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bittersweet_climbing
Mar 6, 2004, 2:09 AM
Post #101 of 198
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I want to become a .12 climber. When I do, I will think about improving.
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fixedpin
Mar 6, 2004, 2:24 AM
Post #102 of 198
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In reply to: In reply to: It's a different route now. Whatever made it 10c ain't there anymore. uhhh, yeah. spoken like a tru sport weenie! bwahahahahah what made it 10c, and still makes it 10c, are basic crack skills and gear-protected on-sighting ability. you need to quit clipping bolts for awhile, and get out on the MANLY stones.
Sorry to burst your bubble, but you are just flat out wrong. The very large pancake flake that resided under the roof for many a year came off a couple years ago and the route is solid 11a now. And my crack climbing skills are more than just fine.
Check out your old Wolfe guide (photo of Matt Cox leading). See what his foot is on?; well you used to use your hand on it too. It ain't there no more. Done it before and after. Have you?
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organic
Mar 6, 2004, 2:29 AM
Post #103 of 198
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Registered: Jul 16, 2003
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In reply to: In reply to: In reply to: It's a different route now. Whatever made it 10c ain't there anymore. uhhh, yeah. spoken like a tru sport weenie! bwahahahahah what made it 10c, and still makes it 10c, are basic crack skills and gear-protected on-sighting ability. you need to quit clipping bolts for awhile, and get out on the MANLY stones. Sorry to burst your bubble, but you are just flat out wrong. The very large pancake flake that resided under the roof for many a year came off a couple years ago and the route is solid 11a now. And my crack climbing skills are more than just fine. Check out your old Wolfe guide (photo of Matt Cox leading). See what his foot is on?; well you used to use your hand on it too. It ain't there no more. Done it before and after. Have you?
uh oh he's calling you out fo' sho'!
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jt512
Mar 6, 2004, 2:42 AM
Post #104 of 198
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Registered: Apr 12, 2001
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In reply to: uh oh he's calling you out fo' sho'!
What can I say? He's BVB. I can't out-climb him. The best I can do is have Hillary make fun of his suspenders.
-Jay
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curt
Mar 6, 2004, 3:05 AM
Post #105 of 198
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Registered: Aug 27, 2002
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In reply to: In reply to: In reply to: It's a different route now. Whatever made it 10c ain't there anymore. uhhh, yeah. spoken like a tru sport weenie! bwahahahahah what made it 10c, and still makes it 10c, are basic crack skills and gear-protected on-sighting ability. you need to quit clipping bolts for awhile, and get out on the MANLY stones. Sorry to burst your bubble, but you are just flat out wrong. The very large pancake flake that resided under the roof for many a year came off a couple years ago and the route is solid 11a now. And my crack climbing skills are more than just fine. Check out your old Wolfe guide (photo of Matt Cox leading). See what his foot is on?; well you used to use your hand on it too. It ain't there no more. Done it before and after. Have you?
Hey jackass,
The difference between 5.10c and 5.11a crack climbing is probably not noticeable to Bob. He's put up 5.13 crack routes and he's also done most of the classic 5.12 crack climbs in Yosemite, done Astroman (an early ascent) etc. As bvb would say himself, were he here right now, STFU n00b.
And yes, I've led Grit Roof myself, tard.
Curt
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bvb
Mar 6, 2004, 3:19 AM
Post #106 of 198
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Registered: Mar 3, 2003
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In reply to: Sorry to burst your bubble, but you are just flat out wrong. The very large pancake flake that resided under the roof for many a year came off a couple years ago and the route is solid 11a now. And my crack climbing skills are more than just fine. Check out your old Wolfe guide (photo of Matt Cox leading). See what his foot is on?; well you used to use your hand on it too. It ain't there no more. Done it before and after. Have you?
getting called out? busting my bubble??? hey, my wife is the only one allowed that privledge bwahahaaa...nowthat is funny! i'm my own best audience...
anyhow, little homie, i've been hucking a lap on the grit roof anywhere between a couple of times a year to once every couple of years for...let's see...28 years. and i have a news flash for you: a hell of a lot more than the one flake you are referring to has been pulled off the route since the olden days.
still feels like standard-issue joshua tree 10c to me, bubs. sorry 'bout that. maybe you just need to sack up and get some skills.
or not.
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jt512
Mar 6, 2004, 3:19 AM
Post #107 of 198
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In reply to: To steal a phrase from Mad Dog, or SteelMonkey, I forget who... I climb as hard as anyone. I just do it on easier routes.
I think it was Geoff, unless he stole it, too.
-Jay
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b_fost
Mar 6, 2004, 3:22 AM
Post #108 of 198
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I climb for fun. The second it stops being fun will be the second that one of my friends gets a free rope.
I think I will have more fun as I challenge myself more and can climb a bigger variety of routes. Oh well...
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kalcario
Mar 6, 2004, 3:26 AM
Post #109 of 198
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Registered: Sep 25, 2002
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*Hey jackass,
The difference between 5.10c and 5.11a crack climbing is probably not noticeable to Bob. He's put up 5.13 crack routes... *
What is with you? Somebody tells you a hold broke off, offers photographic proof, and you call him a jackass? What's your deal?
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curt
Mar 6, 2004, 4:03 AM
Post #110 of 198
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In reply to: *Hey jackass, The difference between 5.10c and 5.11a crack climbing is probably not noticeable to Bob. He's put up 5.13 crack routes... * What is with you? Somebody tells you a hold broke off, offers photographic proof, and you call him a jackass? What's your deal?
What you quoted from me answers your own question. 10c vs. 11a, big deal. Did you get stood up again?
Curt
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bvb
Mar 6, 2004, 4:28 AM
Post #111 of 198
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Registered: Mar 3, 2003
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boys, boys, boys....let's settle down here. ol' fixedpin's probably been around awhile and paid some dues, if he's got one of the old wolfe/dominick guides.
i suppose he's entitled to his opinion of the grit roof's grade.
regardless of how horrifically misguided it is. heh. heh.
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kalcario
Mar 6, 2004, 4:50 AM
Post #112 of 198
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Registered: Sep 25, 2002
Posts: 1601
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*10c vs. 11a, big deal.*
Exactly-big deal. Attack the idea, not the person, and leave name calling out of it. Both you guys (curt and bob) are embarrassing yourselves here, people who are secure in their accomplishments don't act like this, you're giving 30 year vets a bad name...
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curt
Mar 6, 2004, 5:15 AM
Post #113 of 198
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In reply to: *10c vs. 11a, big deal.* Exactly-big deal. Attack the idea, not the person, and leave name calling out of it. Both you guys (curt and bob) are embarrassing yourselves here, people who are secure in their accomplishments don't act like this, you're giving 30 year vets a bad name...
Perhaps you didn't bother to read the thread I was responding to where the fukwit poster said "you are just flat out wrong" to bvb. He was in fact wrong--and therefore deserved all the crap he got from me. Fuh.
Curt
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kalcario
Mar 6, 2004, 5:22 AM
Post #114 of 198
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Registered: Sep 25, 2002
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*Sorry to burst your bubble, but you are just flat out wrong. The very large pancake flake that resided under the roof for many a year came off a couple years ago and the route is solid 11a now. And my crack climbing skills are more than just fine.*
What is he wrong about Curt? Are you telling me you know for a fact that that flake is still there?
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curt
Mar 6, 2004, 5:30 AM
Post #115 of 198
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In reply to: *Sorry to burst your bubble, but you are just flat out wrong. The very large pancake flake that resided under the roof for many a year came off a couple years ago and the route is solid 11a now. And my crack climbing skills are more than just fine.* What is he wrong about Curt? Are you telling me you know for a fact that that flake is still there?
Pay attention Joe. I'll go real slow, so even a sport climber can comprehend what I am saying. Yes, a flake came off--and there was photographic evidence of this. That didn't mean squat (5.10c vs. 5.11a) to anybody with sufficient crack climbing skills. Please expound on what part of this simple message you are failing to understand.
Curt
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kalcario
Mar 6, 2004, 5:37 AM
Post #116 of 198
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Registered: Sep 25, 2002
Posts: 1601
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*Pay attention Joe. I'll go real slow, so even a sport climber can comprehend what I am saying. Yes, a flake came off--and there was photographic evidence of this. That didn't mean squat (5.10c vs. 5.11a) to anybody with sufficient crack climbing skills. Please expound on what part of this simple message you are failing to understand. *
Sorry I still don't get it. Again...what was he wrong about? The grade?
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curt
Mar 6, 2004, 5:50 AM
Post #117 of 198
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Registered: Aug 27, 2002
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In reply to: *Pay attention Joe. I'll go real slow, so even a sport climber can comprehend what I am saying. Yes, a flake came off--and there was photographic evidence of this. That didn't mean squat (5.10c vs. 5.11a) to anybody with sufficient crack climbing skills. Please expound on what part of this simple message you are failing to understand. * Sorry I still don't get it. Again...what was he wrong about? The grade?
No, that a quite insignificant change in grade like that makes any difference what so ever.
Curt
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bvb
Mar 6, 2004, 6:57 AM
Post #118 of 198
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Registered: Mar 3, 2003
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In reply to: Attack the idea, not the person, and leave name calling out of it. Both you guys (curt and bob) are embarrassing yourselves here, people who are secure in their accomplishments don't act like this, you're giving 30 year vets a bad name...
lovely -- i offer an olive branch to fixedpin:
boys, boys, boys....let's settle down here. ol' fixedpin's probably been around awhile and paid some dues, if he's got one of the old wolfe/dominick guides.
i suppose he's entitled to his opinion of the grit roof's grade.
regardless of how horrifically misguided it is. heh. heh.[/i]
and joe comes back with the post, excerpted above.
curt, i think you are correct. joe is either having trouble following the conversation, or he's missing the point entirely. in either case, joe, you have become irrellevant to the conversation. and you are correct -- i am probaly the most insecure climber in the states. that's why i maintain such a high profile.
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bvb
Mar 6, 2004, 7:01 AM
Post #119 of 198
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In reply to: *Sorry to burst your bubble, but you are just flat out wrong. The very large pancake flake that resided under the roof for many a year came off a couple years ago and the route is solid 11a now. And my crack climbing skills are more than just fine.* What is he wrong about Curt? Are you telling me you know for a fact that that flake is still there?
troll. i think everyone is abundantly clear on the fact that the potato chip in question, along with a jillion other little chip and flakes, have dropped from the grit as it slowly evolved from the choss pile it was in 1973 to the polished marble it is today. but joe....just doesn't..seem...to..get it.....that we're on a utterly different topic.
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dirtineye
Mar 6, 2004, 1:08 PM
Post #120 of 198
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Registered: Mar 29, 2003
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Sounds like some people are climbing a crack without climbing the crack, if they were depending on flakes outside the crack to get up it. Those serious crack climbers are a wonder to behold. Crack climbing is so different from face climbing, you really can't compare the two at all. In a nutshell, in crack, you are holding on to nothing, even if it is very large. while in face, you are holding onto something, even if it is very small. We won't even go into high angle slab (still less than overhanging though) mantle and high step hahaha.
Rather than a question of grade, ( I do think there is a difference between 10c and 11a, they are supposed to be three grades apart, but then I can never tell a grade myself haha) this seems like a technique debate.
A crack master will cruise where a crack flailer (me most of the time) will falter purely on his technique. I'd guess that knowing and being able to execute the right technique in a given grade is worth at least three grades of apparent difficulty, and often much more. Sometimes the difference in having and not having the right technique is the difference in possible and impossible.
As fotr 30 year vets giving themselves a bad name, I'm sure thay are all broke up that you think so. I betcha the other Curt and this BVB are crying themselves to sleep over it. Try not insulting them in the first place and better yet meet em in person. Every thirty year semi famed or famed climber I have met in person has been more than nice to me. But I was nice to them too. See how that works?
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timstich
Mar 6, 2004, 1:31 PM
Post #121 of 198
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In reply to: In reply to: To steal a phrase from Mad Dog, or SteelMonkey, I forget who... I climb as hard as anyone. I just do it on easier routes. I think it was Geoff, unless he stole it, too. -Jay
Might have been. Speaking of, I was pretty disappointed when Geoff turned out not to be Burt Bronson. All he did was make the t-shirts. It was like finding out Santa Claus was some fatass's dad.
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timstich
Mar 6, 2004, 1:34 PM
Post #122 of 198
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In reply to: maybe you just need to sack up and get some skills.
Good one.
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fanederhand
Mar 8, 2004, 5:55 PM
Post #123 of 198
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Posts: 243
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In reply to: After reading mistymountainhop's post about the number of people that can climb 14's... it got me wondering in how many of you people here really care about climbing hard grades, do you just want to climb whatever or is pushing up your grades the most important? say whatever you can about this... give some reasons for your opinion... it will be interesting to see what people say.
Answer for Q1: Yes I care about climbing hard grades in several ways. One, I like to know if a route is above my ability before I tackle it especially if it is a multipitch route and the hardest one is in the middle. Two, as a sport it is a challange to progress into harder grades, and improve your skills. My vavorite type of climbing is Alpine Mountaineering so I use the skills I aquire TRAD rock climbing to better my mountaineering skills and tackle more difficult mountains to climb.
Answer to Q2 (is grade the most important) no it is not. The type of climb at a grade is a useful tool for my adventures in the moutains. I have no aspirations to be a 5.14 climber.
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andy_reagan
Mar 8, 2004, 7:34 PM
Post #124 of 198
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Registered: Jan 12, 2004
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the harder you climb the more you get laid.
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yanqui
Mar 8, 2004, 7:50 PM
Post #125 of 198
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Registered: Feb 24, 2004
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Being somewhat anal retentive, I used to be this stickler for getting the grade right. Is this climb REALLY a 5.10c? -- that sort of thing. But the more I think about it, the more ridiculous that seems. Can a human being actually distinguish, objectively, more than 25 levels of climbing difficulty? And all this big number talk, downgrading 14d's to 14c's, claims to doing 5.15c's, references to moderate-difficult 5.13+'s on granite and the like, seems to be more about hype and spray than about offering information to climbers so they can make choices about which of the gazillions of routes they should try with their finite time here on this earth. Besides, I have to say, I mostly boulder nowadays and this damn V-shit grading system has me way confused.
So I was thinking, at least for boulders, why not introduce something like the following system, loosely based on the old John Gill system. I call it: the Spray Block (SB) rating system. Like the old JG system there are only 3 grades, but unlike the Gill system, the SB system is at once personal and subjective, and therefore, to be used objectively, requires information about to whom (and possibly when) the grade applies. The system goes like this: an SB-1 is a boulder problem that you can do pretty easily: one that goes more or less smoothly. An SB-2 is a boulder you can do, but you have to struggle: it seems hard. And an SB-3 is one you try, but you can't do. An SB-3 drops to an SB-2 (or even an SB-1) when you send it. For more objective information, one can include a name along with the grade. For example, a Yanqui SB-3 might not be so hard for a reasonably good boulderer. Obviously, this type of information becomes more useful as you know more about to whom the grade applies. On the other hand, if someone tells me a route is a Sharma SB-3, I know with objective certainty that the route will kick my ass. The system even allows for direct objective competition between climbers: for example, to compare Joe Blow with Yanqui one could compare the number of Yanqui SB-3's in the set of Joe Blow SB-1's and SB-2's with the number of Joe Blow SB-3's in the set of Yanqui SB-1's and SB-2's. Or one could even devise other, more complex equations for competition among climbers. The winner gets a gold star. And the best thing is that the system completely destroys all this idiotic discussion about how hard a boulder problem is. Anyone who tries the problem immediately knows the correct grade.
So, whadaya think?
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