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budman
Feb 1, 2010, 8:06 PM
Post #126 of 132
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Seeing where your from I think I understand. Yes. More or less learned to climb at The Gunks, more like a busy Manhattan street. Live about 45 minutes from Indian Creek, more over run than popular. Joshua Tree, The Valley, Devils Tower, New River Gorge (lots of 5.10's), Seneca, Little Cottonwoon Canyon, City of Rocks. Cathedral Ledge, and more. Keeping with the OP's question haven't seen many bolt cracks to start crack climbing on.
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cush
Feb 1, 2010, 8:20 PM
Post #127 of 132
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Registered: Oct 2, 2008
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it isn't a matter or ruining it for trad climbers. its a matter of it being entirely unnecessary to install bolts, and permanently alter and damage the rock. there's a reason the vast majority of routes that go on gear are NOT bolted. sometimes it's pretty cool to be able to go up to a face that isn't bolted all over the place because someone felt entitled to climb it just because they were either too impatient to save up, or too impatient to learn the ins and outs of gear.
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lucander
Feb 1, 2010, 9:03 PM
Post #128 of 132
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Registered: Jul 2, 2003
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Yak Crack (11/12 ish) at Red Rocks. Rumney (New Hampshire) has several retro-bolted crack climbs varying from 5.4 to very difficult.
DL
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climbingtrash
Feb 2, 2010, 12:41 AM
Post #129 of 132
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lucander wrote: Yak Crack (11/12 ish) at Red Rocks. Rumney (New Hampshire) has several retro-bolted crack climbs varying from 5.4 to very difficult. DL
Cannabis crack in AF is bolted too. I don't know about Rumny but Yak crack and Cannabis were bolted because the FA's thought it would be dumb to have one trad line on a grid bolted sport wall.
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camhead
Feb 2, 2010, 12:57 AM
Post #130 of 132
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climbingtrash wrote: lucander wrote: Yak Crack (11/12 ish) at Red Rocks. Rumney (New Hampshire) has several retro-bolted crack climbs varying from 5.4 to very difficult. DL Cannabis crack in AF is bolted too. I don't know about Rumny but Yak crack and Cannabis were bolted because the FA's thought it would be dumb to have one trad line on a grid bolted sport wall.
yeah, there is an excellent crack line in Mill Creek (though the crux is face moves) that was bolted because the FA realized that whips on stoppers at the crux would just weld them in place, leaving fixed gear. It's still a really nice route.
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cornstateclimber
Feb 2, 2010, 2:15 AM
Post #131 of 132
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Registered: Jul 24, 2005
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but not a single bolt in the park! well not any new ones there are some on top of cleos needle and a rap anchor on top of devils doorway. maybe a few 1/4inch bolts
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acorneau
Feb 2, 2010, 5:24 PM
Post #132 of 132
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Registered: Feb 6, 2008
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camhead wrote: yeah, there is an excellent crack line in Mill Creek (though the crux is face moves) that was bolted because the FA realized that whips on stoppers at the crux would just weld them in place, leaving fixed gear. It's still a really nice route.
Oh, the IRONING!!!!1!!one!!!
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