|
notch
Jul 5, 2007, 7:29 PM
Post #19351 of 22774
(7473 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jul 13, 2005
Posts: 599
|
I'm not sure Lost Ledges qualifies as yuppie land. I think it's more, "Where the frick is this crag" land. Regardless, my partner fell through and now I'm all dressed up with no where to go. I do need to be down in the Boston area Friday night and through the weekend though, so I can't have too much fun.
Feeling sick tomorrow?
|
|
|
|
|
treddy
Jul 5, 2007, 8:21 PM
Post #19352 of 22774
(7467 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 10, 2004
Posts: 47
|
Yup..called REI in Boston today...no dice; looks like they are done carrying CCH. It's ok, though -- after rereading the thread about the recent alien failures, I think I'm going to put my money into other gear that doesn't require testing before usie.
Anybody out there recommend any other small cams?
Tim
|
|
|
|
|
texeverlasting
Jul 5, 2007, 8:37 PM
Post #19353 of 22774
(7464 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jul 4, 2007
Posts: 7
|
<~~ Has car, is looking for climbing buddies, AND was hoping for a maiden voyage at Rumney this weekend! PM me if you're still looking for someone...
|
|
|
|
|
losbill
Jul 5, 2007, 9:23 PM
Post #19354 of 22774
(7453 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 14, 2004
Posts: 416
|
Matt I thought you were only looking to hook up tomorrow. I can come out and play at Crow Hill on Sunday if you are going to be around. I have a wedding to go to on Saturday.
Also 5.9 at Rumney is your warm-up if I remember correctly you sandbagger!
|
|
|
|
|
jakedatc
Jul 5, 2007, 9:46 PM
Post #19355 of 22774
(7444 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 12, 2003
Posts: 11054
|
matt warms up at his limit.. and just stays there ;) "steady as she goes"
oh and i found this picture for him... :hides:
|
|
|
|
|
notch
Jul 5, 2007, 10:19 PM
Post #19356 of 22774
(7440 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jul 13, 2005
Posts: 599
|
Bill,
You were correct, I'm only available Friday. Jake...well, I have no reply to that photo, other than taking your shoes off doesn't make that route suck any less!
Looks like I've found a partner for Camden up here in ME before I head down tomorrow.
|
|
|
|
|
jakedatc
Jul 5, 2007, 10:27 PM
Post #19357 of 22774
(7437 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 12, 2003
Posts: 11054
|
haha yes.. that could possibly be true.. you notice that no one else got on it :)
btw Sale at Bentgate.com.. 15% off anything.. just got some sportiva Solutions.. they are pretty sweeeet especially when they aren't full price which is a bit much IMO
|
|
|
|
|
rock_fencer
Jul 5, 2007, 10:54 PM
Post #19358 of 22774
(7429 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jan 7, 2005
Posts: 752
|
i finally got the .1 and .2 microcamalots to test out tim. they are wide but feel like the C4's
nice TR
What say you about gunks / North Conway for the weekend weather permiting
|
|
|
|
|
robbovius
Jul 6, 2007, 11:21 AM
Post #19359 of 22774
(7410 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 20, 2002
Posts: 8406
|
Jake, what time CR? the Deathscort is insisting on some repair work, but I really want to try andf get up on somehting saturday. College is the most convenient.
"Tard Gear" LOL!
|
|
|
|
|
jakedatc
Jul 6, 2007, 2:07 PM
Post #19360 of 22774
(7393 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 12, 2003
Posts: 11054
|
I'm not sure rob.. kate mentioned something about maybe going down to CT instead.. i will post up later with a better idea.. PM me your cell # i lost it at some poit
|
|
|
|
|
robbovius
Jul 6, 2007, 2:15 PM
Post #19361 of 22774
(7391 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 20, 2002
Posts: 8406
|
good enough, PeM sent.
|
|
|
|
|
jakedatc
Jul 7, 2007, 2:12 AM
Post #19362 of 22774
(7346 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 12, 2003
Posts: 11054
|
Rob, Should be good to go for CR tomorrow.. CT will wait for a longer weekend.. not sure of and ETA but we'll probably see ya at some point
|
|
|
|
|
robbovius
Jul 8, 2007, 3:11 PM
Post #19363 of 22774
(7317 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 20, 2002
Posts: 8406
|
Jake good times at CR yesterday. if only I coudl have remembered how I got thru the crimp traverse move on Techno Dweeb after that one time I did it.
.10 is hard. My fingers feel shredded today,
Feelin' strong dude, My attraction to CR is defeinitely re-awakened. it's a great little local "gym" ;-)
(This post was edited by robbovius on Jul 8, 2007, 3:16 PM)
|
|
|
|
|
jakedatc
Jul 8, 2007, 6:32 PM
Post #19364 of 22774
(7309 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 12, 2003
Posts: 11054
|
Yea rob.. CR takes getting used to and even then it'll still take it's toll on ya. something about almost every move being a crimp.
my fingers are a bit stiff but not too bad off. kate's hands are a bit sore though but she'll be ok
Can't help ya on the techno sequence.. i just kinda did it and made things work. haven't done it enough to have it memorized yet
|
|
|
|
|
benmoreite
Jul 9, 2007, 1:12 AM
Post #19365 of 22774
(7294 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Dec 17, 2006
Posts: 64
|
I've got some time off this week before I fly out to Idaho. Anyone up for some local climbing on Monday, Tuesday or Wednesday?
Climbed Thin Air this weekend. First multipitch lead, yeehaw!
|
|
|
|
|
rock_fencer
Jul 9, 2007, 4:03 PM
Post #19366 of 22774
(7266 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jan 7, 2005
Posts: 752
|
The past weekend at the gunks went great. Tim( treddy) and I left early sat. morning to meet up with Matt Smith and Mike Younis (fellow BU'ers). Started climbing around noon ticking dreamland in no time. I led Roseland (my 2nd 5.9) and we TRed Shit face. Tim bagged Birdcage to Birdland in an epic 1 pitch runout before rope drag and no gear stopped him 25 feet from the top at what had to be the most ackward belay stance ive encountered. While waiting on Mike and Matt to finish up P2 of Birdland we ran up the first pitch. Finished off the day on Grand Central switchihng leads with tim taking the roof. Next day headed all the way to the end of the trapps and both tim and i bagged Wedgtables while matt and mike sent some 8's. Headed back towards civilization and tim cruised up the .7 around the corner of ants line. Then Matt and I both ticked off ants line with mikey and tim cleaning. Finished off the day with Matt cruising horsemen in one pitch.
All in all the best day i have had at the gunks in a while taggin my first 10 and 2 9's. Matt ticked off his first gunks 9 and Tim is well on his quest for 11 on gear.
Cheers
T
(This post was edited by rock_fencer on Jul 9, 2007, 4:17 PM)
|
|
|
|
|
lewdsilver
Jul 9, 2007, 4:35 PM
Post #19368 of 22774
(7255 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 27, 2005
Posts: 29
|
Hi Rob,
Myself and few folks are thinking about a gunks trip that same weekend 21/22. Maybe we can link up on Sat. We'll likely leave after work on Fri.
5 of us hit up rumney on sat & checked out the hinterlands which was cool. fyi - there is a .10a on the far right on hinterlands (blanking on the name right now) before you take the ropes to crow's nest - kind of a mind f--- - you never get to climb a line always transitioning from one face, angle, or arette to the next, its cool - but I personally think if I never climbed it I would not be missing much. I wanted to climb the .10c next to giant man, but it started raining and I was kinda pumped after the weird .10a. I got to see someone send giant man in the rain though which was pretty cool. went down to starship enterprise and played on the dry .9's under the roof to wind down the day. There looks like there is a cool .10c to left of starship enterpise that I would like to go back to. After all that our crew rolled out that night to cathedral (after a jump in the river of course) & got dinner at the moat (it was the only place open @ 10pm in NoCo), so we could climb on sunday. Sunday morning was was wet wet wet & humid. At the observation deck on cathedral there was so much fog/humidity you could not see ANYTHING.
We played around on wet cracks @ the north end and had some fun. Child's play was the best climb to lead early in the day until things started drying out later. The rain pretty much stopped by 11:00AM. I dropped a rope for TRing to play around on the 5.9s, which were TOUGH b/c our hands kept ripping out of the wet cracks & smearing was challenging b/c things were slick - still a good time.
Looking forward to getting back up there when there is "mo friction" and less slipperiness.
|
|
|
|
|
lewdsilver
Jul 9, 2007, 4:44 PM
Post #19369 of 22774
(7252 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 27, 2005
Posts: 29
|
In reply to: Climbed Thin Air this weekend. First multipitch lead, yeehaw!
nice dude. I did the 1st pitch of upper refuse on the 4th as my first ever lead. I wanted to lead all of upper refuse that day, but dark clouds started rolling in and the wind was kicking up a little.
Since I am still slow at setting gear, I let my partner rip through the last 2 pitches so we could get out of there fast.
Good thing b/c it started pouring a little while later when we got to the car after walking down from the observation deck.
Hoping to hit up Thin Air soon. Do you recommend it?
any post climb do's & dont's?
|
|
|
|
|
benmoreite
Jul 9, 2007, 4:50 PM
Post #19370 of 22774
(7250 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Dec 17, 2006
Posts: 64
|
Thanks GO & lewd,
It was a great time. I lead pitches 1,2, and 3. I linked pitches 1 and 2 and belayed from the bolts at the end of pitch 2. I looked down and saw the lower belay stance (which I am guessing is the top of Windfall?) and got a little worried that I was in the wrong place, but the picture of pitch 3 in the Webster guide reassured me that I was in the right place.
Brought up my second and we managed what felt like a pretty quick and tidy transition and I headed up pitch 3. Headed out right, clipped the first fixed peg and spotted a piton a little up and right. Moved up and discovered that it was behind a very hollow thin flake. Clipped it anyway and then saw the piton I was looking for just a little further up and back left. Got over and clipped that and then down climbed a bit to unclip the other hollow pin. Headed up past the tree in the corner and gained the luxuriously sized belay ledge at the top of p3.
My partner had a bit less trad experience than me, but is generally a stronger climber and he was psyched to take on pitch 4 (and 5). He was a little slow getting going, but hit his stride after the first few pieces, and he sailed throught the crux move in the little corner. By this time I had a friend at the belay stance with me, a nice guy named Bob, who was leading some AMC folks. We chatted away as my partner finished the climb. Bob let me know that the pitch was almost exactly 100 ft. so when the mid-point of my rope came up I figured I'd be on belay soon. Instead it was like 5+ minutes before I got the off belay call. I had figured that my partner must have decided to build an anchor rather than using the tree. I found out when I got to the belay that he had climbed up, anchored off to the tree, and then he "spaced out" waiting for me, not realizing that I was waiting for him to call off belay  .
The "fifth pitch" went quickly and seemed to hardly merit the 5.2 rating.
We walked off and headed into town for some lunch and gear-store browsing. I was in the market for a climbing pack, and I picked up a Cold Cold World Valdez pack at IME that I am pretty excited about.
Then we headed over to the North End crag and took turns leading Child's Play. We had been nervous all week that the weather would turn out bad for the weekend, but it was gorgeous all day until about the last 5-feet of my lead when it started to rain. The rain got harder as I built my anchor, but by the time I had lowered down to clean my gear, the rain had stopped. I scurried back to the top on top-rope and rapped off.
We certainly didn't intentionally pick 7/7/07 for our first multipitch lead, but the day certainly turned out perfect!
p.s. still looking for anyoneinterested in QQ or other local climbing tomorrow or Wednesday morning?
|
|
|
|
|
lewdsilver
Jul 9, 2007, 7:09 PM
Post #19371 of 22774
(7231 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 27, 2005
Posts: 29
|
In reply to: p.s. still looking for anyoneinterested in QQ or other local climbing tomorrow or Wednesday morning?
Right on, thanks for the beta on thin air w/ the hollow flake. I will make sure I avoid that!
I was going to work on a boulder problems out Hammond Pond Temple Wall area 2morrow. I could motivate to QQ, but would need to meet you @ the Quincy T or connect somewhere in between b/c I don't have 4 wheels & a cumbustion engine.
I am up for other locales as well if you have suggestions.
|
|
|
|
|
a.frosch
Jul 9, 2007, 9:02 PM
Post #19372 of 22774
(7218 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 15, 2007
Posts: 69
|
C-dog,
[Beta Spray]
Be careful of the super-slippery algae goop just below the chimney on p3. That stuff is gross.
The hollow flake is, well, hollow, but easy.
Be sure to protect the second on the traverse.
Hint: instead of finishing on the 5.0 dirty gully, move right to a nice 5.8 slab move; basically a boulder problem right off the ledge.
[/beta spray]
Have fun and let me know how it goes when I get back.
And nice job on upper refuse. Not much pro for a first lead on the 1st pitch, is there? hehe
-Ari
(This post was edited by a.frosch on Jul 9, 2007, 9:04 PM)
|
|
|
|
|
lewdsilver
Jul 9, 2007, 9:12 PM
Post #19373 of 22774
(7215 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 27, 2005
Posts: 29
|
ari,
yeah I definitely ran out the end of that pitch a bit.
It looked like a big staircase so, "why not just go up!"  
Have a great trip out west and take pics!
Lets hit up some climbs when you return in the fall!
peace
|
|
|
|
|
robbovius
Jul 10, 2007, 11:05 AM
Post #19374 of 22774
(7185 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 20, 2002
Posts: 8406
|
Yo Lewd, sounds like you're climbing well. for gunks I'm happy up to .6s, and as it so happens, a coworker and I are planning on heading out there after work on wed the 18th, climbing thursday friday and past of saturday, and then I have to head home about 4 on saturday.
I'm planning on hitting CR for some evening workout this week, and purgatory saturday, just FYI.
|
|
|
|
|
lewdsilver
Jul 10, 2007, 1:09 PM
Post #19375 of 22774
(7377 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 27, 2005
Posts: 29
|
cool rob - I'll be away @ a regatta fri - sun (I know I know "boo, boo what not climbing?", chorus kicks in), but I would be up for doing mid week @ CR the next few weeks. I went there 1x and it was great.
what is the deal with purgatory? I have not been there.
|
|
|
|
|
|
