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fixedpin
Mar 12, 2004, 10:49 PM
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In reply to: [ Well, "Fiona," Curt'll be at Intersection Rock tomorrow morning at 9:00 am. I'm just posting this so you can avoid the embarrassment of meeting him and learning what a complete ass you have been making of yourself in this thread. -Jay
Highly unlikely. The only ones making fools of themselves are the two gentlemen in question. They presuppose that anyone that questions them must be an inexperienced n00b. Now it seems you have joined their ranks. Much better climbers (myself included) than these self appointed Internet know it alls don't feel it necessary to preen their egos in such an self-conscious manner.
But as BVB readily admits, this is only the Internet, so I don't take your misinformed and impotent retort seriously.
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bvb
Mar 13, 2004, 12:16 AM
Post #152 of 198
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**Only a knave would say that there is no difference between 10c and 11a**
sorry fixedpin, but i don't know you so i can't attack you personally. i save that stuff for my really good friends.
but, i will reiterate for the record: i often do 10c's that feel like 5.11c to me, and vice versa. ergo, i often can't tell the difference between 5.10 and 5.11, especially when it's the kind of climbing i'm really good at -- or really bad at.
a couple recent examples:
cali knight at woodson. after doing it so many times, i can tell if it's 5.10 or 5.11. it just feels easy.
http://www.0friction.com/...riction_pic_4120.jpg
or this: fat crack splitter roof here in flag. could be 5.11 plus, could be 13 minus. i've always been shite with grades -- to me it just feels pretty damn hard.
http://www.0friction.com/...riction_pic_3426.jpg
and to tell you the god's honest truth about grit roof? i've done it so many times now it feels like 5.9. that's not to say it is 5.9....but shir happens when you've got stuff wired.
but hey...that's just me: the chest-thumping, trolling, loser, half-wit, testosterone abusing, has-been never-was pot-bellied embarassment to the climbing community. uhhh.....which "climbing community" was that...? there are dozens, you know.
anyway...thanks for giving me an excuse to post more pics of myself. my self-esteem was getting a little low. i feel like a better person now.
http://www.davidhayes.co.uk/jpg2/apes03.jpg
btw...if you're trolling for a personal attack, just give the word and i'll be happy to make something up.
we aim to please.
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calamity_chk
Mar 13, 2004, 12:37 AM
Post #153 of 198
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In reply to: In reply to: Go ahead--out yourself!!! Curt My name is Michael Reardon, and yes, once I touched another man's privates. Well, "touched" doesn't quite count because it was wrapped in a rubber, which means technically I'm not gay, or so my scientology guru told me, although, it was actually his private parts. Whew, thank god I got that off my chest.
bvb's photos inspired me to comment. *gasp*
another piece of food for thought on grades is crack size vs hand size. a handcrack for me is a.75 camalot - which means that comfy handcracks for me are usually in the 11s because they're rattely fingers or some such for 'normal' people. 10s, however, generally involve weird stacking bs that i'm not masochistic enough to try (yet). (grades based on IC)
another example, i could probably fit at least my shoulder, if not part of my body into the crack shown in the second photo that bob posted.
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bvb
Mar 13, 2004, 12:38 AM
Post #154 of 198
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In reply to: Much better climbers (myself included) than these self appointed Internet know it alls don't feel it necessary to preen their egos in such an self-conscious manner.
i would like to note note for the record that fixedpin actually goes through the trouble of recording his ascents in the rc.com database, including a claimed no-falls onsight of astroboy, not to mention an ascent of sea of dreams. and you've got the gall to accuse me of ego preening????
so fixedpin, how'd ya like the hook or book pitch? heh. heh. heh.
pics, please.
and you should edit your "entry" to fill in the "witnessses" data field.
oh gosh, there i go with that personal "attack" you referred to. golly, i hate being so predictable.....
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dirtineye
Mar 13, 2004, 12:46 AM
Post #155 of 198
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In reply to: but, i will reiterate for the record: i often do 10c's that feel like 5.11c to me, and vice versa. ergo, i often can't tell the difference between 5.10 and 5.11, especially when it's the kind of climbing i'm really good at -- or really bad at. a couple recent examples: cali knight at woodson. after doing it so many times, i can tell if it's 5.10 or 5.11. it just feels easy. and to tell you the god's honest truth about grit roof? i've done it so many times now it feels like 5.9. that's not to say it is 5.9....but shir happens when you've got stuff wired.
I feel this way too. the tehcnique called for, combined with doing something over adn over, along with what amberchick sais about a crack fitting you or not makes more difference than grade.
Hey Curt, is htis BVB guy a fun guy? he sounds like one!
Down with the spray police!!!!!!
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fixedpin
Mar 13, 2004, 10:25 PM
Post #156 of 198
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In reply to: In reply to: Much better climbers (myself included) than these self appointed Internet know it alls don't feel it necessary to preen their egos in such an self-conscious manner. i would like to note note for the record that fixedpin actually goes through the trouble of recording his ascents in the rc.com database, including a claimed no-falls onsight of astroboy,.... and you've got the gall to accuse me of ego preening????
People fall on that route?
In reply to: so fixedpin,.....pics, please. and you should edit your "entry" to fill in the "witnessses" data field.
Now that would be telling wouldn't it!
In reply to: oh gosh, there i go with that personal "attack" you referred to.
That was it?
In reply to: and to tell you the god's honest truth about grit roof? i've done it so many times now it feels like 5.9. that's not to say it is 5.9....but shir happens when you've got stuff wired. i can tell if it's 5.10 or 5.11. it just feels easy.
No doubt this is true, we all have routes we have ruthlessly wired and the rating is irrelevant and impossible to ascribe. After all, rating a route is a matter of how hard it feels and when you wire a route, it doesn't feel hard anymore. Yet, for people who are doing a route (in the 10c to 11a range) for the 1st or 2nd time, this is rarely the case.
Have to run, my nurse is coming....
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bvb
Mar 14, 2004, 1:57 AM
Post #157 of 198
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i know, i know, pretty weak compared to the bile i can usually produce, spewn up and out at innocent civilians from the bowels of my loathing and self-hatred.
i'll try to come up with something a little more scathing, vile, unkind, and worthy of a warning from a mod in the future. :wink:
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fixedpin
Mar 14, 2004, 2:16 AM
Post #158 of 198
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In reply to: i'll try to come up with something a little more scathing, vile, unkind, and worthy of a warning from a mod in the future. :wink:
Now that's more like it.
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bouldering-bumm
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Mar 14, 2004, 3:28 AM
Post #159 of 198
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I do like the grades, though they can be contraversial, they serve a huge purpose.
I know that most of you SAY you don't care about grades, but when you go to sleep at noght, you wish you could send 14s.
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curt
Mar 14, 2004, 11:09 PM
Post #160 of 198
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In reply to: Highly unlikely. The only ones making fools of themselves are the two gentlemen in question. They presuppose that anyone that questions them must be an inexperienced n00b. Now it seems you have joined their ranks. Much better climbers (myself included) than these self appointed Internet know it alls don't feel it necessary to preen their egos in such an self-conscious manner.
Curt
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badass
Mar 15, 2004, 12:05 AM
Post #161 of 198
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Man you have asked a question and I think if you read most of your replies you'll find the answer. it is rare to find hard climbers on the Computer. I just got this computer last christmas and already I spend as little time as possible on it. That said I think the southeast generally tries to embody the fun or spiritual aspect of climbing rather than focusing on Grades. Southern climbers general idea of hard usually means scary not difficult. I am the opposite however. I like to push climbing to physical limits which means high end sport climbing or bouldering. After a couple of years of climbing I have sent two 5.13a's and got the second ascent of Doug Reeds Black Flag Direct 5.13b which is pretty good considering the height dependent crux and the fact that Doug is about 6'5 and I am 5'7. I also can do any 12 you can throw at me. I believe in trying to push yourself at anything you do but climbing is an amazing life style and I want to take it all the way. I won't stop till I am 5.15. If any of you are offended by any of my statements just know I am from the South born and raised 8)
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yanqui
Mar 15, 2004, 7:35 PM
Post #162 of 198
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Here's a true story that certainly relates. I call it: The Yanqui's Cup Challenge.
Over the past eight years, I've gradually developed some of the climbing potential on a small sierra behind my house. Although I've introduced something like 25 to 30 visiting climbers to the routes, there's really only been 3 visitors with the ability to try and onsight some of the harder routes. The cup challenge consists of these three guys trying to onsight 4 routes (and was made up after the fact, for rhetorical purposes). What's interesting (and relevant) is to see how these guys did with respect to the grade. Which routes were hard? Who was the hard climber? Although the grades may be a bit stout, I believe them to be correct. I certainly don't feel they're sandbags.
So let's see who the challengers are and how they did.
The Challengers: Charly, La Morsa and Sebastian. Charly and La Morsa are pretty strong climbers: both have redpointed some 5.13, both have climbed a bit around the world (for example: The Shield, Salathe and the Nose on El Cap, as well as sport climbing in the US and Spain) and both train regularly in their small home gym. Even though Sebastian is a much less experienced climber, he has climbed for about 8 years and he trains regularly in a small gym.
The Mood: Charly and La Morsa took on the Yanqui Cup Challenge over a single day (trying some other routes as well). They both complained of being tired from climbing hard the previous day (it's always important to have an excuse). Sebastian took on the challenge over a two day period (also climbing other routes). On the first day Sebastian struggled, but on the second day he was definitely in the zone, climbing way out of his normal ability.
Yanqui's Cup Challenge: with routes going from easier to harder.
(1) First opponent: The Ready Face (5.11a) 4 bolts. The crux consists of devious moves on a slightly overhanging face for the first two bolts. The top bolts go at around 5.9.
The outcome: Charly: onsights, but struggles. Felt the climb could be harder. La Morsa: easy flash after watching Charly struggle. Sebastian: falls on his first attempt and then redpoints.
(2) Second opponent: Expletive Deleted (5.11c) 2 bolts. Continuously difficult climbing on a slightly overhanging face with a powerful crux after the second bolt.
The outcome: Charly: gets spanked, and doesn't redpoint. La Morsa: doesn't even give it a go. Sebastian: onsights the route (he was in the zone).
(3) Third opponent: North American Invasion (5.11d) 3 bolts. Powerful moves on a steep boulder with a devious crux after the third bolt. Overhangs about 10 feet.
The outcome: Charly: onsights, but scurries right to an arete, bypassing the crux. La Morsa: falls his first go and redpoints his second attempt. Sebastian: gets spanked. After several attempts, he's left without the strength to untie the rope (don't you hate when that happens?).
(4) Fourth and final opponent: La Morsa's Big Swing (5.12a) 3 bolts. A bouldery roof problem. After a 10d initial move, easy moves lead to the business on a 6 foot roof. A good hold near the lip is followed by a long reach to a crimper and then two powerful deadpoints to reach finishing jugs. The big swing comes at the first deadpoint when your feet tend to cut out from under the roof.
The outcome: Everyone onsights this one. Go figure.
So which climbs are the hard ones and who was the good climber? To me the moral is clear: the grades are a fictitious guide, at best.
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yanqui
Mar 15, 2004, 7:36 PM
Post #163 of 198
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Oh yeah: and just because you redpoint a couple of low-level 5.13s doesn't mean you're a badass.
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okinawatricam
Mar 15, 2004, 11:38 PM
Post #164 of 198
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In reply to: Well, there certainly are people here who both climb and boulder harder than I do, and I have never claimed otherwise. However, most of them either post with their real names or have their names appear on their user pages. I will continue to regard anything posted on the internet anonymously to be largely empty BS. Curt
I could not agree with you more.
In reply to: Man you have asked a question and I think if you read most of your replies you'll find the answer. it is rare to find hard climbers on the Computer. I just got this computer last christmas and already I spend as little time as possible on it. That said I think the southeast generally tries to embody the fun or spiritual aspect of climbing rather than focusing on Grades. Southern climbers general idea of hard usually means scary not difficult. I am the opposite however. I like to push climbing to physical limits which means high end sport climbing or bouldering. After a couple of years of climbing I have sent two 5.13a's and got the second ascent of Doug Reeds Black Flag Direct 5.13b which is pretty good considering the height dependent crux and the fact that Doug is about 6'5 and I am 5'7. I also can do any 12 you can throw at me. I believe in trying to push yourself at anything you do but climbing is an amazing life style and I want to take it all the way. I won't stop till I am 5.15. If any of you are offended by any of my statements just know I am from the South born and raised
Some "hard Climbers" have jobs, and are not afraid of computers. It is possible to climb hard and not spend every free minute at the crag.
There’s nothing wrong with wanting to climb hard. Actually, I think we all want to climb harder, if not we wouldn’t get on routes near or at our limit when we go.
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fixedpin
Mar 15, 2004, 11:57 PM
Post #165 of 198
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In reply to: I will continue to regard anything posted on the internet anonymously to be largely empty BS.
I consider BS to be BS, and sound ideas transcend BS every time.
But, to each their own.
And apparently, even the sycophants are entitled to a "opinion" (or is that a contradiction okinametoo?)
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mreardon
Mar 16, 2004, 12:00 AM
Post #166 of 198
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In reply to: There’s nothing wrong with wanting to climb hard. Actually, I think we all want to climb harder, if not we wouldn’t get on routes near or at our limit when we go.
Finally the truth. Yes everyone cares, it's just defining what qualifies as a hard grade.
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curt
Mar 16, 2004, 12:05 AM
Post #167 of 198
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In reply to: In reply to: I will continue to regard anything posted on the internet anonymously to be largely empty BS. I consider BS to be BS, and sound ideas transcend BS every time. But, to each their own. And apparently, even the sycophants are entitled to a "opinion" (or is that a contradiction okinametoo?)
Old sage,
it is:
1) "to each his own."
and
2) "an opinion"
just FYI.
Curt
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kalcario
Mar 16, 2004, 12:24 AM
Post #168 of 198
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Minor epiphany that just came to me:
"Yanqui" is Dick Cilley?
Oh...just looked at his profile...never mind
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fixedpin
Mar 16, 2004, 12:47 AM
Post #169 of 198
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In reply to: it is: 1) "to each his own."
That's a bit misogynistic isn't it?
In reply to: 2) "an opinion"
Gosh, you're right (about that at least).
Rates an "E" for effort.
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ctclimbz
Mar 16, 2004, 12:57 AM
Post #170 of 198
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In reply to: In reply to: it is: 1) "to each his own." That's a bit misogynistic isn't it?
Actually, its not. 'Their' is plural and refers to multiple persons. You would have to say his or her own, if you choose not to use his as the general referent.
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badass
Mar 16, 2004, 2:09 AM
Post #171 of 198
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It is not ego that drives us to climb hard. It is willpower. :shock:
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bvb
Mar 16, 2004, 3:30 AM
Post #172 of 198
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not even close, kal. i'll give you a hint: dick posts under a five letter nom de plume that, were it singular instead of plural, would reflect what satisfied ladies have said about him coast-to-coast.
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survivalexpert
Mar 16, 2004, 4:20 AM
Post #173 of 198
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My goal is to improve my skills and technique so that I can climb harder grades in order to climb more routes. By being able to climb harder routes it will open up new horizons for spectacular outdoor climbs that few people ever get to experience. I could care less about competing in a gym with grades. Its all about being outside.
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xscimmiax
Mar 16, 2004, 6:27 AM
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I get a certain sense of accomplishment when I climb something harder than I have before.
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okinawatricam
Mar 16, 2004, 6:56 AM
Post #175 of 198
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"I don't want to climb harder" is just an excuse. People who aren't trying to climb harder are just lacking motivation.
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