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LucP
Mar 20, 2007, 6:02 PM
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Hi
I'm compiling a l list of the biggest, best, hardest, most technically difficult, unusual dynos to be found around the world. I've already got a load from France and the UK, and only few in the US, NZ, IT. I am struggling to develop my list for areas outside of the UK and France and so throw myself at your mercy! Can anyone help me with this. I need more dynos from the USA, South Africa, New Zealand, Italy, Japan, if you can think of a country with a dyno that fits the bill I'd really like to know about it.
Cheers
Luc
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bandycoot
Mar 20, 2007, 6:21 PM
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Belly Flop, at Black Mountain. It is rated V13 and has a hell of a (well named) landing if you fuck up. check out the movie Soul Cal. FA Chris Linder.
Josh
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thomasribiere
Mar 20, 2007, 6:33 PM
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I suppose you have the famous French "Hale Bopp" problem in Fontainebleau (in Franchard Cusinière I think). Long double dyno. Ranging from 7c+ to 8a+ according to the height of the climber.
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sungam
Mar 20, 2007, 6:47 PM
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LucP
Mar 20, 2007, 7:12 PM
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Thanks Josh.
That's going on my list tonight. I've seen So Cal and know the dyno you're talking about. Very very well named.
Cheers
Luc
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LucP
Mar 20, 2007, 7:14 PM
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Hi Thomas
Yes, this was one of the first on my list. Thanks for checking, though. Wasn't sure about the grade as it seems opinion is divided on this. Guess the problem's a bit morpho.
Cheers
Luc
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LucP
Mar 20, 2007, 7:17 PM
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Hi Magnus
This is what I've got on Scotland, so far....
Flying Pig
Cautious Lip
Main Issue
Flying Roofs
Jammed Block Dyno
Main Dyno
Pod Dyno
Sunsup
Dynosaur
Slaphappy
Pitt Dyno
Boomer Dyno
+ a dyno at Reiff In the Woods.
Scottish bouldering does look fantastic. I got a copy of Stone Country shortly after it came out and am looking forward to a trip up there sometime. Want to avoid the midges if I can help it...hate the little buggers....they're bad enough when I get to the Peak or even on places like Dartmoor.
If can add to the list that'd be great.
Cheers
Luc
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sungam
Mar 21, 2007, 9:15 PM
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sungam
Mar 21, 2007, 9:17 PM
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winglessangel
Mar 21, 2007, 9:26 PM
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Hi, I got one for you.
The name is "Bote Impossível" or "Impossible Dyno"
it is a Brazilian Xa equivalent to Yosemite 5.13c
It is located in the city of Rio de Janeiro, RJ, Brazil, inside Grajaú Natural Reserve.
here is link to a youtube video where some try it on sport and other as a highball. Daniel "Coçada" Hans sends it as a highball.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XWQyNDi0LLE
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winglessangel
Mar 21, 2007, 9:38 PM
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and on a curious note, if you ever write about dynos maybe you should add that.
The word we use, bote, for dynos is not a direct translation. No, that would be dinâmico.
Bote, in portuguese, is the name of that final jump predators do in order to cach their prey. Cool, hu?
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trenchdigger
Mar 21, 2007, 10:16 PM
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bandycoot wrote: Belly Flop, at Black Mountain. It is rated V13 and has a hell of a (well named) landing if you fuck up. check out the movie Soul Cal. FA Chris Linder. Josh
Yup... here's a pic of what happens if you blow the attempt.
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Bellyflop_700.jpg
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LucP
Mar 22, 2007, 7:06 AM
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Hi Magnus
Ah-haa! So the Reiff in the Woods problem has name! Thanks for that I can change it from Dyno to The Main Issue. And thanks for the Catch-22.
From a photo of The Main Issue you get the impression that there isn't much to it. However the video reveals all! Nice tree to scrape your back down if you fluff it. It reminds me of Feeling Rewind in Albarracin. When my mate David was working up to the FA he just kept hitting the tree. We strapped a crash pad to the tree to see if that'd easy things a bit. Apparently it still hurt as much!
Cheers
Luc
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LucP
Mar 22, 2007, 7:14 AM
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Hi Winglesassanel.
Thanks for this one. Very much appreciated.
I really like this one. It's high, real high, and it was great to see it being sent without a rope. Thanks for the "curiosity" with regards what you guy's call a dyno. I really like it. It'd be interesting to know what other people around the world call dynos. In the meantime I'm adding Bote to my dictionary as I think it's going to get used :-)
Let me know if you've got any more.
Cheers
Luc
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bent_gate
Mar 22, 2007, 8:03 AM
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trenchdigger wrote: bandycoot wrote: Belly Flop, at Black Mountain. It is rated V13 and has a hell of a (well named) landing if you fuck up. check out the movie Soul Cal. FA Chris Linder. Josh Yup... here's a pic of what happens if you blow the attempt. 
Wow. Even Neo wasn't able to do that in The Matrix...
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LucP
Mar 22, 2007, 8:12 AM
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Hey Josh
Thanks for this pic.
I really like it. Not sure I'd want to take that faceplant! I seem to remember it's not just a faceplant but a bit of a slide too?.
Bent_Gate...imagine if you could get a camera to do a rotating tracking shot around the climber frozen in mid air...and then catch the faceplant from another angle (al la Matrix).....now that'd be really cool ;-)
Cheers
Luc
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petje
Mar 22, 2007, 10:09 AM
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i stumbled over this ones
Jacadi
http://bleau.info/canche/158.html
and this one
le puce
http://bleau.info/canche/159.html
On http://you find all in bleau. duh!
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petje
Mar 22, 2007, 10:18 AM
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this is one of the nicest i've done.
http://bleau.info/sabots/771.html
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LucP
Mar 22, 2007, 11:36 AM
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Thanks for all of these. I am going to follow all of the links to get the names....I recognise most of them but can't remember all the names.
Cheers for this.
Luc
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petje
Mar 22, 2007, 12:33 PM
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It was not that hard. search bleau.info with the phrase: dyno.
As i said, there are more there to find!
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LucP
Mar 22, 2007, 12:48 PM
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Believe it or not I did do a search on "dyno" on Bleau.info and it came back say there were no routes of that name! And so thanks very much for successfully unearthing these.
The mass of dynos in Font is incredible. I am still struggling to find other ones from elsehwhere. Can you recommend other websites I might be able to search on?
Cheers
Luc
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liverspot
Mar 22, 2007, 1:09 PM
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There is a roof dyno not that high off the ground on Dover Island, Nova Scotia. I don't have the time to find any pics but I think it goes at V8. Basically you start way under the roof and you have to dyno straight horizontal and catch the lip. Out of my league but looked awesome.
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LucP
Mar 22, 2007, 1:15 PM
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Cool, nice one.....a bit more exotic w.r.t location :-)
Cheers for that one.
Luc
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petje
Mar 22, 2007, 1:34 PM
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try the german bouldersites!
http://www.stonevibes.de
http://www.boulderrausch.de
http://hwww.bouldering.de
http://www.kletternimnorden.de
http://www.ropeless.de
http://www.boulderholics.de
french
http://lezartistes.org/
http://www.zebloc.com/
austrian
http://www.overhang.at/
united kingdom
http://ukbouldering.com/
http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/index.asp
http://www.climbonline.co.uk/north_wales_bouldering.htm
http://www.yorkshiregrit.com/index.html
ireland
http://www.theshortspan.com/
swiss
http://www.sloper.ch/sloper_mainh.php
Belgian
www.belclimb.net
www.grimpe.be
tec. tec
dyno's that comes into mind now are deliverance and the buxkstone dyno at the plantation in the peak district in england. Overly classics!
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LucP
Mar 22, 2007, 1:40 PM
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Nice one. Cheers.
Yep I've got the Buckstone and Deliverance...uber classics!
Looks like I've got my work cut out now :-)
Cheers
Luc
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petje
Mar 22, 2007, 2:20 PM
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Don't forget to share your final result
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LucP
Mar 22, 2007, 2:56 PM
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Don't worry I am going to publish the list. There is still a long way to go yet. I've nothing on Japan, only a handful of dynos in the USA, and there's still loads to get from elsewhere...of this I am sure!
Cheers
Luc
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miademus
Mar 29, 2007, 1:27 PM
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Cool research...
need something from here too?
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LucP
Mar 29, 2007, 1:47 PM
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Hi
Most certainly yes please :-) I know nothing about climbing in Iran and so it would be great to include dynos you have too.
Cheers
Luc
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miademus
Mar 29, 2007, 2:09 PM
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i'm going on a boulder trip in a few hours gonna be there for about 3 days, i'll see if i can find some great stuff for you...just keep in touch ,aigh't
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LucP
Mar 29, 2007, 2:18 PM
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That's great. Have a fantastic time. Will check back with you after the weekend.
Cheers
Luc
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miademus
Apr 2, 2007, 1:46 PM
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LucP wrote: That's great. Have a fantastic time. Will check back with you after the weekend. Cheers Luc
Well i arrived home this morning, was very cold there, i've compiled you some pictures which i have to admit got very poor quality. If it is in your intrest i'll get you good quality pix and all around more dynos which are more powerful.
this one is short but powerful
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Darvazeh jump,at Mt. Sofeh entrance Isfahan.JPG
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Teh red wall, at the Mt. Sofeh stairs Isfahan.JPG
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side dyno, at Anjir Cave (fig cave) Mt. Sofeh Isfahan.JPG
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dyno, at Kolah Ghazi-Ma'adan Isfahan.jpg
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dyno, at mohit zist Isfahan .jpg
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zin-e Asp dyno,at Band Yakhchal tehran.jpg
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capibara
Apr 2, 2007, 5:24 PM
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In joes valey utah there is a dyno problem dubed
"Pocket Rocket" V6. defettly a classic of the area and a fun problem two.
Theres pics here:
http://www.rockclimbing.com/routes/North_America/United_States/Utah/Central_Utah/Joes_Valley/Pocket_Rocket_Boulder/
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LucP
Apr 2, 2007, 5:37 PM
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Thanks for this; Pocket Rocket. I seem to have it on the list already but your help is very much appreciated....I've got a grade against it too :-)
I liked the photos. Looks like one of those problems which benefits the tall!
If you can think of any others bring'em on!
Cheers
Luc
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LucP
Apr 2, 2007, 5:44 PM
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Thanks for these. The rock in Iran looks incredible. I couldn't believe the snow! The images we get here of Iran are ones of dust and dryness but when you see your photos it's quite incredible and beautiful.
I'll be adding the dynos to my list. Do you have any idea how hard they are?
Unfortunately the photo after "this one is short but powerful" didn't appear.
Please do post some good quality pix and more dynos if you have them. I'd like to see them.
In complete contrast to your cold weekend...we've had quite a warm one. I even managed to climb a little yesterday despite and injured finger. I realised that I am hungry to climb more than ever!
Cheers
Luc 
www.gigglingpixiemedia.com
PS. Take a look at this: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iZaeRC0rpgs
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sungam
Apr 2, 2007, 6:30 PM
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LucP
Apr 2, 2007, 6:47 PM
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I could well be hitting the road sometime. Not sure when as I have some projects on the boil which may take priority + it depends on where this research takes me. I'd really appreciate anything you've got on dyno's anywhere. Photo's would be great, too.
Interestingly my list is heading for the other side of 150!!! Most of them are in Europe and I have just a few outside. If a road trip does materialize I have to decide on whether or not it's to cover as much as possible as far and wide as possible or to just cover Europe. Will most probably boil down to time and money. We'll see. Can't say much more than that at the moment.
I will post/publish the list sometime soon...when I think that I've gathered as much as I possibly can. Hopefully that won't be too far off....although I am not doing well with dynos from the USA and I have none for Japan or other far flung places. Know any thereabouts??
Cheers
Luc
(This post was edited by LucP on Apr 2, 2007, 6:50 PM)
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miademus
Apr 2, 2007, 7:18 PM
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LucP wrote: Thanks for these. The rock in Iran looks incredible. I couldn't believe the snow! The images we get here of Iran are ones of dust and dryness but when you see your photos it's quite incredible and beautiful. I'll be adding the dynos to my list. Do you have any idea how hard they are? Unfortunately the photo after "this one is short but powerful" didn't appear. Please do post some good quality pix and more dynos if you have them. I'd like to see them. In complete contrast to your cold weekend...we've had quite a warm one. I even managed to climb a little yesterday despite and injured finger. I realised that I am hungry to climb more than ever! Cheers Luc www.gigglingpixiemedia.com PS. Take a look at this: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iZaeRC0rpgs
Glad you liked it.
-Darvazeh jump= depends from 5.10a-11a probably
-The red wall is quiet a warmup spot but the jump gets harder when you try to hit them from down so from 5.9- possible 12b/c
-Dyno at mohit zist= 5.10d i belive it is much harder
-Dyno at Kolah ghazi=5.10a
-side dyno at Anjir cave(which has got dozen of dynos)=5.11a
-Zin-e Asp= 5.10b/c as local climbers said.
"this one is short but powerful" you can view it on my posted photos under the name"jean on blood spread"
I'll be at university down in shiraz in 3 days, but i'll try to get you some good stuff around here, good to hear you had a good climbing days, cheers
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sungam
Apr 2, 2007, 7:19 PM
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LucP
Apr 2, 2007, 8:33 PM
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Nice one. Can update my list now.
Cheers
Luc
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LucP
Apr 2, 2007, 8:36 PM
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Hey Magnus
Thanks for these. I've got a lot of updating to do now! I think i'll get it done in the morning.
It's going to keep me out of trouble
Cheers
Luc
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LucP
Apr 3, 2007, 6:34 AM
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Hi Miademus
I still can't see the problem "Blood Spread." There is a thumbnail on your profile but the actual photo doesn't appear for me. I don't know if this is the same other people.
Cheers
Luc
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LucP
Apr 3, 2007, 12:01 PM
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Hi,
How frustrating is this??? I still can't see it
Sorry 
Luc
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miademus
Apr 4, 2007, 11:45 AM
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i just realized that i can't see it neither. where is my pic gone?
ps:i'm away for a few weeks get back at you as soon as possible
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LucP
Apr 4, 2007, 11:55 AM
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Looking forward to being in touch in few weeks.
I can always try to zoom in on the thumbnail.
Cheers
Luc
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vanclimber
Apr 4, 2007, 1:09 PM
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I've got some for you from North America
1) Dunk and Dangle, South Lake Tahoe, CA V10
2) The Comet, Rocktown, TN, 7A-7B
3) Saturday Night Live, Joshua Tree, CA, V4
I thought of another one but I forgot it while I was typing...doh!
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LucP
Apr 4, 2007, 1:29 PM
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Nice one vanclimber.
That's a few more. Which state is TN? Is it Tennessee? Do you spell it like that??
This is great not only do I get to make a list but also expand my knowledge of world geography!
Cheers
Luc
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mchristie
Apr 7, 2007, 5:57 PM
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vanclimber wrote: I've got some for you from North America 1) Dunk and Dangle, South Lake Tahoe, CA V10 2) The Comet, Rocktown, TN, 7A-7B 3) Saturday Night Live, Joshua Tree, CA, V4 I thought of another one but I forgot it while I was typing...doh!
Rocktown is in Georgia not Tennessee.
And since 'm posting.........here's a few of my favorites
Castaway ........at Little Rock City, TN
What's Left of Les.........Hueco Tanks, Texas
Harvest Moon........Zhand Georgia
Mad Skills.............Grandmother, NC
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edl
Apr 9, 2007, 12:18 AM
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A few I have heard of from the U.S.
Trogdoor (V9): Black hills of South Dakota, footage of this problem on Friction Addiction. FA: ?
And The NFL (Ninja For Life) Dyno (V10): Vedauwoo, WY. FA: Alex DeFelice. For info on this contact Davin Bagdonas, author of Vedauwoo bouldering.
Just a couple, hope that helps.
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zabens
Apr 9, 2007, 2:15 AM
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vanclimber wrote: I've got some for you from North America 1) Dunk and Dangle, South Lake Tahoe, CA V10 2) The Comet, Rocktown, TN, 7A-7B 3) Saturday Night Live, Joshua Tree, CA, V4 I thought of another one but I forgot it while I was typing...doh!
You can't leave out Planet X at JTree!!!
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vanclimber
Apr 9, 2007, 4:39 PM
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mchristie wrote: Rocktown is in Georgia not Tennessee.
Thanks for the correction.
I remembered another one, Doggy Jump, Hueco Tanks, V10
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sungam
Apr 15, 2007, 6:10 PM
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eddie_munster
May 8, 2007, 4:12 AM
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a few more:
*Iron Fly @ Buttermilks, CA
*Fly Boy @ Buttermiks, CA (not a pure dyno, but a classic problem with a crux ending dyno).
*Speed of Light dyno @ Black Mt., CA (John Long classic).
*Prozac @ The Happy Boulders, CA.
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collegekid
May 24, 2007, 5:03 AM
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bent_gate wrote: trenchdigger wrote: bandycoot wrote: Belly Flop, at Black Mountain. It is rated V13 and has a hell of a (well named) landing if you fuck up. check out the movie Soul Cal. FA Chris Linder. Josh Yup... here's a pic of what happens if you blow the attempt. [image]http://www.rockclimbing.com/cgi-bin/forum/gforum.cgi?do=post_attachment;postatt_id=678;[/image] Wow. Even Neo wasn't able to do that in The Matrix...
Adam, did you take that? Rad picture.
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miademus
Jun 1, 2007, 8:23 PM
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hey luc, how is ur research going further?
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deepplaymedia
Jun 2, 2007, 1:16 AM
Post #59 of 61
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Registered: Sep 30, 2005
Posts: 192
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'Symptoms of slow twitch motion' (v10) in quantum field, castle hill basin (NZ)
i got well & truly shut down!!
ive got some pics floating around somewhere....
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pseudolith
Jun 26, 2007, 3:54 PM
Post #60 of 61
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Registered: Sep 30, 2005
Posts: 96
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If you're still trying to gather some dynos in the U.S., I've got a couple that may or may not be on your list yet.
Spyro Gyro at the Stone Fort (formerly LRC) in Soddy Daisy, TN. V8-ish, though some claim it's easier. I haven't stuck it yet.
Flying High (V11) is also at the Stone Fort, established last December by Tony Lamiche.
At Horsepens 40, there is a dyno variation to American Pie, which goes at V9 without the dyno. I'm not sure what it's graded with it.
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drunkenmaster
Jul 2, 2007, 7:33 PM
Post #61 of 61
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Registered: Oct 23, 2002
Posts: 18
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Dynos are so fukn fun - when i get tired after bouldering all day i usually like to end the day with a crazy dyno feeding frenzy! WORD. My bros and i also like to go frikn nutso with dynos in the gym yo!
Heres some more all natural real rock USA Dynos:
-Angels Dyno V7 Mega Classic - John Long FA
Red Rocks, Las Vegas, Nevada.
-Disco Diva V8 Happy Boulders, California.
-Yuji's Dyno V6 Mickeys Beach, California.
-Fort Rossta V4 (or V6 sit) Fort Ross, California.
eliminate variation - Flying Monkey V7/8
(or V8/9 sit) skip the smaller closer hold on Fort Rossta and dyno all the way to the flat jug lip below the top!
Sharma's Dyno V?hard! Lost Rocks, California.
(access issues)
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