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orangekyak
Jun 27, 2007, 1:13 AM
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Iverson wrote: Anchor bolts! We're talking about Anchor bolts? Not a lead, not a lead. Anchor bolts!
Fuggedaboudit.
(This post was edited by orangekyak on Jun 27, 2007, 1:14 AM)
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notch
Jun 27, 2007, 10:51 AM
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orangekyak wrote: Iverson wrote: Anchor bolts! We're talking about Anchor bolts? Not a lead, not a lead. Anchor bolts! Fuggedaboudit.
Matt
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robbovius
Jun 27, 2007, 11:57 AM
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Excellent times at the Rock Collegium last evening with Shane, coworker Jeff, his roomies, Dan (CR regular) and a couple of guys I've met at CR before.
much lappage on faves. I worked the moves on " A Mind is a Terrible thing to Waste" several times, only getting spit off twice this time. cruised "Exercize..." like always.
the fricken sidepull variant of Send Money always gives me grief these days, and I dunno why. the 2 crimp methods are cake.
wotevuh. coworker jeff and I are talking about a gunks trip the third week in july about. the plan is to leave wed 18th after work, and climb thursday friday adn saturday day, leaving somtime saturday afternoon.
also talking with CR regular Dan about heading out to crawford notch in august for some stuff that sounds fun.. he mentioned a 6 pitch .7...
At 4 pm today, I'm headin out to erving MA, camping at the Erving state forest, and exploring/climbing farley ledge tonight, hopefully tomorrow (in between thunderstorms), and friday, coming home friday late afternoon. adventure, rope-solo, fright, are all part of the plan. pics at 11.
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jakedatc
Jun 27, 2007, 1:30 PM
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Rob.. bring a crashpad.. there is some excellent bouldering at Farley and maybe mormon also
btw see the TR forum for rumney gathering stories
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grantjk
Jun 27, 2007, 4:15 PM
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Hey Amanda--I applaud your efforts to establish a Western Mass presence in this Boston-dominated MCT--it's nice to see some crags I'm familiar with finally get mentioned.
Anyway, I'm down the road from you in Northampton, and climb pretty frequently at all the local areas. I have most Mondays free, including this one coming up, so if you'd like to get together and climb, send me a PM and we can make a plan.
Oh, and I have yet to murder anyone I've met online or otherwise, so it's a good bet you'll survive!
Grant
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robbovius
Jun 27, 2007, 5:12 PM
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Jake, too late for the crashpad. the car is packed and out in the wrok P-lot, from which I'm hitting the road at 4. I figure I can be at the campsite by 5:30, and maybe farley by 6:30.
what I really want to find is some trad stuff 5.4 -5.6 for rope-solo fun. looking at the minimal online info, rose ledge might be the best. mormon might have something in that range too. i get the feeling that farly is kinda like College, in that there isn't a whole lot of easy or moderate stuff.
we'll see though. it'll be an adventure for sure.
Oh BTW, Amanda, Grant and other western massers, it's good to have that presence here, been metro/metrowest centric here for far too long.
(This post was edited by robbovius on Jun 27, 2007, 5:13 PM)
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jakedatc
Jun 27, 2007, 5:22 PM
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ahh.. oh well. Yea.. farley is generally hard shit.. especially the bolted and mixed stuff. I didn't do any trad while i was there but the cliffs are not very straight forward and established trails seems to only get to a few places. so you'll probably have to do a bit of adventuring without a local.
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grantjk
Jun 27, 2007, 6:12 PM
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Hey Rob--I don't know if you'll see this prior to leaving, but Farley has a handful of moderate routes--5.5--5.8--mostly trad or mixed. A big part of the cliff is currently closed for peregrines--it's pretty well marked, so you'll know where to go. If you go this evening, there is likely to be a bunch of folks at the dawn wall/amphitheatre area--it's the 4th rock cairn, first after the closed area--you'll have no troulbe getting a belay, unless people are scared off by the heat/T-Storm potential. Also, I'm planning to be there Friday around 11:30; you can send me a PM--if you want to try to meet, and I'll be happy to show you around.
Have fun, Grant
(This post was edited by grantjk on Jun 27, 2007, 7:44 PM)
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robbovius
Jun 27, 2007, 6:34 PM
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Grant thanks for the beta! I read abotu teh peregrine closure on the WMCC site.
lets' try to hook up friday. according to the weather sites friday shoudl be the best day anyway.
I'm good up to .9 top rope, and pushing for .10s. .6 is about my current trad comfort level
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grantjk
Jun 27, 2007, 7:08 PM
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Hey Rob--That would be great--you can call if you have a phone on Thursday to confirm, or meet us in the lot around 11:30. If you miss me there, I'll probably start at the Bat Cave area and move to the Dawn Wall in the afternoon--they're right next to each other, conected by a big fissure in the rock. There's a bunch of climbs in your range, so you'll have no trouble keeping busy.
See you, Grant
(This post was edited by grantjk on Jun 27, 2007, 7:46 PM)
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robbovius
Jun 27, 2007, 7:28 PM
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Grant, got your number, you can edit it from the post if you like. I'll have my cel with me. hopefully reception out that way will be okay.
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wolfram
Jun 27, 2007, 7:36 PM
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Hello all -- I'm looking to do some top roping at quincy quarries this saturday -- 6/30. I'm experienced, safe, reliable, out of shape, but willing to top rope anything, and currently partnerless for this weekend.
I'm looking to partner up, or that a group wouldnt mind me joining. You can email me at simplediffusion@yahoo.com
thanks! Brian
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bboysmeth
Jun 28, 2007, 11:18 PM
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There are a few of us going up tomorrow with a range of climbing abilitys from 9's to 12's. Anyone feel like meeting up? Leaving boston at 7am.
seth
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notch
Jun 29, 2007, 10:42 AM
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wolfram wrote: Hello all -- I'm looking to do some top roping at quincy quarries this saturday -- 6/30. I'm experienced, safe, reliable, out of shape, but willing to top rope anything, and currently partnerless for this weekend. I'm looking to partner up, or that a group wouldnt mind me joining. You can email me at simplediffusion@yahoo.com thanks! Brian
Looks like everyone's hitting the road this weekend, so you might be out of luck. Keep checking back in frequently and I suspect that you'll get linked up sooner or later. Welcome to the MCT.
Matt
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creekyphil
Jun 29, 2007, 11:30 PM
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Gabe and Jake, thanks for the info on Finger Flux, I'm going to give it a run on lead sometime soon.
On another note,I'm game for some early morning pre-heat TRing at the quarries tomorrow. I've got to work at 11:30(damn EMS), but if anybdy can be collapsed and out of there by 11 I'm game.
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orangekyak
Jun 30, 2007, 5:59 PM
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Hey troops, I have some stuff to get rid of.
I have a Kelty solo tent to sell. Lightly used, maybe 10 nights. All poles and fabric in perfect condition. I'll part with it for $20. If you need a solo tent, this is a steal.
Also, I have a couple of sleeping bags that have logged a bit of use. One summer bag, one 3-season. I'll give these to anyone who would want to have them.
I also have a well-used full-length ridgerest.
BTW, I have a couple windsurfing sails and booms to part with, if anyone has an interest.
Contact me soon. Next stop is craigslist, if nobody here wants this stuff.
(This post was edited by orangekyak on Jun 30, 2007, 6:01 PM)
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robbovius
Jun 30, 2007, 6:47 PM
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I would like to thank Grant, Ed (friday), Pete, & Leah (thrusday) (and, nice to meet you katie) for making my Farley experience as good as it possibly could be, given that, as Pete recommended I mention, Farley Sucks, and the rest of the eastern massholes shouldn't ever go there, not ever. IN fact, no one should go there. I mean there's only parking for 8 cars, and you can't possibly get on more than .5% of the wall during any one session, and the hike in is long and strenuous, and the climbs are mostly all dirty and even though I got all excited onsight rope-soloing that .6+ overhung fissure (repeated with a belayer on friday), liked the air on that newly-put-up .5 so much I had to repeat that, had a blast on Air Blast .8+ (pete you were right, classic, totally), I only got to the 3rd bolt on that 10b, and fell off each of 3 tries at the crux. Also, compounding my sorrow was that I had to leave.
AND, I scraped my knuckle on the edge of the Bat Cave Roof, so like, Farley Sucks. Don't go there. Leave it to the western mass climbers, it's what they deserve.
Grant, that do? I'm not ever coming back in july and august, I'll let you know when I'm won't be showing up.
(This post was edited by robbovius on Jun 30, 2007, 6:49 PM)
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orangekyak
Jun 30, 2007, 9:10 PM
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hehe that's funny. I like funny.
_______
Back on the consignment note, I have some indoor wall panels (3/4 inch CDX) to give away to the person who comes to get them (and, perhaps, help me take them down).
I have the following sections, framed with 2x4s. T-nutted randomly.
1' by 4'
1' by 4'
4' by 8'
4' by 4'
4' by 4'
And one 4' by 6' unframed (it's the roof section right now), t-nutted.
I will also give you some 2x6 boards that you can use for additional framing.
I'm not getting rid of my holds at this point, but if you are looking to start a wall, this would be plenty to get you going. It's a good deal on good wood. Free, for the taking.
Jake has first rights of refusal for helping build, but should he refuse or not respond, it's first come first served.
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jakedatc
Jun 30, 2007, 11:20 PM
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that's tempting jer.. i will probably take you up on it. at least one of the "walls" it was fun building tho eh? nothing like getting a flash pump trying to screw a roof to the ceiling :)
whats your schedule like this summer.. maybe get up and do some climbing together somewhere?
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orangekyak
Jun 30, 2007, 11:31 PM
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Schedule: Teach summer school and sell half-duplex in Worcester. Move to PA. Start teaching in PA.
Jake, deliberate quickly on whether or not you want those wall panels. If you don't claim it, I must find them another home. I will not move plywood and 2x4s. We'll probably be renting for a year, maybe two, when we get down there. I don't want a climbing wall sitting around in storage.
Keep in mind that I'm not ready to part with the holds.
As far as climbing goes, I have a lot of afternoons for Crow Hill. Anyone who wants to do a few hours on weekday afternoons from the 5th through July, let me know.
Weekends will be spent moving, gunking, and northconwaying.
(This post was edited by orangekyak on Jun 30, 2007, 11:34 PM)
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orangekyak
Jul 2, 2007, 12:26 AM
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The tent has been claimed. The wall panels have changed possession and crossed state lines.
I still have two sleeping bags, used and free. I'd like to pass on a ridge rest pad, too. Free.
Lemme know.
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jakedatc
Jul 2, 2007, 12:52 AM
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Jer thanks for the wall pieces.. hopefully i'll have some of it set up soon and put to good use. Just have to find some holds i like and get cranking. Was fun spending the afternoon with you and amanda as always.
someone with space should claim "the red chair" it is quite comfy :)
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jakedatc
Jul 2, 2007, 4:47 AM
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Oh... i am thinking of stopping by College Rock on my way home from my FSC interview tomorrow.. anyone want to join me? I'd probably get there by 3-4? depending how long the interview is? weather looks nice
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robbovius
Jul 2, 2007, 12:41 PM
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Jake, too bad, Shane nad I are planning on heading to CR but not until 5:30 about.
BTW here's a pic from my farley trip...this is quite possibly the kewlest self-portrait I've ever taken. my friday trad repeat of the line I rope-soloed on thursday, Ed belaying.
this is the line, from below, after I'd rapped off from the rope-solo.
cracky, stemmy, back-stepping, fist-jammy goodness
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jakedatc
Jul 2, 2007, 2:32 PM
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Rob maybe i'll still be there.. i'll see how things go.
Me on Sky Pilot 11b.. photos by Ed
(This post was edited by jakedatc on Jul 5, 2007, 3:18 AM)
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