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raymondjeffrey
Nov 16, 2005, 12:51 AM
Post #126 of 140
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Registered: Mar 2, 2004
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If it is a sport climb and I know that it is kinda tough: I clip all of the draws to the rope while still on the ground and then clip the draws to one gear loop. Then I climb it and all I gotta do is unclip from my gear loop and go directly to the bolt. In other words, I don't have to hang the draw then pull rope to clip, I just take the draw that is at the front of the gear loop and clip the bolt. Saves time and energy for me. Yea, I know,: what if you gotta make a clip with the hand that is opposite of what side you have the draws? Simple, First I know how many bolts there are for the climb, and if I can't make all the clips with the same hand then this little trick is of no use; so I try to make sure that all the clips can be done with the same hand. A route that I do this with is called Cowboy; short pumpy 3 bolt thing that saps my energy.
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brutusofwyde
Nov 17, 2005, 3:19 AM
Post #127 of 140
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Registered: Nov 3, 2002
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That's why they were originally called "quickdraws."
And, if you know which hand is used for each clip, you can rack the draws, in order, on both sides of your harness such that the next draw to be used, each time, is "at hand."
Brutus
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p0stscript
Nov 17, 2005, 12:48 PM
Post #128 of 140
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Registered: Nov 9, 2005
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Give each piece of pro you put in a mark of ten, the higher the number the better the placement and your willingness to take a fall on it (so a peanut well placed would still have a low number). Anything with a low number means another needs putting in PDQ.
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erin
Nov 17, 2005, 1:40 PM
Post #129 of 140
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Registered: Jul 27, 2005
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In reply to: The best one I've heard lately involved carrying a 48" sling utilizing a biner clipped through the ends. That way, when you grab for a long sling - you can pull it off with out pulling over your head and without getting caught up in your other slings. Simply unhook the biner and pull - it comes right out.
My partner recently started doing it this way, and loves it.
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Rileymoto
Jan 7, 2010, 3:48 AM
Post #130 of 140
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Registered: May 14, 2009
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Whenever i am lowering with any type of belay device except a munter, I will clip a locking biner to my leg loop, clip the rope through that and break up because #1 It gives me much much much smoother lower #2 it allows me to mule hitch the line in case i drop somthing or my climber needs a rest and #3 it gives me much more friction so even if you were using a grigri loaded backwards it would give you enough friction to easily hold your climber!
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foreverabumbly
Jan 7, 2010, 6:48 AM
Post #131 of 140
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Registered: Oct 7, 2006
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you can still have epics on routes graded far underneath your ability.
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soNVclimbing
Jan 22, 2010, 4:25 PM
Post #132 of 140
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Registered: May 21, 2009
Posts: 40
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I tape an emergency blanket to the inside of my helmet.
Keep wires on keylocks
Always have daisy girthed to harness with locker on the end stuffed in my cargo pocket with the remaining slack of the daisy tucked under leg loop. This is my quick I need to clip trick and is always ready to go.
10" small hard wire folded inside of a small roll of flat duct tape. I use the wire to reach gear and thread rock eyes (ex: Nixon's tower, CTP sp?)
Wrap the long shoe laces around my mid foot for more support and it gets rid of those long laces when pulled tight.
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dolphja
Jan 22, 2010, 8:33 PM
Post #133 of 140
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Registered: May 18, 2001
Posts: 298
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i know it's been said earlier in the thread,... trad, nut/hex first, cam second. save your cams for those desperate placements.
Sport climbing: always handy to keep a lil adjustable wrench in your crag bag to tighten those loose bolts
tie a stopper knot at the end of the rope. takes 10 seconds & saves lives
attaching extra biner and tape to the chalk bag for those annoying flapper repairs when you're in the middle of a route. (my chalk bag is like a lil toolbox with a brush, tape, biner and HAND WARMERS in it for those winter season bouldering cessions)
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tradmatt
Mar 30, 2010, 3:13 PM
Post #134 of 140
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Registered: Mar 4, 2010
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Little things I've picked up are:
- Carrying three prussic loops because it's garunteed that one of my mates willl either forget or drop one.
- Carrying a skyhook for backing off routes and saving all my gear. Also as a last resort piece of protection.
- Guideplates are like the best thing ever. You can eat/snooze/add warm layers while belaying.
- Wild Country Superlight Rocks. 6 single wires that just awesome.
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scrapedape
Mar 30, 2010, 3:30 PM
Post #135 of 140
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Registered: Jun 24, 2004
Posts: 2392
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tradmatt wrote: Little things I've picked up are: - Carrying three prussic loops because it's garunteed that one of my mates willl either forget or drop one. - Carrying a skyhook for backing off routes and saving all my gear. Also as a last resort piece of protection. - Guideplates are like the best thing ever. You can eat/snooze/add warm layers while belaying. - Wild Country Superlight Rocks. 6 single wires that just awesome.
Does your skyhook look like this?
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grahamh
Apr 16, 2010, 6:00 PM
Post #136 of 140
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Registered: Apr 10, 2010
Posts: 30
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BRING A LIGHTER! it will make the unplanned sleep-over atop elcap a lot more pleasent - sorry ranger Rick.
Girth-hitch 2 nuts together for extended reach in placing one if necesary.
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sherpa79
Apr 18, 2010, 2:11 PM
Post #137 of 140
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Registered: Dec 15, 2004
Posts: 108
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Carry a tampon in your tiny first aid kit. In addition to its intended purpose it serves double duty as a great blood stopper for those potential injuries where just tape won't cut it. Sliced my hand falling down a scree slope imbedded with sharp chert. Worked like a charm. Also great for nosebleeds.
For belays at the top out that are a ways back, just clip the lead line into a biner on the shelf of the anchor. Put your prussik and locker onto the belay side of your anchor biner. Clip the prussik biner to your belay loop. You are now belaying yourself. Install your munter or guide plate on the anchor point and walk back towards the lip tending the prussik. You can dial the tension on your "leash" much more finely than with a clove hitch where you pretty much have to guess where you want to be. I like it a little bit better than connecting loops with a locker as I've seen other people do, but that is also a useful thing to know.
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Guran
Apr 19, 2010, 2:00 PM
Post #138 of 140
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Registered: Sep 18, 2008
Posts: 220
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sherpa79 wrote: For belays at the top out that are a ways back, just clip the lead line into a biner on the shelf of the anchor. Put your prussik and locker onto the belay side of your anchor biner. Clip the prussik biner to your belay loop. You are now belaying yourself. Install your munter or guide plate on the anchor point and walk back towards the lip tending the prussik. You can dial the tension on your "leash" much more finely than with a clove hitch where you pretty much have to guess where you want to be. I like it a little bit better than connecting loops with a locker as I've seen other people do, but that is also a useful thing to know.
However, I can offer an improvement on your techique: Instead of simply running the rope through the power point biner, do a munter on it.
You'll have the same flexibility, but the load on your prusik will be a lot less.
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sherpa79
Apr 20, 2010, 9:03 PM
Post #139 of 140
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Registered: Dec 15, 2004
Posts: 108
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Guran wrote: Yup, that's a good trick, though I usually simply redirect the rope through the power point and clove it to a biner on my belay loop. However, I can offer an improvement on your techique: Instead of simply running the rope through the power point biner, do a munter on it. You'll have the same flexibility, but the load on your prusik will be a lot less.
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Guran
Apr 21, 2010, 8:26 AM
Post #140 of 140
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Registered: Sep 18, 2008
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sherpa79 wrote: But you're right, with the munter the load on the prussik is less, but I've never found loading the prussik to be a problem. I'm trying to imagine under what circumstances where one would be better than the other, but think they all probably perform about the same. Unless you are belaying directly off your harness. Then I think it's best to have a clove or a knot back to your belay loop.
If I'm bringing up a second and the anchor is far from where I want to be, it's redirect plus clove. I can tie a clove so much quicker than a good prussik and it's easy enough to adjust. To each his own of course.
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