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tolman_paul
Feb 25, 2008, 11:17 PM
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Best will depend on the shape of your foot, as the various brands are shaped differently and what fits my feet killer might be a killer on your feet.
To me the most important thing for an all day long route shoe is that it is sized so that it is comfortable to wear all day long.
I honestly think sometimes we aspose too much importance to specialized shoes. Sometimes the specialized shoes will help on a specific climb and make them a partial grade easier, but not always.
Find the shoes that fit your feet the best, size them so you can fit a thing liner pair of socks inside of them and enjoy having a comfortable pair of shoes.
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stymingersfink
Feb 26, 2008, 1:46 AM
Post #27 of 71
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gbclimber wrote: I'm getting more into trad climbing and my gym shoes are way too uncomfortable for an all day thing. Any suggestions?
avoid anything which might get you stuck with the label "trad-tard". it makes you look stoopid.
if you MUST climb outside, stick to the single-pitch bolted lines. It's almost just like the gym, but without the pretty colored tape. You can remedy this though... beg, borrow or steal a roll of your favorite color from the gym and take it to your first (and for all intents and purposes, your last) outdoor climb and apply colorful strips below all the holds.
it's a tradition to do this on your first outdoor climb. really.
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k.l.k
Feb 26, 2008, 1:54 AM
Post #28 of 71
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stymingersfink wrote: gbclimber wrote: I'm getting more into trad climbing and my gym shoes are way too uncomfortable for an all day thing. Any suggestions? stick to the plastic. Its a much better way to climb. avoid anything which might get you stuck with the label "trad-tard". it makes you look stoopid. if you MUST climb outside, stick to the single-pitch bolted lines. It's almost just like the gym, but without the pretty colored tape. You can remedy this though... beg, borrow or steal a roll of your favorite color from the gym and take it to your first (and for all intents and purposes, your last) outdoor climb and apply colorful strips below all the holds. it's a tradition to do this on your first outdoor climb. really.
I appreciate the effort, but according to his profile, he lives in Tahoe and has already climbed Bear's Choice so, unless he's an avatar, we're probably stuck with him. Cali public schools are notoriously bad, but there is an interstate leading from Tahoe directly to Utah, so he'll find your state soon enough. So I'd give him good advice, if only to lessen the chances of having to devise an impromptu rescue this summer. Besides, he's 17, a few seasons outdoors, and he'll be a rope gun.
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areyoumydude
Feb 26, 2008, 2:17 AM
Post #29 of 71
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My fave all day shoe is the Madrock Frenzy velcro.
Super comfy for multi pitch and they have a padded heel for hiking back to your pack.
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robdotcalm
Feb 26, 2008, 3:36 AM
Post #30 of 71
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I'm hesitant to write this since some of the people saying that cracks tear up shoelaces climb a lot harder than I do. On the other hand, I've been climbing gnarly cracks at J. Tree and Vedauwoo for over 3 decades and never had my shoe laces being ripped. There is some technique involved in setting the foot properly, weighting it, and not squiggling it about. Like a handjam the foot stays still once it's set.
r.c
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deltav
Feb 26, 2008, 4:20 AM
Post #31 of 71
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From Sportiva, the Mythos are excellent shoes. From 5.10, I just got a pair of Pitons and I love them.
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sspssp
Feb 26, 2008, 7:43 PM
Post #32 of 71
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petsfed wrote: sspssp wrote: I take issue that you can't get high performance in a shoe you can do the descent in. For multi-pitch climbing, I wear a pair of Mythos that are sized comfortably. I've done some pretty long Yosemite descents with the Mythos. Not saying it is the best way to go, but its doable. Its true though. A shoe that has a wide enough toe box and enough padding to allow good time on a grueling descent is not going to be that precise, sensitive or aggressive (if that's what you need). I would not dream of doing any of the scree-field descents that I've done, certainly not in the face of a coming storm, even in my Enduros. It would be shear suffering, and it'd slow me down. Climbing and walking require different things from shoes and trying to compromise between the two means that both will suffer, in my opinion, more than is allowable. Not to get into some kind of pissing match, but what were these long Yosemite descents like? I've never been to the Valley, so I don't know. What I do know is that if the descent is more than a mile or so, I'm bringing approach shoes. Blisters that prevent me from climbing the next day just aren't worth it.
The worst descent I've done in my Mythos is North Dome Gulley (after doing RA). It takes two or three hours if you know exactly where to go and much longer if you dont.
Long, loose, scree slopes are pretty ugly in any case and I wouldn't choose Mythos. NDG has some loose, treacherous spots, but no huge scree slopes.
With the Mythos, I can walk in them pretty good when they are unlaced, but lace them up tight and get a snug fit. The shoelace around the heel really helps to suck up the slack.
No worries about a pissing match and nothing is worth getting a blister and not being able to climb.
I'm more inclined to carry descent shoes now then I used to be and I pay attention to weight. The retro 5-tennie is under a pound. I don't expect a long life, but I use it very selectively.
cheers
(This post was edited by sspssp on Feb 26, 2008, 7:46 PM)
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tolman_paul
Feb 26, 2008, 10:31 PM
Post #33 of 71
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Anything longer than a pitch and at a minimum I take my teva's for the decent.
Yes I have come down from multipitch routes in rock shoes, but it sucks.
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caughtinside
Feb 27, 2008, 7:34 AM
Post #34 of 71
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I have pretty much given up wearing any kind of rock shoe for a descent longer than 5 minutes. Descents are downhill, and pretty much just hammer my big toes. If the shoes are loose enough to be comfy doing this, they probably slide around and are shitty climbing shoes.
for a longish descent, first choice is chacos. 2nd choice is shoes. If it's a descent I know, sometimes I'll barefoot it. I barefooted at sugarloaf a week ago, wasn't too bad, even with 200 feet of snow to cross. brr!
No such thing as the perfect trad shoe, or at least I havent' found it. Mythos is a fine crack shoe and decent all arounder, but the edging is just too poor to call it the best.
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basilisk
Feb 27, 2008, 1:57 PM
Post #35 of 71
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Sportiva Focuses are my favorite shoes. Good luck finding them though
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microbarn
Feb 27, 2008, 2:46 PM
Post #36 of 71
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krusher4 wrote: I like Ballet Golds and Trad masters
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tolman_paul
Feb 27, 2008, 6:50 PM
Post #37 of 71
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The best edging shoes aren't the best all around shoes. I have some old asolo's and nearly as old scarpas thaat are great all around shoes. Looking at whats available today, there are very few all around climbing shoes, most are face and gym shoes.
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sspssp
Feb 28, 2008, 12:37 AM
Post #38 of 71
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tolman_paul wrote: Yes I have come down from multipitch routes in rock shoes, but it sucks.
Well, yeah. But carrying descent shoes up the route is also a nuisance.
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sspssp
Feb 28, 2008, 12:39 AM
Post #39 of 71
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caughtinside wrote: I have pretty much given up wearing any kind of rock shoe for a descent longer than 5 minutes. Descents are downhill, and pretty much just hammer my big toes. If the shoes are loose enough to be comfy doing this, they probably slide around and are shitty climbing shoes. No such thing as the perfect trad shoe, or at least I havent' found it. Mythos is a fine crack shoe and decent all arounder, but the edging is just too poor to call it the best.
Right, but you can create (or suck up) a fair bit of room with the Mythos by loosening/tightening the lace around the heel and for long multi-pitch. I'm not usually climbing right at my limit where I need a sport shoe fit.
The Mythos edge pretty good when new, but it does go downhill. I'm willing to give up some edging for the ability to smear and smudge (half smear/half edge).
Each to their own.
Mostly it just a question that I haven't found a better performing shoe that fits my weird/narrow foot.
(This post was edited by sspssp on Feb 28, 2008, 12:42 AM)
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petsfed
Feb 28, 2008, 1:22 AM
Post #40 of 71
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sspssp wrote: tolman_paul wrote: Yes I have come down from multipitch routes in rock shoes, but it sucks. Well, yeah. But carrying descent shoes up the route is also a nuisance.
My argument was only in regards to those routes that you'd carry a pack on. Which is basically only those routes that are long enough that the descent justifies carrying descent shoes.
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no_email_entered
Feb 28, 2008, 2:05 AM
Post #41 of 71
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how come you all cant answer the OP's question????
he dont want no debate, just one answer1!!11!!!
WHAT ARE THE BEEST TRAD SHOOZ?!!?/1!1
is it really that hard?
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caughtinside
Feb 28, 2008, 4:28 AM
Post #42 of 71
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sspssp wrote: caughtinside wrote: I have pretty much given up wearing any kind of rock shoe for a descent longer than 5 minutes. Descents are downhill, and pretty much just hammer my big toes. If the shoes are loose enough to be comfy doing this, they probably slide around and are shitty climbing shoes. No such thing as the perfect trad shoe, or at least I havent' found it. Mythos is a fine crack shoe and decent all arounder, but the edging is just too poor to call it the best. Right, but you can create (or suck up) a fair bit of room with the Mythos by loosening/tightening the lace around the heel and for long multi-pitch. I'm not usually climbing right at my limit where I need a sport shoe fit. The Mythos edge pretty good when new, but it does go downhill. I'm willing to give up some edging for the ability to smear and smudge (half smear/half edge). Each to their own. Mostly it just a question that I haven't found a better performing shoe that fits my weird/narrow foot.
Yeah, I never feel that great smudging. Feels much less secure for me.
Anyway, the katanas are my favorite trad shoe, they jam fine and edge great. Only the velcro gets trashed. I meant to look into the barracudas, the lace up version of the katanas, but never quite got around to it...
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caliclimbergrl
Feb 28, 2008, 8:45 AM
Post #43 of 71
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"Mostly it just a question that I haven't found a better performing shoe that fits my weird/narrow foot."
I second that!! You would think having really narrow feet would be great for climbing shoes as much as people complain about shoes being too tight! But there is no other shoe out there that fits my narrow feet like mythos!! I'm still on the lookout for a good slipper as finger cracks are my favorite thing to climb. But for now, I'll stick with my mythos. I have 2 pairs so when one pair needs to be re-soled, I always have a back-up. :)
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k.l.k
Feb 28, 2008, 4:11 PM
Post #44 of 71
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Have you tried the Acopa Aurora? Not a slipper, and God knows they won't fit my feet, but one of the better looking narrow last shoes I've seen recently. Scarpas traditionally tended toward the narrowest lasts, although since Mariacher arrived, things may have changed.
One of the reasons that Mythos has been so successful is that it accommodations such a wide range of feet-- even that wraparound lace heel, that most folks never use, will actually help to suck up extra volume out of the back and mid-foot. Good design for a very un-designy shoe.
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krusher4
Feb 28, 2008, 5:14 PM
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microbarn wrote: krusher4 wrote: I like Ballet Golds and Trad masters I hated the trad masters after I used them for a while. They were basically insulated, and it felt like I was climbing with pools of sweat on my feet.
Ohh that's right they do get way too warm!! Forgot about that since I've been climbing in the cold all winter.
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caliclimbergrl
Feb 28, 2008, 5:54 PM
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Thanks for the recommendation I've actually never even heard of the Acopa Aurora, but I just googled it and it looks like exactly what I'm looking for. I decided long ago that the only shoes that will really fit me are shoes made specifically for women. My only concern is that the toe may not be thin enough to fit into those thin cracks which is what I really want the shoe for. But it looks like a nice soft flat "sport" shoe, and I like the velcro because that means i can cinch it up a bit if it isn't narrow enough. Looks perfect, I'm going to try a pair! Thanks!
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jsrj98
Feb 29, 2008, 5:46 AM
Post #47 of 71
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The great thing about the Mythos is that you can really control the fit and feel with the lacing system. I haven't done any Yosemite-type descents in them, but I could see that. Of course the laces can break, so you just have to accept that.
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evanwish
Feb 29, 2008, 3:03 PM
Post #48 of 71
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I've used the La Sportiva Tradmasters and the 5.10 Piton's and the 5.10 Coyotes
I liked them all, but the 5.10 Pitons are incredible.
on any size crack, tips to offwidth they are AMAZING
on the hand cracks the extra rubber over the toes locks you in soo securely you could practically stand in the crack all day.
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greatgarbanzo
Feb 29, 2008, 6:14 PM
Post #49 of 71
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Evolv Bandit for all day comfort. Evolv Agro for the ultra technical overhanging stuff.
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acorneau
Feb 29, 2008, 8:21 PM
Post #50 of 71
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evanwish wrote: I liked them all, but the 5.10 Pitons are incredible. on any size crack, tips to offwidth they are AMAZING on the hand cracks the extra rubber over the toes locks you in soo securely you could practically stand in the crack all day.
Does the toe box run really narrow? I have wide/short feet and have a hard time finding good shoes that don't KILL my pinky and big toes.
Thanks.
(This post was edited by acorneau on Feb 29, 2008, 9:10 PM)
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