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piton


Dec 11, 2003, 8:22 PM
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go climb at vedauwoo and lets if you tape up :roll:


Partner holdplease2


Dec 11, 2003, 8:35 PM
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Personal Opinion:

I think that taped hands on a climber add to the "hottness" factor. Scabs on the hands do not. Tape is hotter than chalk, too.

Therefore, in the game of reproduction, is tape cheating? -

-Kate.


redpiton


Dec 11, 2003, 8:51 PM
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In reply to:
One reason I asked:

I have artificial tendons in my left hand. They neither get stronger, nor do they get weak and tired.

Now THAT'S cheating!!!! :o

Why do you have artificial tendons...and where can I get some?

I'm sorry, i'm just being facetious, but I am more than curious.... :?


victorjohn


Dec 11, 2003, 8:57 PM
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I know next to nothing, but maybe being new and ignorant is just the key to resolving this discourse.

Isn't there a point at which all of us experience the same thing? This being that no reasonable amount of tape (and I am speaking strictly of tape) will aid us in climbing that certain route simply because we haven't yet developed the strength and or skill?

Some of the irritated tones here would be more appropriate were this a discussion about using giant tape balls to make handles for a crack. I mean, we are talking about taping hands and fingers to ease a bit of pain. It is not like anyone here ever climbed even one grade higher based on tape alone, or even got a truly significant advantage from using it.

On the other hand, I have noticed that when I shave using the Gillette Mach3, with a particular Noxema shaving cream... I send routes 2 full grades up. I think that the closer shave keeps away wind drag. I felt it to be unethical climbing so I didn't spray. I thought I might never actually mention the shaved sends. The relevance to the deep, deep importance of distinguishing taped sends from untaped is uncanny, and so I thought it merited a bit of disclosure.

**Note that I will continue my ethical approach and will never claim a send if I have shaved with such. I mean, this may upset the global understanding of the route grading system, I fear, even more than the more petty issues like over-bolting and chipping holds... and we know what a ruckus those little things can cause. :roll:


madriver


Dec 11, 2003, 8:58 PM
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...I think peter croft is in rehab from tape abuse....


cloudbreak


Dec 11, 2003, 9:23 PM
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Bow to the Troll!


epic_ed


Dec 11, 2003, 11:13 PM
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Look everybody! The monkey is answering his own troll!!

In reply to:
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hello_heino [ 35 Posts ]

drkodos [ 2 Posts ]


Nice...


chingas


Dec 12, 2003, 12:23 AM
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When is a troll no longer funny, and just becomes annoying?


daryl314


Dec 12, 2003, 1:23 AM
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Since people are talking about whether tape would be cheating, how's this for a hypothetical situation? You have this heinous boulder problem with a crimp that you aren't strong enough to use. What if you taped your hand in a crimp grip and wrapped enough duct tape around it so it wouldn't move, essentially turning your hand into a hook. Would that work? And would it be cheating?


karlbaba


Dec 12, 2003, 2:22 AM
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I've climbed the Nose on El Cap without using tape and had no problems. (I forgot it if you must know) But I don't think tape is cheating except in rare and extreme cases. Everybody has a different sized hand, changing the size of your hand with tape can help but it only takes you so far, all of a sudden your hand is too big for what used to be bomber.

Gals like Steph Davis and free solo some 11d thin hand crack cause it's not thin hands for her. Dean Potter has about the best crack technique around but taped for a crack boulder problem in Masters of Stone 5 cause the thing was chewing up his hands too much.

Experienced crack climbers rarely use tape except on long climbs and rough rock climbs because the tape restricts the flexing of the hand muscules that make jamming work.

Peace

Karl


jorgle


Dec 12, 2003, 9:35 PM
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This is why you use tape.
http://www.rockclimbing.com/...p.cgi?Detailed=22122

and no they are not my hands.


majoringinclimbing


Dec 13, 2003, 1:06 AM
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If you don't think tape should be used then spend a week at Vedauwoo. We'll see where you stand on the issue then!!


dynoer


Dec 13, 2003, 8:07 AM
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If someone believes taping up for crack climb is cheating well then it would also make sense that using shoes and chalk would be cheating too!


nagatana


Dec 13, 2003, 8:13 AM
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In reply to:
Look everybody! The monkey is answering his own troll!!

Maybe it's 'cause he was starting an otherwise legitimate discussion?


karmaklimber


Dec 13, 2003, 8:46 AM
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Go ahead and call me a cheater, but atleast my tendons will be less likely to pop.


studs


Dec 13, 2003, 11:47 AM
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I have climbed the majority of the hard cracks at Vedauwoo without tape.Its all about technique and power.The beauty of climbing is searching for the limit and finding that there is none.Dont kid yourself .Tape helps alot.If I cant do a climb a particular day without tape,I surrender and return another day.


ambler


Dec 13, 2003, 2:14 PM
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In reply to:
In reply to:
Look everybody! The monkey is answering his own troll!!

Maybe it's 'cause he was starting an otherwise legitimate discussion?
Did you read the "answer" in question?


photon


Dec 13, 2003, 3:00 PM
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Look everybody! The monkey is answering his own troll!!

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hello_heino [ 35 Posts ]

drkodos [ 2 Posts ]


Nice...

you figured it out 2


nagatana


Dec 13, 2003, 4:29 PM
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drkodos' vaginal post?


melow


Dec 13, 2003, 4:40 PM
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Really it depends on what type of climbing you do. If you climb for the sole purpose of telling others how hard you can climb, Then things that make it easier for you, regardless of others opinions, is cheating. If you climb because you love to climb, caring not for what anybody else thinks, Than all that matters is how you feel.


Partner rrrADAM


Dec 13, 2003, 5:15 PM
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I think it's a personall preference... I started climbing cracks with taped hands, but have never taped up in the last 3 1/2 years, and I climb a lot of cracks.

Mostly I am too lazy to tape them up now, and it isn't all that necessary now, as I rarely scrape them to hell, and I can deal with the pain in the sharp granular cracks.


vivalargo


Dec 26, 2003, 10:39 PM
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Yo, ho, ho . . .

This business about climbing Pisano Overhang with boxing gloves was something we started a joke and it's still circulating nearly 30 years later. It wasn't true then and it ain't now but it's a whopper too good to die, apparently.

During my early years in the Valley I used to tape up here and there, especially for wide hand cracks where flappers were often. Once my hands got tough and my technique sound, I rarely taped.

Tape does not make cracks "easy" because the stuff naturally decreases circulation, restricts your hand's ability to expand, and tends to give a bit just when you don't want such a thing happening. A very thin tape job or an equally careful one can keep you from getting horendous lesions when crystals line the crack, etc.

Suit yourself, per taping. We always did.

JL


epic_ed


Dec 26, 2003, 10:42 PM
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Yeah, but what the heck do you know? :roll: :mrgreen:

Thanks for the input, and the history lesson. That overhang is one wicked looking monster.

Ed


Partner rrrADAM


Dec 28, 2003, 3:27 AM
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Pisano Overhang / The Witch's Nose
http://www.rockclimbing.com/...mp.cgi?Detailed=6645


esoteric1


Dec 28, 2003, 3:57 PM
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nice pic!
I climb in josh alot...if someone`s gona call me a cheater cause i wanna keep the skin on the back of my hands, so I can have more consecutive climbing days, so be it.
it wont stop me from taping up
mark

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