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Basta916
Apr 8, 2010, 2:03 PM
Post #26 of 34
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Registered: Jun 27, 2007
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everyones foot is different, what works for me could be a bad choice for other. Acopa Enzo is very comfy and great fit for me. I have three pairs of same shoe, and have to say that I have a definite favorite. One pair fits me better than others ( they are the same size, same model )
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sidepull
Apr 8, 2010, 2:24 PM
Post #27 of 34
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Registered: Sep 11, 2001
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Basta916 wrote: everyones foot is different, what works for me could be a bad choice for other. Acopa Enzo is very comfy and great fit for me. I have three pairs of same shoe, and have to say that I have a definite favorite. One pair fits me better than others ( they are the same size, same model )
I agree, everyone's foot is different. The issue that is getting more frustrating for me is that my foot really isn't that different from average. No morton's toe (which actually isn't that strange), no super high arch, medium width, not super huge (10.5-11). So it seems like there should be a lot of options. I'm wondering if the people that strongly advocating comfortable shoes are doing trad/aid stuff where they might not need to be so precise? Or maybe comfort really isn't that important? Or maybe everyone is lying?
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sidepull
Apr 8, 2010, 2:27 PM
Post #28 of 34
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Registered: Sep 11, 2001
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PS - I'd love to try on Acopa's but they aren't available in brick/mortar stores in MA and they aren't available on Zappos. 
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malcolm777b
Apr 8, 2010, 2:47 PM
Post #29 of 34
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Registered: Jun 9, 2009
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sidepull wrote: So let me summarize the thread up to this point - partly because I'm surprised by what seems to be a consensus here and partly in an effort to get the "you can find comfortable high performing shoes" people out of the woodwork. Here's what i'm hearing: It's hard, unlikely, perhaps even near impossible to find a comfortable shoe with a secure, non-sloppy, non-dead-space-filled heel. Am I misrepresenting the people above? Can people provide disconfirming examples?
Ummm...you got recommendations. I made the Scarpa Techno recommendation which is a comfortable shoe with a heel that pulls inward by the lacing system. It performs VERY well.
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Basta916
Apr 8, 2010, 2:49 PM
Post #30 of 34
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Registered: Jun 27, 2007
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If you decide to try Acopa's, here is couple warnings. Do NOT order size smaller. order same size as your street shoe ( even better measure your foot with , whatever they call that foot measure gadget).
Acopa rubber does not last in a gym, so be ready for the resole soon.
Unlined shoes like Enzo will turn your feet Red for a while..
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sidepull
Apr 8, 2010, 3:03 PM
Post #31 of 34
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Registered: Sep 11, 2001
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malcolm777b wrote: sidepull wrote: So let me summarize the thread up to this point - partly because I'm surprised by what seems to be a consensus here and partly in an effort to get the "you can find comfortable high performing shoes" people out of the woodwork. Here's what i'm hearing: It's hard, unlikely, perhaps even near impossible to find a comfortable shoe with a secure, non-sloppy, non-dead-space-filled heel. Am I misrepresenting the people above? Can people provide disconfirming examples? Ummm...you got recommendations. I made the Scarpa Techno recommendation which is a comfortable shoe with a heel that pulls inward by the lacing system. It performs VERY well.
I think the recommendations, so far have been the exception. That said, I've heard consistently bad things about scarpa rubber so I'm hesitant to really consider them.
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hafilax
Apr 8, 2010, 3:45 PM
Post #32 of 34
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Registered: Dec 12, 2007
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I like the Technos. They are my go-to crack and slab shoe. They aren't good for steep climbing or toeing in on holds. Cranking the laces gives a good heel hook but generally heel hooking is a steep climbing thing so they won't be great on the rest of the route. Of course YMMV.
The rubber is a tad on the hard side maybe but really the differences in rubber is splitting hairs IME. Is it ever really the difference between sending and not?
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jbro_135
Apr 8, 2010, 4:04 PM
Post #33 of 34
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Registered: Nov 15, 2009
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Unless you happen to have a foot that fits a particular model of shoe perfectly, there is always going to be a trade-off between comfort and performance. If you size small enough so that there is no dead space anywhere, chances are you are going to have pressure points. If you size for comfort, there is going to be dead space somewhere.
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ghisino
Apr 8, 2010, 4:18 PM
Post #34 of 34
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Registered: Sep 12, 2005
Posts: 249
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sidepull wrote: Here's what i'm hearing: It's hard, unlikely, perhaps even near impossible to find a comfortable shoe with a secure, non-sloppy, non-dead-space-filled heel. Am I misrepresenting the people above? Can people provide disconfirming examples?
it all depends on your comfort standards dude!!!
what is sure is that to get airtight heel you need to fit the shoe tight overall.
and that to be "secure" the heel it needs to be at least a bit tensioned, expecially if it is a slipper or a velcro. Your foot will be squeezed between the front and heel rand : until you grow calouses in the right spots it is uncomfortable, no way around it.
that said, if i try out several shoes in the smallest size i can fit them, some are very uncomfortable, others less, and that's a matter of matching foot and shoe shape.
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