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blankslate
Mar 11, 2006, 3:30 AM
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In reply to: Will this hex 'issue' continue to come up evner few months til the end of time? Rock Centrics, dyneema, 6-9, they do indeed pick up where nuts leave off, they are as good or better than a cam in many instances, and if you climb in rock with highly irregular cracks n horozontals, tricams and hexes are your friends, while your cams might as well be on the ground. I just would not go with small hexes, cause nuts and little tricams rule in those sizes, and I wish WC made one or two larger than the # 9.
i likes me rockcentrics 5-8. not going to contribute much to this debate except look at the weight of WC hexes in this size range vs. metolius or bd. you'll find that WC strung with dyneema is often 1/3 or even 1/2 the weight. WC rules!
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heximp
Mar 12, 2006, 6:34 PM
Post #77 of 100
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What? Relics??? Hexes are bomber... I trust a hex over a cam anyday...
"I use them for big wall. I guess some people think that is not hard enough to prove gear, but then again I don't see them up there either...
Plus, nothing prepares you for climbing then practicing with passive gear. If you learn passive first, then play with your cams... You might actually place your cams right.
Yes, I have a full rack of them... I think a good knowledge of passive gear is essential...
*I am a girl and I do agree... "I do like big tools..." I get happy when I here that "gong sound." ;)
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tradrenn
Mar 12, 2006, 11:33 PM
Post #78 of 100
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I love this thread !!!
HEXES 4EVER
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tradclmbr
Mar 12, 2006, 11:57 PM
Post #79 of 100
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The OP asked if its worth buying hexes (?). The answer is no, why 6 pages of drivel when the answer is so simple?
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heximp
Mar 13, 2006, 1:33 AM
Post #80 of 100
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It is because your egocentric self did not bother to read and see the pictures in this thread.
They clearly show and explain how hexes are great protection.
The fact is; passive gear is better then active protection. Passive gear has less factors that may fail.
Hexes are harder to place but they are bomber. (I never had one walk out.) I agree that cams are great too, especially where cracks don't taper but... They can’t replace hexes.
That is why both cams and hexes are valuable components on my rack... Leaving either set behind will compromise my safety.
(Also, I don't believe in short cuts because you always end up with inferior work. The use of cams because of their simplicity instead of hexes… That means you are not using the best protection. “I won't settle for that...”)
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heximp
Mar 15, 2006, 8:59 AM
Post #82 of 100
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You know Heiko... I think cams are perfect for your abilities. Since it is very easy to place hexes. just give them to me. I don't want you getting bored...
------------------
When a person speaks, they sometimes share more then what is intended...
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tradrenn
Mar 17, 2006, 1:51 AM
Post #84 of 100
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In reply to: The OP asked if its worth buying hexes (?). The answer is no, why 6 pages of drivel when the answer is so simple?
You are wrong. The end.
The correct answer is "yes" and lets make it 7 pages.
In reply to: In reply to: The use of cams because of their simplicity instead of hexes… That means you are not using the best protection. “I won't settle for that...”) Besides... what's simple about cams? They have many moving parts... springs, cables, triggers, whatnot. A hex is placed, tugged. Set. End of story.
Heiko...I do belive that you had misunderstood the message. ( some people just scueeze a cam and put it in the rock and think it is bomer, but if one should ask them about diff between overcam and undercam, they have no idea.)
In reply to: In reply to: You know Heiko... I think cams are perfect for your abilities. Since it is very easy to place hexes. just give them to me. I don't want you getting bored... Wha? :roll:
Wha? Why don't you go climb your local 5.9 that is consider the hardest for the grade and make sure you only use stoppers and Hexes.
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avalon420
Mar 21, 2006, 3:02 AM
Post #85 of 100
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In reply to: Magnus, Other reasons to own hexes: 1. Nothing else on your rack makes you sound like an honest-to-God Trad climber than the cowbell-like "bong!" sound of a hex 2. Best weapon for clubbing small rodents trying to get to yer lunch- well, them and prana beanie-wearing boulderers (just on principle). 3. Chicks dig big tools 4. Make great tire chocks at steeply sloped trailhead lots 5. [Other uses?-- climbers are an inventive group]
7. Large sizes and duct tape make a servicable cup.
8. And the small ones make a decent shot glass.
9.Pounding in that lost arrow i always keep handy.
10. Making pipes.
11. #11s can be burried in sand or snow as a (half arss) dead man for tents.
12. Musical instruments around the camp fire.
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avalon420
Mar 21, 2006, 3:11 AM
Post #86 of 100
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In reply to: The OP asked if its worth buying hexes (?). The answer is no, why 6 pages of drivel when the answer is so simple? |
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jimdavis
Mar 21, 2006, 7:37 AM
Post #87 of 100
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In reply to: Hexes are harder to place but they are bomber. (I never had one walk out.)
No, they won't walk out, but they might fall out.
There are plenty of placements where hex placements are sketchy, unless you extend the shit out of them.
I'd rather place a TriCam, atleast those things can bite in a little bit.
Hexes have their place, but I can't name 5 experienced climbers I know that still lead on hexes. They all use nuts, tricams, and cams (for the standard racks.)
Jim
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tomtom
Mar 22, 2006, 12:40 AM
Post #88 of 100
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I *heart* hexes.
Typically, I look for passive placements, and then resort to cams if I can't find one. But I only lead to 5.9.
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heximp
Mar 22, 2006, 3:11 PM
Post #89 of 100
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5.9 is good enough!
Lead on!
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ontherocks
Mar 22, 2006, 5:13 PM
Post #90 of 100
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Hexes are pretty useful if you climb in an area in which cracks are not completely parallel. Sometimes to place an hex can also save the cam of the same size for a future placement higher up. And it's also an inexpensive piece to leave behind if you need to retreat (t-storm?).
Still, since the cams have become so popular (and remember, some people makes loads of money selling them) many have eliminated the hexes from their rack, sometimes just to shave some pounds (that may be sensible), sometimes for other questionable reasons. Then if you are smart, don't care what other people think about the musical hexes, and climb in a place where rock has irregular features, you'll use hexes.
I personally use them on some metamorphic crumbly piles of choss I climb around here, but sometimes I leave them behind on some other areas, to reduce weight from my waist. My partner loves them anyway.
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leapinlizard
Mar 22, 2006, 6:29 PM
Post #91 of 100
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I personally own two full sets of slung hexes. I use sizes 9-11 quite a bit on some of the routes we have around here and I have a special rack of just 1-3 hexes and HB offsets that I take almost everywhere. While cams are great, there are certain places where cams are not trustworthy, yet hexes or nuts are bomber. For those that don't believe in hexes, that is fine, but when you come to the crux of a climb out here, and you can't manage to get your cam to stick, then you will know why the rest of us have invested the price of one of those cams in a set of hexes.
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rhythm164
Mar 28, 2006, 2:03 AM
Post #92 of 100
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I personally prefer tri-cams to hexes, sure they might take a little fiddling to get into a placement, but they go into anything, in fact I've placed the pink on every trad lead I've ever done. To me they're probably one of the most versitile components of my rack.
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sixleggedinsect
Mar 28, 2006, 8:31 PM
Post #93 of 100
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In reply to: I've placed the pink (tricam) on every trad lead I've ever done. .
your partners must hate you.. ;)
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sungam
Mar 28, 2006, 8:48 PM
Post #94 of 100
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Why, oh why, did i start this...
-Magnus
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jimfix
Mar 28, 2006, 8:49 PM
Post #95 of 100
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In reply to: 7. Large sizes and duct tape make a servicable cup. 8. And the small ones make a decent shot glass.
This isn't the first time I've seen this suggested, but had you considered the holes in the sides?
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rhythm164
Mar 29, 2006, 12:57 AM
Post #96 of 100
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i hear some bitching, but it makes them better people in the long run.
bwuh ha ha ha ha ha!!!!!!!!!
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mcgivney_nh
Jun 24, 2006, 12:59 PM
Post #97 of 100
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In reply to: In reply to: 7. Large sizes and duct tape make a serviceable cup. 8. And the small ones make a decent shot glass. This isn't the first time I've seen this suggested, but had you considered the holes in the sides?
First duct tape the bottom, then duct tape around the hex (covering the holes).
-Sean
I am a genius.
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eastvillage
Jun 24, 2006, 3:44 PM
Post #98 of 100
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For the cost of one BD Camelot, why noy buy some hexes and see for yourself if you like them?
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dirtineye
Jun 24, 2006, 4:11 PM
Post #99 of 100
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[quote="jimdavis"]In reply to: Hexes have their place, but I can't name 5 experienced climbers I know that still lead on hexes. They all use nuts, tricams, and cams (for the standard racks.) Jim
I know at least 5 who do.
Any experienced climber will use the right tool for the job.
I've placed a hex on a greater than 45 degree overhang, in a horzontal where a number 9 rockcentric was the absolute best thing to put there. Hexes are not hard to place at all, when the placement is right for a hex.
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climbxclimb
Jun 24, 2006, 4:18 PM
Post #100 of 100
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I bought my set of curved hexes when I already had a pretty full rack of cams tri-cams and stoppers.
The reason I bought them it was that I though it was good to know how to use them since they are a cheap substitute for cams, and they are more bomber than nuts.
I do not carry them with me very much when I rock climb, but I am sure I carry 2 or 3 mid size hexes when I do alpine climbing.
They are great as pro in icy cracks and if you need an emergency rappel anchor, you save a lot of money leaving behind the hexes instead of a cam.....
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