Angus and he has been on the front range climbing partner thread, thats where I actually met him a few months ago. His screen name was oldmanonarock. The other climber I only met once climbing with Angus but from what I know he just moved to the states from Russia and he was just a kid, 18 or so. I found out in a terrible way last night when I actually called Angus to see if he wanted to climb this weekend and the phone was answered by his girlfriend who I have never met. We talked briefly and she didn't really have any more information then what was released.
The reasons I'm writing all this is to say that Angus was a very safe climber. I don't believe that he was in over his head because we have climbed together in Eldo on similar routes. He wasn't some climber who was inexperienced and was stupid. I believe that it was truly just a horrible incident that didn't happen by bad judgement. And in thelast few months that I have gotten to know Angus, he was also a good person. He talked about his son, who he was obviously proud of and his girlfriend who he adored. I ask that your thoughts and prayers go out to those who are affected. I am trying to get more information but with little luck. If anyone has any more information or were there climbing that day could you please send me a PM so I could forward it to his family?
Please be safe.
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nextascent
Oct 23, 2004, 4:27 PM
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I'll second el_capitans comments after climbing with Angus several times at Eldo. Angus was genuine...I don't know how else to put it. He only said what he felt...and usually in a colorful way that had you grinning. His humor was contagious. The first time I climbed with Angus I was somewhat overwhelmed by his generousity...but later I came to know that it was just who he was. el_capitan mentioned that the other climber had just moved from Russia...I met their entire family on a day trip to eldo once. Angus had taken the "american host" role to another level: inviting them to his home for dinner, employing the sons til they got on their feet, taking them climbing. He even showed the parents how to climb. My heart breaks for Angus' family and for Kirills family. I don't claim that I knew him long...but it was easy to know him well very fast. Angus was "stand up" (that's how he referred to his pop). I don't know what else to say...if you pray, pray for his family (father, son, girlfriend) and his extended family (Kirill, Alexey, Nina and Vlad). If you don't pray, just do an "Angus" today...share your smile.
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angus21
Oct 23, 2004, 5:17 PM
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Hello All,
This is Brittney, Angus's stepdaughter (not officially but nevertheless he was going to marry my mother). First I would like to say thank you to all the nice words spoken about Angus, he was truly an amazing man. For those of you who didn't know Angus he was an off-the-wall type, loved to say the f-word, and had the biggest heart. He hated to shower and cut his hair and could usually be spotted smoking a cigarette and drinking his eighth double latte of the day. Angus was the type of person who didn't care about money, having a nice house, or living the way that society thought he should, he was just happy being a free spirit and embarking on new adventures. He always made me laugh and always had wise words that were usually freckled with sarcasm. Angus was a bit of a wild man, always crashing and rolling the go-cart or taking corners so fast that he would blow out the tires. Yet he was also the one who would bring home people who were struggling and sometimes homeless just help out how he could, even if they were strangers.
The greatest thing, for me, though was how he loved my mother. He loved her unconditionally, to him she was perfect just the way she is. And in many ways he set our family free. He showed us how to have screamin-good time, laugh at life, and that what really matter was just enjoying each moment. I am so thankful that he was in our lives and I will always look up to him. I miss him so much.
As far as I know A.*(I am not printing his name because I don't know if he would be ok with that), our wonderful friend, was on belay and Angus was on lead. They were on the 4th pitch and couldn't find the route so Angus traversed left to get to a crack so they could get down safely. When he was about 10 feet from the bolts he fell. A.* felt a big tug but he was around the corner and couldn't see him, so A.* tied the rope onto a rock and tried to get to him meanwhile calling his name and trying to reach him on the walkie talkies. He couldn't see or get to him, so he slowly lowered him down until he could feel that Angus had reached the bottom. He then started calling for help, two climbers called the police. Rescuers said that Angus was pretty tangled up in his gear when they found him. The coraner is unsure how he died exactly. He was knocked unconscious during the fall but none of his injuries were lethal, the coraner is still trying to piece it together.
For anyone who knew Angus, we will be holding a memorial service at my mothers house on Sunday Oct. 31, 2004, in the afternoon. For directions please call Angus's cell phone 720-434-3169.
Also Angus has a 15yr old son, whom we will be setting up a trust fund for where people can donate to.
"they will see us waving from such great heights, come down, they'll say. But everything looks perfect from far away, come down now, but we'll stay." -Iron and Wine, song title Such Great Heights, on the Garden State Soundtrack.
Also I would like to post a picture if someone could tell me how.
Thank you, Brittney
PS: My wonderful Russian Friends: I love you and we are thankful for your friendship. Angus was so thrilled to go climbing with you.
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zozo
Oct 23, 2004, 5:50 PM
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Brittney,
Very touching tribute, I didnt know Angus although we had pm'ed a few times about getting together in Eldo. I was very shocked and saddened to hear this. My thoughts are with you and your family today.
Dave
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killclimbz
Oct 23, 2004, 6:03 PM
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I am so sorry to hear it was someone from this site. If you climb long enough, you are eventually going to know someone that dies from this sport.
My condolences to friends and family.
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colqueerio
Oct 23, 2004, 6:05 PM
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I'm very sorry to hear about Angus' death. I didn't know him, but nothing but good thoughts and energy go out to his family, friends, rc.com buddies and everyone who ever shared a rope with him during his life. This is sad, sad news indeed.
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amber
Oct 23, 2004, 6:15 PM
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Brittany, Thanks for the wonderful tribute to Angus. Something you said really touched me -
In reply to: The greatest thing, for me, though was how he loved my mother. He loved her unconditionally, to him she was perfect just the way she is. And in many ways he set our family free. He showed us how to have screamin-good time, laugh at life, and that what really matter was just enjoying each moment. I am so thankful that he was in our lives and I will always look up to him. I miss him so much.
I've met such people in my life, and they forever altered my path. Although I didnt know Angus personally, it saddens me deeply to know that such a person is no longer with us.
My condolences to you and your family. If there's anything at all that I (or any of us) can do, please let us know.
All the best,
amber
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gblauer
Moderator
Oct 23, 2004, 7:21 PM
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Brittany, My condolences to you and your family. You are in my thoughts and prayers.
Gail
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bustinmins
Oct 23, 2004, 7:29 PM
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I didn't know Angus that well but we had sent messages back and forth a couple of times. However, I feel that I know him better from the affection other people shared for him. They described him as always helpful, fun and encouraging. A man who would help out his fellow man whether it be with the shirt off of his back or taking him up a climb. Angus was a man that lived life rather than watching it pass him by. Friends I cannot and will not grieve for such a man. He lived his life the way it should be lived. I think Arnaud Desjardins said it best when he said:
"Daring to live means daring to die at any moment but also means daring to be born."
May peace, love and compassion surround the friends and family of this great man.
In Celebration of his life,
James Durden
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matixa
Oct 23, 2004, 7:49 PM
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Brittney,
My heartfelt condolenses to you, your family and friends. As someone else mentioned, what a nice tribute to Angus.
Take care........my (and I'm sure many others) thoughts are with you.
Dana
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hardmanknott
Oct 23, 2004, 8:07 PM
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Hi Brittney,
Check your PM Inbox. (link at very top of page)
Use that e-mail address to send the pic, so I can link it to this thread.
Dave
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mistertyler
Oct 23, 2004, 8:29 PM
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Sincere condolences to the family, friends, and everyone involved -
With regard to his injuries and cause of death, it was mentioned that he was knocked unconscious in the fall. Has harness hang syndrome been ruled out as a possibility?
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timstich
Oct 24, 2004, 12:20 AM
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I talked to Angus briefly on the phone when I missed his call to go climbing. He sure struck me as a colorful character, which I really liked. That eulogy was really nice. I lost a good friend in a climbing accident myself years ago and we labored to try and capture my friend's off-color humor in his tribute. Looking forward to seeing you all on Sunday the 31st. Take care.
Oh, and I have to say that the picture of Angus with the cigarette on the gocart is classic. I got a big smile out of that.
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johnhemlock
Oct 24, 2004, 12:45 AM
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Wow. Angus and I met on rc.com and climbed Calypso together this summer. He had a great attittude, was a good partner, and was really looking forward to getting into trad leading. I am very sorry to hear about this and my condolences go to his loved ones.
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tgreene
Oct 24, 2004, 1:01 AM
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The skydiving hat he is wearing in the go-cart pic, is from the World Free Fall Convention, which used to be held about 15 minutes away from my home in IL. The WFFC is the biggest boogie in the world, and is made up of a really tight group of folks that are very similar to the climbing community.
Assuming Angus was also a skydiver, does anyone know if members of that community have been made aware of this tragic loss..?
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skycat
Oct 24, 2004, 3:32 AM
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I went ahead and put a post up on Dropzone.com, even if he doesn't jump anymore, he was still a skybrother.
Kelli
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barmaley
Oct 24, 2004, 3:38 AM
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Hi
My name is Kirill. My brother belay him in that day.
Angus was the best friend for me here . He was good man and had a big heart. He had good sence of humor. And he was great partner. I cant beliaeve it can happened. I so upset about it. I miss him very much.
He was good friend of my family. My dad want to share
I am shocked.
I was worry when I come home and Alexey was absent. It was 11-30 p.m.
Angus and my son were in mountains.
I won’t say a story.
I’d tell few words about the friend of our family.
We are only 4 months in USA. Angus was a friend of ours sons and all family.
I can say now that he was the closest friend for our family in Colorado.
It was great person and unusual man.
A lot of people knew him. I can say only about myself.
My heart is hert and empty.
I didn’t think how much he was in my soul, in my life, in my sons.
My soul is hert. My soul yells! It’s impossible, it could be happenned.
Why die the best?
I cry and mourn.
Why die out the best?
God bless him. I believe that his soul is clean before Lord and he find his place in paradise. I send my light all why knew him. I condole you.
We lost great and remarkable person.
Vladimir
v.beliaev@juno.com
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glencoe
Oct 24, 2004, 4:45 AM
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My Heart Is Broken----I am a federal safety officer and a climber of 30 years. I climbed with Angus twice and tried to share what I knew. Anthill Direct is a dangerous climb and one of the top climbs in ELdo for accidents/rescues. The run-outs on the second pitch are up to 15' on tricky protection.
Angus has a heart of gold and an undefitable spirit, but he should not have tried to lead Anthill.
I write this not to denigrate Angus, but to emphasize to novices that climbing is dangerous, and those new to it should take their time in building experience.
I am so sorry. If Angus had called me to ask, I would have said no. I had a novice friend who asked about doing Kiener's Easiest on Long's in early season, and I spent 1/2 hour convincing him no. His friends went anyway, took a bad fall, and retreated with the only lasting harm to their egos.
I feel worst of all for Angus's son, of whom Angus spoke constantly. May the Lord bless him and keep him.
I wished I had told him no.
With Tears---George
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familyofangus
Oct 24, 2004, 9:31 PM
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I am Angus' sister. I wanted to express my thanks to all of you, on behalf of my parents and myself. Reading the comments posted here - by both people who new and climbed with Angus, and people who did not know him at all - have brought us a little peace. You have helped us to see a side of him that we were not a part of and one we didn't especially understand. Your kind comments and condolences were heart felt and have truly touched us and made a difference. He told us how much he loved climbing and I can see, like he did, that it attracts many wonderful, caring and spirited people.
Until a couple years ago, my feeling and memories of Angus were mostly of him as a child and a young man. I confess, we did not remain especially close through the years. A few years ago my father had heart surgery and I flew to Seatle from Michigan to be with my parents. Angus flew in from Colorado too. We were able to spend time together as adults and I saw not only the boy, that I knew so well, but also the man that he had become. Generous (to a fault - literally - he would give you his last dime), strong and so very, very funny. My father was confused after the surgery and didn't recognize us as his children, he was calling us different names from his past. I was mortified and upset, crying and unable to deal with it . Angus was strong and loving, staying with my father through the night, patiently helping him to understand, not letting him "escape" from the hospital - he was a pillar of strength for my mother and me. He told me later that he didn't care who my father thought he was for the moment, as long as my father wasn't afraid and Angus could help him feel better. I was amazed and humbled by this. He was a unique and wonderful person, with a huge heart and we will miss him more than I can say. ALL of the best and funniest stories in our family involve Angus.
Again, thank you for all of your kind words and prayers - God Bless all of you and stay safe.
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nextascent
Oct 24, 2004, 11:58 PM
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As Brittney mentioned there will be a memorial for Angus next Sunday at their place. They haven't nailed down a time (likey around 1-5?). If you need their address, please shoot me a pm and I'll send it to you.
I've talked to both Brittney and Cindy and while they're devasted...they're strong amazing women and welcome having the climbing community join them Sunday. They know how important climbing was to Angus and have found so much comfort in the words shared here and from phone calls from other climbers.
Brittney will also be able to pm you address and directions...I'm just offering up here cuz I'm a nerd that is on the computer a LOT.
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charley
Oct 25, 2004, 2:05 AM
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My condolences to the family and friends. You will be in my prayers.
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sharpie
Oct 25, 2004, 2:32 PM
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From today's Rocky:
Answers sought in climber's fatal fall
Man, 39, perished in canyon he 'loved'
By Sarah Huntley, Rocky Mountain News
October 25, 2004
A 39-year-old climber who plunged 50 feet to his death at Eldorado Canyon State Park Thursday died in one of the places he loved best, family members said Sunday.
Alexander Angus McInnes, who usually went by his middle name, moved to Colorado 15 years ago and was immediately taken by its beauty.
"He had a great passion for the outdoors. He loved that canyon," said McInnes' ex-wife, Mary Hughes, of Wheat Ridge. "The view, especially. He liked to get to the top."
The Boulder County Sheriff's Office was continuing to investigate the incident, which happened at about 7 p.m. Thursday while McInnes and a teenage climbing companion were scaling the 600- foot-tall Redgarden Wall.
The companion, who was not identified by deputies, began yelling for help after he lost contact with McInnes on radios the pair had been carrying. Authorities had some difficulty communicating with the boy, who is from Russia and does not speak English very well.
It took rescue crews six hours to rescue the teenager, who was stranded on a ledge. The crews later found McInnes' body dangling from his climbing rope.
The cause and manner of his death had not been determined Sunday, according to the Boulder County coroner's office.
Hughes said her ex-husband had climbed the canyon often but apparently got "off track." She said she believes he was trying to find a safe route down when he fell.
Authorities said the pair had been heading up the Anthill Direct route, considered by climbers to be of moderate difficulty, but they encountered a more challenging pitch about halfway up. McInnes was lead climber.
"I don't think that Angus would endanger anybody. I'm sure he had him (the teenager) there to teach him," Hughes said.
Hughes divorced McInnes six years ago, but the two remained friends. They have a 15-year-old son, Alex.
"He loved Alex very much," Hughes said.
McInnes ran Creative Ink, a silk screening business in Wheat Ridge. Hughes said she and her son would remember McInnes as "eclectic . . . and charismatic."
"He can make friends with anybody," she said.
Funeral arrangements had not been made as of Sunday night.
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angus21
Oct 25, 2004, 3:43 PM
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Taken from Dailycamera.com
Climber was a friend to all
Alexander "Angus" McInnes was teaching a Russian family how to climb
By Chris Barge, Camera Staff Writer
October 25, 2004
Alexander "Angus" McInnes, a climber who died last week after falling in Eldorado Canyon, was an outgoing and irreverent lover of life and climbing who befriended almost everyone he met, family and friends said Sunday.
McInnes, 39, fell about 60 feet Thursday night while climbing from a ledge about 300 feet up a cliff from the canyon floor. His climbing partner, a 17-year-old boy, was belaying McInnes when McInnes climbed around a bend out of sight and then fell.
McInnes took the boy, his brother and their parents under his wing shortly after the family immigrated to Colorado from Russia four months ago. The family had posted a message on the Web site rockclimbing.com, looking for someone to take them climbing, and McInnes obliged.
His family and friends said he often gave of himself to others, sometimes to a fault.
Lisa Malabad also met McInnes through the Web site. As he taught her how to climb this summer, she said she was struck by his strong, outgoing character and sense of humor.
She and McInnes and the Russian family climbed together in August.
"He was just a super host for America," she said. "I'm really happy that he's one of the first families that they got to meet. But they're devastated."
Rescuers and friends said McInnes and his partner were more than halfway up Eldorado's 700-foot tall Regarden Wall, on a moderately-rated route called Anthill Direct. They were wearing helmets, appropriate technical climbing gear, and walkie-talkies.
But on the fourth pitch they got off-route, and McInnes climbed sideways to a nearby gully that looked easier, but proved otherwise. He slammed into a rock wall and died. Rescuers found him still dangling from his rope.
A cause and manner of death was still pending from the coroner's office on Friday.
McInnes' fiancee, Cindy Mitchell, said the former U.S. Army Ranger learned to climb and skydive during his service with the 2nd Battalion. From that point through the rest of his adult life, she said, he lived for climbing.
"Whenever he was having any sort of stress in his life, that was his way of releasing the stress," Mitchell said. "It was his very favorite thing to do and he loved climbing in Eldorado Canyon. He made it up there quite often."
McInnes and Mitchell lived in Littleton. He is survived by his mother, his father, and his 15-year-old son.
He was the second technical climber to die in Boulder County this year.
Contact Camera Staff Writer Chris Barge at (303) 473-1389 or bargec@dailycamera.com.
Contact the family
October 25, 2004
Alexander "Angus" McInnes' family and friends are establishing a trust fund for his 15-year-old son. Funeral services will be Sunday. For information on either, e-mail creativeink1@msn.com.
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barmaley
Oct 25, 2004, 8:30 PM
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Hello, my name is Alexey. I'm Kirill's brother (barmaley's)
I’m the one who climbed with Angus that day.
It’s so many things in my head and it’s difficult for me to say something. We were very good friends with him, I loved to spend time with him. I loved his humor. Sometimes it was too black but I still like it. Once we were going to Eldo early morning and I was sleeping, he pushed the breaks on the speed about 30 miles and screamed “AAAAAAAAAAA…”. I woke up and was very scared because I thought that we are going to hit something. But when I looked on Angus he was laughing on me. He loved to make jokes, he was doing it every time and when he saw that I’m thinking about this seriously, he asked me “You know that I’m just fucking with you, do you?”
We were talking a lot with him and planning lot of things. He said that not long time ago he fixed his boat and he never sailed after it, he told me and my brother that we’re going to boat some day. We were going to try ice climbing soon. We were going to make a skydive together but he had no time for it. He told me that when he has time (in about 2 weeks) we’re going to go camping with Alex (his son) and Cindy’s family. He loved them very much. He talked a lot about Cindy, he always told me “She is the best chick I ever had”. He told me about his past live when he had lots of money and wasn’t happy and he told me that now he’s poor (last time he had no money even to buy cigarettes) and he is happy then ever. Once we went climbing and he forgot to tell that Cindy, he was worrying that Cindy is going to be anger on him. When he called her, he realized that she didn’t call him because she went to her x husband and she didn’t know he went climbing. He was happy as a kid.
He loved his son, he always told him that. Few weeks ago he moved in house across the road of house where his x wife and his son live. He told me that he’s going to buy him sell phone so that he would be able to talk with him anytime he want’s.
There were always a lot of garbage in his shop and car, anywhere you stepped there were bottles, cups, cigarettes and other stuff. Once me and my brother came in his shop to go climbing and I asked him why it’s always so many garbage in his shop. He answered me “Every time I have time to clean it, I’m going climbing”, then he made serious face and said that he decided to not go climbing but clean his shop and then he laughed and said “ No… let’s go climbing”.
He was very hardworking person so he usually worked about 15 hours a day (sometimes more), he didn’t sleep whole night working to go climbing next day. When I asked why he doesn’t sleep, he answered that he was going to sleep a lot when he was dead.
I asked why he is working so much, he told me that he loved his job, but he’s not crazy about his job because if he would be rich, he would go climbing every day.
He was really kind man; he met my brother on this site and invited him to go climbing with him. In a while we met him closer, met his son and his family. I can say for shore that Mitchels were his family; Cindy’s daughters were his daughters. I want to say that I and my family love them. They invited my brother, me and my parents for dinners and just to hanging out in Cindy’s house. Angus gave us the work in shop and Cindy in her house before we founded full time jobs.
Angus was very king man. He always paid for gas, soda and some food when we went climbing. Once I tried to pay for water, I already gave money to cashier; Angus took it back from his hand and told “Do not take money from poor Russians”. I paid just once on last Monday (we went in Boulder canyon). This day he gave to cashier his last dollars for cigarettes before climbing. After climbing I asked if he needs money at lest to eat, I had $30. He said no but that he would like some Pepsi, we went to the store and this was first and last time I paid for him.
I believe that many people want to know what happened so I’m going to tell it.
This day when I paid for him first time, he told me that we should go climbing together again and I said that my next day off is Thursday. I didn’t pay attention for that because sometimes he wanted to go climbing but he couldn’t because his work.
On Thursday I woke up, took a shower and had one cup of coffee. Then I was trying to check my email but I couldn’t because my phone didn’t work. Nobody was home; I didn’t know what to do so I start playing computer. In 10 minutes playing I watched in window and saw Angus passing my door. I ran out and saw that Angus was going to knock my neighbor’s door. I stopped him. I was very surprised because he didn’t call me. It was about 12 am. He said that he was trying to call me from 8 am; he said that he thought I’m setting in some porn sites. So I took my stuff and we went in his shop to take his gears and stuff.
Next day I checked my mail and founded 2 messages from him: “been trying to call for an hour and a half get off the internet. Angus” and “get off the internet been trying to call it's 9.00am lets go climbing”.
In the shop we grabbed his stuff, water and 2 Pepsis. Near the shop we met Angus’s friend who came to his shop to take something. They talked about something and we went in Eldo.
On the way to Eldo Angus took the wrong tern and, as he said, we lost 20 minutes. While loosing 20 minutes he called Cindy and told her that we’re going climbing.
I want to say that usually it’s 3 of us going climbing: Angus, Kirill and me. Once el_capitan went climbing with us and we went climbing with my parents and nextascent.
Kirill went with him few times without me and I went with Angus without him 3 times. First time was in Eldo, it was my first lead, second time - on last Monday and third – on last Thursday (Kirill had to work).
He chose one rout. He said it’s a long one but easy (5.5 - 5.6). We took jackets and head light. He thought that it’s going to be raining in the evening and if we will be late, we’re going to need this. He gave me Eldo-book to put it in my bag and he had copied page in his pocket of this rout so that we wasn’t going to be lost.
First peach was easy and beautiful; we didn’t reach the tree as says in book. So the second peach was short. Third peach was difficult, there were many loose rocks and we had to climb on vertical rock. We were going left and a little bit up. When I reached Angus he was smiling, he said “That was the hard motherfucker”. He said that on the middle of this peach he was going to turn back.
We took some pictures, I gave him all gears, he gave me an anchor. When I asked him why I need it, he answered that I was going to need it if he would fall. He told me that we were out of the rout and that he doesn’t know where we are. He told me that there’s a Redguard passing near and he was sure that there are some bolts on it. And we were going to use it to reach the ground. He had 2 brand new 60 meters long ropes which he got on his 39th birthday 2 weeks ago.
He started climbing to the left to rich the crack. We had little “walky-talkies” to talk with each other. In the beginning I was asking him something, he answered me without “walky-talkie” just by voice. I realized that the route was hard, I stopped talk with him. After a while I felt big put from his side, I even felt. I kept him tite and I thought that he’s anger because the route is hard and I don’t give him the rope. He didn’t say anything, he kept climbing. I still kept him tite. He didn’t move for a long time and I asked him if he’s making an anchor, he screamed no. I didn’t understand was it screaming of anger or tiredness or something else. In my head it was anger because he pulled the rope before very hard. In a while I felt big pulling from his side again, I was thinking that he’s anger again, it was the hard moment and I don’t give him the rope. So I gave him the rope but it stocked in the rocks and didn’t go, I pulled it and gave him the rope again because it was still pulling from his side… The biggest problem was that I couldn’t see him. In that moment I realized that he may be falling. I stopped give him the rope and asked if he’s OK, he didn’t answered, I thought that his “walky-talkie” can be broken, I screamed him but he didn’t answered. He had a helmet but I thought that he could still hurt his head and be not awake.
I put the rope around karabiners and rock so that Angus could be safe. I put the prussic around the rope, it was tite. My hands were shaking. I climbed to the last gear, then rope was going strait gown in the crack so that I couldn’t see Angus. On left to the crack it was about 2-3 meters. I was trying to put belay device on the rope so that to get down to Angus but I couldn’t because the rope was tite. I realized that there’s nothing I can do. I came back and start asking help. It was dark already so I turned on my head light. Few guys saw me and went to ask help. I was talking to Angus and screaming, I was hoping that he would wake up and we will finish our rout. But he didn’t answer. I took the belay on me and put Angus down. Then I was asking him to pull the rope if he hear me but he didn’t answer.
In couple of hours rescue team came and got me on top. There I was told that Angus died. He was a strong man. I couldn’t believe it. I couldn’t believe that I’m not going to see him again. I didn’t know what to do; I didn’t know how to tell that to Cindy.
That was the worst night in my life. I want to tell thanks to rescue team, tell thanks for rescue me and for doing everything they could.
I can’t stop thinking about Angus. I’m trying… I’m working, watching movies, playing computer… but it’s not working. It’s still hard to understand that he died, even when I saw him dead in morgue.
Angus moved to new house, he moved to new shop, he was going to buy new car if future, sell his business and start a new one, he was going to put new tooth (he broke one on his shop). He was full of live. His live just started.
He was a kindest man and I’ll never forget him. He loved rock climbing. I think if he knew that he was going to die, he would be happy to know that he was going to die climbing.
Climb save and appreciate everything you have
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ambler
Oct 25, 2004, 9:05 PM
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What a harrowing story by Alexey. It sounds like he was trying his best, in a terrible situation.
In reply to: He chose one rout. He said it’s a long one but easy (5.5 - 5.6).... First peach was easy and beautiful; we didn’t reach the tree as says in book. So the second peach was short. Third peach was difficult, there were many loose rocks and we had to climb on vertical rock. We were going left and a little bit up. When I reached Angus he was smiling, he said “That was the hard f---”. He said that on the middle of this peach he was going to turn back. |
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amber
Oct 25, 2004, 9:16 PM
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Alexey - my heart goes out to you. I'm sure you've received a million shoulders to lean upon, but please add my shoulder to that list.
On a more pragmatic note, I did want to point out something - something that I hope beginners can pick up on. As simple and obvious as it seems to many of us, I would not have known to do this, had I been in your shoes, when I first started belaying people on trad routes.
In reply to: I put the rope around karabiners and rock so that Angus could be safe. I put the prussic around the rope, it was tite. My hands were shaking. I climbed to the last gear, |
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anykineclimb
Oct 26, 2004, 8:09 AM
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you know Amber, I was thinking the same thing. How many people nowadays go out for a day of just practicing self rescues?
Alexey- My heart goes out to you. For your loss of such a good friend and mentor also to you for having to experience such an ordeal.
I can't give any advise on how to "get over" this. I just hope you can do it soon and enjoy the good memories you have of Angus.
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timstich
Oct 26, 2004, 2:47 PM
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Craig Luebben gives self rescue clinics for parties of six.
http://www.craigluebben.com/...clinics.html#rescue1
If not, we can practice some of the techniques from David Fasulo's Self Rescue book. Get a copy of that if you don't already have one. It's a Falcon book. The thing is, we need to do this with gear we would likely have on us during a regular climb. So that means ascending the rope with prusik knots or other knot.
Shall we keep the self-rescue discussion here or move it to the Front Range Partners thread? I assume most of us read both threads.
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amber
Oct 26, 2004, 6:12 PM
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I've taken self-rescue and wilderness first aid classes, but it's been awhile. I'd be happy to hop in on a self-rescue practice session and/or to join five others who are equally interested in saving their own butts. :)
I'm obviously somewhat anal about safety these days. ;)
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dirtgirl
Oct 26, 2004, 7:10 PM
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Bob D delete this!
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sarcat
Oct 26, 2004, 8:17 PM
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My condolences to his son, family and friends. You will be in my prayers.
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deleted
Deleted
Oct 26, 2004, 8:36 PM
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Sorry about your friend, but the story doesn't make sense. Sounds like you and Angus lost communication didn't have a rope tug system to communicate. You thought he wanted slack we in fact he was falling??? Sounds like you gave him lots of slack and feel far or he pendulumed hard sideways and feel sounds like he was traversing, maybe didn't place enough gear and swung down and the belayer gave him slack by mistake at the sametime?
Anybody make sense out of this???
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zozo
Oct 26, 2004, 8:42 PM
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In reply to: Anybody make sense out of this???
Not really the time or place.
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mother_sheep
Oct 26, 2004, 8:43 PM
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No doubt dude! Check your PM and don't let the door hit you in the a$$ on the way out.
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deleted
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Oct 26, 2004, 8:52 PM
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Whatever, safety is always my first thought. What if this accident was caused by a biner that should be recalled? or bad bolts at that crag? I want to know how to not have this happen to me. I look at what people are doing very closely when I'm climbing, and almost every climber I see is making one mistake or another. I'm no expert at climbing but I'm amazed I don't see more accidents. If we can all become a little safer right now today. Then that is more important than anything. Feelings can be healed, broken skulls can't.
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skibabeage
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Oct 26, 2004, 9:00 PM
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Oct 26, 2004, 9:08 PM
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[quote:77639a65fb="skibabeage"][quote:77639a65fb="nagual"]Sorry about your friend, but the story doesn't make sense. Sounds like you and Angus lost communication didn't have a rope tug system to communicate. You thought he wanted slack we in fact he was falling??? Sounds like you gave him lots of slack and feel far or he pendulumed hard sideways and feel sounds like he was traversing, maybe didn't place enough gear and swung down and the belayer gave him slack by mistake at the sametime?
Anybody make sense out of this???[/quote:77639a65fb]
Actually, no. This isn't what I interpreted from Alexey's post at all. Your thoughts in the last sentence are pretty undiscernable as well.
I would recommend that trying to solve the mystery publically be put aside out of respect for Angus, his family and friends. We might never know exactly what happened, and that's alright. Yes, safety is everyone's concern, and I have no doubt every safety was being taken. But this is, for now, not the place to figure it out. Let the bereaved grieve in peace.
Thanks,
Martha
Site Management[/quote:77639a65fb]
huh? So you think it's better to wallow in despair then learn something life saving from this?
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edge
Oct 26, 2004, 9:17 PM
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In reply to: In reply to: I would recommend that trying to solve the mystery publically be put aside out of respect for Angus, his family and friends. We might never know exactly what happened, and that's alright. Yes, safety is everyone's concern, and I have no doubt every safety was being taken. But this is, for now, not the place to figure it out. Let the bereaved grieve in peace. Thanks, Martha Site Management huh? So you think it's better to wallow in despair then learn something life saving from this?
Well said, Martha.
Nagual, if there is something to be learned from this, then it will likely be determined by the local Search and Rescue, police, or other authorities, not by some across the country internet sleuthing by anyone who is unfamiliar with the route, weather conditions, or any of the particulars. If and when the authorities come to a conclusion, then I am sure it will be made public. That has not happened yet.
As for Angus' family and friends, my deepest and most heartfelt condolences. He sounds like he was a wonderful human being and I regret never getting an opportunity to meet him.
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timstich
Oct 26, 2004, 9:51 PM
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I know you are just curious, nagual, and it's perfectly alright to say so. It's just that this accident hits too close to home for some. It's right in our backyard. PM me if you want to discuss anything. I only know what I have read and my own knowledge of the South Butress of Redgarden Wall where they were.
Hopefully later, when a week or so has passed, we can look at this accident again.
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Oct 26, 2004, 9:53 PM
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Don't get me wrong I am sorry for those directly affected by this. Hopefully in time we can learn from this.
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usmc_2tothetop
Oct 27, 2004, 3:29 PM
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Posts like this remind me of how some people try to break down a tragedy like this to every little detail to get the why, how, the who, and what (went wrong). This passion is dangerous and can not go without sacrifice. It was very interesting to read the posts of the family members and close friends. To put a face and character to the loss instead of just another number. We have some great people in this community and this thread reminds me to stay sharp when I'm out there.
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climboard
Oct 27, 2004, 8:08 PM
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My condolences to Angus's family and friends. He sounds like the type of person we'd all be happy to have shared a rope with.
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climbsomething
Oct 27, 2004, 9:14 PM
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As this web site grows, more people who signed on and posted here will be affected, if not killed, by climbing accidents.
As climbers, we have a keen and vested interest in dissecting the ins and outs of accidents. As humans, we have morbid curiosity. As internet junkies, some of us have a tendency to make incindiary and crass statements in the wrong place at the wrong time. Sadly, I hope I never meet an ill fate on the rock, not only for my own well-being, but to avoid having to answer to the jackholes of the internet, or having my mother, who I know lurks here, read some incoherent slander about how stupid I was.
Thank you skibs and others for keeping this thread a warm and accepting place for people to mourn as well as send positive thoughts toward Angus and his family. May the Lord bless and keep Angus, his children, his family and his friends, and may we all be touched by a wonderful climbing spirit like Angus. Peace.
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pt
Oct 27, 2004, 11:37 PM
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What a beautiful post by Skibabeage, it brought tears to my eyes.
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rocksolid
Oct 28, 2004, 12:41 AM
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I'd also like to send my condolences to Angus's family and friends. Agnus sounds like he was a great guy!
Craig
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nextascent
Oct 28, 2004, 2:21 AM
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Skibs....I thought the same thing (scottish accent). That name was a dead giveaway. The blessing was wonderful!
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sportyj
Oct 28, 2004, 4:25 AM
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My sincerest condolences, I cannot imagine the difficulty of losing someone so special. You are all in my prayers.
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angus21
Oct 29, 2004, 1:14 AM
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Hello, this is Cindy, Angus’ fiancée. Bear with me as I try to put into words all of the thoughts and feelings I’m having. I wanted to post here sooner but didn’t have the ability to do so. Let me start out with my heartfelt thanks to all of you for your kind thoughts and words. They bring much comfort to me and my family. I am in awe of the overwhelming support I’ve received from the climbing community.
I’d like to share my thoughts and memories of Angus. I had talked with Angus on the phone several times (like 10 hours worth) before we actually met in person. By the time I met him I really didn’t care what he looked like. Here’s what I saw; dimples deep enough to park a car, a constant smile, and the most beautiful soul. My kids thought he was a possible axe murderer for the first oh, 5 minutes or so but then realized how genuine he was and grew to love him like a father. That was almost 4 years ago and I can honestly say those years were some of my very best. A month after I met him he asked me to marry him (for the first time, but not the last). I thought he was joking or just plain wacko but what I learned quickly is that if he felt it, he spoke it.
Our first camping trip that summer was near Grand Lake over the 4th of July weekend. We did the usual things and a few unusual things. One night we jumped over the fire, naked. We carved A + C on a tree. (I respect nature very much, but at the time it seemed like a great idea.). And, of course, we watched the most spectacular fireworks over Grand Lake. We went camping often and two of the trips really stand out in my mind. We were looking at a map and found the trailhead to Lake Evelyn was very close. On the map it appeared to be roughly a mile or so hike to the lake. We decided to take his blowup boat in case the fishing was good. The four of us set off, Angus, me, Alex and Cass at about 1:00 p.m. We were dressed in shorts, t-shirts, had one bottle of water and a granola bar. Angus was carrying the boat on his shoulder and the kids and I were lugging all the fishing gear and paddles. We hiked forever (turned out to be 5.7 miles) through a couple of snow drifts and kept filling the water bottle with snow. Five hours and 3000 feet higher (I might be exaggerating about the change in altitude), we finally found the wretched lake. It was the most beautiful site. We launched the boat and paddled around while it rained/snowed on us the whole time. The trip down took only 45 minutes because it was so steep and we finally arrived back at the trail head. The next day, we were driving around and spotted a huge pipe (about 7’ in diameter) that went under the road with the river running through it. As we stood on the edge of the pipe looking into the river, Angus got the idea that we could jump into the water. We figured if we jumped to the right about 4 feet out we would land in what looked like a pretty deep hole. He went first and came up yelling because the water was so cold. Duh, it was from that wretched Lake Evelyn. We spent the rest of the camping trip jumping into ‘the swimming hole’ and had the best time.
The last time we went camping was this past summer. As he spent more and more time climbing, it was difficult to pry him away. We took the go-cart he had given Cass for Christmas (the one in the picture). As soon as we had set up camp, he spotted a gigantic mud hole that measured about 10’ by 15’. Next thing I know, he’s flying down the road in the go cart and screams through the mud hole at full speed. Everyone took a turn or 20, yes, even me. I’ve never been covered with so much dirt and it was a BLAST! I went down to the river to get cleaned up in the freezing water from that wretched Lake Evelyn and he gave me a ride back to camp in the go cart. Yes, you guessed it. He drove me through the mud hole at mach 10, laughing the whole time. My purpose in telling these stories is to illustrate his very unique ability to create fun wherever he went out of whatever was handy. He truly lived every minute to its fullest. I only hope I follow his outstanding example.
Other pieces of Angus, he loved his son Alex more than words can describe. He loved my children as his own for which I will be forever grateful. When he wasn’t “doin’ some killin” as he called it with Alex while playing X-box, he was teaching my youngest to climb in Boulder Canyon. Angus and Cass had an especially close relationship. They shared that ‘no fear’ quality and desire to swim in every river, explore every cave and climb every mountain.
He used the f word as a true art form. Verb, adjective, noun, etc. He loved 12 shot mochas and always had a smile on his face. His favorite movie scene was the guy killing zombies with a lawnmower strapped to his chest in Dead Alive. He loved listening to the blues, especially Louis Armstrong. He especially loved climbing in Eldo and was constantly planning the next climb with Alexi and Kirill or anyone else he could think of. I used to get so sick of him reading me route information from his climbing book. Climbing, climbing, climbing, Eldo, Eldo, Eldo. At times, I thought my ears would bleed. He had torrets syndrome that occurred whenever he was asleep and would burst out cursing, much to amusement of anyone present.
Most of all, he gave me his unconditional love. He unleashed my fierce spirit and freed me from my moorings. He helped me find myself in a way I didn’t know was possible. I could always count on his wisdom to point out what mattered and show the rest as fluff. His humor was constant and his smile contagious. He was the happiest man I’ve ever known even though he didn’t have a pot to p*** in because he was rich in spirit, love and friendship. He was definitely a double handsome man. Handsome on the outside and also on the inside. I am lost without him. Even though his loss is more than I can bear, I would do it all over again. Without hesitation.
I’ve been trying to think of an appropriate way to describe him to those of you who weren’t lucky enough to know him or share a rope. This is what keeps coming to mind. He burned the candle at both ends and carried a flame thrower.
With thanks for your thoughts and kindness,
Cindy
p.s. I invite you all to the service on Sunday. PM me for directions.
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gblauer
Moderator
Oct 29, 2004, 1:24 AM
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Cindy, That was a moving and lovely tribute. My condolences.
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xcmntgeek
Oct 30, 2004, 1:05 AM
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Thanks to all of the family who has posted their thoughts and experiences- how hard it must have been is impossible to imagine. The climbing community is a very tight nit group and this thread shows the support we should all show for each other. Remember, when you're out and up the trust we hold in our community is an important thing. thanks again to all, and my condolences.
Justin
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mother_sheep
Nov 1, 2004, 9:55 PM
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Cindy, Brittney, Alexi and family. . .My friends and I were at the memorial yesterday and we all walked away feeling the same way. After meeting all of you and watching Alexi's video and the movies of Angus, one thing is for certain and my friend Michael said it best. . ."Angus set a great example about how to live LARGE!" Thank you for allowing us into your home. I hope that your hearts heal soon. You have a wonderful family and circle of old friends and new friends around you.
And Brittney, PM me when you want to climb. We can go to the gym first.
Warm regards,
Tracy
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bustinmins
Nov 1, 2004, 10:54 PM
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Cindy and family,
Thanks for welcoming me into your home for such a wonderful memorial to Angus. I'm sure he was looking down with quite the smile on his face. Surrounded by friends and family, you all are not alone. As I've said many times, if there is anything you need - just let me know. I'll be there just as quickly as possible.
I'd like to second what "Mother_Sheep" said, "If you want to go climb, just drop us a note." I'd be happy to take you to a gym or even outside as conditions permit. I realize that may not be something you're really ready to do but if and when that day does arrive, I'd love to have you along. This goes for the Russians too. You guys are always welcome!
It was nice to meet everyone and I hope to see you all again soon. However, we must make it a more joyous occassion next time. ;)
All my best to you and yours.
James Durden
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coloradosteve
Nov 2, 2004, 10:15 PM
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I'm up for practice sessions. I had a S/R course this late summer/fall. Gotta practive it to remember it..
Steve
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zozo
Nov 2, 2004, 11:17 PM
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coclimber26 taught me some basics over the summer but this is a priority of mine for next summer. If anyone wants to get together for practice or for a course let me know.
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nextascent
Nov 2, 2004, 11:43 PM
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In reply to: I'm up for practice sessions. I had a S/R course this late summer/fall. Gotta practive it to remember it.. Steve
Yea, I second that Steve....great course but really need to practice it. For me my learning need is; repeat/repeat/repeat.
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timstich
Nov 5, 2004, 3:25 PM
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OK, let's come up with a date to do this. I'll check my work schedule today and let you guys know. We could spend a few hours on escaping belays, ascending ropes with prusiks, and hauling, maybe get a few climbs in. Golden Cliffs is good for this, since it has both trad placements and solid bolt anchors to do the hauls from. Plus, it's not too tall and the rock is clean.
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mother_sheep
Nov 5, 2004, 3:38 PM
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I'd be in on this. I have some experience with self rescue but I don't practice nearly enough. I make a good dummy too. Wait. . .I mean victim. I'd make a good victim. One that you guys can rescue.
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cabdog
Nov 5, 2004, 4:23 PM
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Can I get in on this? I used to be pretty good with this stuff, but it's been a while.
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reno
Nov 5, 2004, 4:29 PM
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In reply to: One that you guys can rescue.
Rescue? Did someone say Mother_sheep needed a rescue?
One flight paramedic, coming right up. ;)
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mother_sheep
Nov 5, 2004, 4:31 PM
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In reply to: In reply to: One that you guys can rescue. Rescue? Did someone say Mother_sheep needed a rescue? One flight paramedic, coming right up. ;)
AHAHAHA! Hey Jeff!!!!
I nominate Amber to be our victim.
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killclimbz
Nov 10, 2004, 6:00 PM
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KMGH has posted some info on what happened. Go ahead and look at it for those who are interested. I don't think this is something that should printed on this thread.
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bustinmins
Nov 10, 2004, 9:12 PM
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Thanks for the update. Hope your backcountry adventures are going well.
Talk to you soon,
JD
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robdotcalm
Nov 10, 2004, 9:47 PM
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Thanks for the reference, which reports death caused by strangulation from a gear sling. The question to which we will probably never know the answer: Was the sling set properly so that it went from the neck and then over one arm with part of the sling under the arm? I remember when I first started climbing being instructed that all slings should be worn in this fashion to avoid the possibility of strangulation. It's possible that the sling was properly set and in the fall moved into the more dangerous position of hanging directly from the neck and not going under either arm. I have seen 2 falls in which the climber has upended and had the gear sling fall off (one was on the 2nd pitch of Werk Supp) so this is more than just a theoretic possibility.
I hope none are offended by mentioning this, but it does seem appropriate to discuss this safety issue brought to the fore in the referenced accident report.
robDotCalm
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mbg
Nov 10, 2004, 9:55 PM
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FWIW, the Denver NPR station gave a brief mention to Angus's accident this morning in their local news segment. Not sure why the story was brought up now since I didn't catch the beginning of the report, but it was probably due to the findings of the county officials. Thankfully the radio story only had good things to say about him and his partner, they didn't serve up the typical "foolish climber" tone that we usually see in these situations.
BG
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cordata
Nov 13, 2004, 4:21 PM
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Here in Texas I'm joining the discussion a little late.
A week or so ago a non-climbing friend in Denver mentioned there was an accident in Eldo. I searched around a little for details, didn't find any, forgot about it. Then yesterday during a slow afternoon I was poking around RC.com and saw the words "Angus" and "accident" together and had a sinking feeling.
I climbed with Angus this past July - I arrived in CO somewhat earlier than my friends from Dallas and had been sending PMs to several folks on this thread hoping to get a partner for my slack day. I can't remember exactly how it worked out but Angus turned out to be my partner for that day.
When I first met him I think I was a little leery -- he looked a little rough around the edges. But talk to him for 30 seconds and you could see he had a heart of gold. Angus talked very frankly about a lot of the things in his life - he'd had some ups and downs but didn't appear to have any regrets and was definitely looking ahead, not behind.
We had a great day of climbing. We took it easy and climbed at the Dome in Boulder Canyon. Angus gave me the impression of being a very safe and conservative climber. We did Cozyhang and East Slab. Angus was a great partner - he emphasized more than once that safety was more important than style (as I blew the onsight of the roof on Cozyhang)
I've only been climbing for a couple of years and this is the first time that someone I've known has been killed. It shows how small the climbing community (and maybe the world in general) really is. I don't know exactly how to react - it's very disturbing. I am glad, however, that I had a chance to meet and climb with Angus.
Here's a photo of Angus that I think captures a little bit of his spirit for those who never met him.
My heart goes out to his loved ones.
Dave
http://us.f1.yahoofs.com/...jpg?pht0plBBr.HYc8Y6
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f_thomas
Nov 13, 2004, 6:27 PM
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Cindy:
Hope you are still following the posts and messages. As I sat here reading your description of Angus my eyes filled with tears and my heart aches with the void left by such a loss.
The world could use a lot more people like Angus! A lot more like yourself and family, as well. When all is said and done the most important aspect of our existence is the beauty of the relationships we are blessed with in our short life. You were truly blessed and I'll bet Angus would say he was as well. So often, we too quickly turn away from those who don't fit our "picture" of normal - too easily swayed by first appearances - it's really a shame, God has many beautiful souls in the rough.
May God Bless You, your family and Angus' friends and help you all to keep the spirit of adventure, the love of life and love and respect for each other that Angus exhibited to all.
Sincerely:
Fred E Thomas
Solid Rock Climbers for Christ
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phile
Nov 14, 2004, 1:39 AM
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I was wandering around the fish products website and came across an (apparently old??) piece of fiction that contained a character named "Angus Alexander MacInnes." Is this just a strange climbing-world coincidence, or did they cross paths in the valley at some point?
http://www.fishproducts.com/mbs/LNLM2.html
I originally read the tributes to Angus by his friends and family with tears streaming down my face--it was very strange to come across such a similar name a few weeks later. Heartfelt condolences to those who knew him--he sounds like a wonderful person and a real character.
phile
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angus21
Nov 14, 2004, 6:01 PM
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Hi all:
It has been brought to my attention that the paypay email address is incorrect on my signature line. The correct email is creativeink1@msn.com. Also, any contributions can be made at any Wells Fargo Bank. Tell the teller you wish to deposit in the Angus McInnes Memorial Fund. Thanks for your generousity.
p.s. I have been trying to correct my signature line but haven't had any luck, yet.
Cindy
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angus21
Nov 26, 2004, 6:28 PM
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I want to thank all of you at rc.com for you compassion and support. It felt so good to have representatives of the climbing community attend Angus’ memorial service. I printed out the posts from rc.com and left them for all to read. It gave people a sense of what sort of person Angus was as a climber and I hope all of you climbers now have a sense of Angus as a fiancée, father, stepfather, son, brother, friend and all around maniac for life.
I know some of you have questions about Angus’ accident from a safety point of view. I’ll share with you what I found out from meeting with the Boulder Sheriff’s Office. I picked up Alexey and Kirill and we met Dave from the Sheriff’s office in Eldo. Angus had a map and route directions for Ant Hill in his pocket when he died. Evidently, they started climbing and got to the fourth pitch, about 450 feet up. At this point, instead of going to the right, he went to the left across a face that’s probably rated 5.8 (the rating is not documented in his climbing book so I’m going off what Dave said), but well within his climbing ability. My only thought here is he either thought he was on the fourth pitch (which shows to go to the left) but was actually on the fifth (which shows to go to the right) or he was trying to get to the big crack for some reason. Either way, he climbed across the right side face of a dihedral and was about 10’ to 15’ from the center when he slipped or a hold crumbled in his hand or something. He had 25’ of rope out because there wasn’t anywhere to place a piece of pro and was up and to the left of his last piece of pro. When he fell, he became a pendulum and slammed into the right side of the dihedral and then back to the left. A hex nut from his rack became lodged in the rock on the left side of the dihedral and his arm was pulled up to about shoulder height. Because of the distance between the hex and his rack, the rack was pulled up and tight against the right side of his neck. He was wearing some webbing slings across his chest as well and his right arm was pinned between his body and the rocks. This caused his slings to be pulled down and tight against the left side of his neck. Both his carotid arteries were shut off and the flow of blood to his brain stopped. He was probably unconscious after the first hit (he had a severe cut to the left side of his head) so he died quickly and painlessly. The hex was fairly big and the left side was flush against the mountain but the right side was caught on a very thin flake. There was a pine needle next to his hex and the flake was the same width as the pine needle. Basically, less than an eighth of an inch wide. I don’t know how the hex held, it seemed so precarious, but it did. An eighth of an inch in any direction and he would have swung back to the middle directly beneath his last piece of pro and would still be alive. He would have been banged up, but his other injuries were not fatal. His back and neck were not broken. In fact, he had no broken bones at all.
According to Dave, in 50 years of search and rescue in Eldo, a similar event has never occurred. There were some reports of gear catching and saving a climber, but never of killing one. His rack and slings were worn properly, he had on a helmet, his pro was placed correctly and held as intended. It seems this truly was a freak accident without an explanation. I cannot believe that a flake so thin could catch and hold a hex like it did. It absolutely boggles the mind.
As for those of us left behind, we are struggling through a world lessened by his loss. But I still feel his spirit is with us. The other night we went to the Melting Pot for dinner and my youngest (she’s 13) told me someone had carved A + C on the side of the table. Sure enough, upon investigation, there it was. Jut like on the tree where we had carved
A + C during our first camping trip. For those of you not familiar with the Melting Pot, it’s not the type of restaurant where you would expect to find graffiti on the tables. This is the restaurant where we celebrated Angus’ birthday shortly after we met and was one of his favorite places. I know it may seem superstitious but the statistical chances of sitting at this table, in his favorite restaurant, with a carving exactly like the one he and I made, in front of probably the only person that would notice such a thing just seem astronomical.
So, thank you for your messages of comfort. They are appreciated more than you will ever realize.
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cragmom
Sep 29, 2014, 9:35 PM
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This is Cindy. As the 10 year anniversary approaches, I just want to say a heartfelt "thank you" to the many climbers who took me under their wing and taught me how to climb after Angus died. Your kindness will always warm my heart.
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