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cfnubbler
Aug 24, 2005, 6:52 PM
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In reply to: So what do you call english quebeckers? If they're obnoxious enough whilst vacationing here, they are Queebs too.
In reply to: And do you pronounce it Kweebs or Keebs? Why "Kweeb", of course. How do you pronounce it?
In reply to: I call Vermonters plaid-wearing patchouli-smelling pseudo-socialist trustafarians who suck at the cock of Phish. I resent that. I don't own a stitch of plaid.
In reply to: So we're all good, right? Right. :wink: -Nubbler
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caughtinside
Aug 24, 2005, 6:54 PM
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In reply to: In reply to: BTW, browsing through the Yosemite big walls book, I have yet to see a wall that hasn't been littered with bolts or rivits, heinously chipped, or beaten out with a hammer. Now that's proud! Well, educate yourself a little more on a style of climbing with way more history than yours. Actually, I've read a fair bit about the progression of aid climbing, in regards to El Cap. And truth be told, I don't have any problems with the alteration/destruction of the rock up there. But when people tell me that this is ok, while placing a bolt is not, I think that's stupid. Generally, the only thing that makes clean aid possible on these big walls is the hundreds of pin scars from earlier parties. To come along later, climb them clean, and then hold yourself on some sort of ethical pedestal smacks of hypocrisy. As evidence, I point you to every route on El Cap. And it was nice of you to disregard the fact that every El Cap route has fixed gear on it. At the end of this little discussion, I can really only conclude that you're a troll. You've never answered any questions put to you, just dodged them with a trite "that's nice" or something. Nice job!
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jelliott
Aug 24, 2005, 6:58 PM
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In reply to: One of these people is writing like a child. The other is laughing. Which one? and why are they called peppers? Man this world is confusing
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changling
Aug 24, 2005, 7:04 PM
Post #79 of 159
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In reply to: Actually, I've read a fair bit about the progression of aid climbing, in regards to El Cap. Well, I can tell you right now that big wall climbing isn't limited to the city called Yosemite, and that aid climbing isn't limited to big walls.
In reply to: And truth be told, I don't have any problems with the alteration/destruction of the rock up there. But when people tell me that this is ok, while placing a bolt is not, I think that's stupid. Did I say that it was okay?
In reply to: Generally, the only thing that makes clean aid possible on these big walls is the hundreds of pin scars from earlier parties. To come along later, climb them clean, and then hold yourself on some sort of ethical pedestal smacks of hypocrisy. As evidence, I point you to every route on El Cap. Like I said, educate yourself on the style. Maybe even try it yourself so that you can have a little bit of first hand experience.
In reply to: And it was nice of you to disregard the fact that every El Cap route has fixed gear on it. I did? Please tell me when?
In reply to: At the end of this little discussion, I can really only conclude that you're a troll. You've never answered any questions put to you, just dodged them with a trite "that's nice" or something. Nice job! What questions were they again? I don't remember dodging any questions.
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shakylegs
Aug 24, 2005, 7:07 PM
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In reply to: If they're obnoxious enough whilst vacationing here, they are Queebs too. Not to worry, I don’t vacation there. I usually just pass through Vermont on my way to some place more interesting. Like Gorham, NH. Although, truth be told, I do try to flick my share of cigarette butts onto your highways. Consider it my little contribution.
In reply to: Why "Kweeb", of course. How do you pronounce it? Keeb. As in Quebec. Duh.
In reply to: I resent that. I don't own a stitch of plaid. Oh, but admit it, you’re dying to hit the Old Navy at the Church street market, aren’t you?
In reply to: So we're all good, right? You do know I'm taking the piss, don't you?
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cfnubbler
Aug 24, 2005, 7:17 PM
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In reply to: I usually just pass through Vermont on my way to some place more interesting. Like Gorham, NH. Now that's low. Really below the belt.
In reply to: you’re dying to hit the Old Navy at the Church street market, aren’t you? Why yes, actually. In my fantasy, with something sufficiently large to level the fu(king place.
In reply to: You do know I'm taking the piss, don't you? Yes. And me to. This thread was boring the living sh@t out of me and I thought I'd have a little fun with my neighbors to the north to make it more amusing. Particularly since Changling was making such an ass out of herself and appears to reside in Montreal. And actually, I quite like Quebec. You have some good rock, great ice, and the best redlight district on the east coast....Viv Rue St. Catherine! (or something like that)... -Nubbler PS- The Biodome is pretty cool too. Nice Beaver.
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leaverbiner
Aug 24, 2005, 7:23 PM
Post #82 of 159
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In reply to: In reply to: That's why it's funny. You're making a huge deal out of an aid practice line. I'm not making a huge deal. I'm just having fun here. In reply to: It's these hard and fast 'thou shalt not bolt' ethics that are just stupid. The route was climbed without bolts. In reply to: A lame aid climb might make a cutting edge free climb. s---, I've retrobolted a s--- aid climb myself, and it only goes at .11b. Good for you. In reply to: With regards to people who free aid lines in general, you are saying that. Beth Rodden, Tommy Caldwell, the Hubers, Todd Skinner, etc, have all added bolts or used bolts added to aid climbs. I said that? In reply to: So all you've really demonstrated is your ignorance of what goes into freeing a long aid line. I know what goes into it. What I find funny is that if someone objects to an aid line being bolted, the reply they get is "stop being a crybaby LCD just because you can't climb as hard as sharma." Even though Sharma couldn't climb the route as it was. In reply to: It's too bad your little world is so black and white, and leaves no room for progression. No one aid climbs Astroman anymore. That's too bad. In reply to: But, by your rationale, something that's been climbed once, however lame, can never be altered. What's lame is that everyone must make way for sport climbers. Call is the wave of the future. I'll call it by something else. In reply to: It has nothing to do with Sharma, I don't really care. But I do like hearing about cutting edge climbing, and a 80 foot A3 that no one does falls short of that. How do you know no one was climbing it? And who says that the now bolted line will be "cutting edge"? In reply to: If your whole beef is about bolts 'littering' the route, well then lets get rid of bolts all together. Oh wait, aid climbing big walls wouldn't be possible. What? Now who is the one showing ignorance here? Big walls wouldn't be possible without bolts? HA! What a joke! In reply to: Sharma's a sissy? Ok. And you're a spineless internet wanker. I climb what I feel like. The difference it that I don't alter established routes to suit my purposes. I adapt to the route, not adapt the route to suit me. But you can keep kissing Sharma's ass while he top-ropes bolted lines in the gym, which btw, I don't frown upon because he looked like he was enjoying himself. You are such a hypocrite and so ignorant! The facts are - the "route" was only ever aided. Therefore it was not climbed, it was not freed! The people that ascended the route did so by manipulting the rock defacing the rock and essentially having big balls and strong legs. They did not climb, they ascended. Sharma, or whomever, has IMPROVED the route, and is attempting to actually CLIMB IT! There is no way you can say that bolting a route is somehow bringing a route down whilst spewing the love of AIDING! AID is not CLIMBING! I don't AID because I choose to climb instead. I am absolutely astounded that somone can beleive that pounding pins rurps, nails, etc . . . into rock with a hammer on a regular basis is somehow less damaging than having fixed protection. I truely hope that I have been trolled and/or that you simply like to provoke argument and that you don't actually subscribe to the views you have been spewing.
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changling
Aug 24, 2005, 7:24 PM
Post #83 of 159
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In reply to: Particularly since Changling was making such an ass out of herself and appears to reside in Montreal. Making an ass of myself? I resent that. :x
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jred
Aug 24, 2005, 7:30 PM
Post #84 of 159
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In reply to: In reply to: Particularly since Changling was making such an ass out of herself and appears to reside in Montreal. Making an ass of myself? I resent that. :x What is your aid exp. anyway? Have you ever even climbed in Squamish? What aid routes? Are you even familier with the line in question? Did you learn to aid in Montreal? I am calling bullshit.
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paulc
Aug 24, 2005, 7:30 PM
Post #85 of 159
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In reply to: In reply to: Particularly since Changling was making such an ass out of herself and appears to reside in Montreal. Making an ass of myself? I resent that. :x No, you represent that. Paul
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ambler
Aug 24, 2005, 7:42 PM
Post #87 of 159
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In reply to: In reply to: Particularly since Changling was making such an ass out of herself and appears to reside in Montreal. Making an ass of myself? I resent that. :x Naw, she's holding her own. Making a bunch of sport weenies sputter and bark, too. Still, it's a sad day for RC.com when this is the liveliest thread going.
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dingus
Aug 24, 2005, 7:45 PM
Post #88 of 159
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In reply to: The facts are - the "route" was only ever aided. Therefore it was not climbed, That's very funny. I guess Harding didn't climb the Nose afterall. I know you're just trolling and all, but that is a pretty stupid idea you have there. DMT
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jkarns
Aug 24, 2005, 7:47 PM
Post #89 of 159
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In reply to: Considering that the line was only for aid practice, I doubt it's much of a loss, but some of you guys are really funny thinking that Sharma can do whatever he wants because he climbs hard sport routes, even if it includes placing bolts on an established route which he didn't even climb. Basically, he littered the route. The fact that sharma was involved is irrelevant.
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changling
Aug 24, 2005, 7:48 PM
Post #90 of 159
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In reply to: 1. What is your aid exp. anyway? 2. Have you ever even climbed in Squamish? 3. What aid routes? 4. Are you even familier with the line in question? 5. Did you learn to aid in Montreal? 6. I am calling s---. 1. I lead a few single pitch lines up to C2. And cleaned some multipitch lines as well. 2. No, I was there for a day last spring but it was raining. Looked around in the area though. Nice, but not my cup of tea when it comes to what I look for in climbing. 3. Well, nothing in Squamish. What I have done in Quebec and the Adirondacks, they were free lines. Don't really know which. I just look for something nice and go. 4. Not particularly, but that isn't what I am adressing. What I am talking about it retro-bolting an established route just because the retro-bolter wants to do it in a different style. And then people saying it's okay because they think he is a super amazing climber even though he is very limited in the style he can climb and decided to impose his style on an existing route. 5. No, I learned with a guide in the Adirondacks. Someone who loves aid climbing and has plenty of experience climbing in various styles in various landscapes. 6. Call whatever you like.
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cfnubbler
Aug 24, 2005, 7:55 PM
Post #91 of 159
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In reply to: Still, it's a sad day for RC.com when this is the liveliest thread going. Ain't that the truth. Why, I've been reduced to Canadian-baiting just to try and liven things up a bit. Ambler, you're from New England...surely you appreciate taking the piss out of our neighbors to the north a bit, no? It's all in good fun, of course. -Nubbler
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shakylegs
Aug 24, 2005, 7:55 PM
Post #92 of 159
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In reply to: And actually, I quite like Quebec. You have some good rock, great ice, and the best redlight district on the east coast....Viv Rue St. Catherine! (or something like that)... -Nubbler PS- The Biodome is pretty cool too. Nice Beaver. Man, what is it with you folks and and your fascination with Ste-Catherine? Sure, we've got our share of strip clubs, but big whoop. Well, granted, you can go at lunchtime for the free buffet to go along with the show. And yeah, the national phone carrier also has a television network that shows porn at night. And, okay, we really are that good looking and are blessed with wit and charm. Sucks to be us (especially when you see how much is taken off our paycheques).
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jkarns
Aug 24, 2005, 7:56 PM
Post #93 of 159
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In reply to: In reply to: ]If your whole beef is about bolts 'littering' the route, well then lets get rid of bolts all together. Oh wait, aid climbing big walls wouldn't be possible. What? Now who is the one showing ignorance here? Big walls wouldn't be possible without bolts? HA! What a joke! Name the bolt free big walls, please.
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overlord
Aug 24, 2005, 7:57 PM
Post #94 of 159
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i thought retrobolting only applied to establieshed trad lines :roll:
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ambler
Aug 24, 2005, 8:05 PM
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In reply to: In reply to: Still, it's a sad day for RC.com when this is the liveliest thread going. Ain't that the truth. Why, I've been reduced to Canadian-baiting just to try and liven things up a bit. Ambler, you're from New England...surely you appreciate taking the piss out of our neighbors to the north a bit, no? It's all in good fun, of course. Years ago, I was in Europe working with an international group of students that included several Canadians. Being from the U.S., I had certain privileges, such as being the only one in the whole crew who had already seen the first South Park movie. "The U.S. declares war on Canada!" I said cheerfully. This seemed to confirm everyone's worst suspicions.
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changling
Aug 24, 2005, 8:16 PM
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In reply to: In reply to: In reply to: ]If your whole beef is about bolts 'littering' the route, well then lets get rid of bolts all together. Oh wait, aid climbing big walls wouldn't be possible. What? Now who is the one showing ignorance here? Big walls wouldn't be possible without bolts? HA! What a joke! Name the bolt free big walls, please. http://www.bigwalls.net/climb/Troll.html Italics are my own
In reply to: Dod At Alla/Prektige Blonde Vikinger (Death to All/Pretty Blond Vikings). VI, 5.11, A4. 600 meters (plus 400 meter approach ramp). First and only ascent in 10 days in winter 1986 by Aslak Aastorp, Oyvind Vadla, Bernt Pedersen, and Oystein Bardsnes. The first ascentionists did not have to place a single bolt on this magnificent overhanging crack and corner system on the right margin of the wall. The difficult approach to this route up a1500 foot ramp system is perhaps easier in winter, as it has caused a few failed attempts to repeat the route in summer. The first half of this route goes up thin aid cracks in clean compact granite (similar to the right side of El Cap), while the latter half continues up steep free climbing cracks. Tops out at the Bruraskaret Col, one of the spots where the BASE jumpers launch from. NOTE: In the small nearby town of Andalsnes, where all the town folks are familiar with the routes and climbers of the Troll, "Dod at Alla" has been renamed "The Cathedral" for tourist industry reasons. "Prektige" is difficult to translate (the direct translation means "excellent"), but infers a goody two-shoes meaning.
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ambler
Aug 24, 2005, 8:19 PM
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In reply to: In reply to: In reply to: ]If your whole beef is about bolts 'littering' the route, well then lets get rid of bolts all together. Oh wait, aid climbing big walls wouldn't be possible. What? Now who is the one showing ignorance here? Big walls wouldn't be possible without bolts? HA! What a joke! Name the bolt free big walls, please. Not quite bolt-free, but they tried pretty hard: Salathe Wall, FA 1961, 13 bolts W. Face of El Cap, FA 1967, 1 bolt or, more contemporary: Angel Falls, Rainbow Jambaya, described as having "nine E7 pitches (dangerous 5.12 or 5.13) and over half of the [31] pitches were E6 or above (5.12 without perfect gear).... We placed bolts only at some of the bivouacs."
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nateyoun
Aug 24, 2005, 8:23 PM
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if it followed a crack, why didn't they just free climb it?
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jkarns
Aug 24, 2005, 8:23 PM
Post #99 of 159
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In reply to: W. Face of El Cap, FA 1967, 1 bolt How many bolts do modern parties need, just to aid them? moder parties don't aid this climb, they free it!! (and that's a better style)
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cracklover
Aug 24, 2005, 8:25 PM
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In reply to: Sharma, or whomever, has IMPROVED the route, and is attempting to actually CLIMB IT! There is no way you can say that bolting a route is somehow bringing a route down whilst spewing the love of AIDING! AID is not CLIMBING! I don't AID because I choose to climb instead. I am absolutely astounded that somone can beleive that pounding pins rurps, nails, etc . . . into rock with a hammer on a regular basis is somehow less damaging than having fixed protection. I truely hope that I have been trolled and/or that you simply like to provoke argument and that you don't actually subscribe to the views you have been spewing. Hahahahaha! I believe you actually mean that, don't you! Oh man, I really shouldn't laugh - it's really quite sad, but I can't help it. Bwahahahahaha! G:lol:
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