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jt512
Aug 21, 2002, 5:02 PM
Post #26 of 31
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Registered: Apr 12, 2001
Posts: 21904
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Quote:
Let me know when you need a belay for Twist Of Fate 5.13b, and I'll be your slave.
Well, I think you're off the hook for at least a couple seasons. Besides, at the rate you're improving, I'll be your belay slave on it.
Quote:Don't expect me to clean it though...
That's why there are fixed draws on it. It'll never need to be cleaned.
Quote:Ya know... I pass those same people on Stream Wall each time I come in to Williamson. Another good point.
Yup. Happens at every crag. You'll see the same thing at the Planet of the Apes wall at Malibu Creek.
-Jay
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fitz
Aug 21, 2002, 5:14 PM
Post #27 of 31
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Registered: Jul 15, 2002
Posts: 363
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Collegekid, it isn't just just about "plateau". There are definately other ways to push yourself than pronator and lat agony. Hit the Cirque of Towers in Wyoming, there is a 5.3-5.4 pitch there that is a mind blower. Climb Clyde Minaret, perched near 12,000' on a rocky pinnacle about the size of my desk, even power bars taste good.
5.6 or not, the blind step around on Left Ski Track at Tahquitz is thrilling, as is the first time search for the hidden jug on High Exposure in the Gunks. Some of my favorite memories are mini epics, being snowed off a route and really pulling together as a team, having a squirel chew through a backpack and steal a partner's lunch, mail, and car keys...
What we were climbing at the time now seems secondary. Again, enjoy the ride.
-jjf
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jds100
Aug 22, 2002, 7:18 PM
Post #28 of 31
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Registered: Aug 5, 2001
Posts: 1008
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Another aspect of "criticising" what appears to be an excessive attention paid to numbers, is that 5.13 means a lot of different things on different routes and different rock, let alone different climbing areas around the world. A 13 crack is much different than a 13 roof, or a 13 crimp fest, or a 13 slab, etc.
I think you'd do better to find a different way to motivate yourself, than to become obsessed with the numbers that someone else has attached to a route. Hopefully, with time you'll be able to look at route or problem, and just be interested or attracted to trying it, irrespective of a rating. I think numbers can be only one of many ways of helping us gauge our own progress. A number would never automatically mean that I enjoyed the route.
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melonhead
Aug 22, 2002, 8:24 PM
Post #29 of 31
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Registered: Mar 18, 2002
Posts: 295
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Dude, you could work a route of any grade and WILL get it. Does that make you, say a 5.13 climber. Nope. When you can climb ANY route of that grade, then you get the status.
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danwilli
Aug 22, 2002, 8:52 PM
Post #30 of 31
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Registered: Apr 15, 2002
Posts: 220
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collegekid (Picture the owl from the Totsie roll Pop comercial) 1.... 2.... 3..... It takes 3 hours to get to the top of a 5.13 climb.
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dustinap
Deleted
Aug 22, 2002, 9:07 PM
Post #31 of 31
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On plastic routes it took me about two and a half years to reach 5.13B(almost red pointed it). I haven't done anything harder then mid 5.11 outside yet. Maybe I would have reached that grade for inside routes earlier on, but I had a bouldering injury. Now, my first 5.13 inside I led. I don't boulder much anymore for obvious reasons, but I've onsighted v4. I try not to get to stuck up on grades though, it's about how much fun you're having.
I have no idea how long it takes for people to progress in bouldering around V6, but that is how my improvements have gone. It took me along time just to be able to boulder V2 and to TR a 5.8.
P.S. I like climbing hard stuff
[ This Message was edited by: dustinap on 2002-08-22 14:12 ]
[ This Message was edited by: dustinap on 2002-08-22 14:13 ]
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