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oudinardin
Mar 20, 2004, 3:01 AM
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In reply to: Are there really any unsung alpine heroes? I mean I'm sure there are boulderers and sporto's pushing the limits while keeping a low profile (considering how cutting edge stuff in this field really requires taking into account the subjectiveness of grades and the differene between microcrimpers and microslimpers etc.). I mean there's an 8-year old girl who can send V8 I think... but what about the alpine? Is this kind of thing possible in that arena? The difficulties and magnitude of these ascents are so much different than pure hard rock.
Bold? An as$hole? Yeah. Honest? You bet I am. I've been climbing more alpine routes than any other and one of my 4 jobs for the past 5 years is a climbing instructor. Glad you brought this up. Alpine has everything and I'll just leave it at that. Work is busy. Alpine- the list could go on. From the area I live in: Jack Tackle, Clark Alexis, Mark Newcomb (both father and son), and since this thread sucked me in, once again I have to mention Alex Lowe. I ski now (backcountry) with some TGR people and have paddled with a few on the Gallatin river. The answer to your question is yes. We are everywhere but most of us do not have cameras etc. to document climbs/ski descents nor do we want to post our new climb down at the Barrel Mountaineering store. Too much info, but it is an interesting topic. THE BACKCOUNTRY IS CROWDED ENOUGH!! Peace Oud.
Edited to include: P.S. Scott Schmidt just checked in. Come on. The skier, dude. :roll: Edited once again for another spelling and grammer error. I'm sure someone would have pointed that out for me. Peace! I just heard a great Lowe story from Schmidt about George and Alex climbing, drinking etc. Sick. Anybody ski here. It's "year round", Yah know? AHHHHhh! Peace.
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kalcario
Mar 20, 2004, 3:50 AM
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*On top of all of that, his solo (and the only true solo) of Mount Everest in 1980 is perhaps the greates achievement in the climbing world, period. He was the *only* person on the entire mountain at the time and made a rapid ascent with a new variation up high. Beyond visionary.*
Did it ever occur to the people who list Dean Potter and various other Americans that maybe the best climber who ever lived actually might not be the guy with the most ink in the American climbing mags over the past 2 years?
Short answer: One of the Euros from the Golden Age of Alpinism-Heckmaier, Cassin, Bonatti, Buhl. Somebody would have to start cranking out 8000 meter Himalayan faces Alpine style, either solo or with a partner, consistently, to surpass that era. Messner did a couple and Humar's done one. So right now they're at the top of the heap.
Messner's Nanga Parbat thing was pretty rad, too-soloed a new route, earthquake hits and takes out his planned descent, down solos like a vertical mile of 60 degree ice in one day to escape. Tres Burlesque.
And the 2 Catalans, Nils Bohigas and Enric Lucas, who alpine styled S. Face Annapurna, I believe this is considered among the cognoscenti as the gnarliest Himalayan exploit of all time, with W Face of G4 a close second. Messner's NE Ridge of Everest has been repeated by literally hundreds of people, admittedly with exponentially more logistical support than Messner who had the entire mountain to himself, but you won't see any blind guys getting guided up the South Face of Annapurna anytime soon.
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kalcario
Mar 20, 2004, 3:57 AM
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*Greatest Big Wall
Robbins
Salathe
Chris Mac (go Chris)*
Except that John Salathe never did a big wall, the Salathe Wall on El Cap was named in honor of him, not because he did it. There were much harder and longer routes in the Alps and Dolomites in the 30's than Lost Arrow Chimney or Steck Salathe on Sentinel, neither of which present the objective dangers of the Alps.
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crag_rat
Mar 20, 2004, 7:48 PM
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It's funny no UK climbers have appeared on here yet... remembering we invented the sport...
What about the Ron Fawcett he did sooo much for the development of the hard climbing scene...
Or Chriss Bonington hes an absolouted legend in all areas...
Or Modern times... people like
- Ben Moon
- Jerry Moffat
- Seb Greive
- Leo Houlding
- Joe Simpson
Or very modern time ... people like
- Malcolm Smith
- Steve Mclure
- Matt Birch
Don't forget the Brits People..... :wink:
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hikerken
Mar 20, 2004, 10:13 PM
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As others have said, there is so much to this question, that it is basically impossible to answer as stated.
Earlier climbers were handicapped by equipment issues, and the difficulty just continues to get harder each year.
But I'd like to offer a different standard.
In the words of a contemporary and fictional sorcerer, Albus Dumbledor, in a speech to Harry Potter during which he states, “It is not our abilities that show who we really are, but the choices that we make.”
Sir Edmund Hillary will always stand out in climbing history, and if one were to go by fame, he would undoubtedly score first for the public.
However, what I am talking about is what he has done with his life and his fame. He has been an unwavering advocate for the Nepali people, and adventurers in general. Schools exist, and people are alive, because of his efforts. He has taken his fame, and used it to make the lives of others, better. This has been what his life has really been about. The climbing world has been tremendously enhanced by what Hillary has done, and he is universally adored, by climbers and non-climbers alike.
When any other climber you can mention walks into a room with Hillary, they are clearly second tier.
We, in the climbing world, should think about what we value. Those we hold in high value says a lot about US.
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vertical_planar
Mar 20, 2004, 11:08 PM
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[quote="crag_rat"]It's funny no UK climbers have appeared on here yet... remembering we invented the sport...
Remember this site is as american as it can go.
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dood
Mar 22, 2004, 3:28 AM
Post #32 of 61
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In reply to: Reinhold Messner without a doubt. In his early days he was an excellent rock climber, establishing some of the most difficult routes in the Dolomites, free soloing new routes of up to 3000 feet in length at the highest grades of the day. His solo of the Les Droite in the late 60's was visionary and totally blew the climbing world away. He understood the progression and development of every aspect of the sport. His two man, alpine style, ascent of an 8000-meter peak in the mid 70's was mind-blowing and again exceptionally visionary. He and Habeler were the first men to climb Everest without oxygen. On top of all of that, his solo (and the only true solo) of Mount Everest in 1980 is perhaps the greates achievement in the climbing world, period. He was the *only* person on the entire mountain at the time and made a rapid ascent with a new variation up high. Beyond visionary. Messner has left his mark at the highest standard on rock, snow and ice. Everybody else is just standing on his shoulders, and barely at that. Bruce
The greatest climber in history was Hermann Buhl, and the greatest climb was Buhl's solo climb of Nanga Parbat in 1953, without oxygen, complete with bivouac.
Reinhold Messner's "mind blowing" ascent of an 8000 meter peak was only 20 years after Hermann Buhl, Kurt Diemberger, Marcus Schmuck, and Fritz Wintersteller's "westalpin" style summit of 8000 meter Broad Peak.
"Beyond visionary"? Messner is an incredibly great climber, but his vision is only an extension of the style pioneered by Buhl. Read his book about Buhl.
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kalcario
Mar 22, 2004, 3:45 AM
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*Messner is an incredibly great climber, but his vision is only an extension of the style pioneered by Buhl. Read his book about Buhl.*
After, of course, you get it straight from the horse's mouth and read Lonely Challenge by Hermann Buhl.
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Wintersteller
Nov 24, 2006, 8:30 PM
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[reply][quote]Reinhold Messner without a doubt. In his early days he was an excellent rock climber, establishing some of the most difficult routes in the Dolomites, free soloing new routes of up to 3000 feet in length at the highest grades of the day. His solo of the Les Droite in the late 60's was visionary and totally blew the climbing world away. He understood the progression and development of every aspect of the sport. His two man, alpine style, ascent of an 8000-meter peak in the mid 70's was mind-blowing and again exceptionally visionary. He and Habeler were the first men to climb Everest without oxygen.
On top of all of that, his solo (and the only true solo) of Mount Everest in 1980 is perhaps the greates achievement in the climbing world, period. He was the *only* person on the entire mountain at the time and made a rapid ascent with a new variation up high. Beyond visionary.
Messner has left his mark at the highest standard on rock, snow and ice. Everybody else is just standing on his shoulders, and barely at that.
Bruce[/quote]
The greatest climber in history was Hermann Buhl, and the greatest climb was Buhl's solo climb of Nanga Parbat in 1953, without oxygen, complete with bivouac.
Reinhold Messner's "mind blowing" ascent of an 8000 meter peak was only 20 years after Hermann Buhl, Kurt Diemberger, Marcus Schmuck, and Fritz Wintersteller's "westalpin" style summit of 8000 meter Broad Peak.
"Beyond visionary"? Messner is an incredibly great climber, but his vision is only an extension of the style pioneered by Buhl. Read his book about Buhl.[/reply]
I like your thoughts!
Kind regards,
Fritz W. Wintersteller
Broad Peak Club
[url]www.broadpeak.org[/url]
[url]www.summitpost.org/mountain/rock/155105/skil-brum.html[/url]
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ihategrigris
Nov 24, 2006, 8:58 PM
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Sylvester Stallone.
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sungam
Nov 24, 2006, 9:47 PM
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It depends on what you are talking about.
Person to send the hardest ever route? see hardest routes thread.
Person to climb the hardest/boldest/mostest insanest thing for the age/equipment/other stuff done at the time alpine?
Edward Wymper. Think about it.
Most insane Soloist? Can say I know the answer to this.
Mallory?
But then, isn't the best climber the one having the most fun? Then that would be changing all the time. When I was 3/4ers the way up "Cathy, VS 4C" at Rosyth quarry, that was probobly me.
By the sounds he made, It was Dean Potter just after soloing "overhanging crack" in yosemite.
Then great can also mean also refer to their effect on the community. Dan Osman inspired millions, as does dean potter, with their well media-covered exploits. Inspires me.
-Magnus
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the_climber
Nov 24, 2006, 11:38 PM
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Reinhold Messner, Alex Lowe, Greg Lowe, Wolfgang, Barry Blanchard, Will Gadd, Mark Twight, Mallory, Irvine, Hillary, Tenzing Norgay, Todd Skinner, Wayne Murry, Royal Robins,... the list goes on and on!
Why do I think These are some of the "Greatest Climbers of all Time"?
Because they have collectively inspired generations to take the lifestyle they loved and aply it to their own lives. I truely wish I could say I have met all on this list and more, but I have only met in person Will and Barry (add to it Rapheal Slawinski, Scott Semple, Sean Isaac, Steve House, and a few others).
Simply for one reason do I hold these people in high regard. They have inspired others. One of the geatest climbers to me personally is Ruben Rokosh. Although I haven't seen him in 7 or 8 years (and haven't talked to him in atleast 5 or 6 years... I think I'll track him down), I can honestly say that he taught more to me than I can say. Because of the value he placed on safely during the first few years of my climbing career I understand the value of safety. I can still hear his words of advice... "a double check can be good for everyone else, but tripple chech if you have to, just be safe."
Ruben If you read this drop me a line so we can climb sometime. I truely hope life is treating you good my friend.
In short. The greatest CLIMBERS of all time are the ones who inspire us the most in our climbing lives. Plain and simple. There are climbers who inspire us to achieve safer standards, higher grades, intensity, perseverence, ecetera(sp?)
The ones who inspire and teach us are the greatest of all.
-Brenden
(This post was edited by the_climber on Oct 7, 2009, 10:27 PM)
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vanclimber
Nov 25, 2006, 12:11 AM
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John Gill
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ridgeclimber
Nov 25, 2006, 12:22 AM
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All the ones that have been mentioned, and jeff lowe. He really revolutionized ice climbing.
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quiteatingmysteak
Nov 25, 2006, 12:47 AM
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climbing is too diverse for just one... ill have to do catagories :D
British:
Bonnington
American big wall:
Robbins
American *pop* climber:
Caldwell
Euro:
Messner
Boulderer:
Nichole
Boldest:
barber
Strongest:
Wolfgang. If it weren't for his unfortunate demise he would put world standards 10 years ahead of what it is now. And yet he was human -- he took a few falls on bachar-Yerian just like a real person would :D
All around (and this fits CANADIAN catagory as well :D):
Sonnie Trotter
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healyje
Nov 25, 2006, 1:32 AM
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Harold Lloyd
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SoloJoe
Nov 25, 2006, 1:38 AM
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Soloist: Dan Osmond
Big Wall: Tommy Caldwell, Alex Huber
Bouldering: David Graham
Indoor Comp: Nels Rossasen
Female: Josune Bereziartu
Ice: Will Gadd, Ines Papert
Future: David Lama
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gargrantuan
Nov 25, 2006, 3:37 AM
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Hermann Buhl and Walter Bonatti are the "classic" choices. Bonatti outlived Buhl though. I would never argue with anyone who chooses either of them. Of course that means we are leaving out Lachenal, Rebuffat, Herzog and whole host of brilliant climbers.
Jerzy Kukuczka has to be included with Messner in terms of the "modern" movement of alpinism. Personally, other than Messner's solo on Everest, I think Kukuczka's Himilayan record is more impressive. But Messner is still alive and Kukuczka is not.
Nowadays we have so many people to choose from: the Lowes (Alex, George, and Jeff), JC Lafaille, a bunch of Slovenians whose names I can't sound out let alone spell, Fred Beckey, Barry Blanchard, Steve House, Erhart Loretan, Mark Twight, Dave Cheesemond, and more than I can't recall because I am high.
So the answer is either Buhl, Bonatti, Messner, or Kukuczka. Everyone else is too new to be considered, except maybe Loretan who has an impressive CV.
The only Brit worth mentioning is Alison Hargreaves.
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bman505
Nov 25, 2006, 3:40 AM
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impossosible to pick just one, so here's my list
john bachar
peter croft
john sherman
derek hersey
wolfgang gulich
ron kauk
lynn hill
dean potter
BT
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awilson86
Nov 25, 2006, 3:10 PM
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the greatest climber is the climber having the most fun.
everyone here needs to remember why we do what we do. for the thrill, for the fun, for the ascent. not for recognition.
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quiteatingmysteak
Nov 25, 2006, 5:16 PM
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awilson86 wrote: the greatest climber is the climber having the most fun. everyone here needs to remember why we do what we do. for the thrill, for the fun, for the ascent. not for recognition.
fun doesnt get you babes and shwag mang!
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musicman1586
Nov 26, 2006, 12:07 AM
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[quote "crag_rat"]It's funny no UK climbers have appeared on here yet... remembering we invented the sport...
What about the Ron Fawcett he did sooo much for the development of the hard climbing scene...
Or Chriss Bonington hes an absolouted legend in all areas...
Or Modern times... people like
- Ben Moon
- Jerry Moffat
- Seb Greive
- Leo Houlding
- Joe Simpson
Or very modern time ... people like
- Malcolm Smith
- Steve Mclure
- Matt Birch
Don't forget the Brits People..... :wink:[/quote]
Uh, how about adding Johnny Dawes to that list, as he was the guy that pioneered alot of the routes that made those other guys famous in doing their repeats.
Another vote/addition for these guys: Lynn Hill, Ron Kauk, Tommy Caldwell, Ramon Julian, Dani Andrada, Paxti Usiobaga, Iker Pou, and yes, I will say it, David Graham, because I love his technique and style.
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madclimbr13
Nov 26, 2006, 12:46 AM
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Alex Lowe hands down, other favs are....
Conrad Ankor
Chris Sharma
Scott Fisher
Didier Berthoud
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punk_rocker333
Nov 26, 2006, 3:31 PM
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My personal heros for inspiration are Fred Beckey, Tommy Caldwell and Dean Potter. I haven't read much about the early history of climbing so I should probably investigate that more.
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kachoong
Nov 26, 2006, 8:26 PM
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For me there are many.... I love to hear of stories by fairly unknown climbers, some of which could well be better climbers than any famous climber. There are plenty of humble and modest climbers out there who achive a shit-load and we never hear about it.
Of those whom are well-known, inspiration to my climbing have been:
Steve House
Mark Twight
Rheinhold Messner
Lynn Hill
Kitty Calhoun
Don Whillans
Tommy Caldwell
Jim Doninni
Alex Lowe
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