I was kinda in the same boat. There weren't really any sport climbs where I started climbing and it took me a couple of years to pick up the rack and take the sharp end.

When I finally started climbing at a place with any amount of sport routes I hung up the 5.10. I was also really scare of falling.

I'm still scared of falling a lot of the time, I've worked at getting better at this, but I've also had some experiances that have really set me back. Leading in the gym is a great way to keep my lead head in check through the winter, I just wish I could have started off on the right foot earlier in my climbing career leading easieir overhanging routes in the gym.

Well since no one else is going to say it, I will.

It's to reduce the amount of time, by about 75% I'd say, that the weaklings spend hangdogging the enjoyable leads. A practice for which I am very thankful.

the stories I’m getting is the lead test must be taken on a 5.9 or harder and a couple of gyms said 5.10 or harder. This is more of what I feel is elitist.

That in no way answers my question but it does help prove my point.

i dont think its necessarily that it must be on a .9 or a .10 so much as thats just the easiest the lead routes get in that particular gym.

Am I the only person who thinks that anything under 5.9 is a waste of bolts?

In these parts, there are no bolted routes in the wild under 5.8 so why would the gym put up a 5.6?!

Am I the only person who thinks that anything under 5.9 is a waste of bolts?

In these parts, there are no bolted routes in the wild under 5.8 so why would the gym put up a 5.6?!

Ontario is coming out of the stone age in terms of how routes are bolted, and really not a good bar to measure from.

All the same change is a coming because of some motivated and unselfish (well, mildly selfish, they do love putting up new routes) individuals. There are areas up North where easier bolted routes have gone up (like Metcalfe) and more are on the way.

I'm not sure how I feel about bolting easier grades and making them so accessible to the masses...

There will be blood.

I certainly understand why 5.9 is the bar. It's been stated upthread more than once. It's a cost/benefit thing. It doesn't make sense to owners of a gym to set lead routes under 5.9. Simple.

That being said. Gyms suck anyways. Borrow a trad rack and go lead 5.2 outside. Trust me - you'll have a much more memorable and enjoyable time than in the gym!

Am I the only person who thinks that anything under 5.9 is a waste of bolts?

In these parts, there are no bolted routes in the wild under 5.8 so why would the gym put up a 5.6?!

I certainly understand why 5.9 is the bar. It's been stated upthread more than once. It's a cost/benefit thing. It doesn't make sense to owners of a gym to set lead routes under 5.9. Simple.

That being said. Gyms suck anyways. Borrow a trad rack and go lead 5.2 outside. Trust me - you'll have a much more memorable and enjoyable time than in the gym!

It's amazing to me that after so many years playing around on this site, I'm still surprised by its users' overwhelming inability to view an issue from any perspective other than their own.

I would add a reason or two to those previously mentioned:
1) It is dangerous to have bolts and draws on walls that begginers and especially KIDS will be climbing. They have a tendency to get their fingers in bolt hangers even with jugs in the vicinity. That is a potential HUGE problem. I once saw a picture of a guys hand that had grabbed a QD on his way down. The nose got caught between his fingers and ripped his hand open so the division between pointer and middle finger extended almost half way down his palm.
2) It is dangerous to certify people to lead on a 5.4 and let them go. Although most people are smart, reasonable, and have self preservation in mind there are people who think things like "I can climb 10c why can't I lead it?" (I've heard this said) If this person passed a lead test on a 5.6 and hops on a 10d and decks on the second clip you have a potential lawsuit on your hands.

I think it is great that you are trying out a different model and it seems to work for you. I am glad that the gym I work for and climb in has the rules that it does because I think it keeps the gym here for all of us by avoiding litigation or excessive insurance rates.

I am surprised/not surprised that your insurance company agreed to it. If they knew more about climbing I imagine your rates would go up because you aren't at "industry standard."

To give you another model to think about...
My gym lets people test on anything 5.8 or harder and they choose the climb. As a tester I give NO room for error on a short or easy climb. If all I have to test you on is four right handed clips facing the same direction from hands free stances and your clips aren't smooth I won't pass you because it is all I have to test you on. The rest could be done by a kid at a birthday party. The other gyms in the area make you test on 10b and tghey choose the climb. It did seem excessive to me when I tested there and I agree that they are pushing potential leaders out. However, it is a model that seems to work for them because they are just as packed as we are.

I am surprised/not surprised that your insurance company agreed to it. If they knew more about climbing I imagine your rates would go up because you aren't at "industry standard.".

fwiw, climbing gyms effectively write their own insurance policies, there is no industry standard for things like belay tests or even belay devices in gyms.

That is really interesting. Thanks for the info. When I say industry standard I mean that a lawyer doing a little research would probably find that the majority of gyms have a different policy.