granite_grrl wrote:

Hey Lena, even though you say you suck, you are right where you should be right now.

The good news is that with hangboarding you improve QUICKLY. Rest for two days, and do one more session just the same as the one that trashed you, and then for the next one (your 3rd workout?) add 5 lbs; and you should reach failure at the same time you did with no weight the previous week.

The bad news is that, if you're doing it right, your forearms should be trashed right now, and it pretty much limits all other climbing you will be doing. I need at least 72 hrs of recovery after a hangboard sesh, and the only other climbing I can do in the interim is REALLY easy ARCing (which can still be productive, though, just to keep your enduro up).

Me and dribble usually keep the hangboard a bit lower, like, just above head height; you shouldn't have to jump for it, since this will put unnecessary strain on your arms at the beginning of each rep. Rather than a stool, I would use pillows and a stacked up boulder pad to gain height, though. The other plus of having a lower hangboard is that you can focus on static form of keeping your feet off the ground (lifting your knees or thighs), and this actually engages the core almost enough to count as a core workout. At the end of a good sesh, my core.getcore() is so trashed that I usually can't do leglifts.

For breathing, I've found that the reps are short enough that if you just take a deep breath during your rests, that's good. For skin, use tape, possibly with some spray adhesive to keep it on, but the best thing I found for skin is to move to small holds as quickly as you can. Once you're not stressing that fold of skin under the first knuckle, the pain and gobies become less prevalent.

For the elbows, that may be your biggest challenge (and campusing is even tougher on them). Definitely keep the same angle of elbows throughout your workout; Manderson made the good point that as your elbow angle changes, you are subtlely changing the strain on your forearms, and thus not working them to true failure. For my elbow pain, I also begin each workout with two Ibuprofen and one Tylenol.

Finally, this is a super key time to soak your arms in ice water at the end of your workout; 10 minutes apiece. Just sit back, soak 'em, and make your kids get you dessert!

jakedatc wrote:

jakedatc wrote:

drivel wrote:

Dammit Doc why didn't you train a replacement Gunks partner before you left.. 50F mon and tues this week and fuck if i'll find a gym rat who will go.

drivel wrote:

Dammit Doc why didn't you train a replacement Gunks partner before you left.. 50F mon and tues this week and fuck if i'll find a gym rat who will go.

jakedatc wrote:

just show up in the parking lot with a rope and gears. has always worked for me.

camhead wrote:

on a monday in the winter at the gunks? thats a slight risk for 3.5 hr each way

camhead wrote:

on a monday in the winter at the gunks? thats a slight risk for 3.5 hr each way

granite_grrl wrote:

Hey Lena, even though you say you suck, you are right where you should be right now.

The good news is that with hangboarding you improve QUICKLY. Rest for two days, and do one more session just the same as the one that trashed you, and then for the next one (your 3rd workout?) add 5 lbs; and you should reach failure at the same time you did with no weight the previous week.

The bad news is that, if you're doing it right, your forearms should be trashed right now, and it pretty much limits all other climbing you will be doing. I need at least 72 hrs of recovery after a hangboard sesh, and the only other climbing I can do in the interim is REALLY easy ARCing (which can still be productive, though, just to keep your enduro up).

Me and dribble usually keep the hangboard a bit lower, like, just above head height; you shouldn't have to jump for it, since this will put unnecessary strain on your arms at the beginning of each rep. Rather than a stool, I would use pillows and a stacked up boulder pad to gain height, though. The other plus of having a lower hangboard is that you can focus on static form of keeping your feet off the ground (lifting your knees or thighs), and this actually engages the core almost enough to count as a core workout. At the end of a good sesh, my core.getcore() is so trashed that I usually can't do leglifts.

For breathing, I've found that the reps are short enough that if you just take a deep breath during your rests, that's good. For skin, use tape, possibly with some spray adhesive to keep it on, but the best thing I found for skin is to move to small holds as quickly as you can. Once you're not stressing that fold of skin under the first knuckle, the pain and gobies become less prevalent.

For the elbows, that may be your biggest challenge (and campusing is even tougher on them). Definitely keep the same angle of elbows throughout your workout; Manderson made the good point that as your elbow angle changes, you are subtlely changing the strain on your forearms, and thus not working them to true failure. For my elbow pain, I also begin each workout with two Ibuprofen and one Tylenol.

Finally, this is a super key time to soak your arms in ice water at the end of your workout; 10 minutes apiece. Just sit back, soak 'em, and make your kids get you dessert!

caughtinside wrote:

Sounds like we're in the same boat. My partner for the Glass just bailed. Don't think I'm going to drive 7 hrs down by myself to wrangle partners. Fuck.

camhead wrote:

you just went from two partners to zero partners in like 45 minutes!