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fresh
Nov 20, 2008, 4:43 PM
Post #26 of 33
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Registered: Aug 7, 2007
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jrathfon wrote: saw you're from CT, im outside of Amherst, MA. i think huntington's might be good as early as this weekend! definitely next (thanksgiving)! stoked.
http://www.mountwashington.org/weather/f6/2008/11.pdf
I was up there last weekend and water was running everywhere. it's gonna be amazing. (as long as you don't mind negative 30-50F wind chills)
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jrathfon
Nov 20, 2008, 4:49 PM
Post #27 of 33
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Registered: Jun 5, 2006
Posts: 494
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fresh wrote: (as long as you don't mind negative 30-50F wind chills)
You mean lovely New England Fall weather? Love IT!
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jgivens
Nov 20, 2008, 4:53 PM
Post #28 of 33
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Registered: May 10, 2006
Posts: 89
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"p.s. if i wanted to grab say 5 pitons for winter alpine stuff/in the extremely odd chance i need one or two on say an A3 cannon route, what should i grab. and i don't mean 2 LA's, 2 KB's, 2 angles, etc. i mean what specific sizes are good, cause there are like 7 of each, and i don't have a feel for the numbers versus the actual size."
Bugaboos, small like #5, BD Angle #2. Bugs always seem to be useful because they fit in the tiny cracks and are light. I like the stubbier ones because they always fit and there is less chance of bottoming out, esp. if the rear of the crack is packed with ice. Oh, and I've never had a problem nailing with the micro-hammer on my Reactors, but obviously it's less efficient than a big one.
(This post was edited by jgivens on Nov 20, 2008, 4:54 PM)
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the_climber
Nov 20, 2008, 5:07 PM
Post #29 of 33
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Registered: Oct 9, 2003
Posts: 6142
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jrathfon wrote: p.s. if i wanted to grab say 5 pitons for winter alpine stuff/in the extremely odd chance i need one or two on say an A3 cannon route, what should i grab. and i don't mean 2 LA's, 2 KB's, 2 angles, etc. i mean what specific sizes are good, cause there are like 7 of each, and i don't have a feel for the numbers versus the actual size. follow up, and i'm sure it's in another thread, but when is each type best, i.e. LA's horizontals?, etc. thanks!
Man, it all depends on the rock you're using them in, and the nature of the crack. I've never climbed at cannon so I can't say for sure.
Around the Canadian Rockies, the selection I "use" most often is #2 and #3 KB's, the Smallest 3 Angles, Medium to short lenght Stubia Soft pins, and various LA's. On the LA's I find the narrower thin to medium thickness ones are what I use most around here, the catch is that a lot of the placement around here aren't too deep. I tend to cut and/or file down a lot of my pins. A pointed end works better for starting in Limestone/ sandstone/quartzite the chissle (blunt) end works great for Granite, but isn't my favourate for "my" local rock. I would say the most used pins in my collection of pins are the #3 KB, the Midium length soft Stubia, and the #1 + #2 Angles.
Like I said though, if you want to know exactly which sizes of what type it really all depends on the rock you're using them in.
(This post was edited by the_climber on Nov 20, 2008, 5:09 PM)
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the_climber
Nov 20, 2008, 5:09 PM
Post #30 of 33
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Registered: Oct 9, 2003
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jgivens wrote: Bugaboos, small like #5, BD Angle #2. Bugs always seem to be useful because they fit in the tiny cracks and are light. I like the stubbier ones because they always fit and there is less chance of bottoming out, esp. if the rear of the crack is packed with ice. Oh, and I've never had a problem nailing with the micro-hammer on my Reactors, but obviously it's less efficient than a big one.
#5 KB is pretty thick, #2, #3 are more usefull in most rock types. Rarely have I needed a long KB.
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brent_e
Nov 24, 2008, 9:57 PM
Post #31 of 33
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Registered: Dec 15, 2004
Posts: 5111
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dr_feelgood wrote: gothcopter wrote: dr_feelgood wrote: Yup. All in the name of science. For your next experiment, have a couple more beers and see how the Link Cam fares in the microwave! Maybe the next experiment will be how my #5 camalot fares in your rectum. Fuck off and die.
I <3 doc
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creemore
Nov 30, 2008, 7:50 PM
Post #32 of 33
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Registered: Jan 22, 2003
Posts: 61
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All the above stuff is great about pins and all, but regarding your original post, I use Link Cams in the Rockies quite a bit summer and winter.
I do use a cold weather Mtn. bike lube for all my cams and it keeps em smooth.
If your worried about them freezing up like a popsicle, you probably got other stuff to worry about then anyways. The mains issue for winter cam use is your friction/contact with the rock. Link cams work well in funky alpine slots too.
Use em I say!
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zeke_sf
Nov 30, 2008, 8:02 PM
Post #33 of 33
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Registered: Apr 28, 2006
Posts: 18730
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dr_feelgood wrote: gothcopter wrote: dr_feelgood wrote: Yup. All in the name of science. For your next experiment, have a couple more beers and see how the Link Cam fares in the microwave! Maybe the next experiment will be how my #5 camalot fares in your rectum. Fuck off and die.
Tip it out!
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