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PigsOnDrugs
Apr 27, 2009, 1:56 AM
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i have just started to Mock lead climb and im wondering how long i should practice on this method until i should move on to real lead climbing after all of the critical classes of course
(This post was edited by PigsOnDrugs on Apr 27, 2009, 10:19 PM)
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currupt4130
Apr 27, 2009, 1:59 AM
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Awesome. Well you should definitely mach lead until you can no longer stand breaking the sound barrier...
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PigsOnDrugs
Apr 27, 2009, 2:04 AM
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should i just move on to harder routes and eventually just do the lead climb lessons?
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lagwagonpcp
Apr 27, 2009, 2:08 AM
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stop it!!!!
man up!!!!
if its sport after one mach lead you should lead as long as you dont backclip. if its trad you shouldnt be mach leading, you should be clean aiding and already know about the ins/and outs of the gear "technique" until you can follow and/or leading
and um/er man up!!
love
be safe
climb on
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johnwesely
Apr 27, 2009, 2:09 AM
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Assuming this isn't a troll...
Don't mock lead. Learn what to do, and then do it. If you don't know how to lead correctly then mock leading is pointless, and if you do know then what are you doing mock leading?
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bill413
Apr 27, 2009, 2:18 AM
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lagwagonpcp wrote: if its sport after one mach lead you should lead as long as you dont backclip. if its trad you shouldnt be mach leading, you should be clean aiding and already know about the ins/and outs of the gear "technique" until you can follow and/or leading and um/er man up!! love be safe climb on
Exactly - although I didn't do the aid thing....but....if you have confidence in your placements...excellent. Get someone experienced to follow & critique them. If you don't have confidence in your placements, follow someone experienced & critique them.
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bill413
Apr 27, 2009, 2:34 AM
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Let me amend my previous...
If you don't feel confident - lead a few lower level climbs. If you do, and your mentor / critic gives you good feedback, go for it.
I think mock leading is an OK thing for one or two climbs - but after that it actually inhibits you. You need to get off toprope to lead.
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uni_jim
Apr 27, 2009, 2:38 AM
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PigsOnDrugs wrote: i have just started to mock lead climb and im wondering how long i should practice on this method until i should move on to real lead climbing after all of the critical classes of course
i have never done a mock lead, and personally think that it would be a waste of time. Mock leading does not do anything to prepare you for leading, and keeps the sharp end of the rope looking mysterious and distant for even longer than it should be. i think that as soon as a person thinks that they are ready to lead, they should. Next time you go climbing, lead your route.
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rocknice2
Apr 27, 2009, 2:42 AM
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If you need to ask your not ready.
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timstich
Apr 27, 2009, 2:54 AM
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Just a note. I believe the term is actually "mock lead" as in not quite leading, rather than say leading at some mach number - a measure of speed related to the sound barrier. I mean, those speed climbing people are fast...but.
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Brhino90
Apr 27, 2009, 2:55 AM
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would anyone like to explain what exactly a mock lead is?
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vegastradguy
Apr 27, 2009, 3:04 AM
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Brhino90 wrote: would anyone like to explain what exactly a mock lead is?
exactly what it sounds like.
climbing while on TR tied into another rope, to practice placing gear (or clipping bolts) and clipping.
personally, i'm not a fan- mock leading strikes me as fancy tr'ing- 90% of leading is your head and its ability to deal with the fact you're on the sharp end.
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currupt4130
Apr 27, 2009, 3:31 AM
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vegastradguy wrote: Brhino90 wrote: personally, i'm not a fan- mock leading strikes me as fancy tr'ing- 90% of leading is your head and its ability to deal with the fact you're on the sharp end.
Yep... You're pretty much wasting your time mock leading. It does nothing for you but allow you learn how to clip, which you can do sitting at a desk. When I first started leading I would sit at my desk with a draw hung off the edge and clip over and over while I sat around and had a beer at night.
Other than that it's worthless, you're just trailing a rope and doing unnecessary actions to make you feel like you can lead, all while keeping a tight belay.
If you're going to lead, then lead. If you're not, then just TR.
(This post was edited by currupt4130 on Apr 27, 2009, 5:41 PM)
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shoo
Apr 27, 2009, 3:52 AM
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Is mach leading referring the the speed at which you'll fall after f-ing up for being a n00b?
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PigsOnDrugs
Apr 27, 2009, 3:58 AM
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rhythm164
Apr 27, 2009, 4:22 AM
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You could just can the mock lead garbage and sack up. Just an idea.
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jt512
Apr 27, 2009, 4:44 AM
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About as long as you "mach-spell."
Jay
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esoteric1
Apr 27, 2009, 5:26 AM
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you could be the first on your block to be a mock leader,
mock boulder-er....hell even a mock wall climber...this could be the next sliced bread.
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robbovius
Apr 27, 2009, 11:34 AM
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currupt4130 wrote: Awesome. Well you should definitely mach lead until you can no longer stand breaking the sound barrier...
no way man, the shock wave from breaking the sound barrier will chip holds, and chipping holds is shitty ethics.
of course if he's mock-leading then he's wasting his time.
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Terry2124
Apr 27, 2009, 2:08 PM
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rocknice2 wrote: If you need to ask your not ready.
Agreed, you will know when your ready
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zealotnoob
Apr 27, 2009, 2:27 PM
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Getting caught up in mock-leading will most likely hinder your progress. No harm in doing it a couple times if you want/need the intermediary step, but get out there on the sharp end as soon as possible. It's not rocket science.
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markc
Apr 27, 2009, 2:33 PM
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bill413 wrote: Let me amend my previous... If you don't feel confident - lead a few lower level climbs. If you do, and your mentor / critic gives you good feedback, go for it. I think mock leading is an OK thing for one or two climbs - but after that it actually inhibits you. You need to get off toprope to lead.
I'm in agreement with this. For learning to lead, I suggest seconding for a while, paying close attention to how the individual pieces are placed, when and why things are extended, and studying the overall system. Next, i suggest a combination of reading and ground school, where you're placing a good bit of gear at ground level, building anchors, etc. I didn't do it, but some suggest aiding a few routes.
To get a feel for placing pro from a stance, I carried and plugged gear on one toproped climb. Later that day, I led an easier route, then repeated the line I had toproped earlier. I don't think mock leading any more than that would be useful. Truth be told, I can't say doing it once was incredibly useful. Doing it any more would have been counterproductive.
It's a fairly old school mindset, but I like the idea of dialing back technical difficulty while you get mileage. For early traditional climbs, I wanted placements, the protection system, and ropework to be my focus. That meant I needed to be climbing at a comfortable grade. By the time I was having nervous moments and taking falls on lead, I was confident in my systems. Some of the best advice I've heard is not to push your technical and placement abilities at one time.
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markc
Apr 27, 2009, 2:39 PM
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Terry2124 wrote: rocknice2 wrote: If you need to ask your [sic] not ready. Agreed, you will know when your [sic] ready
I'm glad you two are blessed with infallible intuition. There's nothing like discouraging questions to foster well-informed choices.
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IsayAutumn
Apr 27, 2009, 2:46 PM
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Judging by your profile pic, I would guess that you are referring to sport leading in a gym. I did mock leading for 5-10 routes before I started actually leading easier routes. Since you say you have had no instruction in leading, this approach will make sure you have a bit of a safety margin for the first few times before you get on the sharp end and back clip the shit out of yourself and deck. Have someone who knows what they are doing belay you while you are mock leading. 5-10 times doing this with a knowledgeable leader as your belay mule and you should be able to start leading easy gym routes without too much more "formal" instruction, IMHO.
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