|
tradrenn
Dec 3, 2009, 2:22 AM
Post #76 of 90
(3723 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jan 16, 2005
Posts: 2990
|
cracklover wrote: tradrenn wrote: jonathan.gaillard wrote: I'm just wondering why john longs equalette didn't receive such "its useless" remarks when his book was published. This is faster and better performing. Not a lot faster though... I have been using Equalette for quite some time now and I can beet you and your anchor every time. Congrats for trying. Hmm... so the configuration you're using looks something like this?  Not sure how that's better. Beets have a lot of iron, right? So you're saying aluminum is weaker than iron? Please explain. GO
Are you Fucken kidding me with this shit ?
Please explain.
|
|
|
|
|
cracklover
Dec 3, 2009, 3:38 AM
Post #77 of 90
(3709 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 14, 2002
Posts: 10162
|
tradrenn wrote: Are you Fucken kidding me with this shit ?
Yes.
In reply to: Please explain.
Okay,
beet: 
beat: 
They are different words, with different meanings. You said you could beet his anchor.
Claro?
GO
|
|
|
|
|
tradrenn
Dec 3, 2009, 3:51 AM
Post #78 of 90
(3701 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jan 16, 2005
Posts: 2990
|
cracklover wrote: tradrenn wrote: Are you Fucken kidding me with this shit ? Yes. In reply to: Please explain. Okay, beet: [img]http://www.7dvt.com/files/food-beet.jpg[/img] beat: [img]http://www.abbeville.com/images-catalog/full-size/0789209039.interior01.jpg[/img] They are different words, with different meanings. You said you could beet his anchor. Claro? GO
Oh well, it's not like I'm ever going to get it right.
How many languages do you speak ?
(Out of curiosity)
|
|
|
|
|
cracklover
Dec 3, 2009, 3:39 PM
Post #79 of 90
(3678 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 14, 2002
Posts: 10162
|
I'm pretty lousy at French, Italian, and German, and reasonably coherent at English.
Why?
GO
|
|
|
|
|
drector
Dec 3, 2009, 7:12 PM
Post #81 of 90
(3660 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Aug 27, 2002
Posts: 1037
|
Cut or break the red loop in the upper right and it extends.
|
|
|
|
|
kennoyce
Dec 3, 2009, 7:37 PM
Post #82 of 90
(3652 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 6, 2001
Posts: 1338
|
You seem to have missed the legend on the side of the picture, the red loop is not a loop at all, but a crab. Everyone knows that a crab can not break, but I am surprised to se jonathan.giallard using any crabs at all in his anchor due to the fact that lobsters are even stronger and would add some redundancy to the anchor.
|
|
|
|
|
adatesman
Dec 3, 2009, 8:44 PM
Post #83 of 90
(3640 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jul 13, 2005
Posts: 3479
|
|
|
|
|
|
donald949
Dec 4, 2009, 12:09 AM
Post #84 of 90
(3612 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 24, 2007
Posts: 11455
|
Aric, since you have mad moderator skills, could you fix the title of this thread. May I be so bold as to suggest matching what I did here.
"completely insane anchor" as "completely serene anchor" is not even close to describing the anchor or this thread.
|
|
|
|
|
adatesman
Dec 4, 2009, 12:54 AM
Post #85 of 90
(3601 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jul 13, 2005
Posts: 3479
|
|
|
|
|
|
tradrenn
Dec 4, 2009, 1:09 AM
Post #87 of 90
(3587 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jan 16, 2005
Posts: 2990
|
Like I said, curiosity.
Honestly, I'm just looking for an excuse for not knowing how to spell.
Edit: What's your opinion about Equalette ?
(This post was edited by tradrenn on Dec 4, 2009, 1:27 AM)
|
|
|
|
|
sittingduck
Dec 4, 2009, 1:50 AM
Post #88 of 90
(3573 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Aug 19, 2003
Posts: 338
|
It is not a new way of rigging an anchor, Johnatan.
Although I'm sure this fine, 5.13 trad-climbing lady, will agree with you that it is a good anchor. Here she is cruising pitch 14 on Bloody Mary at 5.11+.
|
|
|
|
|
cracklover
Dec 4, 2009, 4:55 PM
Post #90 of 90
(3522 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 14, 2002
Posts: 10162
|
tradrenn wrote: Edit: What's your opinion about Equalette ?
I don't love the Equalette because it really only equalizes between two pieces. But I suppose it's okay for a scenario in which you can accept only a tiny amount of extension while needing excellent equalization between two pieces, and a backup third piece in the system. In real life, I doubt that it gives better load-sharing than a cordelette, if more than two pieces are involved.
By the way, if you read the test results in Largo's book carefully you'll note that the only true difference in test results between the crossed-sling and the two-piece equalette was due to the methodology of the testing. In other words, if you take a crossed sling with limiter knots on both sides, uncross the crossed side and put a wide-mouthed biner on both strands - you actually will get the lovely test results of the equalette.
All this business of adding clove hitches on the biners and whatnot - while it's the definition of an equalette - is not the cause of the nice test results. Rather, it's really just a way to integrate a third piece into a "crossed sling" method.
So, to be even more blunt, I've never used an equalette IRL. When I need to equalize three or more pieces with cord, 90% of the time I use the mooselette.
GO
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
