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yanqui


Jun 7, 2010, 10:17 PM
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Re: [chadnsc] What a mess [In reply to]
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chadnsc wrote:
Yup, are you paying attention when you quote someone?

You can't have an accurate emotional response to some information if the said information is inaccurate or incorrect.

I mean say someone where to come on here and say you abuse your kid and then asked what emotional response we had about it. Later we learned that said incident was you placing your kid in a time out by having her/him stand in a corner for ten minutes.

Do you think the emotional response would be different?

Edit to remove yanqui's cheesed quoting.

I have no time for this ... please read the links and feel as you like. Nothing in any of my posts was in the form of a personal attack or factually incorrect. The guy who directed the "Red Bull" clean up operations has been a guest in my house and I helped push his car out of the mud after it got stuck when I was showing him some of my new bouldering areas. But I'm glad you came along to straighten us all out, being a local and an expert on the theme.


(This post was edited by yanqui on Jun 7, 2010, 10:22 PM)


chadnsc


Jun 7, 2010, 10:25 PM
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Re: [yanqui] What a mess [In reply to]
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In your OP you linked an article that said the ropes where still there with when in fact they had already been taken down.


You then went on to ask for an emotional response to both the bolts being added and the ropes being left on the wall.


You knowing and being friends with the man who directed the cleanup is irrelevant and that has nothing to do with your OP.


I never said that you attacked anyone.


yanqui


Jun 7, 2010, 10:32 PM
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Re: [chadnsc] What a mess [In reply to]
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chadnsc wrote:
In your OP you linked an article that said the ropes where still there with when in fact they had already been taken down.


You then went on to ask for an emotional response to both the bolts being added and the ropes being left on the wall.


You knowing and being friends with the man who directed the cleanup is irrelevant and that has nothing to do with your OP.


I never said that you attacked anyone.

I said: "The whole bunch went running back to Europe, leaving hundreds of meters of fixed ropes hanging on the wall and something like 60 new bolts on the lower half of the Compressor Route." This is factually accurate and the ropes where retrieved later by Graton et.al. after the "expedition" had left.

Edited to add later: I never posted any links, so I'm not sure what the hell you're talking about there.


(This post was edited by yanqui on Jun 7, 2010, 10:39 PM)


chadnsc


Jun 7, 2010, 10:46 PM
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Re: [yanqui] What a mess [In reply to]
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You did say that but you omitted that a crew paid by the sponsors came back and removed the ropes. This had been done before you posted the thread. While what you said isn't inaccurate it also isn't the truth. This type of truth telling is what you come to expect from a child, not an adult like yourself.


Moving on ;my point is that omitting that the ropes had been removed already affects the emotional response you asked for.

Sorry, I forgot that the second poster linked an article.


yanqui


Jun 7, 2010, 11:04 PM
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Re: [chadnsc] What a mess [In reply to]
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chadnsc wrote:
You did say that but you omitted that a crew paid by the sponsors came back and removed the ropes. This had been done before you posted the thread. While what you said isn't inaccurate it also isn't the truth. This type of truth telling is what you come to expect from a child, not an adult like yourself.


Moving on ;my point is that omitting that the ropes had been removed already affects the emotional response you asked for.

Sorry, I forgot that the second poster linked an article.

My first post starts with "apparently" (I still had not mentioned any names). Then please read my second post:

Apparently Rolo (Rolando Garibotti) wrote an opinion piece in this month's issue of "Desnivel" but I can't access it because the magazine does not have free access on internet. I received the gossip via facebook.

It seems to be true and if so, it's pretty screwed up.


Then a post by Rolo was referenced by someone else:

Somewhat unrelated to this thread, but the very route that Jim and Steve finished back in 79 just recently got a facelift, the bad kind. In spite of spending close to three months in Chalten, the much publicized free attempt on the Compressor route by David Lama had no positive results (two attempts to the bolt traverse). However it did have some negative results. Lama's film team fixed 700 meters of rope from the glacier to the bolt traverse. The ropes were left for months until three Argentine guides recovered them, although they had to abandon a haul bag full of them above the bergschrund. The worst of it all was that to place those 700 meters of rope the film team placed more than 60 bolts. This in an section of the climb where not even Maestri had placed a single bolt back in 71, and where natural protection abounds. Somehow the 450 bolts that are already on the route were not sufficient for Lama's film team crew.

In 1985 Fulvio Mariani made one of the best climbing movies of all time when he filmed “Cumbre”, documenting Marco Pedrini’s solo ascent of Cerro Torre. They did so fixing 3 ropes, and nothing more, without placing a single piece of fixed pro. Obviously, as Lama and his entourage prove, there has been a big regression since then.

One has to wonder what the Swiss or the French would say if the same was done in one of their most iconic peaks in the Alps by a team of foreigners.

cheers
rolo


This was the first time the facts became clear. If you think this was some intentional attempt by me to hide the facts, well then go ahead and believe that.


(This post was edited by yanqui on Jun 7, 2010, 11:22 PM)


Gmburns2000


Jun 7, 2010, 11:52 PM
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Re: [chadnsc] What a mess [In reply to]
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chadnsc wrote:
In your OP you linked an article that said the ropes where still there with when in fact they had already been taken down.

They were left on the wall...for months. It doesn't mean much that he posted after they were removed, the point remains that the film team behaved poorly by adding 60 bolts and leaving the ropes there for months. How are you getting a different interpretation of this?


Alpine07


Jun 8, 2010, 4:30 AM
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Re: [Gmburns2000] What a mess [In reply to]
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Gmburns2000 wrote:
chadnsc wrote:
In your OP you linked an article that said the ropes where still there with when in fact they had already been taken down.

They were left on the wall...for months. It doesn't mean much that he posted after they were removed, the point remains that the film team behaved poorly by adding 60 bolts and leaving the ropes there for months. How are you getting a different interpretation of this?

Chad has never really been "on top of things." He's like that guy that jumps into a conversation half way through. hahaha


chadnsc


Jun 8, 2010, 12:52 PM
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Re: [Gmburns2000] What a mess [In reply to]
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Gmburns2000 wrote:
chadnsc wrote:
In your OP you linked an article that said the ropes where still there with when in fact they had already been taken down.

They were left on the wall...for months. It doesn't mean much that he posted after they were removed, the point remains that the film team behaved poorly by adding 60 bolts and leaving the ropes there for months. How are you getting a different interpretation of this?

Oh I know the ropes where on the wall for months . . .

I'm not getting a different interpretation of the incident; I'm saying that Y asked for a response before knowing / revealing all the facts about what happened.

Y was outraged by what the climber and his sponsors did and wanted us to feel the same way. In doing so he overlooked information that affected the 'emotional response' he was asking us to make. Is it possible that Y simply didn't know about the fixed lines being taken down, sure? I will say this however, Y says he knows and is friends with the man who coordinated the recovery effort. Y also says he is connected to the area where the fixed lines where left.

With all of his connections to the area and it’s people I find it hard to believe that Y had no idea the fixed lines had been already removed. Users here who have no connection to the area and no friendship with the man that lead the removal of the fixed lines where able to quickly and easily learn that the fixed lines had already been removed.


chadnsc


Jun 8, 2010, 12:55 PM
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Re: [Alpine07] What a mess [In reply to]
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Alpine07 wrote:
Chad has never really been "on top of things." He's like that guy that jumps into a conversation half way through. hahaha

You mean like what you just did here in this thread?


yanqui


Jun 8, 2010, 1:35 PM
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Re: [chadnsc] What a mess [In reply to]
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chadnsc wrote:
Gmburns2000 wrote:
chadnsc wrote:
In your OP you linked an article that said the ropes where still there with when in fact they had already been taken down.

They were left on the wall...for months. It doesn't mean much that he posted after they were removed, the point remains that the film team behaved poorly by adding 60 bolts and leaving the ropes there for months. How are you getting a different interpretation of this?

Oh I know the ropes where on the wall for months . . .

I'm not getting a different interpretation of the incident; I'm saying that Y asked for a response before knowing / revealing all the facts about what happened.

Y was outraged by what the climber and his sponsors did and wanted us to feel the same way. In doing so he overlooked information that affected the 'emotional response' he was asking us to make. Is it possible that Y simply didn't know about the fixed lines being taken down, sure? I will say this however, Y says he knows and is friends with the man who coordinated the recovery effort. Y also says he is connected to the area where the fixed lines where left.

With all of his connections to the area and it’s people I find it hard to believe that Y had no idea the fixed lines had been already removed. Users here who have no connection to the area and no friendship with the man that lead the removal of the fixed lines where able to quickly and easily learn that the fixed lines had already been removed.

This is somewhat exhausting having to talk you through a thread which has existed for more than three weeks because you were too lazy to read it carefully, but here goes:
When I wrote the first post I mentioned no names, included the qualifier "apparently" and mentioned few details because everything I'd heard was based on internet gossip. I felt anger, but I was as interested as anyone in finding out more. If anything I had said had turned out to be false I would be more than happy to apologize publicly. By the time sba climber referenced Rolo's post a few hours later, the details were part of the thread and I felt no need to rewrite the first post. Are we clear on that?

But just in case other readers are as lazy as you are, I have now referenced the Alpinist thread in the first post.

Any other problems?


(This post was edited by yanqui on Jun 8, 2010, 2:48 PM)


Gmburns2000


Jun 8, 2010, 4:32 PM
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chadnsc wrote:
Gmburns2000 wrote:
chadnsc wrote:
In your OP you linked an article that said the ropes where still there with when in fact they had already been taken down.

They were left on the wall...for months. It doesn't mean much that he posted after they were removed, the point remains that the film team behaved poorly by adding 60 bolts and leaving the ropes there for months. How are you getting a different interpretation of this?

Oh I know the ropes where on the wall for months . . .

I'm not getting a different interpretation of the incident; I'm saying that Y asked for a response before knowing / revealing all the facts about what happened.

Y was outraged by what the climber and his sponsors did and wanted us to feel the same way. In doing so he overlooked information that affected the 'emotional response' he was asking us to make. Is it possible that Y simply didn't know about the fixed lines being taken down, sure? I will say this however, Y says he knows and is friends with the man who coordinated the recovery effort. Y also says he is connected to the area where the fixed lines where left.

With all of his connections to the area and it’s people I find it hard to believe that Y had no idea the fixed lines had been already removed. Users here who have no connection to the area and no friendship with the man that lead the removal of the fixed lines where able to quickly and easily learn that the fixed lines had already been removed.

I still think the fact that they were taken down is irrelevant to the point that they were left up for months and that new bolts were added. I would have had the same emotional response with or without knowing they had been taken down, unless of course it came to be known that the ropes were taken down after a few months due to incredibly difficult weather, or something like that, which doesn't seem to be the case.

The carelessness of the team's effort is the main point, not that they paid someone to take them down later or that they were taken down before Yanqui's post.


chadnsc


Jun 8, 2010, 4:33 PM
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Re: [Gmburns2000] What a mess [In reply to]
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Gmburns2000 wrote:
chadnsc wrote:
Gmburns2000 wrote:
chadnsc wrote:
In your OP you linked an article that said the ropes where still there with when in fact they had already been taken down.

They were left on the wall...for months. It doesn't mean much that he posted after they were removed, the point remains that the film team behaved poorly by adding 60 bolts and leaving the ropes there for months. How are you getting a different interpretation of this?

Oh I know the ropes where on the wall for months . . .

I'm not getting a different interpretation of the incident; I'm saying that Y asked for a response before knowing / revealing all the facts about what happened.

Y was outraged by what the climber and his sponsors did and wanted us to feel the same way. In doing so he overlooked information that affected the 'emotional response' he was asking us to make. Is it possible that Y simply didn't know about the fixed lines being taken down, sure? I will say this however, Y says he knows and is friends with the man who coordinated the recovery effort. Y also says he is connected to the area where the fixed lines where left.

With all of his connections to the area and it’s people I find it hard to believe that Y had no idea the fixed lines had been already removed. Users here who have no connection to the area and no friendship with the man that lead the removal of the fixed lines where able to quickly and easily learn that the fixed lines had already been removed.

I still think the fact that they were taken down is irrelevant to the point that they were left up for months and that new bolts were added. I would have had the same emotional response with or without knowing they had been taken down, unless of course it came to be known that the ropes were taken down after a few months due to incredibly difficult weather, or something like that, which doesn't seem to be the case.

The carelessness of the team's effort is the main point, not that they paid someone to take them down later or that they were taken down before Yanqui's post.

I guess we just differ on that viewpoint.


Alpine07


Jun 9, 2010, 2:08 AM
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chadnsc wrote:
Alpine07 wrote:
Chad has never really been "on top of things." He's like that guy that jumps into a conversation half way through. hahaha

You mean like what you just did here in this thread?

I thank you for proving my point.


chadnsc


Jun 9, 2010, 12:33 PM
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Alpine07 wrote:
chadnsc wrote:
Alpine07 wrote:
Chad has never really been "on top of things." He's like that guy that jumps into a conversation half way through. hahaha

You mean like what you just did here in this thread?

I thank you for proving my point.

You had a point?


Alpine07


Jun 9, 2010, 2:05 PM
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chadnsc wrote:
Alpine07 wrote:
chadnsc wrote:
Alpine07 wrote:
Chad has never really been "on top of things." He's like that guy that jumps into a conversation half way through. hahaha

You mean like what you just did here in this thread?

I thank you for proving my point.

You had a point?

Oh wow, are you still talking?


chadnsc


Jun 9, 2010, 2:07 PM
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Alpine07 wrote:
chadnsc wrote:
Alpine07 wrote:
chadnsc wrote:
Alpine07 wrote:
Chad has never really been "on top of things." He's like that guy that jumps into a conversation half way through. hahaha

You mean like what you just did here in this thread?

I thank you for proving my point.

You had a point?

Oh wow, are you still talking?

Why? You feeling lonely?


yanqui


Jun 9, 2010, 7:53 PM
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Hey Curt :

I guess I should thank you for the new sig ... Cool

Tim


i_h8_choss


Jun 9, 2010, 8:55 PM
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yanqui wrote:
Apparently one of these Red Bull sponsored climbers strutted off to Patagonia, complete with film crew, to free climb Cerro Torre. The weather was awful and the "expedition" was a dismal failure. The whole bunch went running back to Europe, leaving hundreds of meters of fixed ropes hanging on the wall and something like 60 new bolts on the lower half of the Compressor Route.

What the fuck?


Edited to add for clarity: This story was posted two weeks later:

Hi RC.com folks. We've posted a story about this situation at Alpinist.com:

http://www.alpinist.com/...ama-compressor-bolts

Erik Lambert
Online Editor, Alpinist.com


couple Q's for ya Tim.....

Who do you blame for this yanqui?

More specifically, who do you blame the 60 bolts on? And who do you blame the 700 m. of fixed rope on?
Please be specific.

Have you climbed Cerro Torre, the Compressor Route, or any other major peak in Los Glaciers?

Do you live in El Chalten?

just askin.


PosiDave


Jun 9, 2010, 9:10 PM
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I blame the guy who put up the first 450 bolts.

Sure 60 more were added and 700 meters of rope. But in all honesty. You were Insulting the climber probably on a contract with Red Bull. Who more than likely did not put the bolts up for the film crew. Also wasn't it said the film crew was hired by Red Bull? Not already part of the Red Bull company?

If so, more than likely Red Bull or the Climbers can not legally make the film crew remove the rope. So blame the film crew. Also there are plenty of other people that bail and leave gear all of the time (in smaller amounts) I do not see you complaining about everyone.

I don't to agree with adding bolts to climbs or leaving gear. In a perfect world we could all free solo are way and leave no trace. however, You are mad they added 60 bolts to a 450 bolt climb? To me it seems like there is a bit of contradiction in your statement.

You also bad mouthed Europe in your sentence structure. Could no South American or North American do such thing and run home?


I probably will not bother checking this thread again. But I am just pointing out that while I agree with you. Your statements give a meathead outlook on the whole thing.


yanqui


Jun 9, 2010, 10:01 PM
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i_h8_choss wrote:
yanqui wrote:
Apparently one of these Red Bull sponsored climbers strutted off to Patagonia, complete with film crew, to free climb Cerro Torre. The weather was awful and the "expedition" was a dismal failure. The whole bunch went running back to Europe, leaving hundreds of meters of fixed ropes hanging on the wall and something like 60 new bolts on the lower half of the Compressor Route.

What the fuck?


Edited to add for clarity: This story was posted two weeks later:

Hi RC.com folks. We've posted a story about this situation at Alpinist.com:

http://www.alpinist.com/...ama-compressor-bolts

Erik Lambert
Online Editor, Alpinist.com


couple Q's for ya Tim.....

Who do you blame for this yanqui?

More specifically, who do you blame the 60 bolts on? And who do you blame the 700 m. of fixed rope on?
Please be specific.

Have you climbed Cerro Torre, the Compressor Route, or any other major peak in Los Glaciers?

Do you live in El Chalten?

just askin.

The group as a whole is responsible ... they should decide among themselves how to make amends to the locals who are outraged. Since the climbers being filmed are the "stars" of the show, it would be big of them to come clean, admit their mistakes and go one step further by actually promoting the excellent standards and ethics that the Argentine locals have generally lived up to.

The first important alpine style ascent in the region was done by an Argentine, who opened up The Supercanaleta in impeccable style more than 45 years ago and since then the Argentine climbers have maintained a very high standard of ethics and environmentalism in the area. It was Rolo who organized the fight to include provincial lands, that were gonna get sold off as political favors to rich buddies of the governor, under the mantle of the National Park. This summer many of the important ascents in the area were done by Argentines, in first rate style. Some of these climbers are friends and I would like to think (more like dream, I suppose) I've had a positive influence in the development of at least one or two. The fact that this "expedition" completely disrespects this high standard of ethics and environmentalism totally pisses me off. I don't see what my particular climbing curriculum has to do with any of that, but if you're really that interested in it, PM me.


(This post was edited by yanqui on Jun 10, 2010, 3:26 AM)


yanqui


Jun 10, 2010, 1:28 AM
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PosiDave wrote:
I blame the guy who put up the first 450 bolts.

Sure 60 more were added and 700 meters of rope. But in all honesty. You were Insulting the climber probably on a contract with Red Bull. Who more than likely did not put the bolts up for the film crew. Also wasn't it said the film crew was hired by Red Bull? Not already part of the Red Bull company?

If so, more than likely Red Bull or the Climbers can not legally make the film crew remove the rope. So blame the film crew. Also there are plenty of other people that bail and leave gear all of the time (in smaller amounts) I do not see you complaining about everyone.

I don't to agree with adding bolts to climbs or leaving gear. In a perfect world we could all free solo are way and leave no trace. however, You are mad they added 60 bolts to a 450 bolt climb? To me it seems like there is a bit of contradiction in your statement.

You also bad mouthed Europe in your sentence structure. Could no South American or North American do such thing and run home?


I probably will not bother checking this thread again. But I am just pointing out that while I agree with you. Your statements give a meathead outlook on the whole thing.

I'm glad to see you can appreciate the meathead outlook. I think it's important to try and see things from all sides. If you want to see in more detail what we (apparently) agree on, please read the previous post.

Cheers
Tim


(This post was edited by yanqui on Jun 10, 2010, 1:30 AM)


Alpine07


Jun 10, 2010, 3:01 AM
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chadnsc wrote:
Alpine07 wrote:
chadnsc wrote:
Alpine07 wrote:
chadnsc wrote:
Alpine07 wrote:
Chad has never really been "on top of things." He's like that guy that jumps into a conversation half way through. hahaha

You mean like what you just did here in this thread?

I thank you for proving my point.

You had a point?

Oh wow, are you still talking?

Why? You feeling lonely?

Haha! You clearly don't understand.


i_h8_choss


Jun 10, 2010, 8:15 AM
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In reply to:
I blame the guy who put up the first 450 bolts.

Sure 60 more were added and 700 meters of rope. But in all honesty. You were Insulting the climber probably on a contract with Red Bull.

Me? I never insulted the climber.

In reply to:
Who more than likely did not put the bolts up for the film crew. Also wasn't it said the film crew was hired by Red Bull? Not already part of the Red Bull company?

If so, more than likely Red Bull or the Climbers can not legally make the film crew remove the rope. So blame the film crew. Also there are plenty of other people that bail and leave gear all of the time (in smaller amounts) I do not see you complaining about everyone.

I don't to agree with adding bolts to climbs or leaving gear. In a perfect world we could all free solo are way and leave no trace. however, You are mad they added 60 bolts to a 450 bolt climb? To me it seems like there is a bit of contradiction in your statement.

dude I am far from mad. Are you sure you replied to the right person here?

In reply to:
You also bad mouthed Europe in your sentence structure. Could no South American or North American do such thing and run home?

Me? Again....are you replying to me or someone else. Did you read the entire thread?


In reply to:
I probably will not bother checking this thread again. But I am just pointing out that while I agree with you. Your statements give a meathead outlook on the whole thing.

Oh you better come back, cause you need to clear some stuff up.


cantbuymefriends


Jun 10, 2010, 9:09 AM
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Re: What a mess [In reply to]
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From the article in Alpinist:
In reply to:
In an interview with Redbull.com on November 17, 2009—the day before he departed for Argentina—Lama compared the ethics of today with Maestri's: "Cesare Maestri, who made the first ascent in 1970, left an entire highway of bolts and pitons in the mountain's south-east face, which has nothing to do with today's climbing ethics... Back in the days of old school mountaineering only conquering the peak was important—not so much how this goal was reached." Lama added that he planned to make the first free ascent of the Compressor Route and return home without leaving any noticeable mark on the iconic peak. He stated that it was "not in our interest to leave any traces."
And today only the recording of the ascent is important - not how it is done...

Let's just say that he failed on all remarks.


chadnsc


Jun 10, 2010, 12:30 PM
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Re: [Alpine07] What a mess [In reply to]
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Alpine07 wrote:
chadnsc wrote:
Alpine07 wrote:
chadnsc wrote:
Alpine07 wrote:
chadnsc wrote:
Alpine07 wrote:
Chad has never really been "on top of things." He's like that guy that jumps into a conversation half way through. hahaha

You mean like what you just did here in this thread?

I thank you for proving my point.

You had a point?

Oh wow, are you still talking?

Why? You feeling lonely?

Haha! You clearly don't understand.

Oh I understand there big boy, you're looking to get some attention.

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