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I_do
Jan 29, 2010, 11:35 AM
Post #51 of 132
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acorneau wrote: airscape wrote: If you are at a sport crag and there are a few cracks there. Say for instance 100 routes 10 of which are cracks. Why not bolt the cracks? Who is going to go to a sport crag with a full trad rack to climb those 10 routes? 99% of all the people going to that crag will only take a sport rack, so it only makes sense to bolt the cracks and actually have people get pleasure from them as opposed to letting them be unused until some idiot brings along trad gear once every 20 years. Edit: I think the whole bolting cracks debate is fucking stupid. There is nothing that says you can't have trad lines in a mostly-sport area. Example: Horseshoe Canyon Ranch is a great sport climbing area yet there are some trad lines left unbolted because they are easily protectable. It's pretty simple: If you want to climb the trad lines at a given sport area then you better bring your rack. Duh!
There's no such thing as a trad line, if I put in a bolt every two feet it's a sport line. If I wanted to climb trad I'd go to a trad crag.
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c4c
Jan 29, 2010, 11:43 AM
Post #52 of 132
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[quote "dirtineye"]Sport climbers are all going to hell. I think I read that in the bible somewhere.[/quote]
true statement.
but so are boulderers and trad climbers and everyone else.
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BobfartsII
Jan 29, 2010, 11:56 AM
Post #53 of 132
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c4c wrote: [quote "dirtineye"]Sport climbers are all going to hell. I think I read that in the bible somewhere.[/quote] true statement. but so are boulderers and trad climbers and everyone else.
no no no not true, the bible clearly states that sport climbers are going to hell. there was something about it on fox news too...
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climbingtrash
Jan 29, 2010, 12:26 PM
Post #54 of 132
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airscape wrote: acorneau wrote: Example: Horseshoe Canyon Ranch is a great sport climbing area yet there are some trad lines left unbolted because they are easily protectable. It's pretty simple: If you want to climb the trad lines at a given sport area then you better bring your rack. Duh! If they where bolted you could still bring your trad rack. It's almost as if a crack is some sort of VIP nightclub and you can't come in unless you have the right friends.
Yes, you do need the right Friends...
 
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camhead
Jan 29, 2010, 12:30 PM
Post #55 of 132
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airscape wrote: acorneau wrote: Example: Horseshoe Canyon Ranch is a great sport climbing area yet there are some trad lines left unbolted because they are easily protectable. It's pretty simple: If you want to climb the trad lines at a given sport area then you better bring your rack. Duh! If they where bolted you could still bring your trad rack. It's almost as if a crack is some sort of VIP nightclub and you can't come in unless you have the right friends.
No, you don't need the right friends. Camalots or powercams work quite well, too.
Oh, and just to contribute more to this thread:
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johnwesely
Jan 29, 2010, 1:09 PM
Post #57 of 132
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climbingtrash wrote: airscape wrote: acorneau wrote: Example: Horseshoe Canyon Ranch is a great sport climbing area yet there are some trad lines left unbolted because they are easily protectable. It's pretty simple: If you want to climb the trad lines at a given sport area then you better bring your rack. Duh! If they where bolted you could still bring your trad rack. It's almost as if a crack is some sort of VIP nightclub and you can't come in unless you have the right friends. Yes, you do need the right Friends... [image]http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f277/climbingtrash/Myrack.jpg[/image][image]http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f277/climbingtrash/Anim_GeorgeWBush-TapDancing.gif[/image]
You beat me to it.
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cush
Jan 29, 2010, 5:32 PM
Post #58 of 132
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I_do wrote: acorneau wrote: airscape wrote: If you are at a sport crag and there are a few cracks there. Say for instance 100 routes 10 of which are cracks. Why not bolt the cracks? Who is going to go to a sport crag with a full trad rack to climb those 10 routes? 99% of all the people going to that crag will only take a sport rack, so it only makes sense to bolt the cracks and actually have people get pleasure from them as opposed to letting them be unused until some idiot brings along trad gear once every 20 years. Edit: I think the whole bolting cracks debate is fucking stupid. There is nothing that says you can't have trad lines in a mostly-sport area. Example: Horseshoe Canyon Ranch is a great sport climbing area yet there are some trad lines left unbolted because they are easily protectable. It's pretty simple: If you want to climb the trad lines at a given sport area then you better bring your rack. Duh! There's no such thing as a trad line, if I put in a bolt every two feet it's a sport line. If I wanted to climb trad I'd go to a trad crag.
i'm not sure whether you're joking or just stupid to a near paris hilton level
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I_do
Jan 29, 2010, 5:35 PM
Post #59 of 132
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cush wrote: I_do wrote: acorneau wrote: airscape wrote: If you are at a sport crag and there are a few cracks there. Say for instance 100 routes 10 of which are cracks. Why not bolt the cracks? Who is going to go to a sport crag with a full trad rack to climb those 10 routes? 99% of all the people going to that crag will only take a sport rack, so it only makes sense to bolt the cracks and actually have people get pleasure from them as opposed to letting them be unused until some idiot brings along trad gear once every 20 years. Edit: I think the whole bolting cracks debate is fucking stupid. There is nothing that says you can't have trad lines in a mostly-sport area. Example: Horseshoe Canyon Ranch is a great sport climbing area yet there are some trad lines left unbolted because they are easily protectable. It's pretty simple: If you want to climb the trad lines at a given sport area then you better bring your rack. Duh! There's no such thing as a trad line, if I put in a bolt every two feet it's a sport line. If I wanted to climb trad I'd go to a trad crag. i'm not sure whether you're joking or just stupid to a near paris hilton level
Trad is neither.
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shimanilami
Jan 29, 2010, 6:13 PM
Post #60 of 132
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Yawn.
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I_do
Jan 29, 2010, 6:19 PM
Post #61 of 132
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Now there´s a worthwhile contribution if I´ve ever seen one.
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shimanilami
Jan 29, 2010, 6:28 PM
Post #62 of 132
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You're welcome.
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climbingaz
Jan 29, 2010, 8:41 PM
Post #64 of 132
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Damn it, I just wasted another 10 minutes of my life reading this thread. I really tried hard not to, but couldn't help myself.
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tehbillzor
Jan 30, 2010, 12:23 AM
Post #65 of 132
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What about bolting cracks for people who simply cant afford a trad rack.
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tehbillzor
Jan 30, 2010, 2:26 AM
Post #67 of 132
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No; I don't want obama to do anything but resign, but that is neither here nor their. All that I am saying is that having bolted routes are very convenient for me, and most of the people who I climb with (college ages) because we don't have $1500+ to spend on trad gear.
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climbingtrash
Jan 30, 2010, 3:36 AM
Post #68 of 132
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tehbillzor wrote: No; I don't want obama to do anything but resign, but that is neither here nor their. All that I am saying is that having bolted routes are very convenient for me, and most of the people who I climb with (college ages) because we don't have $1500+ to spend on trad gear.
Okay, good...we'll keep 0bama outta this.
So it's like this...bolts aren't placed to make a climb convienent. They're placed to protect unprotectable routes.(face climbs in most cases) Crack climbing was an established style of climbing looong before the bolting of sport routes. The idea of bolting cracks to make them more accessible to the young, poor and scared has been mention many times before on this site, usually by someone who is new to the sport and can't afford the gear. Hey, I was there once too. I haven't been to college either...but I own a rack, and a home, and I manage to get out climbing a fair amount. Enjoy clipping bolts for now. Finnish school or get a job, and if you stick with this sport you'll find the money to buy a rack. We all did.
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climbingtrash
Jan 30, 2010, 5:36 AM
Post #69 of 132
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olderic
Jan 30, 2010, 2:56 PM
Post #71 of 132
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tehbillzor wrote: No; I don't want obama to do anything but resign, but that is neither here nor their. All that I am saying is that having bolted routes are very convenient for me, and most of the people who I climb with (college ages) because we don't have $1500+ to spend on trad gear.
Vintage whine. Wasn't good when it was young and has gained no credibility with age.
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climbingtrash
Jan 30, 2010, 3:11 PM
Post #72 of 132
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camhead wrote: climbingtrash wrote: Finnish school or get a job You could even get a job at Finnish School!
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shockabuku
Jan 30, 2010, 5:25 PM
Post #73 of 132
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tehbillzor wrote: No; I don't want obama to do anything but resign, but that is neither here nor their. All that I am saying is that having bolted routes are very convenient for me, and most of the people who I climb with (college ages) because we don't have $1500+ to spend on trad gear.
You want someone else to spend their money, and their time, to bolt a crack for you because you'd rather spend your money and time going to college?
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johnwesely
Jan 30, 2010, 6:00 PM
Post #74 of 132
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tehbillzor wrote: What about bolting cracks for people who simply cant afford a trad rack.
Boo hoo hoo. Guess what Billzor? I am in college, and guess what? I have a trad rack, And guess what? I bought it all with money from part time jobs that payed between 7 and 9 dollars an hour, and guess what? You are a whiny baby.
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tehbillzor
Jan 30, 2010, 8:53 PM
Post #75 of 132
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Johnwesly it is great that you have the ingenuity to purchase a rack, but every ones situation is different. My intent was not to be a whinny baby, but rather to communicate my point of view on the topic. I guess what I don't understand is why having bolts 2-3ft off of a crack would ruin it for a trad climber. Perhaps once I have done my fair share of trad climbs I will understand.
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