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ricardol
Jan 28, 2003, 11:21 PM
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Just wanted to get a feeling for what kind of equipment everyone has lost to the rock.. (and probably someone else got out later!) ..
I fixed my first piece last weekend, left behind a #12 BD stopper at pinnacles..
-- ricardo
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vegastradguy
Jan 28, 2003, 11:32 PM
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We just lost our first piece in Red Rocks on Sunday. a #8 BD Stopper.*sigh* The lead party (of 3 parties of 2) couldnt get it out, neither could the middle party, and then the anchor party (myself and my second) failed as well. 5 people tried, 5 people failed! can you believe that? PTPP would definitely have something to say on that one...
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punk
Jan 28, 2003, 11:38 PM
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Personally I am a Grinch when come to gear I will fight the piece till I get it out however I did leave 3 pieces (nuts and one biner) in different occasion which I replaced and my followers had left 5 pieces (nuts)all together in my climbing experience which they replaced all
But look at this as u win some u lose very little b/c I have about 60 pieces of booty gear
[ This Message was edited by: punk on 2003-01-28 19:56 ]
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phugganut
Jan 29, 2003, 12:00 AM
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I don't trust booty gear. I only once used some (2 seemingly new rap-rings found on top of 4-peaks mtn in a ziploc bag) and, although I used both at once, I STILL worried the whole way down.
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totigers
Jan 29, 2003, 12:12 AM
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I asked a family member to pick up the gear while I get the rope and we packed out of JT. When I got home and checked all my gear, I found that I had left 2 #5 Metolious cams in Indian Cove. I was so pissed, since then, I have not taken that person again climbing. At that time, I was scrounging for pennies just to buy the gear I was using. I still haven't replaced them but I also have not needed them as of yet. But I soon will pick up some more.
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grigriese
Jan 29, 2003, 12:12 AM
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you need to get one of those little cleaning hammers - it's like a nut cleaning tool but it has a small hammer on it. My boyfriend and I have scored lots and lots of booty with this little tool. They are not as light as a regular nut cleaning tool but if a nut gets weighted or set a little more than ya want this hammer will most likely clean it. I use it with a regular nut tool usually
[ This Message was edited by: grigriese on 2003-01-28 16:13 ]
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iamthewallress
Jan 29, 2003, 12:13 AM
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2 new ropes tied together.
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stevematthys
Jan 29, 2003, 2:54 AM
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2 ropes? hahahaha
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t-dog
Deleted
Jan 29, 2003, 3:19 AM
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2 #5 metolius cams??????
2 new ropes?????
I understand the first one since he didn't know, but the ropes, how could you do such a thing?????
Personnaly I'm still at I haven't left anything yet but have picked up a #1 and a #.75 BD cam some other people had left since they couldn't get them out.
Booty gear motivates me to go climb more!!!!
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bandycoot
Jan 29, 2003, 4:11 AM
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my friend fixed a #1 camalot once. She didn't know how to clean and wiggled it to get it out...GOODBYE!!! Luckily it wasn't mine, we were a 3 person team and it was the other guys.
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brutusofwyde
Jan 29, 2003, 7:04 PM
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Brand new 4.5 camalot on the third pitch of YPB.
That being said, I've received 100x that in booty over the years.
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kman
Jan 30, 2003, 1:10 AM
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2 ropes....d'oh sucks to be you.
I have left behind a #8 Metolious nut.
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rockmx
Jan 30, 2003, 1:33 AM
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# 2 Metolius Power cam
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vram1974
Jan 30, 2003, 7:14 PM
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I had to leave two Wild Country Forged Friends in the Split Pillar in Squamish this September. Both had walked in, and were completely overexpanded. I would have fought with them for a bit, but I was somewhat relieved to lose them, actually... Not to start an argument with the hardcore lovers of rigid stem Friends, but I never liked those cams. Their short slings had a nasty tendancy to walk, something I have never had a problem with using Metolius or Black Diamond or DMM. So I replaced them with some Rock Empire cams... testing still pending.
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adirondakclimber
Jan 30, 2003, 7:40 PM
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Havn't lost any on the rock, but i rendered a nut useless trying to get it out, the wire frayed. We also left behind two micro nuts and a biner once somewhere.
But i have picked some really hard ones out that i find stuck, I'm with T-dog, I usually go to the popular places just to find some stuck gear b/c i'm poor.
[ This Message was edited by: adirondakclimber on 2003-01-30 11:42 ]
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davidji
Jan 30, 2003, 7:44 PM
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Interesting about leaving the rigid Friends, Vram. Most of the fixed cams I see are rigid-stem, and most rigid-stem Friends I see climbing are fixed (rather than being carried or used). I assumed it was because they walk more than flexible cams, but maybe, as you said, climbers are glad to be rid of them.
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brianinslc
Jan 30, 2003, 7:59 PM
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A Moss Stardome III in a bad snowstorm...
Brian in SLC
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ebrmusic
Feb 8, 2003, 3:23 PM
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I lost a #1 BD Cam to T-Wall last weekend. It was my first lost piece. Cleaners need not wiggle.
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coclimber26
Feb 8, 2003, 4:09 PM
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Left...#7 and #3 stopper on a rescue.
Found...1.5 and 2" cams and a "8stopper at an emergency rap
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wlderdude
Feb 8, 2003, 5:05 PM
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2 BD Hexes on seperate ocassions. One of them was #4, my favorite piece on my rack.
Okay, so they were my brother's hexes. I had to pay him for the #4. The day I fell on the #5 hex and got it stuck, he droped a big rock on my rope and ruined it.
Is there anywhere I can buy unslung BD hexes for a decent price?
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dig_scott
Mar 3, 2003, 8:19 PM
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ouch on the Moss Stardome III. im sure there isnt a good story that goes along with that one.
lost a 10 BD stopper rapping into a cave. all the weight of the raps were on it and it got stuck.
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stewbabby
Mar 3, 2003, 8:39 PM
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I have only lost one cam at sunset park in TN. And then... I find this picture of tommy getting it out the day after I lost it.
http://www.rockclimbing.com/photos.php?Action=ListPhoto&PhotoID=6290
stewart
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sparky
Mar 4, 2003, 2:31 AM
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Big #4 DMM cam left somewhere in the vacinity of the Bastille in Eldorado, I'm still pissed because I only had the cam for 3 weeks!
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melekzek
Mar 4, 2003, 3:59 AM
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- Wall climb, 7th rope length, finger injury from fallen stones, retreat, stuck rope, cut and continue
- Hard winter ascent, 2 axe belay get stuck after rappel with 2 ropes, cut and continue...
- A whole set of wildcountry stoppers are forgotten when trying to gather a mess of equipment when its getting dark... that still hurts..... how did I do that...
- A whole set of hexentrics.... I thought I lost them for at least 2 years, and after that some irrisponsible guy brought it back.... "sorry, I accidentally get them into my stuff"
- some stoppers stuck over here, and there, but I got some back from some other places anyhow ;-)
that is a lame record I guess
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apollodorus
Mar 4, 2003, 4:11 AM
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I placed a #4 forged Friend behind the Poison Pill block on Scorched Earth, and after one of our bags was hauled, it closed up on it. Or maybe the heating of the outer surface the next day caused the 2-foot wide flake to bend. The crack closed up about 1/2". Anyway, it was solidly fixed.
And to compound things, a whole bag of giant cams fell a short time later. Amazingly, it caught in a tree after 800+ feet of free fall. A #16 plywood cam was broken, but most of the others were completely undamaged except for tweaked trigger wires, etc.
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superbum
Mar 6, 2003, 1:16 AM
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no gear left behind as of yet...a bunch of skin and sweat though!
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highcamp
Mar 9, 2003, 1:50 AM
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#4 Camalot in the valley. I slipped right while placing it and hence it didn't quite go where I intended it to. I spent 2+ hrs trying to get it out with zero luck.
D'oh!
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brutusofwyde
Mar 9, 2003, 8:10 AM
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In reply to: #4 Camalot in the valley. I slipped right while placing it and hence it didn't quite go where I intended it to. I spent 2+ hrs trying to get it out with zero luck. D'oh!
What route??
(don't shout it out, send me a private message)
:twisted:
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gyngve
Mar 9, 2003, 8:29 AM
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We lost a picket somewhere in the Pickets.
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apollodorus
Mar 9, 2003, 8:41 AM
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No fair, Brutus! We all get the same, lotteryesque shot at finding and bootying it!
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highcamp
Mar 9, 2003, 12:27 PM
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Dear Sir “of Wyde”,
We regret to inform you that your bride-to-be, the aptly named “#4-of-Wide,” has been taken hostage and there is, at present, no trace of her. We have issued an ALL POINTS BULLETIN across the greater Sierra range for citizens to be on the lookout for her – she was last seen wearing a rather scratched up anodized purple dress. We assure you, if she is found, you will be the second person we call.
Sincerely,
your friends at the FBI
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freudian
Mar 9, 2003, 2:58 PM
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I haven't 'fixed' any gear yet, however, I have had quite some battles with a #6 OP NUT and a #13 OP Nut (this one was actaully completely loose and free, but it was trapped in the rock somehow. The leader eventually came down with his aid hammer and got it out.).
As far as LOST gear... I suppose my Petzl 'OK' Oval locking biner is now 'fixed' and being used as a redundant backup for the existing biner as a top-rope anchor at my local college climbimg gym. 4 or 5 ppl have tried to get it unlocked, to no avil. Also, After replacing that Oval biner, I then proceeded to misplace another OK Oval at that gym. I dunno where that's gotten off to, but im sure its made a new home in someone's pack. I haven't managed to loose anything else.
... Though a Squirell tried to gnaw through my MEC Rope-Pack, then gave up and learned how to use the zipper... but broke it. It was the only zipperd part of the whole bag (big enough to put some snacks in). I had some peanuts in there and the squirells wanted htem bad and they gottem.
Freud
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happymondays
Mar 9, 2003, 4:50 PM
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Dudes,
#2 Tricam, Pitch 1 Snake Dike, Yosemite. If you've been on
this, you know that crack drops down forever - and that is
where my sweet tricam resides (unless a gearmonkey got it).
Side discussion - do you all (like me) find this phenomenon
more embarassing than just financially troubling. Frankly,
as a trad climber, it drives me crazy to leave gear in as a
matter of principle more than the $15 I'm out for losing a tricam.
Thoughts?
Happymondays
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freudian
Mar 10, 2003, 3:12 AM
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Happymondays:
Leaving a peice of gear that's less than 30$ CDN (15 USD) .... its the principle. I would hate to leave gear in. If it was over that.... Like a cam (80$ CDN/45 USD) its almost purely money. For me, 80$ is a days pay, before the 25% income tax comes out.
Anyhow... i don't leave gear if it can be helped.
Andrew
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onamission116
Mar 10, 2003, 5:33 PM
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Two mid sized nuts and a .75 tricam (after I fell on it). Learned the hard way not to place in crystals
:roll:
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ajoys
Mar 10, 2003, 10:29 PM
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We had a flex friend walk in and get stuck on the Bong (JT) yesterday. My friend fought it for about a half hour and finally got it out.
On a side note, the weather was perfect, crowds where down and we had a great day of climbing.
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yeti
Mar 10, 2003, 10:53 PM
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This post reminds me of a story I read.
A few years ago, a swiss party was on the ultra-classic west face of Le Dru, in the French Alps. The climbers were aware of two fixed cams that were permanently stuck in a crack on the route. When they got to them, the first cam was a cinch to recover, and the second one was barely holding in, basically dangling there. They got kinda spooked and actually called for a helicopter lift off the route. A few hours later, a 100 meter section of the face peeled off and came crashing down the route. The cracks had started expanding a few hours earlier...
Talk about a good day: retreive 2 cams, save your life too!
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blindslap
Mar 11, 2003, 12:00 AM
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Speaking of lost gear, did anyone in SLC city find my#8 BD stopper on "the Great Chockstone"
just curious
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texplorer
Mar 11, 2003, 6:43 AM
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I lost two nuts that I had previously bootied cause my stupid _ss partner was too stupid to retrieve them out of the sandstone on spaceshot. The next day I went back and they had already vanished.
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ajoys
Mar 11, 2003, 8:04 AM
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Kind of a gear bootie story.
I was at Big Rock (California), which by the way, every time I go climbing there I have seen the most interesting, funniest and also dangerous things go on.
Any way, this guy leads up African Flake and his second then climbs up and unclips the rope from the draws but leaves ALL the quickdraws on the bolts.
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