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camhead
May 15, 2015, 7:24 PM
Post #104876 of 105309
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PTFTW trip rapport!
Took a trip to NY earlier this weak. Didn't climb in the Gunkz because it was kind of hot, didn't find partners (since GO didn't want to bail on work with 12 hrs notice), and it was limited time anyway. Got a really good gym sesh in though (fap. fap fap. FAPFAPFAPFAPFAPFAP)
Got back to Dubbya Vee on Wednesday realizing that I'd missed a REALLY good day of climbing; rH of less than 20%, highs in the upper sixties. Was pretty bummed.
Then yesterday, I decided to skip out on werk and go to the ultra sekrit radness carg with Pat, since it was another day of only slightly worse conditions. Wasn't super psyched on anything, since I've been feeling pretty exhausted, backhurtz from the long drive, and the pollen has had me kawfing and wheezing. But he needed a belay erie guardless.
Anyhoo, we warmed up, then Pat got right on this 13a tips crack that I was spraying about earlier. Fired it for the FA redsite, super smoothly. Psych got high. I admitted that this route called "New Traditionalist" was right down the way, and said I might get on it.
I'd not been on this route since Dribble led it probaby 4 years ago. I TR'd it, did not tredpoint, and just remembered it being REALLY hard for the one two bee. Actually, there was a slideshow by an NRG oldskooler a few years back in which he had a pic of the climb with the caption (12c/d).
But for some reason, I read it super well as I lead it hit every lock perfectly, and even managed to stick the weird bottoming out flared ringlock crux! Got the send for either a second go, or a Manderson-style VOS, since I didn't remember much of it from years ago. Was so psyched that I even did a victory TR lap. The thing is without a doubt the best fingercarck of its grade at the NRG. Super good.
Ok, that's all. Gonna stop spraying since it's river season coming up, and I'm going to quit climbing.
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lena_chita
Moderator
May 15, 2015, 7:54 PM
Post #104877 of 105309
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camhead wrote: PTFTW trip rapport! Took a trip to NY earlier this weak. Didn't climb in the Gunkz because it was kind of hot, didn't find partners (since GO didn't want to bail on work with 12 hrs notice), and it was limited time anyway. Got a really good gym sesh in though (fap. fap fap. FAPFAPFAPFAPFAPFAP) Got back to Dubbya Vee on Wednesday realizing that I'd missed a REALLY good day of climbing; rH of less than 20%, highs in the upper sixties. Was pretty bummed. Then yesterday, I decided to skip out on werk and go to the ultra sekrit radness carg with Pat, since it was another day of only slightly worse conditions. Wasn't super psyched on anything, since I've been feeling pretty exhausted, backhurtz from the long drive, and the pollen has had me kawfing and wheezing. But he needed a belay erie guardless. Anyhoo, we warmed up, then Pat got right on this 13a tips crack that I was spraying about earlier. Fired it for the FA redsite, super smoothly. Psych got high. I admitted that this route called "New Traditionalist" was right down the way, and said I might get on it. I'd not been on this route since Dribble led it probaby 4 years ago. I TR'd it, did not tredpoint, and just remembered it being REALLY hard for the one two bee. Actually, there was a slideshow by an NRG oldskooler a few years back in which he had a pic of the climb with the caption (12c/d). But for some reason, I read it super well as I lead it hit every lock perfectly, and even managed to stick the weird bottoming out flared ringlock crux! Got the send for either a second go, or a Manderson-style VOS, since I didn't remember much of it from years ago. Was so psyched that I even did a victory TR lap. The thing is without a doubt the best fingercarck of its grade at the NRG. Super good. Ok, that's all. Gonna stop spraying since it's river season coming up, and I'm going to quit climbing.
Quit climbing, get fat... yup.
I was telling Banz the other day how awesome it was that Ed's a great cook, and his first response was, man, you gonna get fat!
Diz finger is driving me nuts. I think it is healing, becuase I haz to really dig in and press on the base of the finger to feel any pain. But then I go to teh gym, and it hurts. And it's weak. As in, on some holds the finger just opens up, no matter what I do.
It is not a lasting soreness, the next day it is not hurting anymore. But I dunno if this means I should try and work up to climbing regularly, as long as the soreness goes away the next day, or if it means that I should not climb for a while yet.
So far, I had rested it for 5 weeks, climbed for the weekend, rested it for 10 days, climbed at the gym...
Jugs hurt more than crimps, crimps don't hurt, except when I can't crimp at all bc the finger just doesn't stay bent.
UGH!
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cracklover
May 18, 2015, 2:06 PM
Post #104878 of 105309
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Registered: Nov 14, 2002
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Sorry man. I'm actually way psyched on the Gunks right now. Just can't ditch on work with that kind of notice.
Nice jorb on the RP!
I had a day at the Gunks this weekend. Was way hot and sticky, but I don't mind the poor conditions - just makes it better training for sending hard shit in the fall. I'm definitely starting to dial in on the climbing and gear again. Everything I did felt pretty easy, with the exception that I sometime took way too long to find the right piece. But that was mostly toward the end of the day, when I was tired. And I blame that on getting nowhere near enough sleep the night before.
GO
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caughtinside
May 18, 2015, 3:49 PM
Post #104879 of 105309
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camhead wrote: snoopy138 wrote: caughtinside wrote: carabiner96 wrote: camhead wrote: carabiner96 wrote: Send my local project, it only took two days so in thinking I need to A) step up my game and B) clear creek grades are soft. So, like See Eye, you need to give us some sort of hint as to what this porject is! Seriously (and this is not just limited to the B_ET), it is kind of silly how this whole culture of "not spraying" in climbing has somehow come to mean "intentionally go out of your way to obfuscate what climb you're psyched on and/or just sent." When we say that there is a climb we're obsessed with at the moment, obviously everyone wants to know what it is. I think it's rad that See Eye is working on a new climb that, from the looks of it, is probably the hardest thing he's thrown himself at. I think it's rad that Mo is getting solid on the one-ones. And they're not being any humbler or modest by just posting a video or intentionally not saying what the climb is; they're just sending the rest of us on a scavenger hunt to find what it is. But what do I know; I'm a known sprayer. Nice rant, but I thought in these walls we only give each other shit? If you want the touchy feeley ball feely junk, go talk to momma. Like, in the real world I'm thinking 'wow! Good for see eye! I had no idea he was working one threes!' But in here...we are g3rkz for a reason. It's all fake. I work .11c in the gym. Are you calling Auburn Quarry soft? [FA name left out in case he vanity searches like teh smvrf] Who, Tim Jornberg?
Ha, I can never tell. When auburn reopened the hordes descended and called all the old routes soft.
I really have no clue about grades though. Especially the gym. Getting a one two indoors is pretty rare for me. The style is generally endure fitness low tech. I don't fully rest between tries though and only try once or twice.
Got on the project Saturday and made some good progress. Could go any try... If I get to try. Have to go to a weeding this weekend and then it might be too hot and out of condition. Improved my beta on two sections where I was falling a lot, and now I do a pimp azz Dyno.
Took a weird fall that sliced off the tip of my thumb, and banged my chin on something, got s nice big bruise. Not sure how I did that on an overhang, I was sucked in tight and my toe popped.
Oh and ewe guise are rong, the ange draws are super bitchin.
Oh yes, very sad about Dean. MOS 2&3 were some of the first things I saw when I started climbing and still motivate me.
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snoopy138
May 18, 2015, 4:52 PM
Post #104880 of 105309
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Registered: Jul 7, 2004
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caughtinside wrote: camhead wrote: snoopy138 wrote: caughtinside wrote: carabiner96 wrote: camhead wrote: carabiner96 wrote: Send my local project, it only took two days so in thinking I need to A) step up my game and B) clear creek grades are soft. So, like See Eye, you need to give us some sort of hint as to what this porject is! Seriously (and this is not just limited to the B_ET), it is kind of silly how this whole culture of "not spraying" in climbing has somehow come to mean "intentionally go out of your way to obfuscate what climb you're psyched on and/or just sent." When we say that there is a climb we're obsessed with at the moment, obviously everyone wants to know what it is. I think it's rad that See Eye is working on a new climb that, from the looks of it, is probably the hardest thing he's thrown himself at. I think it's rad that Mo is getting solid on the one-ones. And they're not being any humbler or modest by just posting a video or intentionally not saying what the climb is; they're just sending the rest of us on a scavenger hunt to find what it is. But what do I know; I'm a known sprayer. Nice rant, but I thought in these walls we only give each other shit? If you want the touchy feeley ball feely junk, go talk to momma. Like, in the real world I'm thinking 'wow! Good for see eye! I had no idea he was working one threes!' But in here...we are g3rkz for a reason. It's all fake. I work .11c in the gym. Are you calling Auburn Quarry soft? [FA name left out in case he vanity searches like teh smvrf] Who, Tim Jornberg? Ha, I can never tell. When auburn reopened the hordes descended and called all the old routes soft. I really have no clue about grades though. Especially the gym. Getting a one two indoors is pretty rare for me. The style is generally endure fitness low tech. I don't fully rest between tries though and only try once or twice. Got on the project Saturday and made some good progress. Could go any try... If I get to try. Have to go to a weeding this weekend and then it might be too hot and out of condition. Improved my beta on two sections where I was falling a lot, and now I do a pimp azz Dyno. Took a weird fall that sliced off the tip of my thumb, and banged my chin on something, got s nice big bruise. Not sure how I did that on an overhang, I was sucked in tight and my toe popped. Oh and ewe guise are rong, the ange draws are super bitchin. Oh yes, very sad about Dean. MOS 2&3 were some of the first things I saw when I started climbing and still motivate me.
The ange draws fucking suck. Who wuntz a draw that ewe can't grab?
Zent the Meager & Weak proj on Saturday. It involved a lot of cheating myself at the post-curx rest.
Figured I'd get on something harder, so for the last run of the day I got on State of Grace, since it has fixied draws. Unfortunately, I gave myself some sour betas, it's a couple grades harder than I thought (having looked on MP afterwards). Could do most of the moves through the bottom, though, but got to an undercling that seemed very difficult and hurt my wrist. Called it after that.
Will have to start working Buried Treasure next time I'm out there, I think.
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carabiner96
May 19, 2015, 3:52 PM
Post #104881 of 105309
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Registered: Apr 10, 2006
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Weekend! Did a half day in clear creek, got stormed off around noon. Tried again Sunday in BoCan, went to a new to me crag and it was a total junk show. Bodies everywhere, rocks falling - the climbs themselves were great but ... Ugh.
It needs to stop raining in Utah, I NEED this creek trip.
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granite_grrl
May 20, 2015, 5:11 PM
Post #104882 of 105309
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Registered: Oct 25, 2002
Posts: 15084
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caughtinside wrote: carabiner96 wrote: camhead wrote: carabiner96 wrote: Send my local project, it only took two days so in thinking I need to A) step up my game and B) clear creek grades are soft. So, like See Eye, you need to give us some sort of hint as to what this porject is! Seriously (and this is not just limited to the B_ET), it is kind of silly how this whole culture of "not spraying" in climbing has somehow come to mean "intentionally go out of your way to obfuscate what climb you're psyched on and/or just sent." When we say that there is a climb we're obsessed with at the moment, obviously everyone wants to know what it is. I think it's rad that See Eye is working on a new climb that, from the looks of it, is probably the hardest thing he's thrown himself at. I think it's rad that Mo is getting solid on the one-ones. And they're not being any humbler or modest by just posting a video or intentionally not saying what the climb is; they're just sending the rest of us on a scavenger hunt to find what it is. But what do I know; I'm a known sprayer. Nice rant, but I thought in these walls we only give each other shit? If you want the touchy feeley ball feely junk, go talk to momma. Like, in the real world I'm thinking 'wow! Good for see eye! I had no idea he was working one threes!' But in here...we are g3rkz for a reason. It's all fake. I work .11c in the gym.
We all know that climbing in a gym is hard. For rock masters only!!!
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granite_grrl
May 21, 2015, 11:56 AM
Post #104883 of 105309
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Registered: Oct 25, 2002
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Spent last week in Pittsburgh looking at some robot fork lifts. Very cool technology, but almost pointless for me to be there. Everything is proprietary and locked down on the programming side, so all I'll be doing is calling the OEM just like anyone else.
So I got home on Thursday and did a bit of work from home on Friday instead of going in. We also did one more long visit at Ford and MB pricing out vans.
Saturday was lame, we got mulch and fretted over van choices.
Sunday we finally climbed. Both Nathan and I are out of shape so we just went to the closest sport crag and tried to bang out a bunch of laps. We were trying to keep ahead of the gang bang climbing groups and I probably got on routes a little harder than I should have for this exercise, I was pretty pouched after 6 climbs. Nathan also bootied a link cam from a route beside our warmup. I have no desire to own link cams, but it’s a pretty sweet piece of booty.
Monday (Victoria Day weekend here) we went to the train bridge and did some ARCing. It was pretty hard for me.
So yeah, after the whole Ice Climbing World Cup thing, I just let myself get out of shape. But I do think that I’m quite a bit stronger than before, I just can’t hold on for very long!
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snoopy138
May 21, 2015, 4:51 PM
Post #104884 of 105309
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granite_grrl wrote: we just went to the closest sport crag ... Nathan also bootied a link cam from a route beside our warmup
???
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camhead
May 21, 2015, 9:51 PM
Post #104885 of 105309
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snoopy138 wrote: granite_grrl wrote: we just went to the closest sport crag ... Nathan also bootied a link cam from a route beside our warmup ???
Yeah, saw that on fb. I'd be psyched to booty a linkcam. Would never buy one, though.
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caughtinside
May 22, 2015, 3:02 PM
Post #104886 of 105309
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camhead wrote: snoopy138 wrote: granite_grrl wrote: we just went to the closest sport crag ... Nathan also bootied a link cam from a route beside our warmup ??? Yeah, saw that on fb. I'd be psyched to booty a linkcam. Would never buy one, though.
Sold my 3 years ago. I thought I'd keep them for weird stuff but after the broken one I just couldn't climb above them without thinking about it. Even at the creek.
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snoopy138
May 22, 2015, 6:03 PM
Post #104887 of 105309
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camhead wrote: snoopy138 wrote: granite_grrl wrote: we just went to the closest sport crag ... Nathan also bootied a link cam from a route beside our warmup ??? Yeah, saw that on fb. I'd be psyched to booty a linkcam. Would never buy one, though.
my question was more along the lines of what was the link cam doing at a sports carg?
also, link cam in ontarian slimestone ... sounds like there funeral.
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granite_grrl
May 22, 2015, 6:22 PM
Post #104888 of 105309
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snoopy138 wrote: camhead wrote: snoopy138 wrote: granite_grrl wrote: we just went to the closest sport crag ... Nathan also bootied a link cam from a route beside our warmup ??? Yeah, saw that on fb. I'd be psyched to booty a linkcam. Would never buy one, though. my question was more along the lines of what was the link cam doing at a sports carg? also, link cam in ontarian slimestone ... sounds like there funeral.
There are a few walls of sport climbing at this crag, but it's mostly a trad crag.
And I agree that link cams are a terrible idea in this rock. If you're going to place cams in limestone you find pods and constrictions, exactly where you shouldn't place link cams.
Nathan is all excited because he thinks with a pair of link cams he's going to lead solo Devils Tower, leap frogging them along, placing the odd piece here and there in case of failure. 
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lena_chita
Moderator
May 22, 2015, 6:47 PM
Post #104889 of 105309
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camhead wrote: snoopy138 wrote: granite_grrl wrote: we just went to the closest sport crag ... Nathan also bootied a link cam from a route beside our warmup ??? Yeah, saw that on fb. I'd be psyched to booty a linkcam. Would never buy one, though.
Elitist! or maybe traditionalist! But either way, some kind of effing -ist. 
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snoopy138
May 26, 2015, 12:14 AM
Post #104890 of 105309
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granite_grrl wrote: snoopy138 wrote: camhead wrote: snoopy138 wrote: granite_grrl wrote: we just went to the closest sport crag ... Nathan also bootied a link cam from a route beside our warmup ??? Yeah, saw that on fb. I'd be psyched to booty a linkcam. Would never buy one, though. my question was more along the lines of what was the link cam doing at a sports carg? also, link cam in ontarian slimestone ... sounds like there funeral. There are a few walls of sport climbing at this crag, but it's mostly a trad crag. And I agree that link cams are a terrible idea in this rock. If you're going to place cams in limestone you find pods and constrictions, exactly where you shouldn't place link cams. Nathan is all excited because he thinks with a pair of link cams he's going to lead solo Devils Tower, leap frogging them along, placing the odd piece here and there in case of failure.
what could go rong?
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lena_chita
Moderator
May 26, 2015, 3:54 PM
Post #104891 of 105309
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snoopy138 wrote: granite_grrl wrote: snoopy138 wrote: camhead wrote: snoopy138 wrote: granite_grrl wrote: we just went to the closest sport crag ... Nathan also bootied a link cam from a route beside our warmup ??? Yeah, saw that on fb. I'd be psyched to booty a linkcam. Would never buy one, though. my question was more along the lines of what was the link cam doing at a sports carg? also, link cam in ontarian slimestone ... sounds like there funeral. There are a few walls of sport climbing at this crag, but it's mostly a trad crag. And I agree that link cams are a terrible idea in this rock. If you're going to place cams in limestone you find pods and constrictions, exactly where you shouldn't place link cams. Nathan is all excited because he thinks with a pair of link cams he's going to lead solo Devils Tower, leap frogging them along, placing the odd piece here and there in case of failure. what could go rong?
If they die, I claim the van.
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snoopy138
May 26, 2015, 7:15 PM
Post #104892 of 105309
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lena_chita wrote: snoopy138 wrote: granite_grrl wrote: snoopy138 wrote: camhead wrote: snoopy138 wrote: granite_grrl wrote: we just went to the closest sport crag ... Nathan also bootied a link cam from a route beside our warmup ??? Yeah, saw that on fb. I'd be psyched to booty a linkcam. Would never buy one, though. my question was more along the lines of what was the link cam doing at a sports carg? also, link cam in ontarian slimestone ... sounds like there funeral. There are a few walls of sport climbing at this crag, but it's mostly a trad crag. And I agree that link cams are a terrible idea in this rock. If you're going to place cams in limestone you find pods and constrictions, exactly where you shouldn't place link cams. Nathan is all excited because he thinks with a pair of link cams he's going to lead solo Devils Tower, leap frogging them along, placing the odd piece here and there in case of failure. what could go rong? If they die, I claim the van.
If he's soloing, I assume beccs will keep the van.
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carabiner96
May 26, 2015, 7:39 PM
Post #104893 of 105309
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Gah. May have lost two #1s this weekend. The rest of my party still needs to check there packs but what a cluster. My friend took them off my rack to go do a climb and brought them back while I was in another climb. Meanwhile it starts to rain so some folks grabbed all packs and gear and tossed in a cave. At the parking lot we thought about sorting gear but decided to do it in my garage, and she said 'yeah, I just have your two pieces.'
We get home and they're not in her pack. That's when she realized she had left them on top of my pack after she climbed. Well, they weren't in my pack, so here's hoping they got dumped in one of my buddies. Ugh.
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lena_chita
Moderator
May 26, 2015, 7:46 PM
Post #104894 of 105309
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snoopy138 wrote: lena_chita wrote: snoopy138 wrote: granite_grrl wrote: snoopy138 wrote: camhead wrote: snoopy138 wrote: granite_grrl wrote: we just went to the closest sport crag ... Nathan also bootied a link cam from a route beside our warmup ??? Yeah, saw that on fb. I'd be psyched to booty a linkcam. Would never buy one, though. my question was more along the lines of what was the link cam doing at a sports carg? also, link cam in ontarian slimestone ... sounds like there funeral. There are a few walls of sport climbing at this crag, but it's mostly a trad crag. And I agree that link cams are a terrible idea in this rock. If you're going to place cams in limestone you find pods and constrictions, exactly where you shouldn't place link cams. Nathan is all excited because he thinks with a pair of link cams he's going to lead solo Devils Tower, leap frogging them along, placing the odd piece here and there in case of failure. what could go rong? If they die, I claim the van. If he's soloing, I assume beccs will keep the van.
Unless she wants to go with him...
Going slightly into offtopic, Ed's friend witnessed someone trying to rappel at Bridge Buttress, at the New, going down from the top to the anchors, to set up toprope... But apparently the person was doing it on one stand of rope, while his girlfriend held the other end, through an ATC, unanchored, with her body weight. The rope was around a tree (not wrapped multiple times, just, you know, folded in half around the tree)
The girl didn't do too well as a counterweight, but the guy fortunately reached the anchors and went in direct before the girl got dragged around the tree.
Falls under category of "I can't even..."
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dr_feelgood
May 27, 2015, 5:36 AM
Post #104895 of 105309
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caughtinside wrote: Good luck at the creek doc. When Donny and I were there in May it was HOT. Good shade at 4x4.
This was the first creke trip that actually destroyed me to the point that I bailed a bit early. Granted, only 18 hours early, but whatevs.
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dr_feelgood
May 27, 2015, 5:43 AM
Post #104896 of 105309
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carabiner96 wrote: lena_chita wrote: I'm in awe of your spraying technique. I was thinking the exact same thing. I was about to commend him for keeping his trap shut, then I clicked on the link. Side note, I need to be grunting moar.
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dr_feelgood
May 27, 2015, 5:52 AM
Post #104897 of 105309
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carabiner96 wrote: Weehoo! He won't know until he's back in service but I'm crashing docs creek party!
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dr_feelgood
May 27, 2015, 6:00 AM
Post #104898 of 105309
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caughtinside wrote: camhead wrote: snoopy138 wrote: granite_grrl wrote: we just went to the closest sport crag ... Nathan also bootied a link cam from a route beside our warmup ??? Yeah, saw that on fb. I'd be psyched to booty a linkcam. Would never buy one, though. Sold my 3 years ago. I thought I'd keep them for weird stuff but after the broken one I just couldn't climb above them without thinking about it. Even at the creek.
Yup. Sold mine.
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dr_feelgood
May 27, 2015, 6:02 AM
Post #104899 of 105309
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Two week ground up. Mo got her cams back. All is right with the world.
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camhead
May 27, 2015, 10:16 AM
Post #104900 of 105309
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lena_chita wrote: snoopy138 wrote: lena_chita wrote: snoopy138 wrote: granite_grrl wrote: snoopy138 wrote: camhead wrote: snoopy138 wrote: granite_grrl wrote: we just went to the closest sport crag ... Nathan also bootied a link cam from a route beside our warmup ??? Yeah, saw that on fb. I'd be psyched to booty a linkcam. Would never buy one, though. my question was more along the lines of what was the link cam doing at a sports carg? also, link cam in ontarian slimestone ... sounds like there funeral. There are a few walls of sport climbing at this crag, but it's mostly a trad crag. And I agree that link cams are a terrible idea in this rock. If you're going to place cams in limestone you find pods and constrictions, exactly where you shouldn't place link cams. Nathan is all excited because he thinks with a pair of link cams he's going to lead solo Devils Tower, leap frogging them along, placing the odd piece here and there in case of failure. what could go rong? If they die, I claim the van. If he's soloing, I assume beccs will keep the van. Unless she wants to go with him... Going slightly into offtopic, Ed's friend witnessed someone trying to rappel at Bridge Buttress, at the New, going down from the top to the anchors, to set up toprope... But apparently the person was doing it on one stand of rope, while his girlfriend held the other end, through an ATC, unanchored, with her body weight. The rope was around a tree (not wrapped multiple times, just, you know, folded in half around the tree) The girl didn't do too well as a counterweight, but the guy fortunately reached the anchors and went in direct before the girl got dragged around the tree. Falls under category of "I can't even..."
I can confirm that this happened! I guide fiernd of mine witnessed it, and yelled at the guy.
This weakend was a shitshow, because of corse it was.
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