|
LucP
Mar 20, 2007, 6:02 PM
Post #1 of 61
(7543 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 20, 2007
Posts: 24
|
Hi I'm compiling a l list of the biggest, best, hardest, most technically difficult, unusual dynos to be found around the world. I've already got a load from France and the UK, and only few in the US, NZ, IT. I am struggling to develop my list for areas outside of the UK and France and so throw myself at your mercy! Can anyone help me with this. I need more dynos from the USA, South Africa, New Zealand, Italy, Japan, if you can think of a country with a dyno that fits the bill I'd really like to know about it. Cheers Luc
|
|
|
|
|
bandycoot
Mar 20, 2007, 6:21 PM
Post #2 of 61
(7519 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 25, 2002
Posts: 2028
|
Belly Flop, at Black Mountain. It is rated V13 and has a hell of a (well named) landing if you fuck up. check out the movie Soul Cal. FA Chris Linder. Josh
|
|
|
|
|
thomasribiere
Mar 20, 2007, 6:33 PM
Post #3 of 61
(7503 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Aug 24, 2002
Posts: 9306
|
I suppose you have the famous French "Hale Bopp" problem in Fontainebleau (in Franchard Cusinière I think). Long double dyno. Ranging from 7c+ to 8a+ according to the height of the climber.
|
|
|
|
|
sungam
Mar 20, 2007, 6:47 PM
Post #4 of 61
(7488 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 24, 2004
Posts: 26804
|
|
|
|
|
|
LucP
Mar 20, 2007, 7:12 PM
Post #5 of 61
(7467 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 20, 2007
Posts: 24
|
Thanks Josh. That's going on my list tonight. I've seen So Cal and know the dyno you're talking about. Very very well named. Cheers Luc
|
|
|
|
|
LucP
Mar 20, 2007, 7:14 PM
Post #6 of 61
(7466 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 20, 2007
Posts: 24
|
Hi Thomas Yes, this was one of the first on my list. Thanks for checking, though. Wasn't sure about the grade as it seems opinion is divided on this. Guess the problem's a bit morpho. Cheers Luc
|
|
|
|
|
LucP
Mar 20, 2007, 7:17 PM
Post #7 of 61
(7464 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 20, 2007
Posts: 24
|
Hi Magnus This is what I've got on Scotland, so far.... Flying Pig Cautious Lip Main Issue Flying Roofs Jammed Block Dyno Main Dyno Pod Dyno Sunsup Dynosaur Slaphappy Pitt Dyno Boomer Dyno + a dyno at Reiff In the Woods. Scottish bouldering does look fantastic. I got a copy of Stone Country shortly after it came out and am looking forward to a trip up there sometime. Want to avoid the midges if I can help it...hate the little buggers....they're bad enough when I get to the Peak or even on places like Dartmoor. If can add to the list that'd be great. Cheers Luc
|
|
|
|
|
sungam
Mar 21, 2007, 9:15 PM
Post #8 of 61
(7402 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 24, 2004
Posts: 26804
|
|
|
|
|
|
sungam
Mar 21, 2007, 9:17 PM
Post #9 of 61
(7400 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 24, 2004
Posts: 26804
|
|
|
|
|
|
winglessangel
Mar 21, 2007, 9:26 PM
Post #10 of 61
(7392 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 29, 2004
Posts: 459
|
Hi, I got one for you. The name is "Bote Impossível" or "Impossible Dyno" it is a Brazilian Xa equivalent to Yosemite 5.13c It is located in the city of Rio de Janeiro, RJ, Brazil, inside Grajaú Natural Reserve. here is link to a youtube video where some try it on sport and other as a highball. Daniel "Coçada" Hans sends it as a highball. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XWQyNDi0LLE
|
|
|
|
|
winglessangel
Mar 21, 2007, 9:38 PM
Post #11 of 61
(7380 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 29, 2004
Posts: 459
|
and on a curious note, if you ever write about dynos maybe you should add that. The word we use, bote, for dynos is not a direct translation. No, that would be dinâmico. Bote, in portuguese, is the name of that final jump predators do in order to cach their prey. Cool, hu?
|
|
|
|
|
trenchdigger
Mar 21, 2007, 10:16 PM
Post #12 of 61
(7361 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 9, 2003
Posts: 1447
|
bandycoot wrote: Belly Flop, at Black Mountain. It is rated V13 and has a hell of a (well named) landing if you fuck up. check out the movie Soul Cal. FA Chris Linder. Josh Yup... here's a pic of what happens if you blow the attempt.
|
Attachments:
|
Bellyflop_700.jpg
(147 KB)
|
|
|
|
|
LucP
Mar 22, 2007, 7:06 AM
Post #13 of 61
(7320 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 20, 2007
Posts: 24
|
Hi Magnus Ah-haa! So the Reiff in the Woods problem has name! Thanks for that I can change it from Dyno to The Main Issue. And thanks for the Catch-22. From a photo of The Main Issue you get the impression that there isn't much to it. However the video reveals all! Nice tree to scrape your back down if you fluff it. It reminds me of Feeling Rewind in Albarracin. When my mate David was working up to the FA he just kept hitting the tree. We strapped a crash pad to the tree to see if that'd easy things a bit. Apparently it still hurt as much! Cheers Luc
|
|
|
|
|
LucP
Mar 22, 2007, 7:14 AM
Post #14 of 61
(7316 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 20, 2007
Posts: 24
|
Hi Winglesassanel. Thanks for this one. Very much appreciated. I really like this one. It's high, real high, and it was great to see it being sent without a rope. Thanks for the "curiosity" with regards what you guy's call a dyno. I really like it. It'd be interesting to know what other people around the world call dynos. In the meantime I'm adding Bote to my dictionary as I think it's going to get used :-) Let me know if you've got any more. Cheers Luc
|
|
|
|
|
bent_gate
Mar 22, 2007, 8:03 AM
Post #15 of 61
(7306 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jul 1, 2004
Posts: 2620
|
trenchdigger wrote: bandycoot wrote: Belly Flop, at Black Mountain. It is rated V13 and has a hell of a (well named) landing if you fuck up. check out the movie Soul Cal. FA Chris Linder. Josh Yup... here's a pic of what happens if you blow the attempt. Wow. Even Neo wasn't able to do that in The Matrix...
|
|
|
|
|
LucP
Mar 22, 2007, 8:12 AM
Post #16 of 61
(7300 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 20, 2007
Posts: 24
|
Hey Josh Thanks for this pic. I really like it. Not sure I'd want to take that faceplant! I seem to remember it's not just a faceplant but a bit of a slide too?. Bent_Gate...imagine if you could get a camera to do a rotating tracking shot around the climber frozen in mid air...and then catch the faceplant from another angle (al la Matrix).....now that'd be really cool ;-) Cheers Luc
|
|
|
|
|
petje
Mar 22, 2007, 10:09 AM
Post #17 of 61
(7287 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 10, 2003
Posts: 309
|
i stumbled over this ones Jacadi http://bleau.info/canche/158.html and this one le puce http://bleau.info/canche/159.html On http://you find all in bleau. duh!
|
|
|
|
|
petje
Mar 22, 2007, 10:18 AM
Post #18 of 61
(7285 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 10, 2003
Posts: 309
|
this is one of the nicest i've done. http://bleau.info/sabots/771.html
|
|
|
|
|
LucP
Mar 22, 2007, 11:36 AM
Post #20 of 61
(7269 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 20, 2007
Posts: 24
|
Thanks for all of these. I am going to follow all of the links to get the names....I recognise most of them but can't remember all the names. Cheers for this. Luc
|
|
|
|
|
petje
Mar 22, 2007, 12:33 PM
Post #21 of 61
(7257 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 10, 2003
Posts: 309
|
It was not that hard. search bleau.info with the phrase: dyno. As i said, there are more there to find!
|
|
|
|
|
LucP
Mar 22, 2007, 12:48 PM
Post #22 of 61
(7254 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 20, 2007
Posts: 24
|
Believe it or not I did do a search on "dyno" on Bleau.info and it came back say there were no routes of that name! And so thanks very much for successfully unearthing these. The mass of dynos in Font is incredible. I am still struggling to find other ones from elsehwhere. Can you recommend other websites I might be able to search on? Cheers Luc
|
|
|
|
|
liverspot
Mar 22, 2007, 1:09 PM
Post #23 of 61
(7246 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 8, 2005
Posts: 18
|
There is a roof dyno not that high off the ground on Dover Island, Nova Scotia. I don't have the time to find any pics but I think it goes at V8. Basically you start way under the roof and you have to dyno straight horizontal and catch the lip. Out of my league but looked awesome.
|
|
|
|
|
LucP
Mar 22, 2007, 1:15 PM
Post #24 of 61
(7243 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 20, 2007
Posts: 24
|
Cool, nice one.....a bit more exotic w.r.t location :-) Cheers for that one. Luc
|
|
|
|
|
petje
Mar 22, 2007, 1:34 PM
Post #25 of 61
(7235 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 10, 2003
Posts: 309
|
try the german bouldersites! http://www.stonevibes.de http://www.boulderrausch.de http://hwww.bouldering.de http://www.kletternimnorden.de http://www.ropeless.de http://www.boulderholics.de french http://lezartistes.org/ http://www.zebloc.com/ austrian http://www.overhang.at/ united kingdom http://ukbouldering.com/ http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/index.asp http://www.climbonline.co.uk/north_wales_bouldering.htm http://www.yorkshiregrit.com/index.html ireland http://www.theshortspan.com/ swiss http://www.sloper.ch/sloper_mainh.php Belgian www.belclimb.net www.grimpe.be tec. tec dyno's that comes into mind now are deliverance and the buxkstone dyno at the plantation in the peak district in england. Overly classics!
|
|
|
|
|
|